Is this the best Tailstock Die Holder for the home shop machinist?

[@rgetso]

Your up-close video style is reminiscent of Clickspring and really helps us see exactly what you are doing. It's actually quite satisfying to watch.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks, that’s a massive compliment. Click spring videos are toon notch.

[@jonnyphenomenon]

This is my tenth time watching this. Been referring back to this video with each step because the instructions this kit comes with are nothing but useless ramblings. Thank you Jonesey for making this video so clear and understandable.

[@joneseymakes]

That's great to hear. I'm glad it was of some help, thanks for watching.

[@jonnyphenomenon]

@@joneseymakes Some day you will have so many followers you won't be able to reply to every one of them. But until you do, I'm happy to know that anytime I need advice you will be there.

[@joneseymakes]

@@jonnyphenomenon Indeed! If you've got any questions about the builds email me on [e-mail]

[@klw141]

Joe Pie has a great video on making precise tapers and cone dimensions.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks, I’ll check it out

[@Preso58]

Nice job. I like to put a 60 degree point on the middle socket head set screw so it will drive into the split in button dies. It allows you to open the die slightly to cut an oversize thread and then retract the screw so the second pass will only remove a small amount of stock.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks Mark, yes that is a great tip. The kit comes with some flat hex screws and some with a point for just that purpose I imagine. Didn't even occur to me to mention that in the video! Big fan of your channel by the way, I especially enjoyed the Titan .60 series. Keep up the good work!

[@37yearsofanythingisenough39]

Absolutely the way to do it Mark if you want to avoid missing thread sections in steel. This is the way die heads work.👍

[@skysurferuk]

@@joneseymakes Tip? That's just standard threading practice. Why d'you think there's three screws in the holder, as standard? You've been buying crappy Chinese dies, then. Nice link, might have a go at this. Thanks. I also stopped looking at blondiehacks when she called posters "Trolls" for trying to educate her in not using her verniers as backmarkers.

[@samrodian919]

@@skysurferukyes I don't like Chinese crappy solid dies either! Even their split ones are not a lot better. A decent European or US or Antipodean made split dies are far superior. My late brother was a precision thread grinder who did his apprenticeship with LAL Ltd.( Lehman, Archer and Lane) two miles down the road from me. Sadly they went to the wall in the late eighties I think.

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Thank you for the clarity of your operations. Beautifully filmed and narrated. I feel less daunted to try such a project and will definitely try making this tail stock die holder myself. Fabulous sir, simply fabulous. 👏👏👍😀

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks very much Andrew, much appreciated!

[@movax20h]

That clutch mechanism design is so simple and reliable. Nice.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@vankuipland]

74 year old retired toolmaker here. I made a holder similar to this one about 57 years ago. It has a recess on both sides for two different size button dies. Anything bigger than 6 mm I would always screwcut. The holder is about 60 mm long with a 12 mm reamed hole in the middle and has a light knurl on the 38 mm OD. It does not have a handle or clutch for safety reasons. I have a 12 mm ejector pin with the head cut off which I clamp in the tailstock drill chuck and the holder will slide along that pin. It works basically the same but my hand is the clutch which is far safer and the whole unit is a breeze to make .

[@joneseymakes]

That’s very interesting, thanks for sharing.

[@FlickFreaks]

14:23 I got goosebumps when you grabbed the shavings while the lathe was still running. I have a coworker who really fucked up his finger doing that. But of course that is one tiny part in an otherwise brilliant video. You earned a new sub & I can’t wait to go through your catalog of work.

[@joneseymakes]

I know, I need to get some tongs for pulling shavings out :-) Thanks for subbing, glad to have you on board!

[@wolf310ii]

@@joneseymakes No, not tongs, you need a hook, dont know how its called in english, in german its "Spänehaken" it looks a little like a short rapier with a bend tip.

[@GenePavlovsky]

@@wolf310ii A chip hook

[@Kompins]

@@joneseymakes Narrow nose pliers are the perfect tool, used them for decades; nothing to get caught , just keep your hands away from the swarf!

