Building a Blower (DIY dust collector part 2)

[@BillPentz]

Hi this is Bill Pentz. Most of your cyclone and blower are evolved from my designs that I have been refining since 1994. You have done a pretty good job, but there are a few things that you need to consider for safety and ability of people with lesser metal and woodworking skills to be able to build your units. 1) the 1/4" plate is heavy but is the right stuff to use for your impeller base. 1/8" plate will warp all over unless you have a very fine welder and good heat sink. 2) Your noise levels at over 100 dB were not unexpected but can be greatly reduced with a few minor changes. a) You really do need to be using backward inclined blades. If you divide your blower into six equal pie shaped wedges, then you should offset your blades 2.5" from those division lines to create backward inclined blades. Backward inclined and your already backward curved blades make a huge difference in blower noise. b) You also need to sharpen your blower gore point instead of a gradual curved bend and add a second matching gore point on the inside outer portion of your blower to create a noise canceling effect. Sharpening gives you better performance and a level of noise that can be canceled. c) Also, I chose to weld on both sides of my impeller blades. If you just weld on one side, it should be the blade backs to reduce turbulence to also help with noise. 3) Your cyclone and mine are identical except I continue the cylinder up instead of just closing off with the air ramp. Many are poorly copying my design both ways now. The advantage of coming up is you save having to add a duct piece on the front of your blower and can just make a 9" diameter hole. You need that same sized duct coming out of your cyclone if you want optimum separation and airflow for an 18" diameter cyclone. 4) I found bolting the motor directly to the Baltic Birch plywood and using Loc-tite holds up for a while, but eventually vibrations cause the Baltic Birch to fail. I shifted over to using a steel motor mounting plate that I hold in place similar to how you hold your blower intake duct. 5) I found having my blower base and blades laser cut costs little and greatly minimized balancing. Also, I made my base have a tight fit to the compression bushing arbor which reduced runout and made for a smoother less wobbly impeller. 6) I also tried mounting the metal blower sides to the Baltic Birch. Turns out they will eventually develop openings from being banged hard by debris when you forget to empty your collection bin. A better technique is to make the blower larger in diameter, securing with carriage bolts outside of the metal which rests in 1/8" deep grooves in the Baltic Birch. 7) You can buy ducting flanges in the diameter you want that have a flared base and foam insulation making it far easier to install than the complex hole. 8) Many will want to make their cyclone and blower parts from galvanized steel. Galvanized reacts with silicone to break down and lose its seal. You might instead want to use a good gutter sealant. 9) you can take your identical sized blower vanes and move them out on the same sized base to create a larger overhang and 16" total diameter impeller. I found with these 4" tall blades, that is the ideal size to use your motor full capacity without risking burnout from moving too much air. 10) Please don't ever turn on a newly made impeller that is not encaged in a blower housing. One of my buddies started making impellers for me and he had bad welds. A blade broke loose and destroyed the blower housing plus the whole rest of the impeller before I could kill power! Bill Pentz billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/blower.php

[@E_L12]

@BillPentz What exactly do you mean by: 'a second matching gore point on the inside outer portion of your blower' ?

[@luisbarreto7019]

😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

[@BillPentz]

@@E_L12 If you look at the blower housing the outlet has one side that merges into the decreasing blower spiral. On the other side there is a sharp 90+ degree bend. That sharp bend is known by many as the gore point. Much of the blower noise is created when the exiting air hits this sharp bend. If you took a dowel nearly as tall as the outlet sides, cut the dowel in half lengthwise making a half cylinder, and mounted that on a stick where you could slide it in and out on the smooth side of the outlet, you would find a spot where the noise it makes comes close to canceling the noise from the gore point. Between changing the blade angles and installing a second artificial gore point you should cut overall noise to as low as one quarter as much. Gluing neoprene to the blower sides, top and bottom will help even more. If you use insulated ducting for your outlet that will quiet the noise even more. Would you send me an email? [e-mail]

[@Muffinrando]

I know your struggles on the back side, it’s something I go through. glad to see you making progress and getting another build up. Take your time we will wait .

[@Dave5843-d9m]

20 years ago, a chiropractor got me through an L5-S1 disc prolapse. He said I was so close to emergency surgery that he expected to be calling ambulance when I arrived. It was never needed. Results were was so impressive that I did the training. That all said, sacro-iliac joint pain is often diagnosed as disc or sciatic. Chiro is very good with SI joints. Getting them balanced takes load off the discs and facets. Win win.

