4 Plumbing Parts/Tools You Should NEVER Use. NO Plumbing Fails

In this plumbing tips and tricks DIY video, we show you some banned parts plumbing fittings that you should never use, and 3 of them are banned by the uniform plumbing code, like the S Trap, the flexible P Trap, and the Saddle Valve. These plumbing DIY tips will help you avoid some expensive plumbing fails due to using these banned parts which violate plumbing codes and building codes. Be sure to view and enjoy our other plumbing DIY videos. And remember with your DIY plumbing, please stop using all those flex pipes banned plumbing pipes, adhere to our plumbing tips, obey plumbing codes, and ditch that flexible pipe once and for all.
⏱ Table of Contents 4 Plumbing Parts/Tools You Should NEVER Use (Click on timestamps to jump to a chapter) ⏱
0:00 Introduction to Plumbing tools you should not use
1:00 Prohibited Plumbing Part #1: S-Trap
4:45 Prohibited Plumbing Part 2: Flexible Form & Fit P-Trap (Accordion P-Trap)
10:45 Banned plumbing part #3: Saddle Valve
17:05 Plumbing Part #4 Avoid using a simple sleeve puller tool
Avoid plumbing fails with our DIY plumbing tips
To avoid any building code violations, don't use any of the 3 prohibited plumbing parts and banned plumbing pipes such as Polybutylene pipes. These banned plumbing fittings PVC parts include flexible PVC pipe, Flexible P Traps, and Snappy Traps. Use our plumbing tips and tricks to avoid plumbing fails. You should also avoid form and fit. so avoid flexible p trap installations, and any type of flexible pipe, or form and fit extension tubes on your next p trap install. Also, be sure to avoid saddle valves. Many DIY plumbing folks and uninformed handyman people like to use the saddle valve because it is cheap and avoids spending money on a plumber. The only problem is you'll have plumbing fails later because of these banned plumbing pipes and saddle valve fixtures, that you'll then be stuck paying thousands in flood and mold damages, plus the cost of paying plumbers that you originally tried to avoid because of your DIY plumbing failure. Believe me, you don't want to ignore our plumbing DIY tips, because you don't want your plumbing mistakes to be revealed on some plumbing fails video on KZbin after you violate the uniform plumbing codes.
There are so many plumbing fails attributed to the 3 uniform plumbing code violations parts we showed you here. So please, stop using those S-Traps, flexible PVC pipes, and Snappy Traps, and flexible p trap installations, and form and fit extension tubes that connect to your bathroom vanity sink drain.
Your homeowner’s insurance company will make you remove Snappy Traps and flexible p traps and other flexible pipes because they violate plumbing codes. We have already been called in to remove these from people who were given ultimatums by their insurer, resulting in us doing a new p trap install with the correct plumbing fittings, and removed their plumbing mistakes. Don't ever allow a flexible p trap installation in your home. Also, the S Trap is banned in probably all 50 states. If you have an old S Trap already installed, I would try to get you plumbing corrected by removing that S trap when you remodel. You don't want these plumbing fail flexible PVC pipes, and building code violations in your home, and setting yourself up for more plumbing fails. please adhere to our plumbing DIY tips. Remember, plumbing codes are there to protect us DIY plumbers from ourselves, so stick with our plumbing tips and tricks.
✅ Useful plumbing tools you SHOULD be using:
🛒 PanaVise 381 Vacuum Base PanaVise: amzn.to/3exQZIC
🛒 Duck Puller Ferrule Ring/Sleeve Puller: amzn.to/2k5hrTY
🛒 Saf-T-Kut EBCRR Brass Compression Ring Remover amzn.to/2Ypt5Mv
🛒 RIDGID One Stop Wrench Kit: amzn.to/2ClCbNa
🛒 Channellock 12-Inch Pliers: amzn.to/2MdcnGR
✅ Our other videos mentioned in this plumbing tools video:
P-Trap Installation Drain Doesn’t Line Up Bathroom Sink Pipe: • P-Trap Installation Dr...
📺 WATCH: Why is my Kitchen Sink P-Trap Leaking at Connection Nut? • Why is my Kitchen Sink...
📺 WATCH: How To Repair/Replace Leaking P-Trap Pipe Under Bathroom Sink: • How To Repair/Replace ...
📺 WATCH: How to Replace A Kitchen Sink Drain Strainer, Repair Leak: • How to Replace A Kitch...
📺 WATCH: How to Install P Trap Under Bathroom Sink, Drain Pipe Off Center: • P-Trap Installation Dr...

[@jeffostroff]

✅ Useful plumbing tools you SHOULD be using: 🛒 PanaVise 381 Vacuum Base PanaVise: amzn.to/3exQZIC 🛒 Duck Puller Ferrule Ring/Sleeve Puller: amzn.to/2k5hrTY 🛒 Saf-T-Kut EBCRR Brass Compression Ring Remover amzn.to/2Ypt5Mv 🛒 RIDGID One Stop Wrench Kit: amzn.to/2ClCbNa 🛒 Channellock 12-Inch Pliers: amzn.to/2MdcnGR

[@stanleywheeler404]

Jeff I just saw your video!! I live in Central Pennsylvania and I just bought an old house that was built in 1901 and this is EXACTLY the type of pipes that are in this house! I just had to call a plumber because after another plumber had installed s new toilet in our 2nd floor bathroom. Well after a week or so I noticed that when my wife did laundry in our 2nd floor laundry room that is also in our 2nd floor bathroom we noticed that methane smell!! So I called another plumber and he said we had a huge clog in our main water pipe. He had to use a very long electric snake to unclog that pipe! Well here he found that the previous owners had used baby wipes and that was what caused the clog to get bigger over time and when we had the other plumber install the new toilet it added to the problem! Thank you for your VIDEOS ! And for those SADDLE VALVES they're what alot of plumbers and handymen in this area use for the water lines to the refrigerators with the water and ice dispensers in it ! I have 1 of those refrigerators with water and ice in the door but I haven't had the water line hooked up yet on my refrigerator but that saddle valve is what a guy at Lowe's said to use on it! So now I know better thank you!! I will definitely be watching your videos from now on! Thank you!!

[@jeffostroff]

@@stanleywheeler404 Glad to make you an informed homeowner. Only know you have open the Pandora xbox where you are living with the horror of knowing you Could have this as well but at least you can warn your friends and family up there too.

[@terryhites1]

No, I did not say ignore the warnings.... I was saying tone down the hype...

[@willschultz5452]

I hate those saddle valves also and they are used constantly!

[@waptek2]

12:00 in electronics the equivalent is ONLY temporary as it WILL fail over time ,,, & that's with audio connectors even

[@johnricci7264]

Very glad to see your comments about saddle valves. I had a bad experience with one of those years ago. When they get old and the rubber goes, they ALL eventually leak. Another problem you can have is if you put one on a pipe upside down (with the needle piercing the bottom of the pipe. If there is any sediment in the pipe, and there usually is, the sediment clogs the needle. I just rebuilt a house that had three saddles in the basement - two for humidifiers on the heating/cooling systems (don't get me started on those as they are just mold generators) and one for a refrigerator ice maker. Got rid of the humidifiers and their valves, and replaced the ice maker supply line with a T with a quarter turn shut off. Some of the stuff that the plumbers did when they built this place was unbelievable. They must have been real amateurs.

[@jeffostroff]

Yes, your method is the way to do it. That's what a real plumber would do when the come in to fix it.