[@joneseymakes]

@@Kompins Thanks, good tip!

[@markkrick8602]

I have adopted Joe P's method. He explains it very well. I don't think he mentions the compound but I use the opposite 29.5 °~ since you're feeding towards the tailstock end

[@briangrono7855]

THAT WAS ONE OF THE BEST JOBS I HAVE SEEN IN A LONG

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@IdahoShawn]

I love how on the Hemmingway Kits product page your video is referenced under "Extended Information" for this exact kit... Hemmingway Kits: "Let's make a cool Die Holder"... Jonesey: "Hold my Beer"...

[@joneseymakes]

Haha! Indeed.

[@abowie1965]

I made one of these on the weekend. I cut the 4 main parts out of one piece of 2" stock and so was able to cut all 4 tapers in a row without having to move the compound. When using it you need to be REALLY careful as if it locks you can get your hand jammed very easily. I elected not to fit the ball on the end of the handle to make it a bit easier to let go in a hurry. Get the saddle as far away from it as you can so you don't get tangled. It works really well, but I use it with my foot right on the foot brake ready to stop the lathe. Overall an excellent addition to the workshop!

[@joneseymakes]

Glad to hear you've made one and are pleased with it. Mine is the same, you have to be ready for when that clutch engages

[@neillickfold]

When doing an inner taper, you can set on the diameter with a marker pen and making a scratch on the inner edge. Set your zero or diameter at this point, then keep changing the diameter until you get to the number. If it is real important, make a gauge that is basically a male turned cone. You measure the distance on the Z value to the shoulder. Using rollers and knowing the taper, you can either calculate the diameter of the cone to shoulder intersection or draw it with a cad program and then you can know that dimension. You can then calc backwards to the gap needed to get your size. Sometimes to get an accurate size on a taper, instead of changing the cross slide value, it becomes easier to change the carriage position or the Z value to get the final size. A great genuine video.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks Neil, some great advice there.

[@eddietowers5595]

I just binged watched your channel, this whole day, as my first act of my vacation (holiday) and enjoyed each video. They were remeniscent of my metals shop teacher and shop class and assigned projects. I found your channel via [happy] accident and was hooked because they're mostly Hemingway kits, which I had just purchased their retracting tool holder couple weeks back then then I find your channel. How serendipitous! I wanna thank you for sharing your videos with us, great channel, great content and awe some narrating.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks for the feedback! Glad to hear you’re enjoying the channel. Plenty more Hemingway kits coming in future videos! Good luck with the retracting tool holder, that’s one I’m considering too, so let me know how you get on!

[@dirtybarry7002]

I made a fairly similar diestock a few years ago (on my channel) with a cone clutch, but I think this is a better design. Mine requires adjustment of clutch preload for each different die size.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks, I’ll be sure to check your video out.

[@MrCubflyer]

That reminds me of how a Volvo outdrive works they are by far the best in my opinion for safety and they work flawless if adjusted properly. Thanks for the vid Im going to get the plans and build one of those.I dont have a milling machine at this time but I can probably carefully make the square cuts with a saw.

[@joneseymakes]

You should be fine on this project without a milling machine.

[@Militarycollector]

I have to say you’ve done a beautiful job building that thing that’s for sure… A real pro..⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ 👍👍

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks, much appreciated!

[@davewaites2414]

Came across your channel by accident but what a first video to watch. Very impressive. I am a total newby only 6 months into my journey and this is defo above my pay grade but hopefully I’ll get there one day. It’s a cracking idea and obviously make threading a lot easier. Keep up the good work mate, regards Dave.❤

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks Dave, best of luck with your journey! The machinists hammer may be a good place to start

[@cdrive5757]

Welcome and best of luck with your KZbin channel. The your work on the Die Holder was meticulous. So much so it deserves its own Lacewood (Silky Oak), dovetail case. 😉Wakodahatchee Chris

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks Chris. Maybe a case would be a good project!

