Stuart D10 - # 2 -- Machining The Flywheel -- Minor Part, Major Effort

[@sipma8500]

I’m stealing “autograph your work with excellence.” Awesome motto!

[@devmeistersuperprecision4155]

Me Too… I like it!

[@OuroborosArmory]

Same, teaching it to all my students, now and in the future

[@rallymax2]

Craftsmanship turned a wonky casting into a finished beautiful piece. Joe is the master. And I can’t thank him enough for sharing his craft every week.

[@bradyoung6663]

Mid week Joe Pie? Hell yeah. I was dying for something good to watch.

[@millwrightrick1]

Joe, you and Kurtis at CEE are the machinists that everyone should watch and learn from.

[@simonfunwithtrains1572]

I have made this model my self. It would have been so much easer for self taught machinist if you wonderful build had been available 10 years ago! No matter, I have lent so many things from your channel in the past years your instruction/education is second to none. many thanks.

[@joepie221]

I really appreciate that. Thank you.

[@ellieprice363]

I really like those angled parallels in the vise for clamping the part. Sixty years in the shop and I’ve never seen that before. Never too old to learn.

[@eoinmurray5396]

Hi Joe, I love to watch this channel, so many helpful tips and tricks. With this current project, you have inspired me to retrieve my Stuart 10V kit from my attic. Purchased many years ago and now it's about time I did some work on it! If time allows I plan to get stuck in and follow along with your project. Thanks.

[@nikkodauria]

Leaving work at 11 and can’t wait to get home and watch ole joe pie make it happen. Love the videos man. Very knowledgeable

[@soundmaster1966]

11:32 Joe, that tapping was pure mastership. With my highest respect. Wow.

[@johnwiley8417]

5:31 This is a shop gem! As are you, Joe Pie!

[@StuartsShed]

The final finishing and polishing is the extra level of mastery that takes everything beyond the next level. It's just amazing to see that cast iron come up so shiny. I have to give that a try on my current engine because it looks spectacular. This is a great build series already.

[@waynefitch990]

Your videos are always teaching techniques.

[@jcschovajsa307]

Thanks for all that you do and taught me. Dad taught me some stuff as he was a self taught machinist and ran the Aeremotor windmill shop for 30 years. Retired and then passed. I ended up with his tools and have been learning the trade since and your videos have taught me so much. Thank You for your time and expertise. Im a diesel mechanic and kinda wish I would have went into the machinist world now.

[@brightmodelengineering8399]

Fantastic workmanship as usual. Lots of tips on workholding and nothing wrong with making a jig to help in machining an item, even a one off. When I built my D10V I didn't need to machine the flywheel, one of the differences between my engine and yours. People don't realise how much time goes into making a model, sometimes as many as making a full size version. For us making something we can treasure is acceptable but for craft makers selling don't realise and complain the maker is charging for their time. I'm enjoying watching these videos especially as I had a hand in causing it hehe. Steve

[@russelldold4827]

Thanks for your contribution, Steve. We all derive great benefits from watching this series.

[@russellmcclenning9607]

The Master taking the students to school again . Thank you for another great part and video Joe.

[@ianhand4845]

Once again a masterclass on model engineering. Thank you Joe

[@jackpledger8118]

Great to see how a pro does this. I always learn something when I watch your videos.

[@SuperMouseHouse]

Maybe we should call you Babe Ruth. You keep knocking 'em out of the park. Wow! Another exciting and beautiful project, every step of the way.

[@oculusangelicus8978]

As always Joe Pie, you never cease to amaze and impress. "Autograph your work with excellence" truly is a great saying and moto, I think I'm going to use that, put it on a plaque over my workbench, it will remind me of you and the top quality work you always show us on your channel, That will motivate me to slow down and make sure to do it right the first time! Hope a great weekend Joe, hope you and yours all have a great Easter as well!

[@mrc1539]

Amazing how much thought and effort goes into such a seemingly simple item. 👍 ! Nice job !!

[@SpruceSculptures]

Like always, Joe teaches me a new trick....the mill bit before drilling the round surface.

[@evilscience3164]

Looking good. I love the Earthy smell of machining cast iron.

[@davidlawrence8085]

Each kind of metal has its own smell.....

[@philipwilkinson8784]

Always a joy to watch your set ups and general approach to your work and I loved your final comment.....when we get into our "mature" years its great knowing that someone that influenced you back when you were learning is still looking over your shoulder today as you impart the same wisdom to those who are following you. Thanks for a great channel Joe

[@joeromanak8797]

I hope no one is naive enough to think that you buy a kit like this and just smooth and shine some part and put it together. This flywheel demonstrates the care and craftsmanship it takes to make it professionally. Joe, you’ve got the skill and patience to make your model the best of the best. I’m impressed. 🥸👍👀✅

[@georgehollowell9295]

Very nice job. I learned something as I was entertained. Who can ask for more?