[@matthewmoilanen787]

​@@Dave5843-d9mMan I wish I had a Dr like that willing to operate with just one ruptured disc. I just had my second surgery to take care of the second disc replacement and L3-5 fused to the already fused L1-2. In addition they removed a 10 mm cist from my spinal cord only to find an SI joint tear. Unfortunately no form of therapy or rehab had any effect so it required fusion as well. It's a miserable thing to go through and I wouldn't wish it on my worst enemy.

[@josuelservin]

I love the the squiggly seal, efficient and good looking!

[@woodsprout]

I like your thinking on the wiggly bits, and love when what looks like decoration is actually functional industrial design.

[@СашаБортнюк]

I'm from Ukraine, I've been watching your work for a long time, I want to thank you for the accuracy, honest attitude to work, I'm a teacher of labor, wood, metal, I'm older than you, but you teach me, THANK YOU!!!! SORRY FOR MY BAD ENGLISH.

[@ВасильПіддубний-ь5ц]

вітаю🇺🇦

[@rebbel67]

I get the same joyous feeling watching you(r videos) as I get watching Lionel Messi playing soccer! For those not in the knowing; one of the best players ever to walk the pitch.

[@Rob-Hannon]

“We don’t know what 3phase is in the US” gave me a good chuckle. Good seeing you on camera again.

[@MichielvanderMeulen]

So nice to see someone with natural feeling for geometry at work. Making smart use of stuff available.

[@Painless61]

Can‘t wait to see the last video … it‘s always a joy to see you working … I like the way you find solutions for the process and the result is outstanding. Thx for sharing

[@AndreLuiz-gk1mf]

My first job in Brazil was to make these snail exhaust fans and air recirculators for gas ovens for curing powder paint.

[@benjaminreinhardt259]

Awesome work. As far as butt welding sheet metal - you want to stack tacks. Tack every 2", then come back and put a tack on each tack. That will move your heat around and minimize distortion. Also prevents blowing holes in the the metal. Other than that, awesome work buddy. Leagues ahead of me.

[@JBLewis]

Ron Covell just posted a video the other day butt welding strips of metal (copper) and finishing them to the point that the welds all but disappear.

[@linctexpilot8337]

I am in my 50's and I have been fabricating things since the late 1970's ... your skills and methods are impressive!!

[@zendesigner]

great use of maths and geometry designing your parts. you're smart in finding solutions

[@awesomearizona-dino]

Yes, the fine kreg screws are excellent for Not splitting. Great work Jer, as usual. Please send rain !!

[@MariusHornberger]

Great build. No doubt, a better blower than my one. I like the idea of bolting the housing to the motor and having the opening for installing the impeller on the bottom. Makes more sense now that I think about it. Do you want to install an inlet screen to protect the blower from large pieces?

[@Jer_Schmidt]

Thanks! I thought the bottom opening for especially made sense since I’ll be connecting the cyclone with a big piece of flex hose. I actually completely forgot about putting a screen in it, I was going to do that. Might add it yet.

[@SudburyDave]

Hopefully as the blower is upstream of the cyclone there should not be any large pieces reaching it

[@12345NoNamesLeft]

@@Jer_Schmidt 1/4" Hardware cloth fencing is good, provides a stiff backer.

[@onjofilms]

I have a Delta 50-179 that has a plastic impeller that all the wood travels through. It has lasted 32 years.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

@@onjofilms Whoa I would not have expected that. 🤯 Good to know!

[@PERSONALEEMG]

Dude, thanks for showing us your process. Have a nice day.

[@ckutzli]

Nice job Jeremy glad your back in the shop again.

[@jimsjacob]

I’ll say it again. Totally amazed with your problem solving/solutions to your build process. Truly impressive!

[@gbalock]

Wow, that Leeson motor is a beast.

[@dkbuilds]

Awesome to see you back Jer, and also awesome to see some build videos being successful on KZbin. The algorithm really beats them down these days. Keep up the awesome work, you're quickly turning into the next Matthias.

[@caigner]

I said it once and I say it again: Continue like this and one day you'll score a job at NASA, building spacecrafts. Absolutely brilliant work.

[@jeffallen3382]

NASA has you grind off any mill scale when welding...