[@hamish7759]

For working out the 14 thou dimension on the end of the cone you could use a ball bearing to contact the taper, and measure the distance between that and the face of the part, and with a cad sketch I think you could work it out, thanks for the great video :)

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks for the advice, sounds like a good plan!

[@terrymoorecnc2500]

You'll need a big ball to work it out and face the issue of how to gage from the OD of the ball to the face. Better to machine a plug gage and just extend the cone by plus or minus .005 based on the calculated ID of 1.722" Start with a 1.727 OD, cut the 30 degree from that point back a quarter inch and use it as a gage or just machine the male cones first. If you do make the plug there would be a .0085" range from the plug face that would have you in the tolerance band. The only caveat is that the compound needs to be set accurately on 30 degrees for the math to come out.

[@bkoholliston]

Just found your channel and I am enjoying it! For you 0.014" dimension, the usual way to measure that is a ball dimension--you set up an indicator set zero on the front edge of the part with the cone bore and then put an appropriately sized ball in the cone and measure the height of that beyone that edge. Then a little trig will show that the edge diameter of the cone is E = 2*sqrt( (B-H)*H ) where B is the ball diameter and H is the height of the top of the ball out the cone. You would then take the diameter of the part minus the E sharp edge cone diameter and divide that by 2 to get the edge size. You would need a pretty big ball for this as it must be a good bit larger than the cone opening so it just touches on the edge of the cone. This measurement is how you can measure a countersink diameter so you can look that up for pictures etc. Nice video and nice project!

[@joneseymakes]

Great, thanks for the advice. I'll do some more research on that ball technique!

[@GenePavlovsky]

I guess you can use a smaller ball (have to be just big enough to contact the taper, not the bottom of the hole inside) and use a depth micrometer to check the distance between the front face and the top of the ball?

[@joelucas7472]

Very nice! I like the design, and have just purchased the kit from Hemmings. Thank you, I enjoyed the video.

[@joneseymakes]

Glad to hear it, thanks for the comment

[@johnspathonis1078]

Very nice job. Luckily I have a pulse button on my lathe so by selecting 45 rpm I pulse/powerfeed until close to the shoulder. I manually turn the last few turns. Also for single point turning and longitudinal power feeding I have mounted a movable microswitch to the lathe bed. Once activated it operates an electric air solenoid valve. This then activates a 16mm air cylinder(s) to disengage either the screw half nut or power feed lever. Which cylinder is activated is selectable. I use a regulated/lubricated air source so the stopping distances are extremely consistent. There are a few other features not mentioned. If you are interested I can send details.

[@joneseymakes]

Hi John, that sounds like a very innovative solution. I’d be interested to hear more. Perhaps email me? [e-mail]

[@Cenedd]

@@joneseymakes There's also the dog clutch option: www.cgtk.co.uk/metalwork/minilathe/dogclutch I plan to go the electronic leadscrew route but I procrastinate too much and end up with a pile of half-build parts instead :D

[@jasonhull5712]

I’ve been looking for something like this where someone has modified the original design. I’ve been considering scaling it up a bit for the larger size dies I have. The issue with the smaller size dies is it’s not really too bad to line up and hold under power (at the lowest rpm’s of course) but when it comes to the larger sizes I get a little nervous about holding on to them. This seems like a good base design to scale from. Not to mention great for the intended purpose. Great video my friend. 👍🏻 enjoyed the watch. Becoming quite the fan of your content. 🍻

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks, glad you're enjoying it. It's a good tool, I use mine a lot.

[@jdsstegman]

My first video of yours. Great work. Love the references of other great KZbin channels.

[@joneseymakes]

Awesome, thank you! Glad to have you on board.

[@robertoswalt319]

Thank you for posting this video. I have seen these advertised but was concerned about how complicated the clutch would be to manufacture. Now I know what to ask Santa for this Christmas.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@flyzeyefab]

Very cool project. I like your tolerance goals - very tight. Well done, sir! Well done!

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks. Much appreciated!

[@dermotkelly2971]

What a nice tool to make. I am waiting on the finance to build a shed out here in Thailand and get back in my trade.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks. Good luck with the shed!

