Exposure Settings - How to get it RIGHT!

[@aengusmacnaughton1375]

Thank you Peter for helping us all with our photography! I have a decent amount of experience with photography during my 56-years, but some of these "modern" features (like the histogram) seem a little like "magic" to me! So I appreciate your explanations! And if I could hop a plane and hang out with you in Finland -- that would be awesome, it looks to be a beautiful country and I never made it there when I was in Europe in my teens. So enjoy your spring there and go out and get some great pictures and share them with us -- tell us more about your philosophy of street photography!

[@kilimanjoro]

I have long used my Olympus cameras in Manual mode ... yesterday I watched this video and something you said about Aperture Priority and dialling in exposure compensation visually with histogram encouraged me to use AP ... I took some photos in AP and was pleasantly surprised.. so thank you for your enthusiasm and explanation ...

[@ahmedm.fathie6124]

Well done Peter. I like your explanations. Thank you

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks. You are very welcome.

[@doganmk6366]

Thanks for the video Peter, very illuminating.

[@certoglenn4840]

Hi Peter, I stopped the video and explained to my wife how I exposed paper many years ago in a lab. The printer was pretty good and always averaged the frame for exposure. Already having a few years exposing Kodacolor 100 and Kodachrome 64 and 100, I brought that to the lab and previewed every frame, changing exposure manually. "That flash-lit face with the rest of the frame dark from falloff, fall-off, meant no averaging here." Etc., etc. It was good experience. Thank you for telling how the new mirrorless Olympus reports over and under exposures. I've gotten somewhat disenchanted with my Nikons and haven't convinced myself to buy the small sensor. My old thinking is, larger sensor, larger pixels, more exposure latitude per sensor. Then here you come, a photographer whose work I appreciate, and you celebrate these four/thirds Olympus cameras. Anyway, thank you so much for your taking time for us. All the best to you.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks!

[@Michael-fw5ef]

I love these tutorial type videos. I hope you do more of them in the future. Thank you Peter.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks.

[@rayburn1083]

Peter, thanks to your earlier video I always use the highlight shadow red blue function and it’s the best method I’ve ever used for any camera system. Mostly I’ll ETTR as much as possible without blowing highlights. It’s like a sophisticated spot meter but of the entire frame. Normally I’ll be using fixed ISO in aperture mode and adjusting exposure compensation. It’s so quick and accurate. Thanks to you I learnt this most useful feature

[@Sir_Grumpalot]

In addition to the "blinkies" I use the often overlooked facility on the histogram of the green part of the graph. This is the meter reading of the area within the focus point; spot metering in effect. So, if you have full evaluative metering with blinkies and this green area, which is always there as it is not switchable to my knowledge, you can see exactly how different areas of the image are metering with the subject, assuming it is where you have the focus point marker, being shown in green on the histogram. All of this in the viewfinder or live screen as required. In other words all the information most people could ever want. This is also useful if you want a quick way of measuring the difference between, say, sky and land in a landscape.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks for the great input with this comment.

[@robjeeves]

This is great. Never knew what the green in histogram was for 😊

[@alaskalonghunters2990]

Peter, you're a master at this and a great communicator! Leaning so much every time.. Thank you again.. Mark

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks!

[@hurleygreen927]

APPRECIATE THESE EXPOSURE TIPS! THANKS...

[@ForsgardPeter]

Glad you like them! Thank you.

[@UnkelBMW]

Awesome tutorial keep up. I'm from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Greetings

[@physicsismagic]

Thank you for all your videos. I'm getting a lot more out of my OMD EM-5 MkII than I used to and I hope, as you say each time, is making me a better photographer.

[@gilbertwalker6769]

Peter, thank you for making another interesting and very useful video. I appreciate all the hard work you put into them!

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thank you for the support!

[@johncalbeck935]

Very helpful! This video gave me a lot of ideas about how I can get better exposures.

[@barra650]

I had a smile and had to agree with your comment on manual mode . I use manual when I need it or my camera is only manual . Cheers .

[@le_cornu]

Great video ...very helpful, thank you

[@ForsgardPeter]

Glad it was helpful!

[@pinakibhattacharyya8936]

I used Sony a7 series before and the zebra lines(for clipped highlights) in the live view is something I loved and miss it in EM1 MII...well untill now!! I thought it never existed ... Loved the video...thanks for all the good work you are doing...I am one "Fan" of yours...

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks!

