Stuart D10 - # 3 -- Machining The Bases

[@leemarsh3569]

These videos are worth watching for the machine set ups alone. Never thought of blasting the parts after machining a surface. Need the Joe Pie big book of machine set ups! Thanks Joe 😊

[@garyhardman8369]

hi Joe. Brilliant video as always. When I was an apprentice over here in England nearly fifty years ago, we generally used inch sized threads for mechanical fixings - such as 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2 etc. These were BSF 'British Standard Fine' threads. The 'BA' stood for 'British association' threads, which had a finer pitch and we used them for smaller electrical connections. There were others, such as BSW - 'British Standard Whitworth; UNF - 'Unified Fine'; UNC - 'Unified Coarse'. This could cause much confusion, as they all had differing thread pitches and angles. I was very happy when we changed to the Metric system!

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

Even worse when someone tries to combine two different standards, my all time fave though is when someone tries to screw a left pedal onto a right or vise versa. Big YES to Metric! GB :)

[@paul.newland]

BA is used a lot on models here because the nut dimensions scale well, look authentic and maintain proportions of the original full-sized machines. 🇬🇧

[@bearsrodshop7067]

I am years away from ever learn 1/3 of what I have learned from Joe since I started following him back in 2019, Unfortunately at 70, I will only be able to take these one piece of advise, "take pride in everything you do", thx for sharing this build with us Joe, hope you can make it by when your up my wat, Bear.

[@joepie221]

Planning my itinerary now Bear. I would really like to get over that way.

[@chiefauditor1683]

These videos are bloody handy. Always a new way for me to machine something in model engineering that i'd not thought about

[@zyzzy1944]

It's a Stuart engine, you have to paint it Stuart Green. I'm very much looking forward to watching you build this engine. Thanks, Jack

[@oldfarthacks]

Well there is always the Stewart plaid, such as would be used for the kilt.

[@roberthiggins1142]

This is going to be another great & informitive series of videos, Just my 2 cents worth would be British Racing Green..

[@BensWorkshop]

Cheers for the tips. Always handy having a mill but the original books on making these was ll on the lathe where the faces were done on the face plate.

[@joepie221]

That would be a good challenge.

[@slyfox7429]

Stuart engines were painted Green or Green & Black. The original "green" color is probably not available to ship overseas due to hazmat reg's, however the "classic" John Deere green for tractors manufactured before 1989 would be the closest for North America. This would get my vote for painting the D10.

[@ChrisB257]

As so often, skilled file work makes a huge difference - and some nice "Pie" set up techniques. Great results, and as for a color - I always like a dark green. One variety of that used to be called "British Racing Green". Second choice, a dark maroon.

[@howder1951]

Hi Chris , nice to see you commenting, I too like the green, but for me it's more of a "bright" green high gloss of course. Anyhow take care, it would be nice to see a post from you, if you are up to it, I always liked your videos and would like to see more. Have a nice Easter and cheers!

[@ChrisB257]

Hi - I wish I could get some videos done but sorry to say these days I am a bit of a wreck! Very difficult to spend any significant time in the shop, just too limited. Not to say at some point I might just manage something - the will is there but body says NO! Best to you for Easter and thx for the kind comments. :)

[@russelldold4827]

In Cape Town harbour there was a steam launch, powered by one of these, offering tourist rides. That was some 20 years ago, so I don't know if it is still working. Beautifully smooth and almost silent, it was a highlight of my visit.

[@stephendodds5393]

Love the passion you have to machine this project to the highest standard.

[@tglackin2411]

Enjoyed seeing the filing work. You may think it's boring, i find it instructive and helpful. Just speed it up when removing "the ugly". The fine points of how to hold files, score and flatten surfaces, etc. Is best conveyed by repetition for us visual learners. Anticipatimg the need for some digital modeling demonstrates the vast experience stored in your head...piles of unconscious mental calculations telling you something seems a little off, 5 or six pieces down the road.Another great video! Keep them coming!

[@oldfarthacks]

Joe's taking the time to clean up before starting the machine work is a reminder to us all that the finished product is a finished product and it is better to do the finish work as early as possible, since it effects everything else.

[@georgehollowell9295]

I vote for British Racing Green with all other parts polished. Excellent video. Youy thought processes on how to tackle the parts was very informative as usual.

[@michaelbenzinger2600]

As a fan of steam locomotives I tend to favor black. However, in reading many of the comments, a dark green or maroon appears to be among the most popular suggestions. Either of those choices are fine by me.

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

I recently saw a Stuart painted white. Such a different take. The white with polished steel and brass was spectacular. Just a thought.

[@joepie221]

Someone suggested Ivory. I really liked that thought. Right inline with white.

[@mikepelelo5657]

Burgundy with gold pinstriping. Thanks Joe!

