American Standard Toilets...How to Install the VorMax (Step-by-Step)

American Standard toilets are super easy to install. This tutorial shares how to install a new American Standard VorMax, which cleans the bowl with one big jet of water.
If you're doing a bathroom remodel and need help, enroll in Home Repair Tutor's online courses at www.homerepairtutor.com/👍🏼
Before we begin there are 5 things to consider when buying a toilet:
1. Rough-in
2. Height
3. Shape
4. Color
5. New Technologies
Always know your rough-in before getting the new toilet. This is the measurement from the closet flange bolts to the wall (not the baseboard).
Height is personal preference, but if you can test the height at the store that's a good thing.
Shape is easy. Most of the time your choices are round or elongated. Round is good for tight bathrooms...by that I mean small.
Color is again a personal preference. I recommend having the toilet match the vanity and tub.
Technologies have changed with toilets. In today's tutorial we install the VorMax toilet which has better cleaning action than a traditional throne (had to throw in a little funniness).
To Purchase Complete Vormax toilet on Amazon - amzn.to/2A9U3dL
Don't forget a supply line to connect toilet (12" supply is most commonly used) - amzn.to/2A7E6ED
Channellock Crescent wrench - amzn.to/2Bo8pW0
The first step in replacing a toilet should be to remove the old one. I have a good video on how to do that
• How to Remove a Toilet...
The next step is to inspect the closet flange and fix it if need be. I have a good video on how to do that, too
• Toilet Flange Repair U...
And finally, when you're ready to install the toilet you can watch this video
• American Standard Toil...
For a complete step-by-step written tutorial and supply list check out
www.homerepairtutor.com/ameri...
Btw, this is my CYA, I'm not responsible for any toilet leaks...it's up to you to inspect your work and make sure it's up to code. This video is meant to be for entertainment purposes.

[@dr.pierrecrosetto1652]

Overall good video. However, like a few others, I would be concerned about a leak caused by lifting the bowl to level it AFTER compressing the ring. I would put the bowl on the floor first, without the ring, level it, glue the shims in place, then put the ring down and compress it. That way you' never move the base of the bowl away from the ring after compressing it.

[@hraz8720]

Thank you very much I watch your video today and you save me a lot of money. Oh my God I replace my toilet and I’m good to go❤❤❤

[@518sjohnson]

Nice video. Thanks. I agree with you on the American Standard products. Off to buy two more right now! Take care.

[@DanHarrington55]

We had two of these installed a few months ago and have had problems with them running. The float on the red flapper lodges under the black flapper, holding it open. I have a call into the company to figure out what needs adjusted but it sure wastes a lot of water if you don't notice it happening.

[@joeysnyder7532]

The library in my town has a few of these toilets but a different style and it really flushes and they used a commercial seat on these instead of a lid that it provides.

[@herohunter81]

I put the toilet tank on, but it wobbles a little. Is that normal? I’m afraid to tighten it too tight and crack the porcelain. All the washers are lined up, and nothing is cracked.

[@Cgisholt]

Once the new toilet is in place, flooring complete do you caulk around the toilet?

[@hectordiaz1702]

I recently buy American standard but I don't flush the first time I always have to make twice we try any kind of adjustment but it doesn't work any ideas???

[@theamerican4609]

What do I do if the flange (not spacer) does not line up to the 12 inch mark? In other words, the flange is about 5 degrees turned so the small part of the slots on each side aren't at 9 oclock and 3 oclock but instead are at 9.5 to 3.5. ...so the bolts won't stay put because they are in the wide part of the slot. Do I need to replace the flange and put a new one into the subfloor?

[@MrConradF]

So, since the wax ring was already compressed before the shims were added, won't this possibly lead to a gap, or at least loose, seal of the wax ring?

[@HomeRepairTutor]

+MrConradF it should not as long as the bowl isn't rocking. In order to add the shims the closet bolt nuts have to be loosened. The shims are added then the nuts tightened again. Thad should compress the bowl against the wax.

[@cuppsdriveinn1851]

Man you nailed it . Great instructions.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

Thank you 🙏🏼

[@dean3583]

You just damaged the wax ring and open access for sew gas into the house. Once the wax ring pressed down in the bow it's done. I think you are fussy about the level in the front but after you set in the tank and water the gravity will add more weight to the back and press down the wax, it should be fine just leave it as is without the shim.