[@richerich8007]

Coming from full frame and crop sensors, I was always underexposed, setting my E.V. -.3 to -.7 on the Canon system. After watching your video on proper exposure, I now shoot 95% of my photos at +1 about 3% at 1.3 and about 2% at .7. Most all my photos are shot outdoor in Alaska weather.

[@kenny75photography2]

Excellent video, Peter. It will make me want to use the histogram more in my camera for exposure. I usually use exposure value to compensate for different light and use aperture priority mostly rather than manual.

[@buyaport]

Fun fact: P, A, S and M work basically the same, as they are based on the same light metering system. In P-mode (correctly used) one uses program shift to set the desired aperture/depth of field or shutter speed/freezing of the subject. A, S and M are only really necessary, if one wants to lock either aperture, shutter speed or both for several pictures. Of course, if one just uses P-mode without program shift, this is just "auto mode" where the camera decides the relation between aperture and shutter speed...

[@ForsgardPeter]

PASM, they all work the same way as you say.

[@ianbrowne9304]

Bit of an oldish video but there always seems to be something new to learn; or re-learn again . Perfect exposure ? Not sure there is such a thing and one size does not fit all. So true Peter; Olympus cameras do make it so easy to get the exposure perfect or least close close enough perfect . Often for me now it's just one click and move on. I would hate to go backwards to old fashioned DSLR stuff ; or SLR gear !! I basically "grew up" with centre metering film cameras and that is still my preferred choice . Isn't exposure compensation a form of manual mode ? I certainly think so and so easy with Oly cameras . And for the less experienced. Use the bracketing functions when in doubt about exposure. I often bracket to be on the safe side now that I have converted back to use mostly the original Jpg files . Raw files are there but are seldom used .

[@stephenbrasure4331]

I just watched your video on exposing to the right. With the M1 Mark ii, do you still prefer to use the muted exposure setting rather than the natural setting? Have you tried using the natural setting? Thanks

[@ForsgardPeter]

The muted settings affects the jpg that we see on the screen. It makes more accurate exposure if we use that info.

[@stephenbrasure4331]

Thanks for the reply.@@ForsgardPeter

[@christinecoughlan4699]

Kiitos Peter

[@ForsgardPeter]

Ole hyvä!

[@stephankurda7397]

Hi Peter, nice video. Do you know any other Camera than from Olympus, having someting like the orange/blue over/under-exposure flagging?

[@ForsgardPeter]

No, I don't. Some cameras have so-called Zebras for flagging the overexposed areas.

[@MrWozzafive]

G’day Peter from Sunbury Australia. Thanks for your informative videos. I look forward to seeing them each week. Like you I ware glasses and I’m considering purchasing the larger eye cup for my EM1 mk2. I’m interested if you have any hints that you could share that would help someone that wares eye glasses. Regards Warren

[@ForsgardPeter]

A bigger eye cup will help to get a better view from the EVF.

[@StephenBell_video]

Great tips, thanks and subscribed!

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thank you.

[@lupitahuerta3855]

I am a beginner photographer and I own an Olympus omd em1 because I'm on a tight budget and I've learned so much from you !! I was wondering if you could explain how to get correct exposure for the sky while getting correct exposure for the subject such as a person in portrait photography when your outside in the sunlight and you don't want to use hss flash. I use A mode and when I focus on the person I get blown out skies so I use exposure compensation and go down by a stop or two and end up with an underexposed person. Can you please help with this situation I would like to know this before getting in to hss

[@ForsgardPeter]

The dynamic range is very big on a situation like that. The sensor just cannot record both the highlights and the shadows at the same time. You need to find the compromise exposure and adjust the image in post.

[@lupitahuerta3855]

Awesome! Thank you so much that clears a huge doubt I thought it was just me who couldn't get the frame right. Again, I'm a big fan I love your videos!!

[@erichcavicchiolo]

Hi Peter! Thanks for yet another very useful video. I'm trying to apply it to my E-520 :-) Since I bought the 7/14mm f4.0 I got the bug of photography... :-D !

[@hpeterh]

There is more about the Olympus histogram. The Olympus histogram has a green curve and a white curve. This has a purpose, but I do not know yet which. Also at the right end of the histogram there is a thin bar that can have orange and green color, both at the same time. This shows the spot exposure values at the focus location, so far I have read. I do not fully understand it now, I have to try it and read more. Also the E-M1X and the E-M5III now have the possibility to adjust the EV compensation in manual mode (If Auto ISO with 1/3 EV steps is active). To do this. press and hold the +/- button and turn any of the wheels. So there is a lot of new stuff now. I write this because I got my E-M5III this week and I am exploring the new stuff! Edit: So far I found by experiment, not by reading: The green curve shows the exposure of the image center. It always displays the image center this also when the focus point is off center. It is only connected to the focus point, when the focus point is at the center. This changes with spot metering, then the green histogram and the exposure is connected to the focus point. The orange bar at the right shows the amount of overexposured area in the image. If the right bar is green, this happens when the image center is very bright (and overexposured).