[@peteengard9966]

Nice job Joe. Sweet motto. I always said. Treat every part of the model as a model.

[@Gamerock82]

"Autograph your work with excellence" - I love that. Great result on a tricky part. I admire your tenacity and finesse Joe. Cheers

[@TomokosEnterprize]

It never fails that as soon as I get 1/2 way through making a comment that was reasonably in line with what your up to that I forget that if my L hand too close to the in/output plugins the entire effort was lost. Sometimes this laptop will squeal in protest when picked up. Something about a high magnetic field I have. Can't wear a watch and I can pull a compass off up to 30 degrees depending on the day. That 3 thing sure comes along a lot in this gig of ours eh. I must admit I love working with castings. Each and every one are so different from each other. Then, when all is said and done that nasty looking, bumpy and lumpy, scaly things are all spiffy we can stand back and say to ourselves, "DID I DO THAT" LOL. things like that KEEP US COMING BACK TO WORK EVERY DAY. I'm lovin it bud !

[@Engineerd3d]

Love the motto. I wish more folks thought this way.

[@Mariatorget08]

Hi Joe. Many thanks for showing your Flywheel-work. Being the new owner of an old Stuart D-10 I have matters to mind. One will probably be the old flywheel. Rgds from Stockholm, SE

[@joepie221]

Greetings From Austin Texas USA

[@Rheasound]

Hi Joe! Another excellent tutorial.i am far away to do what you are doing, but you really motivate me to rework an old steam engine I made 25 years ago. Thank you again and keep your awesome work!! Cheers from Fla!!

[@modellingmark]

Minor part? The flywheel is THE most noticeable part on a running engine. Great job Joe!

[@modellbautorsten9535]

Hallo Es gibt soviel Möglichkeiten, ein gegossenes Schwungrad zu bearbeiten. Sie haben wieder mal ein tolles Video dazu gemacht. Meine Schwungräder mache ich immer selber, meistens aus Materialresten. Die Narbe meistens aus Stahl, die Speichen aus Aluminium und die Felge (Aussenring) aus einen Stück Rohr. Alles wird dann miteinander verklebt. Ich freue mich schon auf die nächsten Videos. Liebe Grüße aus Hamburg (Deutschland) Torsten

[@mikeb1520]

Hi Torsten, wie klebst Du die einzige Teile zusammen? Ich mag gegossene Teile für diese Modellen nicht und stelle alles zur Zeit aus Stangenmaterial her, aber habe keine geteilte Schwungräder hergestellt.

[@markstripes8237]

Great video Joe! So many useful tips in this one! Like a good novel your videos are so packed that I watch most several times.

[@lwilton]

Suggestion on the floppy spacers for the first setup. Drill and tap another bolt circle on the centerline diameter of the flywheel rim. After putting the fixture in the lathe and facing it, screw three cap-head screws down tight, and face them. Now you have 3 points of contact that won't be moving around on their own while you try to clamp and center the flywheel casting. They also won't move around if you touch them a little while facing the rim of the flywheel. Remove them (or not) as you choose before the second op on the other side of the wheel.

[@Andrew_Fernie]

I like this 👍

[@ghl3488]

Thanks Joe, never fail to learn something from you. Regards from Wales

[@gaildimick1831]

That’s is a real fine job. Wish I would have seen this work years ago when I did one of these flywheels. Thanks for the great tips.

[@riptide6161]

From a rough casting to the final product. As always, you give a Master Class on how to get it done. Final product, as usual, is beautiful. Thanks Joe. God I wish you could upload more frequently. It's fascinating!

[@outsidescrewball]

Autograph with excellence….done!!! Enjoyed the discussion/demonstration/mentoring

[@Gauge1LiveSteam]

That polish is the cat's meow. The rims and hubs turned out fabulous

[@fredflintstone8048]

Joe, I find your videos invaluable for learning more precise and more efficient approaches for doing machining work. Thank you for sharing the knowledge.

[@11bravocrunchie22]

Thanks for the new series, Joe. I was starting to get withdrawals.

[@timothyball3144]

I stopped by my machinist today to spin up a simple seal driver, and he told me the exact thing that you did about the center hole and taking a skim cut to ensure concentricity. On my simple part, it wasn't a big deal, but it's pretty cool that I come here and hear the same thing.

[@frankinpattaya]

Great tip Joe on the power drilling, nice work on the flywheel looks very good. Regards Frank.