[@bushratbeachbum]

@@jeffallen3382 i doubt they grind it off by hand. Or do you weld for nasa?

[@jeffallen3382]

@@bushratbeachbum it doesn't matter what they use... They don't weld over mill scale! My old buddy use to weld for NASA. Also doesn't matter who you weld for. You weld over mill scale and you will fail any kind of certification testing. Doesn't matter if you're a pipe welder or work for NASA.

[@caigner]

@@jeffallen3382 Jer is young. He will improve over time. No master was born as such. 5% talent and 95% continues training.

[@jeffallen3382]

@@caigner LOL

[@MetalAsFork]

I'm just 13 mins in, and don't really do any work like this, but it's really impressive how resourceful and creative you are with repurposing shop items. Using the drill press stand as a mandrel, or the drill bit as a router guide, testing the screws in the plywood... It's not so much about the specific tips, or how to build this exact item, but the philosophy of being adaptable in completing a task. Fun to watch.

[@stefcampagna2321]

Rocket science :-) Amazing !!! Everything looks easy ... but it's not. The detail is not (never) an option with you !!! Bravo !!!

[@haroldchoate7497]

I’ve missed you on KZbin. It’s great to see you back. I hope to see more of your work as time goes by. Thanks for some interesting, educational videos.

[@Jack-yl7cc]

Normal household Silicone sealer is a bit too soft to stand up to basically being "Sandblasted" for very long but, on the flip side I am sure the same joints would eventually get packed with saw dust anyway so it only has to last long enough for that to happen. For future (re)builds I would recommend some good quality automotive seam sealer like "SEM 29372 Gray Seam Sealer". The nice bonus part about the SEM tubes is that the nozzles screw on, which makes unclogging them or even replacing them entirely so much easier. The downside to SEM sealant is that its too good at being impermeable so it takes some specialized paint to get it to stick to it.

[@Donorcyclist]

Another build that is outstandingly detailed, well thought out, and an excellent example of fine craftsmanship! Great job, Jeremy!

[@TheHermeynator]

Always amazed at the carefulness and attention to detail you put in a project. Awesome video once again!

[@bcspear3428]

A nice little project but sometimes what I find most interesting is the simple and effective way you develop fabrication methods to accomplish the build, Bravo.

[@jameshodgins1937]

Nice job. That impeller should last a lifetime.

[@kancelas]

Glad to see you posting videos again. Welcome back

[@alans1816]

Your cyclone and blower look like they will last forever and work extremely well. They far outclass the ones I made. You can take as much time as you like and I will always be happy to see a new video from you. This was not a long wait.

[@kevinpettigrew4792]

DAMN this KZbin algorithm! I didn't see that you're back! We missed you

[@rubensalazar5651]

So good to have you back mate! Was super happy to see the jer notification

[@vintyprod]

So beautifully designed and executed. that thing’s a piece of art

[@tonysamples840]

GLAD TO SEE YOU BACK TO BUILDING THINGS. I'V ALWAYS ENJOYED SEEING WHAT YOU COME UP WITH NEXT. KEEP IT UP.

[@aceme9514]

I'm a week late, but I'm so excited to see another video by you! ♥

[@hdwoodshop]

Never cease to be impressed by your sound thought process. Amazing engineering and inventor mix. I’d be curious by a financial breakdown of your final assembly.

[@unperrier5998]

Can't wait to see the whole thing assembled.

[@RamsesTorresLifevantageIndDist]

Beautiful design. Glad to see you creating again. For welding thin metal try series of spot welds, cooling with shop air between passes, instead of continuous bead. Very thin gap will allow good penetration. Loved the rabbet detail so sheet metal would be flush and help alignment.

[@latherookie]

Once again you impress us regular thinking guys!

[@TheDistur]

I love watching your jigs and setup work. The real secret sauce.

[@MrVisioo]

You seem a lot happier now. I like your new content even more then I liked the old.

[@rickspencer7998]

Nicely done, Jer. Glad you're back!

[@scottwhite2379]

Great to see more videos in my feed. Glad your doing well. A tip, when butwelding sheet metal, when you can. Support the back with copper. No melt through, traps the gas, and weld won't stick.

[@kvikkenni]

You are one of the best builders on KZbin IMO....i love when you post videos

[@Angus_McGyver]

I really appreciate all the jigs and fixtures you use. Very clever.