[@gautesivertsen]

Very nice, great work and video!👏👏 I do really not want to "pick" on You, but would like to ad some comments😊 For keeping things in line, it would be easier to turn inside diameter/ream and make the cone without turning the part between the operations (female thread part). Also the alignment of threaded parts "depend" on a shoulder to line up to. So the final assemble should be locking the screew to the shoulder. (The shoulder that was hit when threading.) Keep the videos coming!!🤩

[@joneseymakes]

Good advice, thanks for the tips!

[@alexgaras1573]

Did you put your makers mark/logo on it afterwards? Now having watched all your other vids its just feels like it needs that final touch to look totally 😎 Thanks for your work, I learnt a lot from it 🙏👍✌️

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks Alex, unfortunately my laser won’t work on curved surfaces currently. This is something I’d like to remedy in the future

[@bentremayne8042]

Great video, really well presented, I've never come across Hemingway kits before, I may well invest. Looking forward to checking out the rest of your content

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks! I’d recommend Hemingway kits.

[@julianlockyear8824]

Just ordered my kit 👍thanks for an excellent video.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks for watching!

[@jrkorman]

Excellent build and looks to be a great tool design.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks, I can recommend the kit for sure.

[@brianhillary7469]

Stumbled across this video, but really enjoyed it.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks! Check out some of my other videos perhaps, they are much the same.

[@neillickfold]

For threading, I have a VFD on my Myford S7, and use a microswitch , that then turns off the forward direction on the VFD control and activates the programmed brake. Then you have as time as needed to withdraw the tool , and only the reverse direction will work to take the carriage back. For cutting with a centre support, I have a second microswitch , that stops the carriage before it can hit the tailstock or the centre support. The right hand microswitch will turn off the reverse direction on the control, and only the forward direction will be available for activation. It gives plenty of time to add lube and set the next cutting depth. I like to use the partial form threading inserts for the common threads like 1mm pitch for example. I then keep cutting until the diameter is 0.05mm smaller than the nominal diameter. So for 22X1 I would cut the outer diameter to 21.95mm after the thread is finished. I would make the blank at +0.1 so 22.1mm for example.

[@joneseymakes]

Wow, that sounds like an awesome setup on the Myford. Are you using some kind of microcontroller or are the switches wired directly into the VFD?

[@nadam35]

thank you so much for posting this video, ive been looking at this kit, and now im sold

[@joneseymakes]

You’re welcome!

[@HM-Projects]

Too pricey once you add shipping to Australia. It'd be nice if Hemmingway kits can sell the plans separately, it'd be better for folks like me that can buy stock locally and lower carbon footprint :)

[@CS-Sir_Twit]

Bump from another Aussie

[@kieranpaulger3485]

I have heard rumour that if you email them, you may just be able to purchase the plans only...not sure if this is correct however.

[@HM-Projects]

@@kieranpaulger3485 I might give that a go, cheers.

[@joneseymakes]

Definitely email them. Kirk that runs the place is a nice bloke, I’m sure he’d send some plans for a reduced cost if you asked him.

[@HairyNumbNuts]

Couldn't agree more. 35 pounds for the kit plus 60 pounds shipping. I've asked before for plans only and had a no. I'll add that I eventually bought a bunch of kits that spread the overall shipping so that it was more reasonable on a per-kit basis, but it was still awfully expensive.

[@joewhitney4097]

Great build, great project. Thanks for sharing.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@Rustinox]

That's indeed a very clever design.

[@joneseymakes]

Yep, I wish I could take credit for the design, but a guy called J.C. Payne designed it.

[@niksechtniks]

What a great project! need to make one myself Tnx for sharing

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@James-fs4rn]

👍 you can disengage the half nuts when threading to stop the Z axis quickly. Just reengage them at the same number when you reverse the spindle. The threading dial is moving so slowly that it's easy to keep track of the position. Little trick of the trade 🙂

[@joneseymakes]

Cheers, I need to master that one

[@James-fs4rn]

@@joneseymakes You're gonna love. It's easy.