[@burningrock_]

Took a little offense at the handyman slander (I do rental maintenance so I could be considered a "handyman"), but you also made me more confident in my plumbing abilities since I've never taken these shortcuts and I've always gone out of my way to remove and replace accordion traps. Good video 👍🏻

[@danweeden9285]

Hi Jeff. First want to say I appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. I know the motivation is to educate people on the correct way to do plumbing. However, I do agree with a few of the other guys here, that while you may not intend to, you do come across with an attitude about "all" handymen and DIYers. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not some powder-puff with hurt feelings. I'm a "supposed-to-be-retired" general contractor with over 40 years in the business. I need to keep my hands busy so I now operate a Handyman business here in Reno, NV. There are a "few" of us out there that do excellent work and take a lot of pride in our skill and love to help people out. One of my values is that I believe a person can learn something new every day if they have the heart to learn. Heck, I've got 40 years of experience, which includes working right alongside my subs so I could learn some of the tricks that make the difference between an amateur and a pro. One of the first plumbing tricks I learned, like 40 years ago, is the "white bread" trick. I learned that from an 85-year-old-plumber that was doing some side-work for me. I had a dilemma, you know what it was, so I asked a professional plumber and he was more than happy to share his "secrets" with me. I won't go into detail about the trick, I'll leave it to you; you're the plumber! I also know a lot of code. But am I a scholar on the plumbing code? No! I didn't know about the S-trap. Now I know, thanks to you! Maybe in the future, you can structure your words so they don't belittle the DIYer. After all, they are also just trying to learn something new. And maybe say, "Some" handymen :) BTW - I agree with you on that horrible Husky Sleeve Puller. (I've always called it a ferrule) I also bought that, because I was on my way to a late-night emergency call and it was all I could find at Home Depot. It's awkward, no leverage, and clumbsy, no matter which notch you use. I personally like the English Tool Co. Dual Thread puller. Pretty much looks like the last one you demonstrated. Just couldn't tell if yours has their patented dual thread nut. Thanks again for taking the time to teach. You've got a new subscriber!

[@jeffostroff]

Thanks for your insight Dan and yes I also use the English tool company ferrule puller and I also put up a video in the past about the plumbers bread trick which was meant of course with a bunch of arrogance from some of the pro plumbers. I will be uploading a video soon that compares several options for removing a stuck ferrule.

[@AmericanDrainWorks]

I am a plumber and see these parts installed all the time. Drives me crazy. I am sending instructions on how to install an undersink drain along with this video so that they know what they can and can't do and why. Thank you.

[@jeffostroff]

Glad to help Connie!

[@AlGoYoSu]

As a first time home owner I have noticed many shortcuts taken by a DIY kind of person, particularly in the plumbing aspect. The house had one of those accordian style traps in the master bath, the inspector reccomended replacement so I did. There is also a saddle valve tapped underneath the kitchen sink. I previously didn't know this was against code (apparently my home inspector didn't either), thank you for sharing this information. It hasn't started leaking yet, and I'm going to get it out of there sooner than later.

[@jeffostroff]

Glad to see you're getting smart about all this. Just monitor the saddle valve, you can change it at your leisure, or if you do a remodel. We are remodeling my friend's kitchen right now, will be changing out all the valves to new water valves. Also a few weeks ago we uploaded a video on how to avoid the Saddle Valve, using 2 other alternatives, see it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXyuo4h_g7aglbc

[@josephcirelli9642]

Found your channel about 2 months ago and love the content! Scored the craftsman 105 pc gun metal set for $47.98. And found out about the Lowe’s 10% off cards on EBay. Now, the items not to use for plumbing. Really liked the wrench in this video so I bought from your description. Thanks so much Jeff! Can’t wait to see your next video!

[@jeffostroff]

Glad to help Joseph!

[@traviskee990]

Speaking of Arrogance.... I do both Home Inspections and Handyman work. Electrician by trade, but can do just about everything in the construction industry by gaining experience. I'm home inspectors are not "code " inspectors, however I call the flex pipe out Everytime, and Everytime I get flack, normally from "flippers". Last week, I was asked to replace a saddle fitting. I told customer I would replace with a different type valve. "SHARK BITE", because I explained the issues with saddle valve, just like you did in this Video. (Today is first time seeing this) I guess I do need to practice my people skills, because I don't want to be perceived as an arrogant "professional" as yourself. Man, you should never feel you are above anybody. We are all in this grind together. Best of luck.

[@jeffostroff]

Thanks for the insight Travis

[@rc67b]

I am so glad I found this video. We are in the middle of a kitchen and bathroom remodel and our contractor installed a form n fit p trap under our vanity. I checked Ohio pluming codes and it is the same as Florida. We paid way to much money for this kind of work. I will be calling him Monday morning to address this. Thank you for this great video.

[@jeffostroff]

Awesome, glad you checked on the codes, not everyone does, certainly not the installer.

[@angelacruz71]

Gawd i wish i watched this video a month ago. Had a stuck ferrule at a tenants house. I didn't know what it was called or that it could even come off. I changed the valve and couldnt figure out why it was still leaking. Called a plumber and he took a look and said the teflon was the problem. Oops. I took off the teflon but it leaked even more. Thought i damaged the valve with the teflon so i changed it again! Lol it still leaked! I figured it was that screw on cap that i couldnt take off so i gave up and called a different plumbing co. And they took off that ferrule thing that i didnt know could come off. They used that blue handle pliers though. They didnt use the ones you showed. Expensive lesson. Now i know what to buy and how to use it. Thank you so very much for putting these videos out. Im learning alot!

[@jeffostroff]

Awesome Angela. The plumbers that used the channelocks from what you described, that is a risky move because you can deform the pipe when you squeeze tight around the ferrule, rather than pull the ferrule straight out off the pipe from behind it with a duck puller tool or the Husky tool. Certainly a novice should not attempt that trick without a lot of practice in being gentle, and gently coaxing that ferrule off the pipe. Especially when it is stuck. the more stuck it is, the more force you have to use with pliers to try to remove it, which is why having that specific tool for this job works best

[@jackcarr177]

Been a plumber for 20 years. I use #4 to remove vintage handles off of tub valves and lavatory valves that are period correct for their home. And they help to not damage the finish.

[@jeffostroff]

Yes, I would imagine they will grip behind those larger handles a lot better than that mall area on the back of a shut valve nut.

[@joemoreno2029]

Im a journeymen plumber here in cali, and been in the trade for many years. This guy is right on point with his info. Saddle valves are junk that leak even you lightly bump accidentally especially if theyre corroded. Sadly yes home dump does sell these products. Any handymen trying to make a quick buck will sell you these items not knowing how long it will last or by a few months from now your gonna cause water damage somewhere because all these are cheap and end up leaking. Now with all the damages because a Diyer or a handymen caused you now have to call your home warranty company. Your home warranty company is gonna send their plumber and either say this is the home owners bad or its wear and tear.

[@jeffostroff]

Home Dump! that's good one I had not heard before. I usually call them Home Desperate or Home Cheapo.

[@joemoreno2029]

In a tight situation were my parts house is closed...I'll take home dump over lowes...lol

[@coupofmentality3417]

It's great that you take the time and effort to share information like these parts, relevant codes, and to question what the box stores are selling us. Probably just personal preference but the repetition, for example when you restate Florida plumbing code is using broader standardized plumbing codes, detracts from the content. Also consider that when you assume, like at 6:10, that something is because of price or because the (entire) group you don't like uses it, it doesn't benefit anyone but that arrogance previously bemoaned. It doesn't really matter what group someone belongs to IF they ignore a code or do shotty work. Let the trolls do the trolling.

[@petercarey7133]

thank you Jeff ,good vid. I'm a drywall Finisher , mostly commercial - there are lots of who do not mix 5gal. mud. the tip i give is in the 'mix' , use mud like whipped cream. a good tradesman is hard to find , glad i found you. I'm a union man@ belong to a local.

[@jamesbickford3294]

Florida does not use the Uniform Plumbing Code. The original base code for the Florida Code was the International Plumbing code. Your video is very informative. Many people ask why the big box stores are allowed to sell products that are banned by the codes, the answer is because the code does not regulate product sales, only product installation.

[@jeffostroff]

Yes this is what we have answered many people in the comments

[@jaycecounts1212]

Studying for my exam in Florida and I got scared for a minute….lol thanks for reconfirming Florida does in fact use the IPC

[@MariaRodriguez-bp1tl]

You are freaking awesome, I love when people do things right the first time and share their knowledge with us that want to do the same Im a DIYer and its funny to see the people that always have something negative to say, but I say "where's your video?" If they have so much to say, obviously they can do it to perfection teach us lowly peasants, haha! Ive only watched 3 of your videos because of plumbing problems my family and I are having, you have integrity and care about us and the customers you have, I trust the information you give and because of that, you've earned my subscribe, thank you💚

[@jimmarcum7362]

Jeff, I actually used the Superior Brand Ferrule/handle puller last night. It was very similar to the Husky brand, if not the same. Those two puller claws are not used to pull the the ferrule off, they are used to pull faucets handles off. I watched the Superior video and those claws were only used to pull handles off. The Superior brand did the job for six pipes with no problems. Yes the the T handle could could be longer for more leverage. I noticed you omitted putting the silver insert into the pipe before coupling the puller to the nut. That is the reason why the T handle was striking the back of the puller. So I can see why you were having problems using the tool. I wish they omitted the puller claws that were used to pull handles of with. Yes the tool is awkward and uncomfortable, but it was the only one I could find in stock. I would have bought a better one if it was available, and probably will order one online for future projects. But for 11 bucks and 6 leaking stops, this tool worked great. Maybe the Husky brand instruction are different? But the pullers look identical. BTW all the stops and pipe had the green corrosion and the sleeves were on there. The way you were demonstrating using the Husky tool is my opinion was incorrect. Sorry, I usually enjoy your videos and get a lot of useful information, but this time the demonstration on how to use the cheap Husky puller missed the boat. Here is a good video for reference kzbin.info/www/bejne/bXynlmt3eLCdrcU

[@redmatrix]

I love how silent Jeff is on this.