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thank you for this info.

[@bohauer]

Great help! Thanks Peter.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thanks for the comment. Glad it was helpfull.

[@WMedl]

Dear Peter, the histogramme on the screen Is that of the emulated JPEG which Is not very relying. The histogram of the short image Is more reliable. I shoot Always un Manual Mode with spot metering - also when shooting objects In fast mouvement - e.g. bords in flight. I learned to shoot un manual mode when learning the zone system of Ansel Adams. Here the light meter of the camera comes into play. For the Olympus 0 is zone 5 (mid grey), 1 is zone 6, 2 zone 7 etc. Mainly I expose for the main object posing it into the FOR ME appropriate zone. Of course the histogram gives me an impression if the dynamic range of the image and eventually I will change. For delicate images (with no time constraints) I try to measure at least for 3 zones. Yes, I have "expose to the right" in mind but I decide according to me aesthetic feelings, being a friend of chiaroscuro and do not mind dark areas. At the end - there is no one correct exposure and there may be a lot of unpleasing ones!

[@ForsgardPeter]

That is also a good way of making the exposure. I have found that using the flag colors is quite fast. With the flag color method, you can determine where the different zones are. It is quite close to the Adams method.

[@WMedl]

@@ForsgardPeter Dear Peter, though for average shooting this might be appropriate but for real good exposure I choose the zone(s) and may disregard any flags...

[@johnvanbarneveld5507]

Thanks Peter, I went to the video about flag colours and set my camera as you suggested. One question, does this work the same when in flash mode?

[@ForsgardPeter]

No, it does not work when using flash. You need to check your exposure afterwords from the LCD.

[@anneberitreitan1189]

Hei. I have a Olympus mark 3 and have seen that i can have long exposure in daylight but i dont understand how. Do you have a video showing us how to do that? I think it is using Live Comp with no filter...

[@ForsgardPeter]

Here is a playlist of videos about the Live Composite. kzbin.info/aero/PLDi4hF9-cy6gCDRQQ3Kqcis7lSJEYl4Hl

[@catherinetremerryn]

Hi Peter, I recently got the 40-150mm f/2.8 ED Pro withe the x3 extender for the OMD M1 M2, which I am v plsd with. Do you have any advice/tips re exposure as I am finding photos v dark, even though using yr expose to the right. Am shooting small birds in S priority , iso auto. Also finding end result grainy. Many thx for any help.

[@ForsgardPeter]

It must the exposure. I cannot think of anything else if you have used ETTR.

[@marklaurendet1861]

Thanks for a nice video, have not watch the ones you linked to as off for the day now. but is 0 - 255 what all cameras show and what does the 255 represent? I suppose what value is it measuring? I have my blinkies setup to 10-245, I think from a Rob Trek video.

[@ForsgardPeter]

255 is pure white. The setting 10-245 is good. There is still slightly room for adjusting.

[@PatrickChapmanuk]

Are you aware if the colours depicting over and under exposure are available in the E-PM1. I presume not as I couldnt find them in the advanced settings.

[@hpeterh]

Watch this video from RobTrek kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZ-mZ55trZ5no7c

[@vladbox1]

I have shot video with the new cameras for already over 13 years. ALL MANUAL This is what I do: I always underexpose one to two stops. If I can control light, two stops on highlights (say food or people indoors) if I CANT control light (say day light outside) I use the correct ND and set the zebras to 79% which usually is between 1 and 2 stops under. Of course I never go over the native ISO. This for me works perfect for I can maintain the highlights controlled (which is usually what worries me) I correct in post.

[@kennynvake4hve584]

What do you think about Sony's SLT cameras....they have a mirror but it let the light thru it..hence the mirror dont move...Do you trust them for the exposure setting....

[@ForsgardPeter]

Have never tested the Sony SLT cameras, so cannot really say anything.

[@jotasantos4931]

How to do the ETTR on E1 m3 ? Something didn't went ok like I did on my E5 M2? I have seen your video (thanks it's superb) but didn't work on E1 M3 . Any suggestion from you? Thanks in advance

[@ForsgardPeter]

It works the same way. Have you check that you have set everything correctly? Did you try to press the info button to toggle the different option on EVF and LCD?