[@EddieTheGrouch]

You High and Mighty folks with your fancy pants half-nuts! It's obvious that the designer of this clever tool also has a Chinese copy of a 1940's Russian lathe and intends to make the world a better place for us.

[@daveallan8103]

I watch you videos that a good tool to have thanks from Dave Allan in Australia

[@joneseymakes]

Cheers Dave!

[@koke2112]

Hello, thanks for the video it's amazing. Please, could you tell me the name or the link that uses at 16:16 for purchase it? It's fantastic for internal holes. Thank you!!!!

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks, it's called a noga reversable countersink. www.zoro.co.uk/shop/cutting-tools/deburring-tools/rc2000-medium-reversible-countersink/p/ZT1126465X?pub_w_id=8989328&cjevent=496ac08fa79911ed8354010a0a18ba74

[@koke2112]

@@joneseymakes Thank you ;)

[@Moehre040]

im honestly curious, why you use the handle/torsion bar to force the dieholder into the part. I have been taught in my apprenticeship (didnt do any lathework since then) to just rest it on the compound, which then does the holding for you. That always worked well for me, whether im doing it under power or not (though ofc under power i stopped short and did the last bit by hand to not crash the thing, as you explained in your initial explanation).

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks for the question. I've tried that technique with the import die holder a couple of times but still have trouble getting the thread started, might be a technique failure on my part. You couldn't do that with the Hemingway Kits design as you need to put force on the torsion bar to engage the clutch mechanism, if I rested it on the compound or cross slide it would just sit there free spinning.

[@johncoops6897]

@@joneseymakes - the technical failure was that you deliberately used the wrong side of the die.

[@oregoncouger]

Going to make one of these tomorrow out of my drop rack.

[@joneseymakes]

Good man

[@carllie4848]

Hello from Norway. Just discover your channel. Very good. Very good the way your filming and talking. Carl Erik

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks Carl, much appreciated!

[@MrHuntnfish]

Hi Jonesey, Thank you for taking the time to show us this Die Holder, I have now watched this video twice and seen bits that I missed the first time, Question: Is it possible to use a tap, and use the cone system both intermediate and bottoming to prevent tap breakage. Regards Beagles.

[@joneseymakes]

Hi Beagles. I don’t see why not. Obviously you’d need a means to hold the taps so the holder would need to be redesigned, but I think that would work

[@free2468]

Nice presentation. I was wondering if you need to have a milling machine to do this project? I have the lathe, not a milling machine.

[@joneseymakes]

The milling machine is helpful by not essential.

[@Michael-ze6oz]

HI'i, you used Loctite to keep the die holder in position so it won't lock the clutch cones. Is this not dangerous? If the Loctite fails while the lathe is turning, the clutch cones will lock and the handle will spin around. It's safer to remove some material of one of the clutch cones imo. Some free movement of the clutch cones is allowed in this design. The handle will drive them outwards.. You have made impressive tool, nice job. Looking forward to see more projects.

[@joneseymakes]

Hi Michael, if the loctite failed the two end pieces would unscrew therefore releasing the clutch cones and freeing the handle. Thanks for watching!

[@justin_704]

Only comment on it is about the concentricity of your die holder. I wasn't sure about it being on a slight tilt, but right at the end you can see a distinct wobble of about at least 1 mm. Great job though. Loved the video.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks, I’ll re check the video

[@peirossmallhomemachineshop5364]

Great project. Plenty good ideas. Thanks for sharing.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@dmitryzlotnikov6587]

Excellent work !

[@joneseymakes]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@be007]

very nice made ! cheers ben.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks Ben, much appreciated!

[@older-wiser-better]

Great outcome !

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@BeardedBen]

Great Video, Hemingway Kits is my new favourite website and i fully intend to waste every paycheque i get on it

[@joneseymakes]

Haha good for you!

[@CreaseysWorkshop]

Beautiful tool and a really great video. Well done!

[@joneseymakes]

Thank you very much!