[@dtester]

@@redmatrix He's actually responded to a few similar comments, but he seems too hard headed to except the fact that he screwed up and used the tool wrong in the video. It makes me suspect he's never used it correctly and maybe it also reveals a part of his character.

[@FreeAmerican-mm2my]

@@dtester Busted, You said except when you intended to say accept. Your failure to edit this post to speak in proper English reveals a part of your charachter.

[@dtester]

@@FreeAmerican-mm2my Omg! Nooooo!

[@hjoe4473]

You’re absolutely right. Thank you for the detailed description of how to use the tool properly.

[@ginabasham52]

I love this channel my husband owns a plumbing business and he doesn’t think girls belong in plumbing so he refuses to teach me, so I use KZbin to learn. Thank a You for all you do.

[@jeffostroff]

Pretty soon you'll be correcting him! That will be cool!

[@helidude3502]

Or divorcing him and taking the business.

[@dangda-ww7de]

@@helidude3502 She can divorce him but once she take over the business she dont know what she is doing and go bankrupt, that is why he dont want to teach her, so she cant take over the business.

[@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936]

Go to his primary competitor, and get into a plumbing apprenticeship. When you get journeyman's....... he will have to compete to get you back.

[@abomatefera6828]

I am working as building maintenance. What you taught us here really really amazing. I loved your presentation. I am always struggling with all you mentioned and I loved your recommendations. I loved your English and surprised you bought a tool just to teach. Thank you so much. Aboma

[@jeffostroff]

Aboma, thanks for watching, and I'm glad this helps

[@michaelsirucek7388]

I have worked in the home improvement industry for over 40 years. I am a Master Handyman. Which means I have learned building codes and know when to call in Professionals if for no other reason to know it will conform to local codes. I have worked in Hardware stores also. So many times I catch DIY'ers and so called Pros trying to find things that will make the job easier. Usually after I explain why, they thank me for not making a mistake. Plumbing has always been an interesting area. As you know and have seen there is no end to the senseless creativity one can run into. You have my full support in educating people how and why things are done the way they are done and why there are codes to make sure they are done correctly.

[@jeffostroff]

Thanks Michael!

[@marvinsprowl8811]

i am a licensed Indiana plumbing contractor or more precisely a Master Plumber with 30+ years in the trade with a Indiana accredited 4 year apprenticeship program. #1 the ferrule compresses and bites into the copper tubing. It therefore makes an indentation and makes the ID of the tubing smaller. I agree that changing out those old fixture stops are a good idea And installing the 1/4 turn ball valve type fixture stops, removing the old brass compressed ferrule and applying a new one in the same spot is risky . I have never heard of anyone doing what you are doing! The copper tubing has been Compressed, the tubing itself is less than 1/2"id at that point. if you want to add a new valve solder on a copper coupling and tubing or a sweat 1/4 turn stop. Also the tool you are using is a knob puller for 2 handle lav., kitchen, or a old style tub/shower faucet. It was not made to yank off ferrules.. fyi -self piercing saddle tap valves drive me nuts! All too often a new home owner gets the water turned on to their new house then leave with the water on. Upon their return the wood floors are buckled, mold has set in from in the drywall soaking up the wall. Once installed you can not close them and that's why their illegal. The piercing tube is hollow, water flows before you raise the needle. They were used on the furnace's humidifier (AprilAir) originally and buttheads started using them for icemakers.

[@jeffostroff]

Marvin. I rarely see the ferrule leave an indent on the pipes, so I slide off the old one and the new one goes right there. If you are that worried about it, cut the copper pipe where the indent is, ream it out, and place the new ferrule. Second, you are wrong about the Husky tool, as is everyone else who comes to to correct me on it. If you look on the back of the package, they have 2 sets of instructions, one for a knob puller, and one for using it to pull off ferrules.

[@marvinsprowl8811]

@@jeffostroff the next time you remove a old ferrule, run your fingers across it. If the compresstion fitting was tight, the ferrule has bite into the tubing. I have that type of puller and it is one of three types of pullers i have for pulling knobs. I bought it so long ago i do not know it's brand name. The problem i have had with it is the part i place under the knob unbending. This is due to mineral deposits from a leaking packing nut or bonnet nut allowing water to run over the splins on the valve stem that come in contact with the knob. It's not my favorite knob puller

[@dansanger5340]

Interesting video. I'm a DIYer who used one of those accordion pipes one time. I wasn't proud of it, and wouldn't do it again, but it was easy. It's been in service for over ten years with no problems, so I'm in no hurry to replace it. Funny thing is that it isn't really needed. It's a pretty straight run. I was too lazy to drive to the hardware store to get a regular piece of pipe.

[@jeffostroff]

Dan, at least you're aware of it and know to be on the lookout for leaks, and you can change it whenever you want with minimal effort. Some of the older ladies we try to help don't know anything about what to do, or can't afford to hire someone to fix it. You're one of the lucky ones with no failures.

[@PJBonoVox]

@@jeffostroff I suppose the irony is that the more you stretch it, the less restrictive it would be. Still poor though.

[@DartzIRL]

Interesting on the S-trap. Here, the standards are written to control venting of the stacks instead to prevent the trap being sucked. Either by having a vent stack nearby, or air admittance valves, and advising on the size and location of vent lines and valves.

[@angiecarter7327]

Geezzz my 92yo mothers house has the S trap. The trap came apart from the pipe exiting the stink. It's a goner. Problem is...someone glued the nut on the part before the curve into the floor. The house is in ill condition and not worth living in but she won't move. So I'm gonna just do what I can with a P trap. Making Sure of the vent and adequate water fill. I guess.... P.s. I'm an arthritic riddled 64yo woman who used to do it all. Mom doesn't realize what it does to me but I'm the only of 3 who helps her. I hope you enjoyed the book and now I can't remember the purpose of this DIY. 🤷‍♀️ Have a blessed day!

[@geekfreak618]

Nice to see somebody with real knowledge. I removed one of those saddle valves (we call 'em vampire taps) that somebody installed for a water softener supply line. I ditched the softener then needed a simple 6 inch threaded galvanized nipple to replace that small section of pipe that had the tap in it. Lowe's was out of some things I needed so I went to a closer Home Depot. Two different employees in the plumbing department did not know what I was talking about and keep drawing diagrams of what they thought it was. They tried to sell me some of that black pipe meant for gas. I got to say nipple that day more times than I had for a decade probably. LOL I finally left and went elsewhere and had that pipe replaced in less than a half hour. I am always astounded at how little folks deemed to be experts at a trade really know sometimes.

[@jeffostroff]

glad you saw through all the smoke and mirrors, yes sometimes they don't have a clue there.

[@eliteinventor]

I very grateful to my plumber , I ve done jobs before like digging up and replacing a septic tank , sewer line , water heaters but to go under a house with limited crawlspace and replace water lines, or plumbing in historic districts these guys have my praise

[@jeffostroff]

You know it!

[@salcidojosiah]

I'm a youtube certified accordion P-trap professional installer. And I love those things.

[@jeffostroff]

Come to the dark side!

[@veltonmeade1057]

I have form and fit p-trap underneath my bathroom sink.

[@pjmazar4533]

Lots of good information on things I come across quite often in my remodeling business. It gives me plenty of repair work. Though I have my own method of removing the brass sleeves, I think you missed something when using the Husky tool. The L arms should rest in the 2 notches which will allow the T handle to rotate easily. Once you start to snug it up, you can grip the L arms around the nut.

[@jeffostroff]

Great point! But, the newer instructions don't have you using those arms at all, just the middle part of the tool that screws ontot he compression nut.

[@waterbug1135]

I had assumed parts sold were approved. Thanks.