[@monetwagon]

I found it odd he didn’t recheck the level? Is the down supposed to be level? What if the shim raised it up too high....then what do you do?

[@chupalia]

Good job Jeff.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

+chupalia thanks, hope it helps

Good video. Thank you.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

Thank you, hope the tips helped

[@checkeredflagfilms]

why didn't you screw/secure the white 'extender' plate down to the wood? Only thing holding it is caulk? That can move around.

[@whasumara73]

Thank you for the instructions. I'm planning on installing a new toilet and I'm considering this model because of the power in flushing, but I have a couple of question because I've never replaced a residential toilet. I got lost on the height of the flange. As I understood it, the flange needs to be flush or 1/4" above the finished floor. Which height is better to prevent a leak and to make a tight seal between the wax and toilet bottom? My floors are old so I might have to add what's called a spacer as I understand it. Can the flange be higher than 1/4"? Thank you for your patience and your information is much appreciated.- Jose

[@Garga0]

Yes you can raise a little more. How much more depends on wax ring thickness. Measure it and estimate it. There are other seals in market which are better than the wax seal. They cost only 5.99 or so. And height and leakage is never a problem.

[@alexscott_rich]

Great help.

[@frenchguy4888]

I'm deciding between the Optum Vormax or their Champion 4 Max. I like the new Vormax flush type, and I also like the piston style flush actuator in the Champion over the dual flappers in the Vormax. I think the Champion may be more reliable long term. Any thoughts?

[@HomeRepairTutor]

You're on to something, the Champion has been solid for years. I like the Vormax but having less moving parts is better. I'd go with the Champion over the Vormax for that reason.

[@Garga0]

I found vormax easteem the best looking and best performing toilet. It is cheapest in line, I can set the flush to half gallon and it still flushes to clean. Or I can set it to more than a gallon and make every critic happy. The other next best but expensive toilet I found is vormax plus. Looks are a little less impressive but it has a Lysol insert place. But I don't miss the Lysol insert place because there are things available in the market which I can add inside the tank to add additives to keep the flush always self cleaning. (In fact I made one on my own and save a little more water each time I flush.) In vormax esteem keeping the hand lever pressed a little extra does not cause it to lose the priming. But the priming is always quick - a maximum of 5 flushes (actually 2-5) when needed in all my toilets.

[@redhotsweetpotatoe]

What, if anything, would you use on the front of this toilet to fill the small gap where you raised it up with shims? Seems like water from mopping or other fluids could get up under there.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

+redhotsweetpotatoe great question, I should have shown this. Apply a bead of silicone between the bowl and floor 👍

[@MrConradF]

I'd always heard that the joint between the base and the floor should not be caulked, as it would hide a leak.

[@dean3583]

caulk it.

[@znrctrnn]

MrConradF don’t caulk the rear. This is a compromise.

[@Carlossantos-wg8rs]

great video

[@abdelmonemhagag8238]

nice ,i like your videos .

[@HomeRepairTutor]

+Abdelmonem Hagag thanks 👍

[@steveg1081]

(WT###!!!) jk, I think I am seeing this video right on time! I am doing a complete bathroom remodel by myself and I just put down my Hardiebacker board. The existing closet flange was on top of the subfloor, so I cut by hardiebaker to go around the flange. If I dry lay the tile, the top of the closet flange is about flush with my new 3/8" marble tile but I would like to have it 1/4" above finish floor like you recommend. I know its all right there in the first video but am I good to silicone a spacer on top of the existing PVC closet flange? Would you recommend a 1/4" spacer? Kind of related (plz help) my Mother's bathroom was completely remodeled and the toilet rocks side to side quite a bit. I'd like to see what I can do to fix it, do you think its just loose bolts or could it be that the closet flange is below the top of finish floor also? Can that impact how secure the toilet is? I have seen another video where you were with Sal Diblasi, you guys are awesome! He totally ignored my DM but I expected that :)

[@HomeRepairTutor]

adding a second 1/4" spacer should be fine as long as it's done correctly and the old wax is cleaned off the existing flange. No toilet should rock side to side. It sounds like they didn't get it to seat properly on the old flange. It'll have to be pulled from the flange and inspected. That toilet will eventually leak at the bowl to flange connection and create an issue. So it's best to remove and inspect. Sal is awesome, he's super busy. If he didn't respond to your DM it's likely because KZbin doesn't do a good job of notifying us of the DM, you get one notification and that's it.