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

very good video JOE ...thanks for your time

[@brightmodelengineering8399]

Hi Joe, I know you're enjoying the challenge I gave you. The Stuart Turner 10 is one of their most popular models, The D10V just doubles the work and problems. Having built one of these myself, seeing the thought and planning that you put into the preparation shows your experience and skills and how you achieve such quality of workmanship. Excellent as lessons too. Your approach is totally different to everything I have seen others do but the results speak for themselves. Dark green is the traditional colour for these, are you going to follow tradition? Keep up the enjoyment. Steve

[@joepie221]

Steve, someone suggested Ivory and red. With the brass accent pieces, that would look great.

[@Elugosch1]

I painted my Stuart #8 horizontal a lovely shade of purple with the boxed painted black. Back in olden times they painted these machines all sorts of colors.

[@reckcoustom9254]

Happy Easter Joe.

[@torstenssongustav]

Tack!

[@joepie221]

Thank you very much.

[@Emu0181]

Tried slowing playback (.25x) to see if I could figure out what the chipmunks were saying in the sped up section. Still just as unintelligible but sounds even funnier. Great video as always Joe, thanks.

[@garywemmer9342]

Always guaranteed a lesson, and a mighty fine finished product.. Always! The masters touch.

[@SandyShoresProjects]

You make wonderful videos, very informative. As for color, John Deere green and yellow pin stripe.

[@outsidescrewball]

Enjoyed…noticed radius on your brass pusher ….great discussion/tips

[@joepie221]

Hey Chuck. Thanks for stopping by.

[@kgee2111]

I learned long ago regarding Stuart’s plans, “Trust but Verify”. Learned the long way.

[@johnvaluk1401]

Thank you Joe for the video. Interesting and informative as usual. I say a dark forest green or British racing green. Happy Easter.

[@robertoswalt319]

You can't go wrong with the classic paint scheme of Red and Black.🌵

[@rayhosking3927]

Brunswick green and gold looks pretty good too,. may suit better as it''s an. English design machine.

[@robertoswalt319]

​@@rayhosking3927my comment was directed to his affection towards the University of Texas sports teams. Red and black are a rival school's colors.

[@bryceklippenstein8774]

Thanks Joe! I love your project videos.

[@joepie221]

Thanks for watching! This is going to be a fun one. I understand these are very powerful.

[@StuartsShed]

I always enjoy and appreciate seeing how to understand the casting, and how to position the starting datum for machining to get the best results of both balanced appearance and proper function. 👍👍

[@jeffreylehn8803]

Nice work as always Joe ,I built my D-10 I painted the base and flywheel black and the rest of the engine Maroon .I did not paint the cylinder heads or the steam chest they were polished .Jeff

[@metalbones]

Parallel set info is a nice feature, it is nice to have more than one mill!

[@joepie221]

I need to buy more parallel sets too.

[@petermcneill80]

Absolutely Dark green on the paint as always fantastic work hats off to you 👍🏻

[@mperry9025]

Thanks Joe

[@ghl3488]

Another great video Joe and thanks very much. Just goes to show how much thought has to go into these things to ensure the end product is spot on. Regards from Wales

[@stumccabe]

Beautiful work - everything carefully thought through and great attention to detail - excellent! Color - green or blue!

[@TheUncleRuckus]

As far as color goes I think a Dark Maroonish type Red and Cream color accents like on the flywheel spokes would look awesome! 👍👍

[@PaulSteMarie]

A nice dark green. That might be the official Stuart paint scheme.

[@joepie221]

Thanks Paul.

[@arthurirwin8235]

After a long day at the grind mill, it's nice to watch your video and relax, thanks for sharing.

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@normansandds757]

yep green as it is an stuart and turner i think the shade mite be brunswisk green as you say often chekit out

[@billmckillip1561]

As always, your set-ups are fascinating.

[@N1gel]

Metric wasnt even a dream in the French dictatorship, back when BA evolved. BA is the English Impetial thread that has been used since devades before the begining of the 20th century (the BA thread was registered in the 1880s) by the British Association for Science and used for all electronic connector terminations. It then diversified use to include watchmakers & and electronic meters and other instrument makers, eventually used for anything small and of high precision. A Perfect choice of thread for Joe's machining.

[@glennmoreland6457]

You still come across BA a lot in electrical switchgear... I'm an electrician by trade... ☹🇬🇧

[@gilberttwaterfield6389]

I gotta admit you do nice work and you have all the patience in the world congratulations sir

[@glencrandall7051]

Looking forward to seeing this in operation.🙂🙂

[@tinkermouse-scottrussell3738]

Since you are asking; I am partial to maroon with gold pin striping and black trim. Play safe from Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada.

[@Nebulorum]

Thanks Joe. I always amazed at how you approach this. What I don’t get is how you know where to establish the first surface. In this case it seems to be flattening the bottom, but how far? How to handle height differences on the opposite side? This puzzles me.

