Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ Review: It's a Sophisticated Beast

[@BasementBerean]

2021 in 1996: I buy a 1996 ZJ Grand Cherokee and hope to drive it for ten years. In 2021 I'll be driving a flying car. 2021 in 2021: I still own this Jeep and I'm watching a review using a technology I wouldn't have imagined.

[@thecokeman7037]

I have a 1998 zj 5.9 limited supper fun car fun as hell offroad. Fastest suv in the world in 1998 baby!!

[@Charusel]

I originally thought I'd like the XJ more for looks but like you said, the ZJ grew on me during my tenure of ownership. Kinda regret letting it go, and might get my hands on another before it becomes another victim of collector taxes. Thanks for posting the review!!!

[@Charusel]

So fast forward a year after this comment, I was able to revive my ZJ and have begun my journey on restoring it.

[@jipilg7209]

I got a 95 4.0 zj with 90 k only on the clock ! Brand New baby. Jeep is forever ;)

[@ethanpierce910]

I got a lifted 1995 zj 5.2 v8 and I love it, absolute beast

[@Christopher-zv6uh]

What lift kit you use?

[@ethanpierce910]

@@Christopher-zv6uh I don’t have it anymore but it was just a simple rough country 3.5 or 4 inch lift I can’t remember for sure

[@carlosbarraza8026]

How is the 5.2L V8?

[@kainhall]

keeping the stock tires (at at the largest....235-75R15s in place of the stock 215-75R15s) will keep your ball joints, tie rods, track bar, and transmission happy . the biggest killer of jeep transmissions is BIG and HEAVY tires read that again...... . the trans is programmed to give enough pressure to hold the clutches.... yet still give soft shifts to not scare grandma but when you put 44 inch tires on it that are 200 pounds.... VS the stock 30 pounds now the line pressure isnt high enough..... the clutches slip . even if its only 2RPM of slip...that you will NEVER notice....ANY amount of slip is VERY BAD!!! the computer might not set a check engine code also....AKA "transmission component slipping"!!! . . however, the nice thing about these style trans is..... you can add a resistor to a wire.... and this ups the line pressure.... leading to firmer shifts (and can also increase the life of the trans.... stock tires or not) their are a few "tutorials" here on youtube on how to do this.... and what resistor value to use . using different value resistors.... you can "fine tune" the trans to shift like you want just a little bit to help with life with stock tires . or a LOT.... to make it bang gears like a 110% "built" race tranny . and then, if your cleaver.... make the resistor "quick disconnect" with a few spade terminals so you can up the line pressure when off-roading . then take 10 seconds... remove the resistor.... connect the wire back up like stock..... and have a stock shifting trans for the drive home..... nice and smooth!! . . . . also.... people NEVER change their trans filter and fluid..... till its too late . the fluid gets old..... cant take the heat.... cant clean the valves.... gets too thin to hold the clutches from slipping so you get a bunch of shifting issues.... or it takes 5 seconds to shift from N to R..... or it starts slipping . and people panic.... and try to change the filter and fluid (again, after its ALREADY TOO LATE) . . this causes the trans to shift/slip even worse..... because the new fluid.... full of new detergent.... has pushed the debris deeper into the trans . . . so thats where this MYTH of "never change your fluid.... the old fluid is thicker, and will prevent the slip" . WRONG WRONG WRONG the old fluid is actually THINNER!!! . changing it every 60,000 to 80,000 miles (60 if you off road, tow, or drive in a city a lot.... 80k for 95% highway cruising) will prevent anything wearing out it allows the trans fluid to clean the trans with the detergents..... along with all the other additives being full strength again . the only difference between motor oil and trans fluid is..... trans fluid has WAY WAY more detergents in it . next time you get your hands dirty..... wash them with trans fluid then use a bit of soap to get the trans oil off your hands . that trans fluid will clean ALL the dirt from your hands..... better than any "go-joe" or "fast orange" ever will . . . . . . TLDR keep it stock.... stock power.... stock tires change your damn trans fluid and filter every 80,000 miles do the resistor mod if you wish (but its not needed if you do the above 2) . and that trans will last 400,000 miles no issues

[@kzoomin]

Does regearing help with the transmission slipping?