[@jeffostroff]

Glad I could help

[@fastwigreviewwithlisabee8598]

My man is a professional plumber... This information will help me understand the conversations we have when he talks about work. Thank you 😁

[@johnmurray9422]

I've looked down the thread here and several Brits have rightly commented that the quickest and easiest method of removing a ferrule (olive) is to cut a diagonal groove across it with a junior hacksaw until nearly through, then inset a flat blade screwdriver in that groove and twist. Replies have suggested this may be in some way difficult, or liable to damage the pipe. It takes only 7 or 8 passes with the saw to give the depth of cut needed and it pops off easily. There is no need for special tools which will often not fit in the kind of restricted spaces plumbers work in all the time anyway, when such a quick, simple and foolproof method is available to anyone regardless of skill level.

[@jeffostroff]

"regardless of skill level.", LOL John I've seen some really stupid people out there. Even good friends who are dumber than a door nail that I've gone to help do repairs in their house, they could never handle that. Sure it's a good idea for those who know how to do it, but not for Joe Sixpack

[@ElectronSpark]

When I remodeled my bathroom I taught myself (from youtube videos) to sweat pipe fittings so I sweated on threaded adapters on all the water outlets. It's a handy skill to have for DIY and if the valve ever needs to be replaced, it can be done in minutes.

[@jeffostroff]

That's a great idea!

[@pontiacg445]

It's sooooooo much easier to solder new stuff than old stuff. You'll be heating for a lot longer, boiling the lines dry!

[@patriciacunningham5748]

Thank you for doing a video on new DOS and don't inplumbing. I don't work as a plumber but I do my own, so this is helpful.

[@iPlaneFun]

My plumber never returned to re-work my plumbing after they installed a dishwasher. So I got sick of not using the new dishwasher. I wish I found your videos on the j-flex no-no before I did the job. It works, but I had a feeling it wasn’t right. Thinking to myself the ridges are going to catch everything. I’ll re-do the plumbing and know what to do thanks to your other video on off-set drain connections. Found and subscribed to your channel due to your outstanding Champlain Towers reporting. Now when everyone says “you tube it” for home repairs - you are the go to! Thanks!

[@craig4451]

$40 for a small cast cylinder sleeve and a bolt. That's why people go for $5 saddle valves - we can't all make $60 an hour like plumbers.

[@nathayes123]

I do a lot of basic/moderate-level-difficulty DIY projects around my house. This video has been an eye opener for me. I didn't realize that HD and Lowes would sell non-code compliant products (I checked, and they are still selling a few of the products in your video). Thanks for an informative video.

[@jeffostroff]

Glad to help nate!

[@mekkler]

Of course Lowes, Home Depot sell this junk. They are not in the business of protecting adults from themselves.

[@deadmanprodinc]

Thank you, I've come to learn that the path of least resistance and/or going the cheapest route is often not the answer. You've proved that in 4-different ways, and there's more....good job setting us straight!

[@jeffostroff]

Thanks glad to help!

[@zorecati]

I love videos where someone makes a point and then has a source to back that point up. Well done. With that said, I have no idea why i'm watching this, but heck, I learned something.

[@jeffostroff]

Good learning experience, thanks for watching

[@Abonilla031]

*6 yrs plumbing. Yeah, never liked saddle valves. It creates too much work that isn't neccesssary. Rather throw on a duo 3/8 by 1/4 inch angle stop and run the line. Great vid🤙

[@luvdady]

yeah it should be called 6 months to 2 yrs insurance claim valve for your ice maker

[@brianglade848]

Or run a street coupler with a Denning valve

[@Beastphilosophy]

A previous owner did a whole bunch of work on my house around 2007, and we discovered it about two and a half years ago. The bathtub drain clogged about once a week. When I had the bathroom remodeled, it had one of those flexi drain pipes. The downstairs laundry drained into an S trap which we discovered after the drain clogged and soaked the downstairs. When we removed the damaged drywall, the nearby bathroom had upside down plumbing to the shower. Someone clearly did a fantastic job!

[@jeffostroff]

On bathtubs, you usually find the overflow drain is a flexible pipe, which is OK, since if it mainly used as an air vent. The only time that pipe would ever see water is during an overflow. But if the main tub drain at the bottom of the tub was flexible, then you have a problem for sure, that is a clear violation of plumbing codes.

[@Beastphilosophy]

@@jeffostroff Oh it was flexi all the way to the drain pipe running down through the wall. I'm pretty sure the whole thing would have failed code even with a normal piece of pipe.

[@jeffostroff]

@@Beastphilosophy Yikes, so it looks like the previous "plumber", for lack of a better word was too lazy or did not know how to cement PVC fittings and pipes together. I hope you had it replaced with the real deal when you had the remodel done. The other thing that makes me cringe when I see these stories is all the wasted junk that has to end up in the landfill because the job is essentially being done twice now.

[@martincruiz7976]

I respect anyone who performs a job seriously, conscientiously, and professionally. The video comes across as a hit piece on the "handyman" which in my opinion is a legitimate trade. There are shoddy performers in every trade, career or profession so we should keep that in mind when offering criticism or suggestions. I have employed a handyman or two in the past who have found and corrected shortcuts or mistakes made by licensed personnel. A licensed plumber shouldn't be "painting with a wide brush"!

[@jeffostroff]

Yes there are many good handymen, but very few here in FL.

[@fitbuff7665]

Thank you ! I am a DIYer but I still like to follow the codes, I appreciate your advice. I am also thankful for your explanation of the codes.

[@FredFlintstone21]

Thank you for making this video Jeff! I learned alot!

[@jeffostroff]

Fred, glad to help out!

[@rbilardo47]

Great need to know video. I've used most of those back in the day, I believe they were legal back then. I won't anymore lol. Thanks for sharing.

[@jeffostroff]

Thanks for tuning in Robert! I don't know when they changed the codes, but it had to have been many years back. A lot of times, contractors don't know code changed, or they learned it from someone who taught them wrong, and they just never find out the truth.

[@mrshiney2]

Saturday morning, kids and wife asleep....and me??, I am watching plumbing videos for no reason what so ever. Cheers

[@jeffostroff]

Rise and shine!

[@albertog6078]

Thank you very much Jeff for sharing your knowledge with us! Keep up the good work!

[@jeffostroff]

You are very welcome

[@tomcole3846]

Venturi effect, lad. Capillary action is how solder wick works, or a paper towel. I am enjoying this! Watched further and the floss was also an excellent example of capillary action.

[@uhmgawa6533]

How does that occur with typical "waxed" dental floss??

[@pontiacg445]

@@uhmgawa6533 Venturi effect is pressure differential causing flow, like a carburetor. For an s-trap the drain is the carb jet, and the toilet drain or otherwise is the bore of the carb. Capillary action is surface tension causing the flow, maybe with a slight side of gravity siphoning. Waxed dental floss probably makes it worse, it's hygroscopic so the water beads up and increases the tension all the more. Like watching raindrops on the windshield, they sit and pool till they get too big, then they streak down all at once, draining the entire drop. Surface tension held it there, and surface tension drags it all down.

[@d5whilmer]

As a plumber for 30+ yrs. I have to agree with almost everything you taught in this video. What I didn't understand was two-fold. Why would anyone try to use something as flimsy as a handle puller to try to remove a compression nut and ferrule? Why pull it in the first place? Dope and tape on the new angle stop will merry up very well with the old nut and ferrule. Only time I've ever change the compression ferrule is on very old copper and there is damage to the copper or old ferrule. Many times having to resort to getting my tiny tim out and saw off the old ferrule because of too little copper exposure between the wall escutcheon and end of the copper. Show em how to do that...not easy but, I've done it many times.

[@jeffostroff]

Hilmer: Husky touts this tool as a handle puller and a sleeve puller. They even have 2 sets of instructions on the back for whichever mode you use it in. A lot of properties I deal with have corrosion on the pipes or the old valve stop, so I always change the ferrule by policy anyway. The new valve comes with a new ferrule so why not use it. I always remove it, polish off the copper pipe nice and shiny, and install everything brand new again.

[@ChrisGilliamOffGrid]

I stopped using compression stops a couple of years ago. Sharkbites at the toilet. Easy to change. Also can take it off to change the escutcheon. Sometimes I use a sweat on stop, because it can be sweated off. Biggest problem is idiots cutting the stub out off all the way back at the wall. That pisses me off cuz I use chrome plated supply lines at toilets.