[@paulcooper2897]

Burgundy & Butter Yellow (or Gold)! Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦

[@zok1492]

Love your precision Joe. As to paint color I suggest a blue somewhere between a royal and navy, just because. Keep up excellent work and videos, thanks.

[@wrstew1272]

Immaculate nails. Wish mine were as healthy as yours!😊. The level of intricacies in the CAD work is astounding.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. Much of my work, and many of my customers are medical. Dirty nails are not welcome.

[@jamesdavis8021]

I would go with green.

[@mattomon1045]

Mr Pie happy Easter ! great work tracher!

[@joepie221]

I hope you had a good Easter too.

[@ruperthartop7202]

Great, thinking out of the box. Thanks for sharing Jo

[@simonm7909]

Great video as always. My vote would be Midnight Blue with the brass fittings

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

[@danhoag373]

Thanks for this project!!! What amount of power. Can I expect I want to put this on my recumbent bicycle closed system much like your perpetual motion steam engine!! I shouldn't need any where near a 1/2 horse ( it is a bleeding bicycle after all!) After the series on the shaper these parts are HUGE!! LOL 73 DAN

[@davidmyhre2720]

Hey Joe, Thank You Sir

[@joepie221]

You are very welcome David.

[@davidmyhre2720]

@@joepie221 hey Joe,David if you want I can cerakote any thing you want painted and its heat resistant, just a thought

[@russellmcclenning9607]

Ok Joe my vote is for dark Brewster green with gold Pin striping and thank you for another great video Sir.

[@williamsquires3070]

Hi Joe. At 36:38, if you look at the part of the casting nearest the ball end-mill on the side facing the camera, it seems a little thin there at the bottom where you machined it; are you sure you didn’t take too much off? Also, is this the bearing surface for the crankshaft, or are there going to be split bearings like in an internal combustion engine (i.e. Rod/main bearings)? If so, what’s going to hold them in place against lateral movement (parallel to the long axis of the crankshaft)?

[@NotAvergJoe]

That's just an illusion. There is a parting line casting shadows hence it looked like the underside is further back. If you go back you can see the underside is flushed with the top.

[@mikeburston9427]

British racing green with red pinstripes

[@rayhosking3927]

My vote is for deep green (Brunswick green?) With gold highlights, pinstriping I think that would suit this English design machine.

[@cameronmccreary4758]

Silver looks nice. Joe always does an excellent presentation. Ya'll take a look at "mekanik mesin" from Indonesia; he knows how to do every OSHA violation in minutes. He also works from metal collected off the floor.

[@joepie221]

Some of those guys make me crazy, but they get the job done.

[@CraigLYoung]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@tomlutman2041]

I ended up with a Stuart 10v engine, which is half of what you are doing. The d10 is about $600 as you have, plus BA taps/dies. I think I like the pmr prints better. What I really want is the Stuart major beam engine. They just look interesting.

[@oldfarthacks]

A beam engine project would be very interesting. Even more so, one of the very first type, in which the power stroke was the piston falling back down after having been driven up by steam power.

[@karlgoebeler1500]

Love the labeling system

[@deancollins1371]

I'm trying to think of what colors are found on antique castings. I'd go with hunter green, maroon or black.

[@gagasmancave8859]

Hi Joe royal blue gloss with gold details

[@doomsdaydad2488]

Ivory white with brown trim. Jay Leno has a vertical steam engine in those colors and it's beautiful

[@hoppercar]

I dunno why patternmakers put little drill dimples in there castings....it only cause drills and center drills to walk off center........I usually take a small ball endmill and touch them up on position

[@michaelryan6884]

Nice work...can't wait for more!

[@joepie221]

More to come!

[@gregknipp2575]

I think a brighter red would give great contrasts to the brass, etc...

[@martineastburn3679]

I for one like the use of a Vac to draw up the carbon rich metal. The fine chips can get into joint and jam them. Air is a danger on this metal. I'm with Adam Pitt - Nice British racing green.

[@jasonburns1407]

Awesome thanks 😊

[@BenButler1]

Gloss black with red pinstripe and good leaf highlights.

[@georgeescaped6035]

"candy apple red" thanks for the video!

[@phoschnizzle826]

As others have mentioned, it's hard to beat a deeper green base color with any brass parts and highlights.

[@waynefitch990]

Great video

[@andrewjames7616]

Thankyou 👍

[@joepie221]

Welcome 👍

[@Dagonius.]

Good work Joe! Castings were better, too. That's nice!

[@joepie221]

So far, these castings are great.

[@ashesman1]

God I love these videos! I have been waiting for the "Unlosen it" t shirt campaign. I would buy one in a snap!