[@kainhall]

@@kzoomin sure... but then your top speed is like 95mph lol . The best option is to beef up the trans AND re-gear

[@michaelangelos5117]

I have the 97 5.2 4x4. Love it

[@jamalwalker2104]

Nice ZJ. I have a green Limited 1997.

[@kainhall]

13:35 keep the throttle applied when "manually" shifting an auto letting off reduces line pressure.....and it cant react quickly enough when you re-apply the gas after shifting . shift ~400 rpm early.... because the auto has to think for a second..... and dont let up off the gas . backing off a LITTLE bit is ok (or if you are going to loose control / hit a tree) but dont make it a habit.... it can and WILL damage the trans over time

[@Pitstopcomponents]

OOOh nice to hear that! Maybe you can answer another similar question, when trying to accelerate fast: Instead of Kickdown, putting it from Overdrive into the 2 Position, do i have to put throttle before manual downshift or let it downshift first? I'm worried about moneyshifting it or at least have the transmission be sped up fast...

[@mericaman9660]

I got a golden 1995 limited

[@Lollygagger-k4p]

I own one, and I can say that it is NOT an "exceptional off-roader" . It is adequate for non -technical terrain, but nothing spectacular. It is extremely good on snowy roads, unpaved, rutted forest tracks. But the duty rating of the axles and transfer case are moderate at best. You can abuse anything and call it exceptional - until it breaks down. The ZJ is basically a YJ/TJ with an SUV unibody. It shares the TJ/YJ 4x4 system and has a solid axle in front. It has potential, but it is not rally ready. At a minimum, it needs a 3" lift and taller tires that are not heavy. That means narrow tires in the 9.50" or 10" range. If you go with larger tires than that, the axles or transfer case will wear early if used for the top 20% of obstacles. They are NOT inexpensive to repair anymore. Those days are gone.

[@marciofilho3222]

Great review. I live in Malmö and I'm looking to buy a pretty neat 5.2. Coming from an Audi A4 B7 quattro, it's just a bit of a chock when it comes to the fuel consumption! What are you getting in terms of MPG from this 5.2? Thanks

[@jamalwalker2104]

Nooo, not a car... it’s a Jeep. 😄

[@kainhall]

17:48 why blur the license plate..... when a few seconds ago.... your rear plate was visible??

[@afberglund2764]

Behövs racing kat för ljudet?

[@Kim_Alexander]

Dem låter bra rätt bra bara genom att ta bort mufflern. Jag köpte en ganska standard race cat från j-spec.se oh satte på. Minns jag inte fel så har ZJ 2 st catar direkt efter headern också dessa har jag inte rört utan bara den stora under bilen.

[@mirorados7208]

XJ 4.0 1996 or ZJ 4.0 1995. Wich one is better for like going mudding, standard offroading, pulling and other things, like comfort, mpg, relability, after market support. Wich one can keep up with terrano II 2.7td and pajero 3.5 v6.

[@Pitstopcomponents]

Heyho, late answer but better late than never: If you have only the 4.0 Option get an XJ, the 4.0 is underpowered for the heavy ZJ...towing and offroading, XJ has better transmission and less weight... old XJ have the AW-4 trans which is much more reliable than the RE42 or RH46 the ZJ's have. MPG and reliability all comes togheter with load and weight... so XJ better as well... ZJ is comfort but weight... XJ is barebone what you need and therefore technicaly better in any way....except comfort...

[@kainhall]