[@ronmexico79]

@@ChrisGilliamOffGrid sharkbites at the toilet is hack come on man

[@ChrisGilliamOffGrid]

@@ronmexico79 Nope. I do million dollar homes. The competition stubs out blue PEX and uses crimp on stops at toilet, with braided line. That is garbage. A copper stub out, sharkbite stop, and chrome supply line is by far the best looking way to do it.

[@MrJawnyNumFive]

Jeff, you're a sharp dude who explains clearly. Thanks. You have another subscriber.

[@jeffostroff]

Thanks so much and welcome aboard

[@LordHog]

Thanks for bring to light of the duck puller. The problem with DIY people like myself is 1) Usually something breaks and we need to head off to the big box store since plumbing stores may have already closed, 2) The big box stores tend to stock very little variety of a part and may tend to be cheap ones, 3) Just not knowing the name of other parts. I to bought the Huskey puller during a repair in the evening. Also though, if I one isn't pulling off the compression rings frequently and only does it once a year, then the Huskey tool might be worth while even for the grief encountered during its use. It was very difficult to use as mentioned. Going to pick up the Duck Puller.

[@jeffostroff]

Awesome you'll have the best of both worlds

[@ladyluck5248]

I’m an electrician not a plumber. Obvious to see that these plumbing solutions are crap. Lol. Thanks for the video. I should do one for electrical crap out there.

[@mr.j6913]

Eileen Kelly you should.

[@jburr36]

The same crackhead that did the plumbing in my pace also did the electrical. Green wires being used for the neutral. Exterior junction boxes without a binding ground wire. The circuit my fridge and microwave are plugged into are spliced into a knob and tube wiring (Not to mention my well pump is spliced, yes spliced, into the same circuit inside the sub panel), 220 volt wires to my stove are spliced into the original wiring that goes through an interior junction box mounted on the exterior of my house (and the splice is wrapped with electrical tape) which gets watered with my sprinkler system, Black wires being used for a neutral, a cut live wire protruding through the wall behind my water heater just hanging in the breeze, tandem breakers in a sub panel clearly not rated for them, Breakers from different manufacturers used in the sub panel..... I can go on and on. I'm not a licensed electrician but I just spent $1000 in just parts to fix that crap. I just ordered 2 AAVs to fix the non vented plumbing in my bathroom and kitchen and the S trap. If I ever find that stupid son of a b*tch who remodeled this house to flip it I'm going to sue him

[@ladyluck5248]

jburr36 report it to your electrical safety authorities and get a lawyer.

[@jburr36]

@@ladyluck5248 I'll deal with that after I do the repairs. I didn't even realize these issues existed until I inspected my sub panel when considering designing and pricing a solar power system. Seeing that mess just made me sick to my stomach. I do have pictures

[@unti419]

I'm a retired electrician. I don't do videos but if I did the first one would be about the dangers of plugging a generator into a dryer plug. I've seen people do this and as you know, it can cause linemen down the road to have really bad day. Linemen should and do ground every conductor before they touch it but this could energize lines all over the neighborhood unless the main breaker is off. Code requires a permanent mechanical interlock to prevent generators from sending power to utility lines.

[@drugtalk101]

I hate how Home Depot misleads people who wouldn’t know better I also hate handymen who give my business a bad name! I’ve worked for many companies in many trades and through hard honest work I’ve made a business for myself. But there are those who think you can just call yourself a handyman and watch KZbin videos for all your info! Ugh! Thanks for the informative videos!! 🤘😷🤙

[@jeffostroff]

Good to hear from one of the smart ones! I know they gotta earn a buck too, but if many of them would leave plumbing and electrical out of the equation they would be OK.

[@dessiewatkins1565]

You are so right. I only learn how to do it myself because I can't afford to pay professionals for their expertise. If I gain experience, the less trial and error, the happier I am with the savings.

[@sushyanlin]

Form n fit trap is used by my plumber a few days ago on a new sink. He is a licensed plumber from Thumbtack. Thanks for this video. I asked him to come back and fixed it and he did. Now it is all good.

[@jeffostroff]

Bad move, he should have known that is banned by plumbing codes in all 50 states

[@pgmreallaw]

Excellent presentation and well sourced! Always appreciate hearing from a real pro who knows what the heck is going on!

[@gcarmona66]

I've used the faucet handle sleeve puller, tool #1, to remove a sleeve that was stuck pretty tight. But I did not use the two side brackets, I removed them, and used the tool in a similar fashion as tool #3 in your video. I inserted the pointy tip of the tool into the pipe coming out of the wall and started threading the nut onto the threaded end of the tool by hand. Once it was too tight to thread the nut by hand, I used a wrench to turn the tool and thread the nut all the way out along with the sleeve. I did not have any room to turn the tool handle because the old valve was behind a stand type sink and so I used a wrench to turn the tool. I think the side brackets are supposed to be used for pulling a faucet handle, not for pulling a sleeve (ferrule).

[@jeffostroff]

Yes we ran into problem because with truly stuck ferrule sleeves, this tool can be a problem.

[@EricJD1966]

Yes. Remove the top part no need for arms - you are not supposed to use them as you aren’t pulling the nut. There are videos on line how to use this type of tool to remove a compression ring.

[@sgardner4313]

Thanks so much for this vid. I'd considered one of the flex-traps for a custom vanity where the sink hole was slightly offset. I ended up redrilling the sink hole to make it line up, and now I'm glad I did. Now my problem is an old cast-iron toilet pipe that extends up over the floor and was beaten down over the closet flange....

[@jeffostroff]

Ooooh, cast iron, we've played that game a few times, I hate it. They develop hole sin the pipes like cancer, and sewer gas leaks in the houses.

[@sgardner4313]

@@jeffostroff *sigh* Oh great. And if I wanted to replace that I'd have to rip up the entire floor and find out where it connects? I don't know, it's super-old and doesn't seem to have holes, fortunately. However, the pipe narrows as it goes down, causing all sort of other problems (like... trying to fit in a new flange, even one of those made to be inserted into those pipes).

[@uiscebeatha9476]

Saddle valves, when used with appliances that have an abrupt shut off of water such as a Washing machine or Ice machine, suffer water pressure shock. I fitted one of these to allow for a remote garden tap, luckily it never leaked in 20 years, but this is more due to its use. If I had an Icemaker on the end of it, the Water hammer effect of the demand being turned off would shock the fitting loose. Generally in the UK Sink, Shower & bath are separate from the soil trap from the toilet, so many don't have the issue. I agree, there aren't many applications when this could be used without risk of backflow or back gassing. I have seen these used in a situation when the s trap is very low in the cabinet & the sink has 8" plus drop from the drain plug. Even then there is no toilet on the same drain with the toilet .

[@jeffostroff]

Outside I have no problem using it.

[@JH-lz4dh]

Thank you very much for this video. This is a very helpful video for renters for what to look out for and avoid! I had taken a picture of underneath the sink of a potential rental I was considering but it had multiple code violations including that S pipe!

[@jeffostroff]

Yes, and now you'll be more aware of where to watch for leaks so it does not sneak up for you.

[@stevej822]

Appreciate the video! yay s traps in all my fixtures and a saddle valve for my previous fridge (inherited with the house). Love the 600 I paid for an inspection. I am a DIYer but like previous commenters I'm on here to know how to do it right. Thanks for the info!

[@jeffostroff]

Steve you are welcome and thanks for coming by to view our video

[@johnconyers9406]

The husky tool worked great, just remove those two hook like end pieces as they get in the way, but are not needed in this case. The part that screws in is the part that grabs the nut! However, the handle is not wide enough to give you the leverage you need, so I just had to add some leverage by putting some around it of small pipe on the ends, anything to extend and give you more leverage.

[@HMSRedbeard]

Jeff, my wife and I just bought an older home knowing that there were many repair issues in front of us. Your explanation of codes and procedures are exactly what I need! I want to make repairs correctly and not have to do them a second time because the first time didn't work or violated code. Your videos are saving me time and $$! Thank you! Subscribed and liked!

[@jeffostroff]

HMSRwdbeard Banks that is awesome to hear we hope to provide you with many more useful videos and welcome aboard!

[@terywetherlow7970]

Hey. Here you are. AGAIN! LOL i just updated my plumbing knowledge TY for doing these vids. Tee

[@jeffostroff]

Glad to help Terry!

