Do Cheap Amazon 1kW grid tie inverters Put out 1000 Watts?

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[@MrFrance97]

First time viewer... you're using hover board batteries...absolutely brilliant

[@TGKProductions358]

You had me at the tesla vw bus

[@Electronzap]

Good tests. It would be nice to have an individual inverter that is powered by batteries which were recharged with solar to join in right when an appliance starts using the amount of power that inverter provides.

[@whoogoesthere]

You had me at Tesla battery powered VW bus! ~Here take my money~

[@erikkovacs3097]

That "ramping" was the MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) circuit. Since you are pulling from a battery pack that can easily supply 1000watts it just maxes out the inverter. If it was a 220watt solar panel it would ramp up the load until the wattage maxes out using something called "Perturb and Observe" where it increases current load and observes the wattage. If wattage increases it increases the current. If wattage decreases it backs off. It does this in little steps all day long.

[@marktheunitedstatescitezen185]

Thanks

[@nielsdaemen]

Would be nice if the output power of the inverter could be controlled via some interface

[@heroesandzeros7802]

I use my 1000W inverters (2) every day between 12PM and 4PM. They only have an output when they sense 120V, so I use Alexa plugs and program them to turn the inverters on and off. The inverters start out at about 5-6Amps and taper back sometimes to less than 1A depending on how long they have been running. They do NOT put out the same AC amperage consistently. They take about 16A from the batteries/solar array each to give you 1-5A at 120VAC. Solar Panel output is never consistent, if the panels are putting out 8A then the other 8A is coming from the battery. They also trip 30A breakers daily, so I am now using 50A breakers. I have 4 identical lead-acid batteries in series/parallel (2 sets of 2) for 24V. These batteries charge from sunrise to 12PM and again from sunset to sundown from the solar arrays. I have 1800W of solar at 25VDC on this setup and a control relay that shuts both inverters down if the batteries are less than 12V each using an Eco-Worthy Charge Controller to monitor and control the relay. There is no PV input to this Charge Controller. When both GTI Inverters are running at the same time, they seem to start out doubling the output, then both end up declining in amperage. I only get 12A at 120VAC for a very short time, then it is up and down. You can watch the panel and inverter output amps go up and down based on a cloud passing by. This setup gives me about 2-12A at 120VAC for about 4 hours per day. I could go longer if I wanted to run my batteries down, but I don't. I like to keep my batteries between 12VDC and 13.8VDC (just like a car does) and run the system only when the solar arrays will power the inverters. It should lower my bill. I do have another separate array to supply power to an upright freezer and refrigerator. Again only running for about 4 hours per day. I also use an Alexa Smart Switch to turn this on and off on a schedule. I have a relay that reconnects the grid power automatically if I lose solar. Being on schedules like this is fine, but you have to still watch for cloudy days and shut them off manually or you will only be running on batteries. I will work on that to automate it also. I have designed a device to drop out panels if the total current goes above 30A so that I can over-panel for more power at sunrise and sunset. If the total current drops too far it adds the panels back in.

[@Willeexd1337]

For all people you need to check the how frequency looks like(sine, square wave, modified sine wave...) and the HZ, If you want it to be the same as the house it should be Pure Sine Wave 60hz in US and 50hz in EU and that before you buy an inverter. Im a new subscriber and i wonder does that power wall power your entire house? Because if so i wonder how that tiny extension cord carries all that power

[@jehugarcia]

Do you think 1kw can power an entire home?

[@Willeexd1337]

jehugarcia no its far away i was just wondering if you had like a few inverters to power your house during a power out im sorry for not explaining well

[@mghuertas]

Hi jehu from PR your meter can run backwards. If your answer is not net metering it can lower the bill anyway

[@jehugarcia]

I don’t get it

[@makingdifference4498]

I just wanna ask sit. That micro inverter have limitter. 🤔

[@John-gm8ty]

those things are completely illegal in Australia, at least until they upgrade the entire grid to manage the feed in. you can only use an islanded inverter.