4.0 FTW . more MPG WAY easier to work on (spark plug job takes 10 mins..... v8 takes hours due to WAY less room) and while the 5.2 is just a 318 and the 5.9 is just a 360..... and they were damn good back in the 60s and 70s their is more parts . plus.... ALL 4.0s were made in canada.... with a brand new factory with high tech stuff (for the time) it had the LOWEST defect rate of ALL car factories.... in canada, usa, and mexico for sure...... if not the whole WORLD! . yes... thats right.... less defects than even a honda or toyota motor built in japan!! . . the v8 engines were made in the normal Chrysler factories..... and ya either got a good motor (Wednesday built) or you got a POS that eats a cam lobe and windows the block before 100,000 miles (monday and friday built) . and that was true back in the 60s also...... MOPAR is NOTORIOUS for poor quality control when casting cylinder heads . one 426 hemi would dominate everything on the street..... a 2nd 426 hemi would get beat by a 305 GM motor..... due to the head castings having "flashing" from the molds in the ports.... misaligned ports.... thin combustion chambers that crack..... ETC (also called "core shift") . . . . AMC designed the casting method and molds for the 4.0.... and MOPAR followed their instructions even when they took over..... and AMC built QUALITY engines !!!! every single AMC engine is regarded as being well made, tough, and made consistent power . they were just well thought out in design AND manufacture (and again, all 4.0s were made in a brand new Canadian factory, with TOP NOTCH tooling) . AMC didnt have the money to be replacing engines under warranty so they did it right the first time . and extra hour checking bearing clearances and fine tuning the casting molds = more worker pay..... but DRASTICALLY less returns which is cheaper in the long run . . . . TLDR as a mechanic..... the 4.0 is so so so much easier to work on . even oil changes.... the oil filter can be reached from the top wrenches have 2 foot on each side of the motor to hit the floor...... no lost 10mms when working on a 4.0 but that v8 will eat 10mms for breakfast, lunch and dinner.... and you will NEVER find them . the 4.0 has a WAY lower defect rate . the 4.0 gets better MPG . and come on.... its an inline 6... that doesnt even have crossflow clyinder heads (aka, intake and exhaust is on the same side of the head) its one step above a flat head (like a lawn mower engine) its amazing the 4.0 lasted as long as it did.... . and it could of made WAY more power and got WAY better MPG if they designed a cross flow head for it but MOPAR wanted to put the REALLY weak (both in power and reliability) 3.8 from their minivans in jeeps . and today.... its the 3.6 penta-star known by mechanics as the penta-junk or penta-shit . a timing chain breaking.... oil filter housing cracking.... low power, fuel guzzling....expensive to repair POS a simple job like an alternator takes FOREVER on a 3.6..... because they CRAM it into the smallest places . like... a modern engine with 0.4 liters less displacement gets WORSE miles to the gallon than a non-cross flow inline 6 HOW!!!??????!?!!?!? . . . mopar should of just used the Buick 3.8...... instead of trying to copy it... and making their own 3.8 mopar tried to say "you heard of how good the 3,8 is??.... thats totally not a buick motor... thats ours...buick doesnt even have a 3.8!!!!" . a ZJ with a 3.8 supercharged buick motor..... now that would be interesting (and haul ass!!!! yet get 32 mpg) . . . . . and the BBBUUUUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ when cruising....... and the RASPY note when floored at ~4500 RPM will grow on you over time its never going to sound as mean as a v8..... sure . but it sure scares the hell out of people when ya pass them at WIDE OPEN i think they think a 2 ton bee is trying to sting them!!! . no one looks up from their phone when they hear a V8 these days.... too common but when they hear ..... bbbuuuzzzzzzzz *downshift* RASPY BBBUUUUUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZTTT they instantly look up from their tinder!!!

[@HugeCockAndBalls]

biggest cope post I have ever read

[@kainhall]

@@HugeCockAndBalls k

[@jbhk7977]

Dana 30 in the front

[@valentinfarinadellamea6363]

Nice Jeep dude i have an 5.9 limited

[@valentinfarinadellamea6363]

@Benjamin Bolinsky i'm not pretty sure but i know that they're not very common to see

[@arischreiber2213]

@Benjamin Bolinsky Actually just 14,286. We have one too that was a first car for my son three years ago. Found a mint one that was all original. Even had window sticker, brochures, and VHS marketing tape unopened from 1998. He'll keep it forever he said. We even have a pristine 1993 Limited V8 with just 165k. Will maybe make a video when weather gets nicer.

[@arischreiber2213]

Great to hear another Niner lives. Got a beautiful one in the family still. Gets more comments than most new vehicles. My teen son daily drives her. Still the coolest SUV on the road. Hope you enjoy it too.

[@seanison4827]

@@arischreiber2213 I just bought one for really cheap that only has 60,000 miles on it and it is almost mint condition

[@theforzaboi3776]

The 5.9 is my dream car. Like honestly I wouldn’t want any other car if I can get a 5.9. Hopefully I can buy one by the time I have my license

[@goodlife3894]

got a 97zj 4.0 with 250k on the clock.... those 4.0 run forever

[@Kim_Alexander]

yes they are quite awesome, I think when I buy my next jeep it will be with the 4.0. I'm still a sucker for the V8 sound but I kind of get that from my mustang. what rear axle do you get in a 97zj wit the 4.0?