[@r.d.riddle2068]

Handyman here. Something you didn't mention was the plumbing or building code is the MINIMUM requirement. If you're not doing the best job you can, you're over charging for your labor. I make it a habit to replace everything from the wall out when doing under sink work. It virtually eliminates callbacks.

[@jeffostroff]

Good strategy, I do the same, I want everything to be and look brand new.

[@missige]

Who knew?! Thank you for this great informative vid!

[@MRM-wp4gr]

I have changed many water shut offs over the years that were compression, and I have never once needed to remove that copper sealing ring that is stuck in place. I just leave it as it is and reuse the original nut and ring. I make sure that it's tight....works every time, and never leaks. If it wasn't leaking before, it won't be leaking after you change it if it is done right. The nuts and rings are all the same size for 1/2" copper pipe

[@jeffostroff]

Yes indeed, nothing wrong with doing it your way as long as you re-compress nice and tight and no leaks. I just like to start with all new blank canvas, all parts brand new, the sleeve has only been compressed once, when I compress it brand new. Besides, each new angle stop comes with a new compression sleeve so why not use it. Also, many properties I work on are foreclosures, or neglected properties, prior water damage, high moisture in bathrooms, where the angle stops have gotten corroded, and the copper pipe coming out of the wall is corroded, so I remove everything, and "sand it" with Scotchbrite to polish it off nice and shiny brand new copper, then install all the new parts. Looks like a million bucks, and top it off with a brand new decorative flange as well.

[@court2379]

Exactly why go to the effort. I have also found if they have a very small leak, if you leave it tight overnight they often seal up. The metal must creep under the stress and seal. Found the same with black pipe and gas lines too, though it has to be a really small leak to have a chance as steel doesn't creep as much. 40min to get the compression ring off I would have just hacksawed it most of the way thru and broken it open in 15min. Cut at an angle and don't nick the pipe. I always put npt ends for the stop valves and then I don't have to fiddle with those compression rings. NPT is easy to replace and they never leak. I have had too many compression ones that do leak.

[@jeffostroff]

@@court2379 I also like to test all of my installations with hot water flowing through the pipes afterwards and especially the plastic cups it makes everything expand out and then shrink back later when you switch to the cold water that were you have fully exercised the installation.

[@fixitmann6685]

You will someday run into one where it WAS leaking at the nut, and the nut is corroded, and there is no way you can re-use it. Typically if there's room, you can just cut off the pipe and use the new compression ring with a new nut. If there's not room, you'll have to do something else, such as try to remove the ring and get the new one to hold onto the (often corroded) pipe, or use a push-on fitting, or tear into the wall to replace the pipe and leave enough pipe sticking out for several refittings after cutting the ring off.

[@CGT80]

On commercial properties, I found old valves/nuts that did not match the threads on new angle stops. I like to start out new, but sometimes would reuse a nut and ferule if it would seal up. The way to remove a ferule is with a professional splitting tool. It is also heavy cast aluminum with a nipple to go inside the copper tube and a blade that is turned into the ferule. Small channel lock pliers easily turn the bolt on the blade (it isn't a hex, but has external splines). Far too often, the old valve was installed so tightly that it deformed the tube and it wasn't possible to seat a new ferule on it. If there is enough tube, I would cut behind the old nut and use a new compression valve or just sweat on a 1/2" threaded male copper adapter and use a threaded valve. Property managers were happy to have us replace all of the valves and supply lines when getting a suite ready for new tenants, as the bill for us to professionally clean up, treat, and repair water damage was much higher. The buildings were built with flexible hard lines built into the angle stops and they were prone to leaking.

[@beef539]

Nice to see someone like you who can give others good advise on these “waste of money- Mickey Mouse” tools that don’t work. Thank you.

[@jeffostroff]

Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm glad that my videos can help others make informed decisions about their purchases. It's always important to share honest advice and save people from wasting their hard-earned money.

[@cjhification]

I'm a home owner, and just use 15mm pipe cutter and deburring tool, then use a washing machine 15mm t-piece with a ¾"BSP valve that has compression fittings and either copper or brass olives (feral), quick, easy and reliable, did it for my water purification system and dishwasher, still going well, with no issues 5 or 6 years on.

[@-Enrico]

Great info, from another plumbing contractor in Florida. Good stuff

[@jeffostroff]

Enrico thanks I'm glad you liked it!

[@mattmonaghan3354]

Whoa whoa back the truck up. A few years ago I was told I had to install S traps instead of P traps that's coming from my city inspector. I'm in Michigan.

[@craig3342]

that is because you are in Michigan...

[@HeimirTomm]

I just came across this, watched it and immidiately subscribed. Now, I live in Europe so we don't have the same codes (S bends are allowed here) but all that I've seen so far makes perfect sense to me. I have remodelled quite a few houses in my time but the one thing I ALWAYS do is to get a qualified plumber and electrician to look over my work before I close anything. Thanks for this video, it was enlightening.

[@jeffostroff]

Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!

[@blakel5526]

thank you for this information. I'm remodeling our bathroom and the contractor I hired allowed his plumbing sub to put form n fit P traps under both vanities. Now I have the information to talk to him.

[@jeffostroff]

Yes it is just so frustrating how many alleged professionals out there are doing this even to this day that they just don't know this simple basic plumbing 101 says to me that they've never even studied any type of plumbing codes or even just ready plumbing for dummies guide about what not to do

[@PJBonoVox]

@@jeffostroff I'm a weekend warrior and have never seen those flexible pipes before, but it was instantly obvious as to why they're a terrible idea. Common sense isn't as common as you might think.

[@rickyparr8001]

Thank You,i really,really appreciate being educated,i love to be educated,learning is forever.Thank you, again and again.

[@jeffostroff]

You are welcome Ricky!

[@VBlackadder]

Great information....hopefully the DIY people will learn from this. One thing to keep in mind for your future videos....Methane gas is Odorless. Methane is usually present in sewer gasses but it's not the one that smells bad.

[@jeffostroff]

and it's odorless and tasteless, so I wonder which gas it is that we smell when we open up the p-traps

[@andyowens5494]

jeffostroff Sulphides. Most commonly hydrogen sulphide.

[@mikemensinger5763]

natural gas (methane and other hydro-carbons) service has an odorant mixed into the service lines, so we tend to identify a gas leak with that gas smell. That's done on purpose :) I agree with Andy Owens, some kind of sulfur compound will be what smells.

[@mathewmolk2089]

Retired industrial electrical/millwright contractor here with 49 years in the trades when I retired 6 years ago. We were mostly industrial only, but there was a time where we used to do a lot of commercial build-outs. When we were doing the "make safe" for the demo contractors and the plumbers and fitters were killing off the water and sprinkler system, especially in restaurants and places where they had self serve coffee and soft drinks there were saddle valves on copper that were there for decades. - Not a sign of a leak. - It may be in your code now, but don't try to tell everybody that a saddle connection WILL ALWAYS leak, because it simply is not true. It the very same principal as the saddle taps the HVAC guys use, and they seldom have a problem with them and they are running at 300 PSI with a gas that will get through MUCH smaller defects then a liquid. And BTW, just how do you hot tap a water main without using a saddle ????

[@jeffostroff]

turn off the main water first the solder in a T-adapter, then use a compression valve.

[@aa07011]

Why can't I just cut the ring with hack saw blade? I just did that last week and replaced 6 valves and then I used new shark shut off valves I am not a plumber, I am a finish carpenter, but when I told the customer she needs a plumber she was like can't you do it all? I said sure no problem...I was planing to use a plumber...but boy they are supper expensive!!! I was little nervous because i might lose the job for over price it so I decide to take my chance and do it myself. And I did it!!! it took me 2 trips one to home Depot and one to Low's because the standard P trap was not long enough and the drain was way off center but with a lot of questions and some KZbin videos (yours and others) and a lot of prayer to God!!!! I got it done!!! and I loved it because I learned something new and it was really fun job, it is like putting toys together, the 1st one was the hardest one and the longest because I had to read all the instructions even it was very simple and easy but I was little nervous but when I was done I made extra $400 to install the 3 faucets and customer pays for all the parts. Now I am thinking to learn plumbing because they make triple what the carpenter does for the day even though the carpentry much harder and it take triple the time to do the same job.

[@jeffostroff]

That's not a problem at all Dean, lots of guys cut them off, it's the norm in the UK, they cut a slit in the "olive" as they call it, and separate it with a flat head screw driver.