[@lste]

Just came across this video. Where have you been hiding? Great to have a real Brit making workhop vids. You're the only one as far as I know. Just a thought but couldn't this tool be simply adapted for power tapping on the mill? Many thanks and keep up the great work.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks Alan! The channel is pretty new, but lots more content planned. I’m sure you could adapt it for the mill yes.

[@MrJackandEmily]

I'm pretty impressed that you managed 1.0000000" .. just wow.

[@1crazypj]

You can get a lot of non standard size taps and dies and they are not too expensive. (die holder for 26x1mm & 27x1mm was a bit pricey but less than $75) I doubt it would be worth buying for a 'one off' though Japanese motorcycles often use 22x1mm, 24x1mm plus other non DIN/ ISO / SAE metric fittings. (although thread form is to 1965 ISO specifications, I forget exact spec number) Due to this fact, I have quite a lot of oddball taps and dies

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks for the info, that’s great to know.

[@markkrick8602]

Good video, your subscribers will rise quickly!

[@joneseymakes]

Hope so! Thanks!

[@stevethompson8504]

Really nice job.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks Steve

[@DavidR8]

Very nice work.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks David!

[@WeCanDoThatBetter]

Super clean and nice work! I just subscribed to your channel. This is a really clever tool design too, I really like it. Thanks for sharing, you did some excellent photography job here as well.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks! Good to have you along for the ride.

[@Journeyman1642]

Inheritance machining made his own 😯

[@nardaoeletronica]

Excellent work.

[@joneseymakes]

Many thanks!

[@BadDecisionsJeep]

I like the design though I would like to add a slip sleeve so it can extend into the part without having to turn the tail stock. Might be interesting to mesh both designs.

[@joneseymakes]

It moves freely on an abour to extend it into the work, is that what you mean?

[@HardlyDrivenSon]

great video, and thanks for the link

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@philoso377]

Excellent presentation. Thanks

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@stephenperry5849]

Just started the Hemingway knurling tool. I wanted to do the taper attachment I saw you make but need to make a couple more tools first! This looks great too.

[@joneseymakes]

I’ve got the knurling tool kit too, but I need to build some more tools before I start that! Namely a rotary table to machine the rounded arm features.

[@joneseymakes]

How are you getting on with the Knurling tool?

[@stephenperry5849]

@@joneseymakes literally just started. Have just sized the side panels and setting up to drill the various holes. I've not done anything like this before. Pretty much the first tool I have ever made. Only hade the lathe and mill for about 6 months. Quite daunting!

[@joneseymakes]

Well best of luck with it!

[@stephenperry5849]

Thank you!

[@emran9233]

Wow what an idea boss

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@joeybobbie1]

That is really nice. Great Job on the Machining. That’s going to make Threading a Breeze. I’m going to have to try to make one myself. Where do you get the Plans at? 😁👍👍

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks! Links to the kit are in the description

[@iancraig1951]

Well done great project

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@larss337]

Looks like a great design. A very good video 👍

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@scmaker8506]

Just found your channel and I'm now your newest subscriber! Great content, please keep it up!

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks! Great to have you on board.

[@mchiodox69]

Nicely done

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@MrSneakyGunz]

Quite beautiful.

[@joneseymakes]

Many thanks!

[@GenePavlovsky]

Nice video, I was wondering how this clutch works, and now it's clear. I was thinking building this kit, but since I only have metric dies, which come in a bunch of different sizes, I was wondering if it would work. Your video kinda answers that. One question: some dies (M3 to M4) are 20x5 mm and others (M4.5 to M6) are 20x7 mm. The diameter is the same but if the die is fully inserted, the grub screw indentations are at different heights. Does your 20 mm recess holder work equally well for both 20x5 and 20x7 mm dies?

[@joneseymakes]

Hi Gene, I've not tried with both 20x7 and 20x7, but I think the best approach would just to make an additional die holder insert. That'll work fine but you'll need a bit of extra stock obviously.