[@jehugarcia]

lol

Ok, i just bought it 2 hours ago, and i never even searched or saw it before, and now google suggest me this video? This is scary :D Nonetheless i am glad i saw video and i know what can i expect of it

[@mrbuzzsaw9340]

eLeCtRaSh TV take it back lol it might last 3 years

[@Bergwacht]

i have the 1000w version and it puts only out 328 watts. it is connected to 2x 375 Watts Panels, at least 500 watts must come out.

[@Wrensspeedshop]

Same issue I’m having. Curious when I see people test these online and it’s like they’re working perfect, but whenever I’m running over 1400 Watts to one of these thousand converters I can’t get the damn thing to go over 560 Watts??? IDK

[@Bergwacht]

@@Wrensspeedshop Many of these devices are scams. Someone took a 600w converter and turned it into a 1000w converter by simply re-sticking the sticker. The golden one I had came to 816w and the syllable only to 328. If the watt numbers fluctuate a bit and it doesn't get any more then not enough comes out of the panels or the converter is damn inefficient. If the wattage stays at a very specific number and always stays the same, then the limit of the converter has been reached. By the way, both of mine broke after 3 weeks.

[@ryanhamstra49]

Is this like a computer where if it was better cooled it would run at 1000 watts longer??

[@12svaner]

Just bought an Inverter 2500w 240v garantied to put ouit 2000W $208 AU$

[@GoldTales]

Thank you very much for testing this. I've been considering a small solar setup to offset some of my current power costs and was curious to see one in action. A lot of my load is borderline resistive, or continual load such as laptops and A/C (I live far north so I just use a small ~ 1/2 ton A/C unit) and so solar with grid tie would be ideal to offset that cost. I needed to see exactly how this unit functioned under load and such and you showed every stat I needed to know. Thanks!

[@pigeon3036]

I dont like my inverter with a lead acid battery and a solar panel setup, because i use 220v and we need a lot more current to get stuff running on 220v instead of 120v

[@jehugarcia]

Exactly the opposite, you need half the current on 220 vs 120

[@pigeon3036]

@@jehugarcia oh thx for info i tought we need more but its nice to know more🙃 im still learning electronics.

[@adventurious1234]

Nice....

[@smithwill9952]

I LOVE YOUR CHANNEL. Inspirational Design.

[@grahamjones6712]

Are these things saftey complaint and shut off in a powercut so you dont go electricuting some electric worker trying too fix the power. And can you still use it too power your house in a power cut as long as you turn your mains switch in your consumer unit?

[@youmakeitreal]

Videos like these are why I am a patreon! Excellent!

[@Kc8qdq]

How did it work out I am planning on doing the exact same thing you are. I am going to to use 2x1300 watt 220 inverters and forklift battery with 3800watts of solar

[@sophocha]

I have a 600w version of this and I noticed that it was interfering with all my internet powerline adapters. It was making the internet connection unstable. I ended up replacing the powerline adapters with ethernet connections. So far so good. No devices blowing up. I even have a 3 phase 5kw inverter in sync with this with no issues so far.

[@johnschneider931]

Powerline internet can't go across a transformer that will change voltage. Also they depend on a sine wave filter, if your inverter is under load and is not a pure sine wave than your data will be corrupted. You might find that a couple of large capacitors will buffer and allow you to use that equipment again.

[@sophocha]

@@johnschneider931 Funny enough, it has blown the capacitors inside my Tenda powerline which is very close to the 600w china made inverter....so I guess these are not pure sine inverters after all so be careful people.

[@Wrensspeedshop]

What size panels are you running to either of your two units? Do you find that you’re running more voltage/panels in excess of what the wattage says in order to try to even come close to that Wattage? Example, 3 panels 300 watts each which is 900 watts feeding the 600 watt Inverter to get it to produce the 600 watts or close to it?

[@peterjoseph2803]

Hi there ...so the part @ 7:27time line is running of a 12.7 volt battery inverter 10DC minimum and you have 1000w....no problem? I ask you this because of the inverter diagram 10DC version wants a minimum 18volt and not to run of the load side of charge controler. ?? What's your take on this.! Love the electric VW ROCK ON!! ( IRELAND )

[@uncle.matts.ebikes]

Only good review I've ever seen about this inverter and I bet I've read over 100..