[@louierodriguez1630]

Great information. Found out I had one of these illegal devices after noticing my sink draining slowly.

[@jeffostroff]

Did you get it fixed? what did you replace it with?

[@nwhome9615]

The reason why there is so many DIY plumbers is because plumbers charge so dam much for a simple fix or change 🤷‍♂️

[@jeffostroff]

I think everyone should know how to do simple stuff, then when you need to solder in a new main valve outside, you call in the pros.

[@nwhome9615]

@@jeffostroff Totally agree with you on that on

[@billywoodman60]

Your house is your investment. Do you want it done right?? Or half ass?? Plumbing prices are what the living wage is for where you and they live. If not they should be reported to the BBB. I'm fare with my customers. I just don't work for free. I have to eat and pay bills just like any other business or trade. Sorry. Not to be funny but, I like steak and lobster just like everyone else does.

[@hosedude70]

Obviously you are not a business owner. Hopefully your paying for experience and expertise. What is your time worth at you job ?

[@ef7480]

Incorrect. You pay the right price for someone else's skill and knowledge. They weren't born with these skills, they have to train to do it. I bet you wouldn't use the same theory if you had to go to court, ie, you could always try do it yourself for free.

[@renreb__6087]

Thanks Jeff, wish you where here 20 years ago when I used two of those products, I'm a DIY 'er! Hope to have success with the removal of the stuck shower arm from your other video!

[@jeffostroff]

Awesome, lot s of people have reported success using our video on removing the stuck shower arm.

[@jcam7937]

Super helpful and informative! I’m just a homeowner, and don’t consider myself a diy-er. It is really great to understand what should not be used. Thanks!

[@jeffostroff]

Glad to help out and thank you for watching you Jen

[@nelson2231]

The husky tool works fine when used correctly. First you have to use all of the parts. The most critical is the one that rolled off of your table when you picked up the tool. That was the insert that fits the tool to the end of the pipe just like your other tool does. The wings are not used for sleeve pulling, just faucet handles. It doesn't have the leverage that the wrench driven one does, but will easily pull all but the most stubborn sleeves.

[@wonjuchoi9941]

Agreed. I though the same way Jeff did, but I read the manual again and found I need to put the round insert and screw. No wings are necessary here.

[@brianreinhardt4050]

Isn't it funny a "qualified" and "licensed" plumber is too inept to read instructions...and then complain about the tool he used improperly.

[@NoppeNband]

@@brianreinhardt4050 hey mr. bob villa, no one is perfect and the instructions are not very clear. I used it wrong at first too, its a consumer grade tool not something pros would buy (and I had an emergency repair to make, HD only had that tool available, so it had to work)

[@wizardglick1]

A lot of professionals rig stuff up and take short cuts, not just handymen. Conscientious people do it responsibly.

[@esemiklo5833]

BINGO!!

[@christheother9088]

As a handyman I've repaired lots of bad work done by licensed plumbers and electricians.

[@coryszeman8572]

Mobile home companies pass crap materials and workmanship all the time too lol

[@WhirlybirdFlyer]

"Handyman special" is a term used in the industry to refer to work done by someone who doesn't know what they are doing and does not necessarily refer to handymen. As a Florida plumber I have seen a lot of shoddy work from all over the spectrum.

[@garyK.45ACP]

If your definition of "professional" is "Gets paid for doing it", yes, you are correct. That's a pretty low standard.

[@freedomunrestricted]

Have two of the prohibited items on your list. The saddle trap was recommended by family members before I knew any better. Decent enough at soldering so plan on changing it out soon. The flex fitting connects my tub drain, I'll take my chances with that one lol.

[@jeffostroff]

As long as it is connected to the overflow drain that is ok on the tub, most are like that

[@darylsmith9318]

I’m a DIYer but I read the codes and do a lot of research.

[@jeffostroff]

Awesome the codes are easy to find and read too

[@herrtio]

Thanks for keeping the integrity in plumbing!

[@jeffostroff]

You bet! Thanks for watching!

[@cbajorek]

I am general contractor, never used saddle valves myself, I remember when I moved to my house I had 3 of them and my first thought was to replace them, but that I thought "let's see how long they are going to last?" - 19 years later: not a single drop of water, not a single problem ....

[@jeffostroff]

Christopher, yes it seems to be hit or miss, some people have problem, while others get lucky. It's like the 80 year old guy who smoked all his life doesn't get lung cancer, but a girl in her 30 dies from it.

[@dleggs7038]

As a home inspector and dreaded "handyman" I see HVAC guys install those all the time on whole house humidifiers. We always recommend replacing them as they have a tendency to leak more often. Also, take it easy on us handy guys...we're no all idiots and sweating copper & gluing PVC isn't rocket surgery!

[@jeffostroff]

@@dleggs7038 you got it!

[@dleggs7038]

@@jeffostroff , appreciate your content and time you put in to the vids.

[@92hbhb]

I had one in my home when I bought it.. They tapped it for the humidifier at the furnace.. Never leaked or had a problem for the 8 yrs I owned the home. But the dam water heater decided to leak 4 months b4 I sold the house.

[@cpcoark]

Nice info. I never liked saddle valves either but did know they were against the code. Had a new furnace installed with a humidifier. Those "Pros" used a saddle valve. I was upset but didn't know it was against the code or I would have made them change it. The good part it is in the basement so very easy to inspect, which I do often. 20+ years and still no leaks.

[@jeffostroff]

Glad it helped you with this video, at least now you know to look for it. Most people don't have a clue and have a leak running for weeks before they discover the damage and the water has wicked up the drywall.

[@rickkoleyahoocom]

jeffostroff To answer your question ,The Saf-T-Kut Brass ring remover does the job , its simple ,fast and easy,, I bought mine used but I looked it up Construction Supply Sources has them for a penny less than fifty bucks. I am impressed you cared to ask. This is one I got excited about because how simple and basic it is.

[@jeffostroff]

I got to look into one, and do a tool review.

[@randymack1782]

the pipe tap, I saw a plumber use something similar at house I grew up in, but it had full galvanized pipes, no plastic, nor copper, water lines other than that, and 1 more weird 1 I didnt see installed, but on first one I remember him drilling a hole before installing the one to fridge, & I would have been in my single digits & I am 53 now. the other was another saddle to galvanized pipe feeding a whole house humidifier, that attached to furnace. the furnace used copper to it, but was there when parents bought home before i was born. as for the tool to remove the ferrules, put a hose clamp over it & tighten, thats how mechanics do for cheap gear pullers to use them. & I ever had to remove a "plumbing" ferrule, but I have in automotive & I used a dremel with cutting disc & cut & tap until I broke it loose, sometimes dressing end of tube to shorten it so new ferrule wouldnt be in same spot so I knew it would seal if I had damaged surface in any way while removing old one, plus somtimes tube is compressed in that spot & new one will never seal. had that happen on external oil feed lines

[@johnosman8971]

Absofrigginglutely with the ferrule collapsing the diameter of the tubing, … some guys think, they need to “over-torque” these fittings, … which, is generally how they diameters get deformed in the 1st place, …

[@notsure7874]

I agree totally - but one thing has always escaped me about the flex trap thing ... why would an insurance company care? If it's leaking - it's VERY readily apparent where the leak is, and very easy and cheap to fix. It's on a sink, how much water can it leak before somebody shuts off the faucet? I just don't see it doing any real damage. If it does it's 100% homeowner neglect and should be excluded from the policy. My house had one I wasn't aware of until I had to get new insurance less than a year after I bought it. My agent is an idiot and failed to communicate effectively between me and underwriting - but he told me they didn't want to write the policy "because the plumbing is old" (house is 30 years old), he said thats all they said and didn't say what to fix - I had to grill him before he said "Insurance co's don't like plumbing over 50 years old", I said my house is only 30, he came back with maybe it's this flex pipe in the inspection report ... it was a HUGE fiasco. In the end it was NOT the flex drain, but somehow those idiots thought my plumbing was over 50 years old in a 30 year old house? I DID replace the flex because I don't want it there, but the moral of the story is that insurance companies nitpick some really stupid stuff sometimes that have no bearing on what could cause any real damage. Case in point - the entire reason I had to get new insurance - is that my current insurance required me to REPLACE a 10 year old roof that's in perfect condition ... over a screen porch in a concrete block house. As for their 50 year thing - are we supposed to jackhammer up the concrete foundation to replace all the pipes every 50 years "just because"? Insurance companies and their employees are generally criminally stupid.