[@Airon0727]

@@Kim_Alexander my 98 came with a Dana 35 open diff

[@v8sekkusu677]

@@Kim_Alexander i got the dana 44 rear wnd in mine

[@kainhall]

another advantage of the 4.0..... the cooling fan is a mechanical unit better MPG.... easier to work on..... more consistent quality control (the 4.0 factory in canada had the lowest defect rate IN THE WORLD!) . and a clutch fan is easy to tell when its broke..... if it spins with no resistance..... its broken just get a new fan clutch . but the electric fans..... is it the ECU? the relays? the fan itself? what about the fuse? is the wire broken anywhere in the 10 yards of wire loom.... which has 90 other wires in it.... and you have to separate it... and look one by one? . . mechanical fan either go WHUURRRRRR or dont go WHUURRRR

[@DeToX666swe]

All 5.2 got the mechanical fan, only the 5.9 had a electric fan. But nonetheless can’t see why that should be that big of a problem. Fairly easy to troubleshoot or redo it yourself.

[@tobbenord7827]

Har du möjligen ett bara tips vart jag kan få tag på reservdelar? Behöver få tag på motorstyrenheten 🤔 till min, men det är inte lätt att hitta någon 😩

[@Kim_Alexander]

Har du kollat rockauto?

[@tobbenord7827]

@@Kim_Alexander tack tack 😎 hitta vad jag leta efter direkt 👍

[@Kim_Alexander]

@@tobbenord7827 gött! Jag den sidan är riktigt bra! Oftast billagre och snabbare leverans med

[@ThomasBromehead]

Hi Kim, are you running it on ethanol?

[@Kim_Alexander]

Hi! No it runs on regular gasoline

[@ThomasBromehead]

@@Kim_Alexander Thanks for the answer!

[@ThomasBromehead]

Look out for mine, will be posting a video of it. Picking it up Saturday on the beautiful island of Corsica, a very rare pale blue with just 145 000km, seats reupholstered, headliner redone, in top notch condition. Will post a video of it ;) It also runs on LPG, I think yours does too no?

[@ThomasBromehead]

Also a 5.2

[@kainhall]

i give my 4.0 nothing but 87 with 10% ethanol . no issues (yet)

[@luckyme5122]

The 4.0 engines last forever

[@Kim_Alexander]

Well if you gave the right year, remember the head with bad quality iron that cracked

[@hunterdavis1663]

Was only one year out of how many ? I've had 2 5.2 liter engines the head cracked on a 93 and a 98 zj I'll take a 4.0 i6 any day over a 5.2 !

[@Kim_Alexander]

@@hunterdavis1663 A v8 sounds better :D I'll take the v8 for the sound and i6 for the easy repairs and reliability..

[@Brent-y6n]

4.0 are all over marketplace not running condition but anything with a 5.2 even back in the 70s still running

[@miaesesawarren9033]

Lopez Kenneth White Jennifer Brown Matthew

[@kainhall]

the 249 sucks.... the fluid clutch will burn out.... and you will have to replace it over and over and over . the best T-case is the 242..... 2wd for fuel economy .....4 part time...4 full time.... AND! a low range part time . . 4 part time.... both axles locked..... so 2 tires will spin out 4 full time ..... axles are on an open diff.... all tires get power... till one tire spins out.....then only 1 axle well get power....and 1 tire will spin (unless you have lockers in the axles, of course) full time is FAR FAR FAR better on ice than part time..... as, again, only one tire will spin.... with 3 still providing grip . then it has a nuetral for towing . and finally a LO part time 4 setting . when you need low range.... you pretty much are just gonna want part time. you are going to want all the traction all the time . . . . but ya.... part time = both axles get power.... all tires get power..... till you loose traction.... then 1 tire on each axle will spin out (2 total.... with open diffs) . full time = both axles get power.... all tires get power...... till you loose traction..... then the axle with the least traction gets power.... and finally the wheel with the least traction on that axle will spin and ONLY that one wheel will "burn out" . which again..... is better when on ice you still have 3 tires giving you directional control . when if you apply too much power on the ice in part time..... tires spin.... and your going to go spinning into the ditch