[@jehugarcia]

Not exactly a comprehensive review here

[@juraganapi]

input are from battery.. is possible to control how much watt sent to that inverter.. i want to trick my Grid Tie Inverter which have no limiter :)

[@ralger]

I bought the exact same inverter the 12 volt input inverter but it blows a 100 amp DC circuit breaker within two minutes of connection to my single 12 volt AGM 76 AH battery ? I thought 100 amp breaker would do the job ?

[@sam_8a]

Use super capacitor for startup

[@JD_Mortal]

So, in the process of conversion, at your input voltage, it's losing about 20-25% of the input. Or it's output is about 75% of the input. I am curious if it is more efficient when feeding it a higher input voltage. The ones I see listed can accept up to 50vdc. At 36vdc, it has to boost it higher. In any event, if the losses are about 300watts between input and output, that is a fancy 300watt heater. Use three of them and you have to expell nearly 1000 watts of heat. That is great for winter, to add direct heat into your house, but horrible in winter, where that heat has to be expelled outside. (Thus, it will be replaced with hot outside air, being drawn in to the place you mount the inverters.) It seems to be using the heat generated as the "output restriction". If you ran these in the winter, they might stay a constant 1000w output and possibly have lower losses or draw from the input side. Being 75% efficient is nothing to brag about. You have to buy 25% more solar cells and inverters, to get the desired output. If you add the 75% efficiency of charging... Then you actually need 50% to 65% more solar cells and batteries and battery chargers too. It's worth paying 4x more for a 98% efficient inverter that operates at a higher input voltage and would handle all 3000watts without losing nearly 1000watts in the process. Getting an output of 3000watts, but consuming 1000watts, for a total of 4000watts of input, with 1000watts having to be disposed of, as heat, is quite bad.

[@ElectroIoT]

You are always best provide information about lithium battery I need guide I want to make diy battery pack 3s battery 18650 11.1v or 12v How to.make it charge cheep way any charger or charging module u advice any diy module buy from AliExpress ebuy etc plz plz plz advise

[@peternesic959]

Your my inspiration. I want to get to the point where I don’t exactly know how many lithium batteries I plugged in to my inverter 😁

[@ekiskaliburnirvana9047]

What goes inside comes outside.

[@R2000x]

I have the 10 to 30 volt 1000w version running with 10 100w solar pannels no batteries and it cut my light bill in halve. Has been running for 10 month with no problems. If I have to replace once a year for $100 it is still worth it to me. I also have a $80 600w inverter on 36v hover board batteries that I run at night. I charge them with 2 230w 24v solar panels. Running for 6 months no problem. It dropped my light bill even further. These things work great! They are stackable so at times I run both of them at the same time.

[@nightmareinaction629]

Ruben Salazar ummm hard to believe the power company did not come knocking at your door

[@R2000x]

I thought the same thing.They haven't yet. I also thought the meter would charge for energy going out but no. If they ever show up all I have to do is unplug inverter from the socket. Believe it or not!

[@nightmareinaction629]

Ruben Salazar lol what state are you on I'm in california and there is rarely any clouds so I was thinking of just connecting an inverter disconnecting my room from the grid key room is like a shead because its separated from the house garage size and having an inverter act as the grid and my grid tie powering the ac with solar

[@R2000x]

I'm in Texas. Sounds cool. Before my 600w grid tie inverter I was running my kitchen and living room with a 900w non grid tie inverter. I isolated from grid by flipping circuit breaker.

[@JeffsTravels]

Excellent power analysis.

[@nightmareinaction629]

Watching this video 3rd time now idk I just like it because I'm thinking of buying this inverter this week

[@mrbuzzsaw9340]

nightmare in action don't

[@meelo373]

Can you plug this inverter into any outlet in your house?

[@jehugarcia]

Yes as long as it’s 120vac and not a 240vac one

[@DaveAuld]

3:21 ant makes a visit on the top left of the inverter.