[@jeffostroff]

Perry your oinfo is good except for the hwole first paragraph. It is NEVER s VERY readily apparent where the leak isto most homeowners clueless on home maintenance. The flood stays inside the vanity rotting out th ebottom of the vanity, then after that they start noticing the rot on the floor and the bottom of the vanity, then it spreads up the drywall, then soaks to the interior of the drywall, then you have moist humidity inside the wall space, then you have mold growing inside your walls for weeks until you begin to smell it. By then it's 10,000 to $30000. I have fixed numerous friend's bathrooms over the last 5 years, and even kitchen sink vanitis where it rots out of the bottom.

[@TomCee53]

A few things to note. 1. There are good and bad plumbers as well as good and bad handymen. No need to elaborate. 2. Sometimes the instructions are poor, missing, or ignored. As far as the Husky puller, I partially blame the instructions. From the product Q&A: The hardest part of replacing the toilet shutoff valve was getting the old compression ring off the tube. This tool works great, it would have been impossible do without this tool! Watch the KZbin video on this tool.The instructions don't do justice. You have to use both the brass adapter and the silver insert to prevent damaging the tube. The copper adapter screws into the old compression nut to pull the ring off. Remove the shaft from the rest of the tool, the rest of the stuff gets in the way in cramped spaces, where shutoff valves seem to be normally installed. If the handles don't provide adequate leverage, use a wrench or extender to get more leverage, that is what I needed to do, compression rings tend to be pretty stubborn, took some persistence. This tool got the job done without damaging the tube. Installing the new compression shut-off valve was easy after that. As noted, the arms are not needed for removing the compression ring. This works pretty much like the higher prices tools you showed.

[@jeffostroff]

Yes my biggest complaint about that tools always been that the arms get in the way because you can't remove them

[@janeramos9472]

Found your video interesting to watch. I can't wait to see your next video. Good Luck with the upcoming update. This video is really very interesting and effective

[@jeffostroff]

Thanks Jane!

[@bigggordon1641]

I use the traditional S trap in all of my installations and renovation work, they are the most reliable and sufficient it’s all about the flow a prevention of possibility with water ingression if you connect a 42mm Easyflo conventional waste pipe to a S-TRAP the speed of the waters return elevates by 60% the greater the number of degree being a 90/45.6 on the curvature with the bends flow will equally level out water pressure capacity inside the dual capillary action. I’m a gynaecologist by and I forgot what we where talking about 🤔

[@---wl3bi]

Stuff all this soldering bring on the push fit fittings, I've used a similar saddle type valve assembly on refrigeration pipework, never had a problem, no leaks and I believe 20 years on still OK

[@plumbmaster7022]

- - maybe if you never turn on or off they be OK.

[@isettech]

Saddle valves are not hermetic seals and do have a slow bleed through the gasket. Saddle piercing valves are only used today for refrigerant recovery on small hermetic sealed refrigeration systems such as window AC, refrigerators, ice machines, and water coolers.

[@mikesimon9529]

Thanks for the heads up I will be in Florida soon 😁👍✌️

[@philipbreau1246]

I was fired by a customer because I didn't use a saddle valve he had to hook up his fridge. There were other things he wanted done and wanted me to cut corners. I said no to all the short cuts. Funny thing is we agreed on a contracted price which included labour. Thanks for your video. Great tips to do it right.

[@jeffostroff]

Thanks Philip. I wonder if he ever got a flood later on!

[@antidecepticon]

Verry true those bendy pipes have what i think are called in gold mining are riffles. they cause the water to do little centrifugal spins as it flow,s and the bottom of the rifle is very slow moving or stagnant so anything heavier than water falls and stays in the bottom of the valleys. So if you are a gold miner you might want these ....

[@MannyFontes1968]

FYI, not all handyman do bad work as you say with that "handyman special" dig you mentioned on the accordion quick fix. I've been a handyman for many years and have had to correct mistakes that supposid licensed and professional plumbers had done only to have the customer complain to me about their shoddy work. I'm doing a remodel now that a previous plumber used that exact P-trap on a bath vanity just to cut corners. Not only that, but he re-ran all new plumbing in this house and didn't even remove the old supply valves and it looks like crap next to the new ones.

[@jeffostroff]

Well, you shouldn't be offended, because you're not the guy that installs those incorrect parts. But, I also doubt whether real plumbers put those accordions in. Maybe they were put in after fact by someone else? Unless the city inspectors missed it... But yes you're right plumbers do sometimes get sloppy, keep in mind most of the construction of new houses might be permitted by license plumbers, but their worker bees are sometimes not the most talented, and I too have had to fit fix many plumbing issues done wrong by builders plumbers.

[@MannyFontes1968]

@@jeffostroff I wasn't offended but was only making a point and in my case, my customer paid a plumber and that was the result. I agree that yes, not all work is done by the licensed guy but I would think that he would at least check the work of his guys.

[@jeffostroff]

@@MannyFontes1968 A local plumber that I have used in the past would stop by the job near the end and make sure the work was done by his guys properly.

[@Jack-Surreal_Panes]

Used these on many occasions. 10 years later, went to a home, still there and functioning fine. Sure , will hard pipe but some of these older homes have been altered so much a plumber will charge outrageous prices. Local plumber charged $80 to replace a toilet flat valve.

[@jeffostroff]

@@Jack-Surreal_Panes That's why I tell people that learn how to change their own flappers

[@migdi242424]

Thank you for this very useful video and for the class.. I feel like I'm ready for my plumbing license.

[@jeffostroff]

Keep watching some of our other plumbing tips videos, we solve some cool problems.

[@sergioramos6913]

Appreciate the thorough video explanations and the tool reviews! Saved me time and potential fails. Best Regards, Sergio

[@jeffostroff]

Glad to help Sergio!

[@papabits5721]

I have saddle valves running 20 years now without failure

[@jeffostroff]

Keep your fingers crossed, it's always when you make the claim, that the claim comes to bite you in the butt!

[@garyK.45ACP]

The "codes" referred to are industry standards compiled by experienced professionals in each industry. When they say a device should not be used, it is because that device has an increased risk of causing a problem which outweighs the benefit of the risk. It is not based on the fact YOU have a valve that hasn't leaked for 20 years. YOU are not a "statistically significant sample". Sort of like saying "Smoking is not an increased risk of lung cancer because I have smoked for 40 years and I don't have lung cancer" or "Seat belts don't save lives because I never wear a seat belt and I have never been killed in a car accident" I do not assume you can grasp the concept of risk/benefit and "increased risk" so, to be clear... It does NOT mean "all these valves will leak". It does NOT mean "Most of these valves will leak" it MEANS "these valves will leak more often than the recommended alternative and the cost benefit, which is very small, does not make up for the increased risk." So, now, I think you may understand why your comment is irrelevant.

[@jimmorgan465]

I am a fixer of all, I fixed a new chinese 3/4 pipe New with a hole in it , with a piece of hose and a hose clamp , going on 30 years ago . No plex in my house , only galvanised and copper flares . 3/8 copper Fast hot water no waste , Valves have a 1/4 inch restriction in them , No lost pressure each pipe from source to fauset . 3/8 copper can freeze and not break .

[@TheEvie202]

Listen to Jeff about those saddle valves . There great until they fail and have to replace your drywall! Check the water line at least once a week.

[@bcarroll6274]

gary K I don’t think you had to write a book.

[@SuperFunkmasterj]

Jeff - good tips on the illegal fittings, Thanks for all that! However, I'm pretty sure you're using the husky ferrule puller tool incorrectly. The two side straps that you're holding together by hand actually don't need to be held - if you look at the crossbar at the hand-side of the tool, you'll see there's two little notches, one on either end of the cross bar. The back end of the side straps fit into those notches. Once in place and tightened up slightly, you don't need to hold the pulling straps in place - just turn the screw. Also, setting the pulling straps into those notches provides a better angle at the work end and clears the bar so it doesn't bang into the straps while turning. Agree that the other two pulling tools are more elegant and compact, but the Husky tool can be made to work.

[@jeffostroff]

Newer versions of this tool the instructions tell you not to use those side arms when you are pulling ferrules, only when pulling shower knobs.

[@Marcoosianism]

The straps are only used for knobs.

[@floydburr4138]

Thank you for making this video Jeff!

[@jeffostroff]

Glad it was helpful!