[@surfbyrd1]

i really enjoyed watching your thinking process during this project. You're a wonderfully talented and kind man. Thank you!

[@brunofonseca9686]

You're on another level, that's for sure. Kudos from Brazil.

[@tomim7187]

Jer, it's really coming together! Heavy metal is just all right with me! 👍👍

[@Zogg1281]

I love how everyone building something looks at the numbers on their test meters and says something along the lines of "it's using a bit more "

[@Jer_Schmidt]

It’s also very possible that it won’t be fine haha. Cyclones create a LOT of resistance, so I think it’ll be enough to pull the amps down from 24 to 20, but if not, I’ll grind a bit off the ends of the blades.

[@marcvanherck]

As usual magnificent engineering and execution

[@sdcaclint]

Good to see you back. This is a great build. Be well Clint

[@tcarney57]

Nice work, as usual. I think it's cool you're using only clear finishes for both the wood and the steel.

[@BenjaminHCrump]

So glad to see you back - great build as always.

[@richardw3294]

Pure genius. Thanks for letting us into your mind.

[@pscottbx]

Good to see you back

[@mr.ranyhomemade2466]

I know you are always when you make things really pretty and the best quality and perfect work, that I would like your job

[@darkosimic86]

I am just sorry I cannot give two likes to this video! Excellent work!

[@tonyhowe3676]

Excellent work!!! As having been a torque wrench specialist.......you have to hold the torque wrench by the handle.....otherwise you are not achieving the appropriate torque that was set on the torque wrench.

[@wastespark1]

I really love that you are back posting more regularly, I have been watching for years and still drop everything when I see a new video from you! Thanks you for making such great videos

[@simonmaverick9201]

I admire your patience.

[@marceaton3128]

Amazing work Jeremy. Screw what other people think about how you do things.

[@boutellejb]

Each little section is a project of perfection in itself - and then you put them all together into a serious tool! Very impressive work!

[@levi95360]

glad your back been missing ya

[@PoignantPirate]

If you're really concerned about those bolts staying in place, i would consider adding lock wire. It's not a lot of extra effort, but it's a lot of extra insurance.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

I seriously considered it! But I was concerned about the wire sagging, touching the impeller, and throwing a spark. (That’s also the concern of the bolts come loose. Nothing will fall apart right away, but it could start a fire in the filters)

[@bushratbeachbum]

Just threadlock them. Use the red one. It's easy enough to get them out again with a little bit of heat

[@bielanski2493]

​@@Jer_Schmidt There's still tab washers to consider if the problem presents.

[@zskk]

@@Jer_Schmidt man, nordlocks!

[@lemagreengreen]

Impressive jig wizardry, looks like you've built something very high quality.

[@arcrad]

This is such a clean build. Very well done. 👏 I love the look of the wiggly sections. Form from function at its finest!

[@thanhnhanhuynhnguyen3652]

Im working on building my own dust collector, this is exactly what I need! Thank you!

[@bradleytuckwell4881]

Your skill level and attention to detail is phenomenal. I’m looking forward to seeing the fun part when you put it all together.

[@millsbrian55]

Amazing build quality! So glad to have you back making content.

[@totterdell91]

absolutely excellent. I am about 1/2 way through a similar project. I've built the 18" pentz style cyclone, mig welded from 1.0mm sheet. I am using 4mm backing plate with 3mm fins on the impeller to fit to a 4hp 3ph teco motor, controlled with a 7.5Kw (capacity) VFD & thus controlling both startup current and maximum current under load. I'll be using a plasma cutter with a circle jig to cut the backing plate. Absolutely love the idea of using the belt grinder to refine the fin shape & get it consistent, as well as true the backing plate.

[@Jer_Schmidt]

Sounds awesome! I like the idea of using a VFD to tune the CFM & keep the motor properly loaded when connected to different tools. I had already bought this motor before I realized the potential of that.

[@totterdell91]

@@Jer_Schmidt I probably should have mentioned I will be using a single phase 240v supply. The VFD accepts this, cleans up the signal and converts it to 240v 3ph. The motor is dual winding so it will run on either 240v 3ph or 415v 3ph. The VFD I selected can handle 240v single phase input or 415v 3ph input. It does not reconfigure the voltage, what goes in is what comes out. It simply converts the input to 3 phase output at the same voltage, provides soft start, allows adjustment of frequency from 1 to 1000hz, & limits amps output to whatever max value I specify (handy for avoiding motor burn out). I selected a VFD with double the capacity I needed in order to get additional cooling (it was just a cheap ebay model... nothing fancy). I live in a place which can get really hot in summer( frequently over 40C, up to 45C)

[@ebc1f7]

I love your material usage measures. I really need to start thinking like that. The “wiggly bits” make it look really cool. Definitely was worth it.