[@solar24gr]

Unfortunately this inverters will burn about 3 or 4 months maybe 6 months! Over heating problem! To avoid danage you must modified cooling fanction!This inverters start cooling by fans over +60-70 celsius! That inverters need install thermostat switch N.O. 40 celius stick on transformer+ dc-dc stepdown board 40V connected to fans,fans will start cooling from 40 celsius and you will avoid the overheating damage.I am technitian.

[@Ebiczebulanious]

Only use a pure sine wave inverter. You're pulling too much current off those batteries they won't last long.

[@jehugarcia]

The ignorance is strong on this one

[@brettmcconnell8040]

1000W Solar Panels on Grid Tie Inverter GTIL2 & Limiter for Home PV Battery Connected there a 3 models 25v-60v/45v-90v and 2000watt version more expensive but better built i have both 25v-60v and 45v-90v looking at building own power walls for these systems.

[@grantnlee]

Happened to notice at about 5:30 when the fan was on and things were a bit stabilized... the DC was feeding about 1140W into the inverter and the output to the grid was about 960W.... That's about 16% energy losses, which is what is making the inverter heat up quickly. I wonder if a pricier inverter is more energy efficient and how much usage would warrant paying for the more expensive (presumably more efficient) inverter?

[@cleandiaper]

That whole setup is a FIRE waiting to happen. Exposed wires poking through a whole. At 9:18, you're using a wire size that's not rated to carry 59 amps.

[@onlywenilaugh6589]

My utility doesn't allow putting these small inverters on the grid. They only have a certain number of larger approved one or solar approved and they can detect if you are feeding back in with their smart meter and then see if you have gotten approval and if not, you will get a letter in the mail...

[@JohnBoen]

The power company is not going to waste their time tracking all these people down, and threatening them with cut off. They hope you will just not try... And if they do cut you off, find an attorney and get a class action law suit together.

[@onlywenilaugh6589]

@@JohnBoen Oh they do, I've already read a few times where they have in my city. They don't want their linemen killed by cheap inverters that fail to turn off when power is out.

[@DrFruikenstein]

Just a dumb truck driver here... Twenty years ago, Pilot truck stops had a deal where they were, as they advertised it, selling a 1Kw inverter, and giving away a free microwave oven. The pricing, at the time, was evidence of the reverse. Twenty years later, the inverter is still doing its job, and the microwave is long dead. Unfortunately, my inverter only has a modified sine wave output (probably why the microwave died), so I have to be careful with what I plug into it... But, it'll also surge to double its continuous rating for an observed five minutes. Perfect for power tools! (Unless you're Tool Time Tim) During a couple power outages, I have run a double male drop cord from the truck to the kitchen, and kept the fridge cool. At my house, this is easy as there's a outdoor outlet on the kitchen circuit. Just cut the kitchen circuit breaker to isolate it, plug in the drop cord, and it's on. It's good for the fridge, clock, and a few lights. Optimized Idle (Automatic engine start and stop to maintain truck interior climate and battery) automatically keeps the truck's batteries charged, so it's a "No Worries" type of thing when done right.

[@LatinDanceVideos]

DrFruikenstein I like the innovative thinking to keep the fridge running. The double male cord and circuit isolation is a sneaky solution to keep things running. Def want to keep that cord safely stowed. Pity there isn't a cheap readily available legit solution on the market. There are auto power switchovers made for Gen to mains switching but they aren't cheap.

[@DrFruikenstein]

Another trick... UPS... Those "Un-interruptible" power backup supplies for computers. They work for lamps, stereos, clocks, TVs, and many other things as well. They're also cheap, if you know what you're doing... People don't know that the batteries are replaceable, so they toss them out as soon as they fail. Find one that someone gave up on, and go to Wal-Mart to get a replacement gell-cell lead acid battery. Or step up the game, and put together a small LiFePo4 battery pack for it to get a bit more capacity.

[@Bob_Lob_Law]

DrFruikenstein The more energy dense Li-ion groupings of chemistrys, usually in the 18650 format can be used for 24v or 48v systems due to their similar charge and discharge voltages in lead acid denominations of 12s and lion of 7s.