[@Nebulorum]

Nice autograph on that part. That motto moved me.. thanks for sharing.

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@RobB_VK6ES]

Many years ago I had an exceptional apprentice (cutting threads in the first week) About 6 months in he made a two piece hydraulic nut designed to install a very large roller bearing. After completion it was obvious he was mighty proud of the job and it was indeed a very nice result. To hell with it being a customer part I said go ahead and stamp your name into it. Which he did.

[@michaelryan6884]

You did a great job on that flywheel, Joe. Thanks for these projects...so interesting to watch.

[@greglaroche1753]

Nice job! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@Larry537]

I do like seeing the different setups and the cool tap handle at the end.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Joe, Great start to another model machining class.. Awesome as always !! ATB....

[@marksturgis3536]

It's a work of art.

[@ChrisB257]

As so often, the need and benefit of special fixtures and tooling - highlighting too, how much time (and patience!) is needed to make a good job on challenging parts like this. Must say, for most part, the castings are pretty darned good considering. Love the approach and result. :)

[@bearsrodshop7067]

So you will know I do watch everyone of your video's to the very end, @ 2:19 we got a tip on keeping a part from tipping. But 2 2:39, you moved the parallels back to the vise jaws (@@)! Was that so when drilling the bit would clear, are to see if any one noticed 😁! The fly wheel now looks awesome Joe, Bear.

[@glennmoreland6457]

One of my antique flat belt driven drill presses has a double bevel gear at the top... You can instantly reverse it without stopping the machine......for tapping.. Made by Jones, Pollard & Shipman, Leicester, England... Around 1890-1900 Good video ☹🇬🇧

[@dampfronny2734]

It's nice to see others at work too.

[@joekline3584]

Thanks!

[@paulcarre4719]

Sir, I am continually astounded at the tips that you pass on in the course of these video's - thanks.

[@UncleKennysPlace]

Certainly it saves me the time from learning something by doing it wrong!

[@markshort9098]

That turned out beautiful but that's no surprise 👍

[@dscott1524]

When I did the flywheel, I took a 3 jaw, reversed the jaws chucked the flywheel from the inside then chucked the small 3 jaw into my 4 jaw. Checked ID alignment then did OD, hub, center hole, one side. Then flipped, used the axle hole to align and finished up. I like your technique, it works really well. Just a comment, not competing with the master. Cheers. Additional comment: Put a key in the flywheel. A set screw will shake loose over time, especially if you put a flat belt on the flywheel to drive something. I used 1/16. Cheers

[@recoilrob324]

There are many ways to 'skin the cat' so to speak....the end result is the product of the craftsman doing the work. I love watching how problems are solved which is the core of machining things. Very satisfying to see rough lumpy cast transformed into shiny!

[@navaho5430]

Some nice holding techniques again cheers.

[@DavidM2002]

39:25 I was trying to tap a flywheel hub once, one a bit bigger than this one, but the tap was a bit too short and the handle would just bump into the flywheel. And then I found "pulley taps". They are extended length taps - mine is about 3 times the length of the regular tap. A lifesaver.

[@pacmag951]

You can get extension tap handles too,

[@DavidM2002]

@@pacmag951 I've seen those but the problem can be that you can't keep your tap vertical and get really close to the center of the flywheel or pulley without drilling and tapping on an angle which has its own issues.

[@mikepelelo5657]

Great work. I'm glad to see this project get off the ground. Thanks Joe!

[@roberthiggins1142]

That is a great start to the current project, very well done on the look of the first part..

[@cameronmccreary4758]

For tapping Joe I always use the Tapmatic head in the mill. I love the Tapmatic threading heads. Very nice machining for a casting and I thank you for the learning experience. Exactly, it's supposed to look that way. Out of the box from China; it would look like that.

[@joemiller5110]

Thanks again Joe for sharing you Talent, Time and Efforts.

[@wallbawden5511]

hi Joe good to see you doing yet another model engine as each and every one of them i am learning more about fixturing and some shop gems along the way how you explain each step doing one part at a time and getting it right before moving to the next if some one was doing one you make it easy to follow the steps thanks also like the new start up for the videos above all stay safe cheers

[@SgtCude59]

Really enjoy watching you make these little machine

[@toolbox-gua]

The opening act of what's up to come. Very nice.

[@davidbawden6567]

A pleasure watching you work, Joe...

[@barrycaudle9926]

Nice job as usual Joe. I like the way you think your way through the process.

[@stuartscott9646]

The shop I learned my industrial modelmaking was owned by a guy who had the philosophy that "perfection is acceptable. If you can do better that's great!"

