1968 Mustang strip for epoxy primer. Jade part 31

[@norm-nas]

Ten minute or half an hour it does not matter. You do a good job editing so it is not boring. The fast forward thing while you sand etc is great, I watch it all. Good bloopers too.

[@motormouth717]

People who really want to know how to restore a car properly, don't care how long the video is. We want to learn and do it right the first time. Thanks for showing me. I'm going to learn to weld.

[@berng4725]

Doesn't matter how long the videos are I'll still watch them.

[@leonardgilbreath9004]

Good video Berry and burnout hit some of us just need a break now and then just get refocused stay safe thumbs up.

[@greifill]

Great video. No wonder the poor door hinges wear out like they do. These doors weigh a ton when loaded with the regulator, glass and vent window assemblies.

[@williamduffield4964]

Love this video, Will from Australia.

[@robertrudeseal4200]

Love your work. Very informative and helpful to an old retired pastor who now loves working on his old mustangs. Thanks for keeping your videos family friendly. Keep up the good work!

[@charlesleake930]

great....did you know .. " The Lord ' of the Bible ( a talking burning bush fire ) is Satan ? the God of H ell ! ....wake the & up !!!!

[@michaellaw6296]

Great info Barry.

[@johnwalls4722]

Great info as usual. I was trying to decide if I should take the coating off my panels. Like you said, there is no absolute answer. Great job!

[@macfranks2456]

I call that twisted strand wire wheel the flesh eater, LOL. I have a couple of scars from those thin cut off wheels too.

[@gregworkshop5713]

hi very nice work the car looking grate

[@robertk5428]

Thanks for movie👍

[@robertdennis1969]

Seems like a bigger issue might be what is underneath the primer. I've seen panels with flash rust and rust fingerprints underneath the coating. Really have a hard time trusting what I didn't put down, you know?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

True.

[@leesanders6490]

We can take care of the fitment issues on these Chinese panels as we install them and they are many. But any quality issues that may arise in the EDP coatings will come at us from the other side of thousands of hours and thousands of dollars of hard work. I know the quality of the prep I put into a panel and the quality of the materials I use. There is no way I trust Chinese EDP under my work. Too many things can go wrong. Great video.

[@tedbponycars3014]

Lee Sanders totally agree, not worth the chance

[@oilwellfixer714]

The PO of my car thought painting over the cheap EDP was a good $$ idea. After a couple years every new panel had peeling paint .

[@nevenfisher6258]

Hi Barry, love your work !! Can i ask please what wheels and tyres you are running , must have missed this in a previous vid. thanks Nev

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Wheels are 17X8 and 17X9. Tires are 235/40 front and 255/40 rear

[@nevenfisher6258]

@@JoDaddysGarage Excellent thanks- and brand of wheel? thanks :)

[@JoDaddysGarage]

@@nevenfisher6258 I don't really know. Torque thrust copies.

[@stephenwhite5444]

Does that woven looking strip wheel leave the correct finish for epoxy primer and everything hide well? Or will you have to go back over the bare metal with something like 180 grit?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I usually go over everything with 180 before priming.

[@Timbo428CJ]

Nice, changing gears and all. Is the Brooklyn Pony done, well your part anyway?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Not yet....

[@TheRaulr151]

Hey there! What wheel are you using to remove the paint. I have been using a 3M wheel with occasional wire wheel but that one seems to work very nice.

[@TheRaulr151]

haha....I typed that while watching and get to minute 20 and you explain. lol

[@kennethstaszak9990]

@@TheRaulr151 Barry mentioned to be carful because that wheel can generate heat. I've used that trait to do the same shrinking as can be done with one of those stainless steel shrinking discs.

[@anthonynewsome5258]

Hey Berry, have you noticed the extra body line on those quarter panels? It’s on the wheel flairs and runs the upper 2/3 of the flair! I put one of these on my 68 drivers side and not the passenger side! They don’t match! Compare your rear flairs to to the front flairs or any other 67/68 with factory metal and you’ll see the difference. Now that I see it, I cannot not see it, 😕 what do you think?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I haven't really noticed. The quarter panels that were on this car were terrible aftermarket pieces from a long time ago. The quarters I have now match each other.

[@anthonynewsome5258]

Yea, they match each other just not the front fenders. It’s not Terrible but very noticeable. My left quarter now doesn’t match the rest of the car, again not terrible...but........

[@richardwilliam3757]

Black Hawk strip discs are what I use, they are better than the Harbor Freight version . I get the 5 pack from Amazon

[@douglasrhine4640]

Would love to see a stable patina finish on a Stang as the final result by someone. Could be some out there.