[@JoeFec]

Great stuff, among the clearest out there! I'm wondering how the toilet has behaved? The Vormax a good choice?

[@HomeRepairTutor]

This was done in a rental and the Vornax has been great. No complaints or clogs

[@roan6125]

No washers for the base of the toilet? And how good for the plastic nuts?

[@ben-vf]

Plastic is good. I have had to hacksaw far too many metal bolts/nuts from awkward areas around toilets. Not much fun ...

[@yanize713]

such an informative video. like that new self cleaning technology.lol. great video!

[@rblxminersfiregaming]

HOW long does it take to install the thing?

[@Garga0]

Fresh install is about 10 to 20 minutes based on how lucky you get in finding and placing the things accurately. If replacing an old toilet it can take many many hours. Removing the old toilet, cleaning the place repairing or replacing the flange, fixing all the evils done in the past by the past contractor, takes an enormous amount of time; in my case it took me two days for each toilet replacement which was not installed properly.

[@augustreil]

Good video, but I just don't think it's worth taking a chance to lift and shim because of the wax ring possibly leaking. If you used one of those foam rubber rings, then that would be different. Nice job though and new sub !

[@HomeRepairTutor]

+august thanks, keep in mind that the shim is not that thick. It's common practice to shim a bit, and it should adversely affect the wax

[@hunterfanguy6898]

I prefer Kohler cimarron be cause it hard to clog

[@opentrunk]

I've had a lot of problems with this toilet. The main one is that after flushing the tank is still half full of water, which means a less than good flush. Have you noticed how much water remains in your tank after a flush? I don't know if it's designed to do that or if my flappers are closing to quickly, in which case I wonder how to keep them open longer.

[@urmomlol897]

Ya could just hold the handle longer

[@opentrunk]

@@urmomlol897 I've become an expert on this toilet since 2 yrs ago. I agree holding the handle down seems like the obvious solution but Amer Std told me NO DO NOT hold the handle down because it causes the toilet to lost its prime and it quits working when that happens. Then you have to flush the toilet 6 times in a row to get it primed again. Unreal! Most expensive toilet I ever bought and also the worst toilet i ever bought. Good luck explaining to your guests why the turds are swirling around the bowl instead of going down. Oh and wait, there's more!! The flapper system is not standard, they are custom and expensive and hard to find. Just an all around LEMON.

[@mattanderson3067]

@@opentrunk we just installed one and that's why I'm here...answers. We installed this toilet exactly as instructed by american standard, twice. Primed it with over 100 flushes and still no luck. sometimes theres a good bowl level and sometimes not. one out of every 10 flushes is decent at best. I'm stumped, my plumber is stumped. I'm actually pissed off that I have to remove this expensive toilet and buy another.

[@opentrunk]

@@mattanderson3067 Ok well you didn't really describe exactly what's going on with yours and it sounds like it might be a different problem than what I have but here's what I know. Amer Std told me the tank is designed to always have approx half a tank of water remaining in it after a flush. Sounds like the world's dumbest design to me but whatever. If you hold the handle down in order to completely empty the tank, that's how you cause the toilet to lose prime. Meaning the toilet pipe is filled with air instead of water. This is what causes the next flushes to simply swirl round & round and nothing goes down. The way to fix this is to flush the toilet 5 or 6 times WITHOUT holding the handle down. Now you're back to square one which is a toilet that sort of works ok but not that great. The best solution I've found is this: I hold the handle down for maybe 2-3 seconds when flushing, long enough to get more water out of the tank BUT NOT long enough to drain the entire tank. Of course if you have guests using the toilet, they won't know any of this, so that's a problem. Good luck!

[@mattanderson3067]

@@opentrunk Same problems you described I just added some observations as well. e.g the bowl level is different every time. The bowl level should be the same for every flush. The "priming" thing is stupid because it doesn't make it work as described. Like you said the only for sure way is to hold down the trip lever and fully evacuate the tank. I have played around with "timing" on the flush but again that's stupid, we shouldn't have to do that on a brand new toilet and I definitely shouldn't have to hold a training seminar for my family and friends, to teach them how to operate the toilet. It's pretty ridiculous. It'll be removed tomorrow and I'll go to lowes and buy a Kohler Cimarron and be done with it.