[@DrFruikenstein]

Bob Lob Law When replacing lead acid with lithium type cells, I've found that LiFePo4 cells are much more forgiving than the other lithium types. Especially when being constantly charged in a UPS system. With the other lithium chemistries, I've noticed some overheating issues when connected lead acid type charging systems.

[@rogerkerkmann]

I think a lot of people are forgetting the older low frequency inverters have a transformer, and heavy, but have triple surge rating, my two cents :-)

[@ravemind8433]

I used one of these as a test unit before moving to a fancier version that monitors the AC usage in your house and then turns itself down when the power isn't needed. To avoid back feeding into your meter. I'm using it to offset the usage of my pool pump. Similar to what you want to do with your AC. It's still a made in China thing but it has more advanced features and an lcd screen. I believe it also has protection so that it will turn itself off before draining your battery completely. I am running mine from panels so I haven't used that feature.

[@lazyh-online4839]

I know this is an old comment but can you share which one you have, a search of eBay/aliexpress and the like haven't turned up anything yet.

[@aedgvv6095]

whats the easiest way to record that kwh output to a computer? is there a cheap monitor that works standaloone without any stupid app

[@randysmith7094]

I have the same 1000W inverter. It worked good for 5 months and then died. 2 RF MOSFETS fried to bits, 4 DC caps toasted golden brown... and something else because it is dead to the world. Not even any red error light comes on...

[@jeremiahl2552]

I love your 18650 multicell replacement solution. Exchangeable bricks.

[@Paul-gz5dp]

That 59amps I would probably use 4awg, or better yet 2 #10 in parallel as it is easier to get. The bigger the wire the less your losses in heat and voltage drop. The extra cost of the wire quickly makes up for the cost over time.

[@lifeforceknowledge]

with my supercar system you would be able to use 100watt constant and transform it into 1000w on cycles every 10minutes.or 10 000 watts output up to 100 000w

[@johnschneider931]

I am confused, explain how a 1kw inverter can power a 6kw AC even if you give a generous allowance for peak kw rating of say 2.5 kw. Que the fuse burning or copper melting.

[@jehugarcia]

It powers 1/6th of it

[@JD_Mortal]

It's funny how they fake the efficiency numbers by saying the mppt is 99% efficient... But the converter is clearly only 75% efficient itself.

[@trickyriky1]

Pleasantly surprised, honestly did not expect them to actually output the full KW. More likely to invest in 1 now :)

[@nosafetyswitch9378]

achieving 1kW is easy. Doing it efficiently isnt and that inverter certainly is not efficient...

[@trickyriky1]

None of them are, i stand by my comment...

[@trickyriky1]

No dispute there, i learned the hard way about driving cheap chinese tech at its rating. If i buy one, it would only be loaded to 500 watts, and would be switched with relays only when by batteries are full :)

[@trickyriky1]

Haha i know mate, i don't actually use a chinese inverter (seen way too many bad reviews). I'm actually using an old UPS as my inverter at the moment which i can get 93% efficiency out of. I am only really powering my server and desktop pc from the system at the moment, but its pretty reliable especially considering i live across the pond in the normally cold dark and wet uk. This abnormal weather is a welcome break from the norm. :)

[@trickyriky1]

doh APC inverters are the muts mate, but you want the 1500 and above for true sine apparently. :)

[@suarnet]

Great video, Kindly to provide wiring diagram of watt meter, Thank you

[@MrSkinny602]

I had two similar units running my solar. They lasted about 6 months to a year. The mosfet's burned up first. I was able to fix the issue once or twice. After that I couldn't diagnose the problem and gave up on the unit. I was considering a much nicer unit but never pulled the trigger.

[@tony001212]

you just needed to replace the mosfets by mosfets with a higher current tolerance and run them bellow 1 kw, no good idea to run them at their peak.

[@perryingto]

Good to see the pups

[@chuckjordan6455]

you could add super-caps so that the Amps don't spike up before settling.

[@proyectosledar]

Hi. I have a 300w version and a 100w solar panel. Works realy well

[@pablobalart7422]

Proyectos LED Gastón , que hacés por acá jajaja me compré un panel de 150 w por mirar tus vídeos. Abrazo

[@ArielCocha]

Hola Gastón!! Jaja también por tu culpa adquirí un inverter y dos paneles. Saludos a la comunidad de Proyectos LED!