[@CaesarTjalbo]

A work of art, Jer, very good looking

[@PablitoLamberti]

You are an absolute genius!!!! Love your content! Glad you are back

[@raymond_rayder]

Love it. The way you made that cover, making the little wavy bits individually and then gluing them to the disc, was class. Great build, really enjoyed it.

[@garyrogers6761]

Glad to see you 'back on the horse' and working on projects again. All the best from Australia, looking forward to the rest of this project.

[@christopherdrzal3672]

Jer - Its good to see you making videos again. I hope all is well in your world and, as always, your work is perfection!

[@BigLapua]

As with part 1, you are a gifted maker. Love watching what you accomplish! Thanks for sharing with us all. Great stuff!

[@antitheist9976]

Hi Jeremy, so good to see you back, awesome to see those skills of yours again 🙂

[@AuDHDQ]

this guy is an absolute madlad!

[@paulodeoliveira3368]

Great work! But I think I saw somewhere that impellers should be an odd number because of resonance or something..

[@Jer_Schmidt]

Yeah, I’ve heard that too, but I know the Clearvue has 6 blades so it must be ok. I can’t find much info about this and I would like to understand the physics.

[@thebrokenbone]

hi the blue loctite will help but the plywood isn´t providing enough strength to stretch the bolts to proper torque, with time and vibration the plywood will compress and you lose all the tension, maybe a sleeve would help. don´t worry much about lock washers unless they are the ones you bend them over the bolt or nut, just plain hardened ones work better for proper torque. great build, hope to see it finished i´m about to start my own. thanks for sharing

[@iphlueable]

I've always loved your narration of reasoning through it. Well done!

[@iphlueable]

@Jer Schmidt ? Is the above message also you?

[@iphlueable]

@Jer Schmidt if you're not on telegram then someone is impersonating you and telling people they won to drive them to telegram. Same exact pic and name but on telegram. There was a post above, bow deleted that seemed counterfeit. I have a screenshot if you need it.

[@orvsr4me2]

Dang, nice belt grinder. Well done Jer, as always.

[@DuncanAitken]

I love the aesthetics, Jer! Great to see you back creating, and sharing it with us. Hope you're keeping well.

[@edgarblzteste7334]

Congratulation on the project. Your videos are more than intretedment, they are a source of inspiration. Thanks.

[@ebh295]

Excellent video. You've leveled up since coming back!

[@CrosshairLunchbox]

Jer, incredible engineering as always. I love you narrating the details. Explanations. Fantastic.

[@69dblcab]

Great work Jer. Nice to see you and your videos. You are a brilliant person.

[@Bob_Adkins]

Beautiful build! For future reference, sanding the wobble out of the 1/4" rotor plate is not as hard as one may think. I had a heavy disk sander platen that had .030 wobble, and didn't want to risk squaring up the hub. So I set up a drill-mounted sanding disk and sanded a .010-.015 off both sides. I ended up with

[@TokyoCraftsman]

Has to be one of the best builds I've ever seen, well done!

[@williamzanghettijr5862]

Awesome work young man! Cheers, William

[@tandar]

Outstanding forethought of your workflow. One of the few vids I watch at 1x speed

[@thevagabond411]

I like all of your little jigs and the different techniques you use to make them. Oh and the blower is awesome.

[@sapelesteve]

Fantastic build Jeremy! Your attention to detail and execution is amazing! Looking forward to Part 3 of this build. Be well..... 👍👍

[@guillermo7777]

Just the design itself is jut… the look of it is amazing, great job, you are a genius brother, really great video thanks,

[@stephenwgreen78]

Glad to see you back. 👍. Your videos always provide inspiration and demonstrate problem solving I can apply on other projects even if I'm not building the same things. Thanks for all you do

[@macswanton9622]

Thank you. Your efforts are a pleasure to watch

[@CarolinaFarming]

I'm always amazed at how smart you are and how interesting you're able to make your videos. Thanks,

[@holdemNE1]

Mad kills young man. Incredible work and videography.