[@goptools]

Hi Barry, I have a question. The 1968 Mustang would have come from the factory with side marker lights. I didn't see the holes for them in your quarter panels. Do you have to make the hole yourself on these after-market panels or did you plan to eliminate the factory style ones? Just curious. It seems to me, getting those holes in the right place and fitting properly would be a huge pain in the butt. Thanks for the video! -mike

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Hi Mike. From what I understand early 68's have a recess stamped area and the light was just a reflector. Late 68 cars used the Cougar style reflector which requires no recess. Mine had the bolt on version. I will delete them from my car.

[@demarmels6686]

Bare metal, fillers and then epoxy? I am currently on a 66 mustang and that has been my process working a panel at a time. I don’t know when it will finally go to paint. Am I okay to do this in your opinion?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

You can filler to bare metal. If I have epoxy, I will apply that to bare metal first, and then add filler.

[@mikeward2922]

No matter the length, i'm going to watch. And if it makes you feel any better, I've had my 68 in restoration for 8 years, sorry to say, but life does have its demands. Since one of mine just wrapped up undergrad, that tuition payment is done! Finally, some relief. Anyway, a question was raised earlier on the use of Picklex20. Did you use any of that or something similar on bare metal on this or other cars? I read that you have to know exactly how to neutralize it before priming and paint. It seems if epoxy can seal the bare metal, then just use it. But, if you need to work out rust, go with a phosphoric acid based product. Also, have you done any type of rust neutralizing inside doors or frame rails? If so, what product?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I used picklex a long time ago. I don't recall the procedures. I used 3x chemistry rust dissolver on the roof. If the metal is good, and rust free, epoxy it. Phosphoric acid id the typical choice I believe. I have also used navel jelly. Have not done inside doors. I have applied por 15 in side rocker panels and frame rails.

[@timspykerman843]

Does the original primer bond as well with the finish coat? Or does the epoxy prime bond better?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

You mean the primer on the new panels? It will likely bind fine. As others have stated, they're concerned with what's under the black primer on the panels themselves. Epoxy binds to bare metal.

[@Robert-or3nf]

what size air compressor tank do you run for your autobody tools?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

60 Gallon. 5 HP.

[@clarkclifford2338]

Mustangs unlimited closed? When did that happen?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Earlier this year.

[@stallionranchwoodworks]

Have you been having a hard time as me trying to find replacement filters for your mask? Its next to impossible. Good job!

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Luckily I have a few sets on the shelf.

[@terencerucker3244]

Great videos but I gotta ask- Are you Tom Hanks brother?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

lol. I get question every now and then. No, I'm not. I think its something with having similar eyes.....

[@Richard4616]

How hard is the old epoxy to sand and recoat

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Not too bad. I hit mine with 80 grit on a DA sander. Not removing it, just breaking the surface to apply more.

[@robertthrem3382]

What is junk wire wheels will throw in the Wires fast use a disc orbital high throw but put it on grind mode 80 grit

[@bernierezny8156]

Hay I know theres a you tube guy who has a great door hinge repair video search jodaddy😁👍👍 He He

[@dmcbride63]

What is your process of putting primer on a stripped car? Your starting with epoxy, then what?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

Epoxy, then if I need to, I'll add body filler, then high build primer.

[@dmcbride63]

Jo Daddy's Garage do you put a sealer on before your base?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

It depends. If it's all in high build and color matched, no.

[@edgydoug]

You may have tried this product, but if not Picklex20 is a great product to put on bare metal to keep flash rust at bay. I put some on a piece of bar metal a couple of years ago and it's still fine, not rust. Granted the parts have been inside my garage during that time.

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I have used picklex before. Good product.

[@arcorob]

wait ..huh ? I thought Jade was finished long ago ? Huh ?

[@JoDaddysGarage]

No. She's been sitting...

[@callofgeorge]

very nice. have you ever found surface rust under the E-coat? the panels/doors i got had good E-coat but had some surface rust running like veins under it in places. also, i had ordered these a while back.. not sure if you can find some cheaper ones or get these on your amazon or not - smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KV8H65R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@JoDaddysGarage]

I haven't found anything under the e-coat, but it sounds like others have. Better safe than sorry.

[@charlesleake930]

i get it .....EVERYONE is a Mason.....hiding in plane sight : (

[@JoDaddysGarage]

??

[@charlesleake930]

@@JoDaddysGarage Freemason hand signs are everywhere on all the channels now....some do it without even knowing it