[@justincampbell2162]

Have u has any troubles with urs

[@owenaquilina5001]

is it still good and running without any problems?

[@MStrickkk]

When you're feeling for temp on the battery pulling almost 60 amps towards the end, you missed a vital spot. The connection usually melts first. Touch that first to test for temperature.

[@thetinker3924]

the inverter will not pull 60 amps unless its shorted

[@luongmaihunggia]

Wrong. The part with the least mass, the highest electrical resistance and the least cooling is the part that melt first. Which is not the connector because it neither have the least cooling or the highest electrical resistance.

[@oldtimeengineer26]

It will burn up running at max in a short time. I use a boost converter and set the max amps to keep the inverter from hitting a max 1000w. On my 48v system I use a buck converter to do the same thing

[@Wrensspeedshop]

What device are you using? Thank you

[@mikeriverajr4447]

so if were to use one tof these with out going thru all the "CODE/PERMIT" crap what the electric company say . . would they even be aware that i was back feeding?

[@craftxbox]

Yes. The electrical company can track you through your power meter.

[@mikeriverajr4447]

@@craftxbox i guess the real question is do they care???? there are so many people doing this including jehu, plus its free electricity for them. . .

[@igounfazed]

Holy inverters Jehu-man.... I was just looking at these inverters yesterday, and today this!

[@maxpert9]

Them cookies is always watching you

[@jimrojas62]

I run all mine at 50-75 percent rated input. This can be be done with a dc to dc regulator. Do yourself a favor and add an external fan or 2, and wire it to the internal fan circuit.

[@Wrensspeedshop]

I’ve got one of those grid time inverters and have four 300 Watt panels hooked to it and even then the middle of the day with the East Texas direct sun I cannot get that inverter to produce over roughly 540 -560 watts. Have you by chance tested the voltage of the two leads that you have connected to the inverter prior to connecting them? The reason I ask is because before I connect mine the voltage coming through the cables shows roughly 39 1/2 Volt, but as soon as I connect it to the inverter and the inverter starts running or is turned off and I put my voltage meter on both of the leads it’s reading in the mid 27 Volt range. I have no clue what’s going on or why that would be, any thoughts? Nobody has

[@musicinspire1745]

Short runs of cable can handle quite a bit more than its rated amperage. I run 140 amps through 4 gauge cable all the time for heating elements as long as they don't get over five feet long or so.

[@marktheunitedstatescitezen185]

I’ll be setting 1 of these inverters I’ve got on 2 Yellow top Optima Dry cell batteries in parallel it’s only for my sump pump in case we lose electricity you know and I’ve got besides that 14 PCs 3.2v 280A & 6 PCs 3.2v 200A 😉

[@Steppenkater]

Funny how you were checking the temperature of everything but the connector which is the part that will most likely heat up and potentially melt... :)

[@christianvega1204]

Can you do a video of making a transfer switch for your powerwalls, so we dont have to worry about this feeding the grid when power is out?

[@SAHILKHAN-lu8oq]

Grid tie inverters won't feed the grid when power is out. They actually need the grid supply present to Operate..... i.e. it senses the presence of grid supply, then it turns on....

[@SAHILKHAN-lu8oq]

That means, when grid has supply, it feeds the grid. And when grid has no power, it just shuts off.

[@emmanuelniedo4481]

@@SAHILKHAN-lu8oq without the grid during power outage im using pure sine wave inverter from battery as grid my battery 20ah last the whole day using my grid tie..(load depends on inverter capacity)

[@jakedjo]

How would you use the grid tie inverter with the solar array and have it switch between charging the batteries and giving to the grid?

