Heathkit Repair IT-11 Capacitor checker overhaul

[@binarybox.binarybox]

I've bought a C3 and IT-11 with manuals , Jordan, so I'm watching all videos on these two models. Thanks for taking the time to make them.

[@GeigerCounterVirtualMuseum]

I just bought one of these and so glad I found your video. It will be sooo helpful when rebuilding mine. Thanks!

[@denisgoulet9686]

Hi Jordan, thanks for your videos, I just got one on line in mint shape, I was wandering if you can tell me all the capacitors and there values that you have change thank you Denis

[@mikeflosse4538]

Very instructive video! I am now restoring my old IT-11 acquisition. After hearing your explanations about the sensibility of cap types, I wonder how I could even increase the sensibility in the leakage test for capacitors. The idea is to introduce a pot, so I can change a resistive value to make the test even more sensitive, affecting ONLY the cap-leakage test, not the bridge test. Any help about which resistor can be modified to achieve that goal will be very much appreciated. Thanks a lot in advance!

[@karlegonnielsen7354]

Hey Jordan. First thanks for your great videos. I like to watch them. I bought a Heathkit IT-11 2month ago. I changed all capacitors and some resistors. It working fine, but the eye tube was blurred, when I shift to leakage (much more bright at bride), but I was able to calibrate it easy. I could not live with that, so I bought a NOS 6E5. The brand is UNITED where the old one is RCA. The new eye tube is bright and fine and works fine when I test the value of capacitors and resistors. At leakage it is also bright, but it is impossible to calibrate it. Nothing happens when I turn the pots to calibrate. When I swap to the RCA tube, there are no problems. Are specifications not the same for all brands or what? What are your experience? Happy New Year

[@DrFunFong]

Does one ever have to worry about an old capacitor exploding under test?

[@retrotechandelectronics]

With a max of 600 volts on a current limiting device like this, I would say no. Most modern caps are vented if there is pressure, and the old ones are made of paper so they do not build pressure. The metal can ones are filled with tar, there is no way to provide enough energy to cause enough heat to build any pressure in my opinion.

[@MrHBSoftware]

virtually no load so very little current getting through = no explosion.. i am starting now the restoration of the same tester, will be uploading footage soon

[@adformento]

Hey Jordan, I just got one of these things at an online auction site and have been playing with it. I can plug it in and turn it on but the eyelet always stays open. If I move the switch from Discharge to Bridge it closes a little bit but still remains open. Isn't it supposed to start closed until you hook a cap up? This is with nothing connected. I thought it would help with my 5F1 clone project but now I'm kinda stuck.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Did you download the original manual for the unit to start the calibration and test procedures?

[@adformento]

No I didn't. I also got one of those Bob Parker ESR meters and I can use it on capacitors in circuit. Maybe I should check and see if there are any bad components in there first.

[@retrotechandelectronics]

Replace all electrolytics and non electrolytics since you cannot leakdown test them. Use polypro for non electrolytics and then if you like you can use this tester to check the dc leakage of the ones youve removed.