[@davidsnyder2000]

Looks great Joe. Thank you for another great teaching video 👍🙂

[@stumccabe]

Excellent and beautiful work Joe. Thanks.

[@elizabethburgess7671]

Watching the bit from about 16:00 to 18:30 you start by pecking with a centre to ensure when you drill the centre the starting point is not upset by the roughness of the surface initially. OK, that I understand, then when you have the hole you use a boring bar to face the rest of the surface of the centre boss. OK, but why not do the two operations the other way around, start with the facing then when you come to make the hole you have a smooth surface to start the hole in? Am I missing something as to why you make the hole before facing? If the issue is room because of the thickness of the pieces clamping across the spokes, is there any reason why they have to be so thick? (Apologies if I seem to be being a bit of a smart*** here, I'm asking since I hope to be building one of these Stuart kits myself soon and would love to get even close to your standards of workmanship)

[@robertpearson8798]

I was going to ask the same question.

[@johnmcclain3887]

I tighten my quill just snug to get that tailstock drill dead on center, I'm running a couple old Logan lathes, 10 by 24. That flywheel came out pretty good looking, thanks Joe! Five commercial breaks, what's up youtube?

[@jamesdavis8021]

That setup was not how I expected you to do it but,it’s a great idea.

[@donstelfox6921]

Looks good, looking forward to the next part. Thanks for sharing, Cheers.

[@johnross3752]

nice work as always

[@patrickfrantz2466]

Nice to see how you deal with the "issues" that we all face.

[@JustinAlexanderBell]

Turned out great.

[@be007]

not too shabby joe. cheers ben.

[@BenButler1]

Looking good JP. Btw I made one of those tap handle and it is 👍🏼

[@Shawn_speed]

I’m hoping Joe’s perfectionism is KZbin permeable and contagious 😊

[@VladekR]

Wrong, his perfectionism is a source of envy, jealousy and depression 😰

[@davidmyhre2720]

Hey Joe Thank You Sir. Thanks for the shop gem.

[@MikelNaUsaCom]

Keep up the good work!

[@stevel.2458]

Nice job Joe...looks great!

[@Dagonius.]

Good job Joe! Sorry you ended up getting a monday-job-casting. Great job! Looks really nice! I like your HSS tool grinding skills! Not many people can do that these days. Old school. Way to go! Looking forward to the next vid. More bad castings to come I bet. lol Take care! 😉

[@mathysdupreez602]

A thing of beauty to behold.

[@joepie221]

Thanks.

[@williamsquires3070]

“Start tight, end right.” The corollary to this is, “start loose, look like a silly goose.” 🤣

[@BensWorkshop]

Impressive. I have the same flywheel to machine though it is on a 10V, and is a much older casting. Thanks for the tips.

[@williamsquires3070]

Hi Joe. If you’re worried about the shims falling out when you loosen the screws, maybe a drop of thin super glue to affix them to the aluminum backing plate (the one you drilled the 3 holes in.) Let the glue set up, then loosen the screws. Once done, if you need the shims back, use Acetone, or heat with a blowtorch, to soften the glue. 😌

[@dalemcinnes1834]

William Squires Get it right. "then unloosen the screws" 😅 Dale in Canada 🇨🇦

[@williamsquires3070]

@@dalemcinnes1834 no, unloosening the screws would mean to tighten them; the screws are already tight (at that point) no point in making them even tighter. 🤔

[@jeffreycadzow6770]

Hi Joe, in the beginning of this video you tapped some threads using the Mill. It looks like it is a quite straight forward operation but I still have some hesitation about attempting to do the same. I’m sure that there must be some points to be mindful of. Have you already covered the procedure in a previous posting? If not, can you go through the operation in more detail in an upcoming video, I’m sure that you will have a need to tap another thread in the coming weeks. Regards Jeff

[@merc7105]

I wish all the tradespeople I work with had even 50% of your work ethic and standards. Cheers.

[@johneslaughter]

Very nice work! I am in awe!

[@Amritt_Poncho_Villa]

Joe, thank you for another great video! ; -)

[@GaryT1952]

Good stuff Joe Pie...thank you

[@James-fs4rn]

👍 great idea for a turning fixture. What if you were to clamp on the spokes and then you were able to turn both sides of the flanges?

[@camojoe2]

Excellence in execution Joe. Regards, Duck

[@garthwhelan6128]

When I powertap and have a bit of bad thread at the top, I remove the top with a small countersink. I've made some threads worse trying to drive screws into them, but I'll try the wobbling method you describe next time.

[@ralphpavero7760]

Thank you for the video I really enjoy watching you

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍 I will use your shop gem, I've seen it before but didn't understand what caused it.