[@alericjohansen6775]

Jake Stephens I have wondered something similar. I want a system where I can plug into "shore power" and it charge my batteries, and once the batteries are full it sends the extra power to the grid, but I don't know what units can do a shore power thing and grid tie while being off grid. So, it's similar, but.... Different. There is an inverter generator by renogy that plugs into the grid to charge the batteries, but I don't know if it sends the extra power to the grid once the batteries are full or not. www.renogy.com/renogy-2000w-pure-sine-wave-inverter-charger/

[@ScubaJamaica]

I would have placed a 25A current limiter on the input side of the GTI. They are not designed to run from battery inputs (unlimited input current), they are meant to run from Solar only with has a max input current.

[@mrhypno1984]

I love those AC meters! I have 1 on my transfer wiring to my breaker panel. They work great and are easy to read!

[@DiyEcoProjects]

*Dear Readers:* Just to let you know, if you want to power electronics like phones, laptop, cameras ect from 12v leisure battery ... buy a "pure wave" not a "square wave" inverter. Electronics hate square wave, its too choppy. Your equipment will die. Just to be clear: 12v battery + pure wave inverter + 4 gang extension + electronic devices can plug directly into extension Battery banks are totally fine. 12v battery + square wave inverter + 4 gang extension + plugging in a battery charger and charging your devices batteries for use later. ... so if you where on a video job, charging separate batteries on a square wave is ok. Hook it up to your car or solar charge controller. But you wouldnt be able to power the video camera from it live. For that youd need a pure wave version. Jehugarcia's video is a pure wave ~ one

[@TecSanento]

When you're talking about charging your laptop or Smartphone its a bad idea to convert to 120V at all. You only need a car charger to do so... Much more efficient

[@csleeut]

Can you remote trigger the inverter to turn on only when the AC is running?

[@AnthonyCelata]

did anyone else see the bug at 2 mins...

[@3dMb_1968]

Hi - I'm running two 120cell 32Vmp 7.92Imp 256W panels in parallel with African sun power into the 20-45V to 230Vac model but the best grid power I've monitored so far is 350W (ac). Very disappointed but hoping somebody can help. Input Voltage and current are well within spec but the units just don't generate anywhere near the power they should. The panels do deliver 500W with an ePever 3210AN MPPT controller. I can only think the Grid tie MPPT software is terrible.

[@jt92]

@jehugarcia you might wanna look into getting an inverter AC, they're much more efficient and don't have that huge power spike and ramping down duty cycle.

[@jehugarcia]

I don’t understand

[@solarhope]

I have been using 9 of the smaller GTI on a solar installation for years, they work great.I would say that I always apply the AC supply before the DC when powering up, and disconnect the DC before the AC when powering down. (I did blow a few MOSFET's early on)Also for running 1000 watts continuous it would be safer with 2 working in parallel.

[@mikeriverajr4447]

so if were to use one tof these with out going thru all the "CODE/PERMIT" crap what would the electric company say? . . would they even be aware that i was back feeding? Since there is no bi directional meter on the electric ones?

[@lazyh-online4839]

@@mikeriverajr4447 I think it depends on the company in general, some do it automatically and won't care others require you set up special billing with them to track how much you feed back.

[@benparkin3191]

In typical grid tie on day the ac will go out… and the device will have to endure a DC then AC startup.. I’ve never had a problem with my GTI during that type of condition.

[@solarhope]

@@benparkin3191 I think this may have been a problem with the older cheap GTI,s. I did have a few problems early on, and rightly or wrongly assumed it was the way the device was powering up. Over the last few years I came to the same conclusions as you, power the DC first then AC. I still have a few of the smaller GTI's (350W) in a cupboard that need fixing :-(

[@6sensory]

JG Id love to see your design for completing this idea. I want to accomplish the same "covering the load of the a/c". Subscribed.

[@sammyd7857]

It depends on the ambient temperature. And who wants to have all that noise inside

[@carvaopedra]

Hi, good morning, I have a question, does this 1000 Watt inverter support 4 solar panels of 275 W?

[@Im_The_Slep]

When theses things plug into the wall outlet, isn’t it a problem for these inverters to pump electricity back through those home lines? I’m mostly concerned if the outlet won’t be able to take the current.

[@jehugarcia]

It’s a 1500w rated outlet, why would it have trouble taking 1000w

[@Im_The_Slep]

@@jehugarcia would you recommend these inverters for a small 2kw setup?