[@daveticehurst4191]

Joe, is your shop by a race track ? Often hear what sounds like motorbikes screaming by during the video. Great outcome. Just a useless bit of information, a 0 BA is the same as a 6 mm in pitch and diameter. Interchangeable. Be aware that model making in the UK uses different standard of BA nut and bolt sizes, depending on the scale of the model. As an example you can get a 6 BA nut or bolt with a 7 BA hex ( smaller ) head to make the bolts / nuts look more in scale. Regards from Australia.

[@grntitan1]

Dave, his shop is rather close to the highway. With the recorded machining footage sped up, it sounds like a race track. Doesn’t help that many of the vehicles are zooming by at a pretty good pace.

[@sparkyprojects]

If it was my machine, i don't think i would paint it I like the cast texture, so i hope it shows through when you paint it.

[@petestephens]

Hi Joe I very much appreciate why you sandblast the casting after the gentle skim which leaves a machined surface. I haven’t got a sand blaster. Is there any other way to tackle the cleaning up operation? Thanks Pete

[@joepie221]

Hi Pete. I've heard tell of tumblers ( even homemade ) with sand in them to achieve the same result. Takes longer, but supposedly works.

[@petestephens]

@@joepie221 Thanks Joe I’ll check that out.

[@warrenjones744]

Dark green or Maroon are good steam engine colors

[@BedsitBob]

Dark Green.

[@nigelleyland166]

The crank juornals, I was thinking line boreing, (on the lathe) however I do not have a mill The US dislike of the metric system does amuse me, afterall you do hae 100 cents to the $! lol.

[@Tarquin987]

Nice to see Pro/E being used.

[@joepie221]

I like it.

[@pitt6801]

I think you should paint it British racing green. Totally classic colour.

[@joepie221]

It would be.

[@descmba]

I am no expert, so I wanted to ask if I am seeing this correctly... the six holes on either side of the crankshaft bushing... it appears you placed them centered in X and Y as is shown in the drawing at roughly 10:50... but then you used the ball end to remove the excess material, where the bearing will be placed. I was expecting a majority of the material removed to come from the bottom of casting. But, it looks like you removed a significant amount from the sides as well. From the angle of the camera, it no longer looks like the wholes are centered in Y. Are they actually 5/8" apart? Thanks for taking the time to create such wonderful content. I look forward to seeing future videos!

[@joepie221]

The holes remain .3125 each way, off center. Not as much material came off as it really looked. Maybe .03 (.75mm) per side.

[@descmba]

@@joepie221 Thanks for the explanation!

[@michaelnoyes4817]

Happy Easter to you and your family mate

[@joepie221]

Same to you!

[@Rheasound]

You didn’t DPI your casting first!! Lively job, Joe as usual. Thanks for sharing, Cheers from Fla.

[@SandBoxJohn]

US navy gray, works fine, lasts a long time, varies from ship to ship.

[@tomlutman2041]

I was looking for one of those 7/16 ball Endmill. Yikes, they are pricey for the hobbyist.

[@peteengard9966]

It's got to be Stewart green. I did see one gloss black and bright orange once that looked nice. But it was a horizontal.

[@rjc31457]

Keith Appleton, on KZbin, has info on correct colors for these engines. Good channel too though a much different approach.

[@tonywilson4713]

Yep Keith's channel is a treasure trove of model engineering knowledge. The different approaches might be because they have quite different backgrounds and that a lot of Keith's work is in repair & rebuilds.

[@tonywilson4713]

mrpete222 is also another great channel for basics & fundamentals on machining.

[@JBFromOZ]

what happened here? @17:00 loving the level of detail you are bringing to all of these models, truly next level mate!

[@Gauge1LiveSteam]

How would you mill the journals without a ball mill? I say gloss black.

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

British Racing Green or dark maroon, used to be indecisive but I'm not to sure now! As aways Joe Dude stay safe n well. TFS, GB :)

[@joepie221]

Someone suggested Ivory with red pinstripes. Against the brass components, it immediately brought to mind the front end of a Stutz Bearcat. Green is nice, but why follow convention?

[@graemebrumfitt6668]

@@joepie221 Quite agree Joe, its just my fave colour, think I fell in love with it when I saw the Bentley Blower Airfix kit as a kid, bought the model about two years ago, nearly done! Again Joe your model😁 will have to look up the Stutz Bearcat! GB :) Just looked NICE...

[@jimforsyth2.]

Be cool to do a line bore operation on the crank

[@dtnicholls1]

I'd go fire engine red. Just to be different. Can you explain why you don't like to indicate castings? I've heard you say it innumerable times, but I can't recall you explaining exactly why.

[@davidt8438]

Could you mill a brace for the inside so it isn’t bowed or crushed while in the vise? My vote is for a cream color (although I really like the natural grey casting after you sandblasted it).

[@joepie221]

There is a full rib across the center.

[@Randysshop]

Red 👍👍