[@GenePavlovsky]

@@joneseymakes Right, since these inserts are really easy to swap, it's not a problem to make extras as needed. Thanks Nicholas.

[@dermotkelly2289]

Fine job mate. Do you get separate drawings with the kit or are the drawings just on one sheet of paper? Thank you.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks. The drawings are very good actually, on three separate A3 sheets from memory.

[@Christiannetzer]

Thanks for this video! The plan worked with inch and metric thread? Best wishes from german

[@joneseymakes]

Yes it was fine. I prefer to use metric threads where possible.

[@RobertBrown-lf8yq]

Great video ….. great tool too. The name ‘J.C.Payne’ rings a bell? Isn’t he the guy that invented / sold the Quickstep Milling accessory for lathe toolpost mounting? I understand that design was taken over by Hemingway. I bought one of the original Quickstep units years ago. Still brand new, unused in its box somewhere. I’ll dig it out and check to see if my recollection is correct. Regards Robert Brown, Sydney, Australia.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks, would be interesting to know! Cheers

[@RobertBrown-lf8yq]

Yep 👍 Same guy that invented /sold the Quickstep Mill . Great vid. I’m going to see if I can import one of those Hemingway kits. 😢😢 though…. the Aussie ‘pesos’ is worth about 20P 🤣🤣🤣 Regards Robert

[@ronmurphy9819]

Great video! I thought it was so good I just tried to order one and found out the e-mail didn’t work and what I found was 10 years old. Do you have anything that can help? Thanks Ron

[@joneseymakes]

Hi Ron, there is a link to the Hemingway website in the video description, you should be able to order online from there.

[@howardosborne8647]

Is a retracting threading tool holder on the cards for future video? Hemingway also sell a kit for a swing up threading tool holder.

[@joneseymakes]

Could be… I’ve seen that swing up tool holder, looks interesting. I’ll consider it, thanks for the suggestion.

[@MrKingdavis13]

I wouldn't want to rely on lock tight to keep the clutches from locking up ad would probably add a shim to physically limit the cones from getting too close. I could see cutting a heavy thread that would push through the thread lock and lock the clutch tight so that when you are expecting to disengage it doesn't and hopefully just breaks the handle off when it hits the carriage and doesn't take your hand with it. Other than that it looks to be limited to smaller sizes since the through hole is only 5/8 or 16mm so I would want to see it have a larger bore to allow a wider range of thread dies to be used but it looks like a fine design other than those small points.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks for the feedback. I use locktight 648 and it's held up so far but I see your point. I've used this to cut threads up to 14mm in brass, anything bigger than that I think you'd have a job to hold on to it. Definitely a tool for the smaller threads.

[@claygormish4884]

Threading away from the head stock is easy, just follow with Joe Pies' video. Inverted threading tool of course.

[@joneseymakes]

Cheers. I’ll give it a try

[@aceroadholder2185]

There is a trick you can use to cut a metric thread to a shoulder. It works especially well for lathes that don't have a spindle brake. Engage the thread dial and pick a number on it for your first pass on the work. When the number comes up on the thread dial engage the half-nut. As the threading tool reaches the end of the thread being cut open the half nut and hit the stop switch on the lathe and let it coast to a stop. You will note that the thread dial hasn't moved a whole lot past your number. Back the threading tool out. Reverse the lathe spindle and when the thread dial backs up to your number, re-engage the half-nut and back the carriage up to your starting point. Set the threading tool for the next pass then rinse and repeat>

[@joneseymakes]

Great tip. Much appreciated.

[@ferb7452]

I love it It’s now on The lis

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@RaymondMcMahon-e1q]

How did you set up the thread cutting..size...what size is the od..on the bar

[@joneseymakes]

From memory it was an M20 x 1mm. So the OD was 20mm then I set my gearbox up to cut a 1mm thread pitch

[@avelkm]

Great tool and work, can it be bought as a finished tool? No way I can machine that precisely on my lathe with my skills

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks! I don’t think it can be bought as a finished tool. You should have a try at making one, you never know you may surprise yourself!