[@michaelobermaier3890]

I have the same device and i am very happy with it 😆

[@aedgvv6095]

where can i buy those DC meters u have amazon are not available.. godo video

[@RogerWilco73]

Wait... 1200 watts in, 1000 watts out... On eBay it says, and I quote, GREATER THAN 97.5% EFFICIENT. By my math that's about 83% efficient. Are you telling me the efficiency claims aren't exactly true! SAY IT ISN'T SO!!! No wonder everywhere I read says these things get so hot. That's almost 200 watts of power being converted directly into heat. With that being said... I'm still going to buy one and only run it at half it's rated output. Why? Because they are just so dang affordable! I'll stick a couple of small desktop computer fans on it and call it done!

[@thebeststooge]

Word to the wise but please open that up and make sure all mosfets are firmly tightened down AND actually has the thermal pad/paste between each one. Common thing is they are loose, barely tight, and/or do not have the thermal pad/paste and POOF/POP dead.

[@mrbuzzsaw9340]

The Best Stooge my man knowing what's up yee

[@maxpert9]

Just happened to me and couldn’t figure out what caused it. Thank you

[@thebeststooge]

@@maxpert9 You are welcome as I know the feeling.

[@vermontsmostobesetubaplaye1988]

@@thebeststooge what are MOSFETs?

[@thebeststooge]

@@vermontsmostobesetubaplaye1988 In this case those three legged black things that are attached to the sides of the aluminum chassis.

[@chibanix1347]

super video what a bout those capacitors battery it lay be a good choise as they can give a lot in a short time just for the ac start

[@samuelshevels9339]

You should get a Samsung 8 pole air-conditioning they use less electricity

[@CriticoolHit]

The polling rate of the volt meter with the music had me.

[@MissAdventures]

Great video as always, I am concerned about your extension cord (your power grid). If you had one that had a higher capacity it may protect your home and family better (in my humble opinion, safety first).

[@81husker]

They don't do 1k on solar I've tested them and I think you should compare with aims inverter

[@mrbuzzsaw9340]

William Edis I sell aims cheaper than the manufacturer hmu

[@MatthewTaylorAu]

@@mrbuzzsaw9340 link?

[@sameersmerchant]

Do you need a net metering electric panel for this? What happens to the inverter when the AC is off? Does it go back to the power company?

[@jehugarcia]

im going to turn them off

[@motivationlife381]

I have the exact same model run about a hundred bucks I have loved it but you are correct they do burn out quite quickly when you run it at a thousand Watts

[@motivationlife381]

Keep it at about 600 watts in the last forever

[@jehugarcia]

Been running 2 at 600 for months now

[@motivationlife381]

jehugarcia nice call. It's kind of hard to beat the price for what you get

[@axiom1650]

How do you limit the power if it's connected to a battery bank?

[@jehugarcia]

Not found a way yet,

[@JesseTheTech]

only downfall is it isn't UL compliant and a lot of power companies frown upon that.

[@jehugarcia]

A lot of people frown my brown skin

[@mrbuzzsaw9340]

jehugarcia lol

[@davewalters41]

Good Load Knowledge here.... Where can I buy silicon sheathed copper stranded wire that is silver coated in 10awg?

[@lazyh-online4839]

eBay, radioshack, AliExpress, the numerous online parts stores. Just use Google or open a phone book.

[@iphukkedurmom6827]

I am about to put a 49 volt battery onto a 12 volt inverter is this a good idea?

[@erikkovacs3097]

Better make it a 200volt battery (just to be safe) ;)

[@gregyohngy]

Since your home is using electricity before the AC turns on and the inverter is just below 1000 watts, that means you need more than 5000 watts of inverter power before they are off peak wattage.

[@sydmushas]

Please take it apart and show us the internals please.

[@sydmushas]

Also mount it to a metal plate or use additional heatsinks

[@lv7603]

Can somebody point out the name or part number of the meter at 2:15. Thanks.

[@jontopham2742]

Absolutely don't use that inverter unless it's ul1741 listed those are garbage

[@jehugarcia]

Been using this garbage for months