[@esthersenior1950]

is that toilet elongated. is that good

[@HomeRepairTutor]

+Esther Senior it is elongated, which is fine 👍

[@MrConradF]

I think most men would prefer an elongated bowl, you know.. more room...

[@sweetooth08]

My Vormax failed 2 years later. Water started to leak into the toilet. I had to replace all the internal parts. :(

[@HomeRepairTutor]

sorry to hear that Fausto, I'm very surprised. That said, I also feel your pain. We have hard water and that corrodes the inside of our toilets and our faucet cartridges.

[@sweetooth08]

That might be the reason. But you would figure American Standard would have some kind of preventative for this problem.

[@trevcessna1723]

Great video, thanks!.. but the music is annoying!!

[@HomeRepairTutor]

Thanks, we’ve don’t use music anymore

[@lananh6236]

Awesome

[@walione1000]

feels good

[@elgordoespino]

What about the nuts you used to secure the flange extension, don’t you take those out after the silicone cures?

[@jackinthebox556]

Yes you would . And put them back on after installing a new toilet .

[@Garga0]

Very nice presentation of a very good toilet. Even with an intelligent looking face and very good voice it makes 10 minutes go like a breeze. Love it.

[@prabhakarY]

Why do you have to close the toilet seat slowly

[@pegymnastics2023]

Me and my sister made a really cool video about too. Its so easy 2 little girls can do it!

[@sigsauer5620]

Where is the 15" min to the wall? In a room this small you should have used a corner toilet unit. This would only be good for someone without a right arm. And he would complain too.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

Totally understand Sig but this house is over 100 years old and we are on a budget. In an ideal world we'd totally try and change the configuration. But we operate in reality with limited funds.

[@fraudsarentfriends4717]

I hate toilets that aren’t centered between or installed too close to walls.

[@calldeltosell]

Nope, nope nope ... You level (if you have an old less than acceptable floor) BEFORE you put the wax ring on. THEN (if wedges are needed) with the levels in place - put a Johni-ring (reinforced with alignment sleeve (i.e. "horn")) and throw that ring that shipped with the toilet. If you have less than 1/4" flange, use a jumbo Johni-ring. I bet it leakes.

[@tajooneinc2981]

Code is 15" from the center of the bowl to the wall.....this would not pass inspection

[@HomeRepairTutor]

It likely is grandfathered, the House is 100 years old, so unless the borough pays to slide the waste stack over it’s not happening. One needs a realistic perspective on old homes and understanding of budget/real-world restraints

[@wrightthinker7918]

So did the city inspector ever come over to approve your new toilet that does not meet code? 15" min. to the wall or cabinet is the rule everywhere I have been. You had a leak below, so I assume you needed to do a ceiling repair and you didn't even re-position that drain to center the toilet in that little space...I guess its just for skinny people or people who don't mind sitting sideways on the toilet.

[@dean3583]

12" is standard for years, what city sets 15" as code?

[@trevcessna1723]

Hey isn't it funny how some people are so predictable, this guy should be watching weight loss videos instead!!

[@MrHemi4spd]

@@dean3583 they are referring from side to side. Not flange to rear wall

[@Thermalcleancarpetcare]

The Vormax is a great toilet. American Standard is the standard is toilets.

[@adrianclark6829]

My toilet failed after 13 months. Flapper not sealing and water running intermittently all night. Have ordered another from AS (Lowed do not have them in stock)

[@masonwigand]

But it is the same features used in Kolher toilets

[@HomeRepairTutor]

Little different based on toilet type

[@meatball6870]

Enough American standard adverts…sheesh

[@kriscris70]

every go here for more details

[@GTsuji]

Way too complicated for a residential toilet. Who ever heard of priming a toilet whatever that means?

[@SO-kh4le]

This toilet garbage complete garbage have them in my bathrooms the flappers they don't last a couple of months ,and then to replace them is a lot of money too many moving parts stay away looks cool that the water goes around the rim that's about it but you get the rust that comes down where that water comes out a dark Brown rust streak and it's very difficult to clean spend your money on something else you'll be very sorry if you buy this

[@HomeRepairTutor]

We haven’t had any issues after two years, water hardness plays a big role in degradation of the toilet

[@stephenh1616]

Terrible design. Cistern isn't even fixed to the wall.

[@Amandalameche]

Hate American Standard