[@avelkm]

@@joneseymakes you need a nice mill for that and a lot of tools. As well as solid compound slide) I'm not a machinist, I bought lathe to make pens. It's at least two external threads for one pen, so nice die holder would be very beneficial.

[@manuelcv9475]

Perfect job.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@manuelcv9475]

@@joneseymakes It is really the best outillage that I have seen in KZbin videos. Work 22 years in a multinational adjusting machinery and outillage and this is easy, efficient and very useful.

[@djhscorp]

Nice video, well presented.👍

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@wolf310ii]

Looks nice, but also "over engineered" for that size, i simply hold the die holder (without a lever) up to M14-M16 with my hand

[@dennisconway2548]

Interesting tool - looked into purchase from Hemingway unfortunately (and certainly not your fault) shipping was about equal to the plans. Need a cheaper shipping option to the colonies

[@joneseymakes]

Where are you based?

[@dennisconway2548]

At chance you could video a close up the dimensions page ?

[@dennisconway2548]

@@joneseymakes Lansing Michigan USA

[@StuartsShed]

Another great video. I’m enjoying getting caught up on your channel having just discovered it. Has anyone answered your question on how to establish the lip thickness? This die holder is definitely one I want to make - although since I started upside down /reverse threading, it’s not as essential.

[@joneseymakes]

Glad to hear it! I did have at least one response yes, it's in the comments for the video.

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

just subbed to your channel .. really enjoy my shop time as well

[@joneseymakes]

Glad to have you on board!

[@philoso377]

Help me to understand this correctly. This is a manual operated clutch and need to disengage the clutch in time manually? Would the 648 lockup the threads in a disengage mode? Why?

[@joneseymakes]

Hi there, I'm not sure I understand your question? It's a friction clutch so is only engaged when you apply force to the actuator arm. The 648 is used to permanently lock the threads so they do not come undone in use.

[@philoso377]

@@joneseymakes w I was wondering this tool must be used under the full attendance by an operator to watch and to rapidly disengage the coupling as it approaching the shoulder ?

[@chrisfairbrother9197]

Not hitting the shoulder with the screw cutting tool is just practice over many years. Or, cut in reverse as you said 😊

[@joneseymakes]

Indeed! :-)

[@chrisfairbrother9197]

Just remembered; we had a Colchester chipmaster with ainjest high speed attachment fitted. You had a positive stop on the bed, and could screw cut as fast as you like with no danger of hitting the shoulder. Link…. millhillsupplies.co.uk/tools/ainjest-high-speed-threading-attachment/

[@RVJimD]

Nice video and looks like a great tool. I didn’t understand how the clutch disengagement works? I’ll watch that part again but it doesn’t seem to click in my mind. Thanks.

[@joneseymakes]

It's friction based, so when you release the actuator arm (that forces the male and female cones into contact) then the mechanism is able to slip and then free spins. Does that make sense?

[@GenePavlovsky]

@@joneseymakes The question I have is what makes the clutch disengage when the die hits the shoulder? Or is it up to the operator releasing the handle? What if you keep pushing on the handle while running up to the shoulder, will it crash as badly as with a clutch-less dieholder? Or will the cones start slipping regardless? I am just wondering how "foolproof" this tool is.

[@joneseymakes]

@@GenePavlovsky The trick it to hold it fairly lightly as it approaches the shoulder then the clutch will slip as it hits.

[@GenePavlovsky]

@@joneseymakes that's what I figured ) thanks for confirming it.

[@mdonne45]

Do you do anything to stop the chuck from unthreading from the spindle nose when the lathe is run in reverse?

[@joneseymakes]

No, I’m running a D-4 camlock chuck so that’s not an issue.

[@juliovera3826]

Que buen video y muy bien explicado, se le agradese por enseñar esto.

[@joneseymakes]

Thanks!

[@Itsdirtnaptime]

Just curious. When you flipped the die holder around, why did you indicate the raw stock portion of the part?

[@joneseymakes]

Because I wanted to keep things concentric with the features I’d just machined on the other side.