[@jotasantos4931]

@@ForsgardPeter I will try the INFO button to toggle between the different options. After made that i really saw everything as you mentioned. Nevertheless, i couldn't make disapear the red zone although i changed my aperture and ISO and shutter speed. I have the 12-40mm 2.8 pro mounted

[@donthompson2457]

Peter I set things up as you suggested and indeed in the EVF I get the red and blue areas but, in the OVF I don't get that info or the historgram. How do I correct that ? Also when using custom settings , when I use a vintage lens with a converter in this case the OM 90mm F2 I don't get that information nor do I get the manual focus assist.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Have you tried to push the info-button to toggle the different options?

[@jnrickards]

I bought a used OMD EM5, original version, loving it. Question about the histogram, under the white bars are green bars, what do the green bars mean?

[@ForsgardPeter]

I believe it is the exposure measurement from the focusing point.

[@joseelandry4832]

I think it's the vertical level of your camera. On the right side of your screen, you will find the horizontal level a well.

[@sharonchandler2909]

Please can you help with an issues on our olympus e500? Suddenly now when looking through the lense it's very dark....any ideas why? Thank you very much

[@ForsgardPeter]

Unfortunately I have never used e500. I cannot say anything about the issue.

[@sharonchandler2909]

@@ForsgardPeter ok was worth a try...thanks very much

[@663]

Thank you for this video, I am doing mostly night photography which metering mode you could recommend on Olympus omd em1 mk2 ? I am most of the time 99% on A priority with image compensation, but I find that I lose details with higher ISO, camera chooses high ISO itself most of the times and makes image noisy, is there any way how to prevent that?

[@ForsgardPeter]

Set the ISO manually. You might need to use longer shutter speeds, but Olympus cameras have quite good IBIS.

[@663]

@@ForsgardPeter Could you by any chance do a video about it, how to shoot at low light conditions without blowing out the highlights? I think it might useful for other people as well to get a better understanding of shooting in certain conditions, do you a video tutorial about HDR on Olympus? Many thanks

[@ForsgardPeter]

That is a good idea for a video. I have made a video about HDR: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q3a9oJx_Z5yHhMU

[@1957PLATO]

As I am doing more and more street photography, I have started to shoot even in the middle of the day (the horror). The high contrast in light lends more drama to my images as I shoot mostly in black and white. The only metering I do is to protect my highlights.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Yes, the harsh shadows are underrated. If used creatively those shadows are great.

[@kb1qzh]

Hi Peter. I'm still a little confused when I would expose to the right and the post processing needed for the image afterwards. I get how but not the when. Also, do you have anything on the metering modes and when to use them? Can the position used for spot metering be moved with the direction pad?

[@ForsgardPeter]

I have not made videos about the metering modes, but it on the road map for this spring/early summer. I think it's wise to exposure to the right every time. The image needs a bit of post-processing after works, but the results are great.

[@kb1qzh]

@@ForsgardPeter i'm having to relearn processing cause i haven't done it years. This is probably why ETTR post is confusing to me. I went to garden in Sydney today and got some photos of lizard on a rock. I pushed the EV a little to the right (1 stop i think) cause it looked dark. Haven't had chance to look at it on a computer to if exposure is good .

[@vicibox]

Well I want to give a shout out to Program mode; hardly anybody understands it and most of the people who use it just think its Auto. Well no its not Auto mode, it sets the Aperture and Shutter Speed to the meter reading and allows you to control both together with the back dial. Its a modern equivalent of the block exposure control on old medium format film cameras. Yes this is difficult to use on the fly but it makes for much faster operation. Compensation is only a fine tune and i tend to set that on my left dial, setting P on the right dial on my Leica; my GX9 I use the two positions of the back dial for both (the comp dial is always getting jogged so I disable it). The beauty of P is that I can select my Apurture depending on what DoF I want as the scene evolves in front of me. This is a technique used by many Magnum Photojournalists. Its fast and allows you to follow changing scenes quickly especially on the street. Thought I should point this out as most Photographers just overlook this control and it is potentially the fastest way of working if you master it; but gosh it takes practice ;-)

[@marklaurendet1861]

Yes "P" mode is my main mode as well, but I admit I do not fully understand it. I tend to use it when I use a kit lens as it always seems to choose the widest aperture with the kit lens and since I want all the light I can get this suits me fine, I just adjust exposure compensation and ISO.

[@vicibox]

@@marklaurendet1861 Oh its simple really, its called Program mode because it takes the exposure, decides on the best aperture and locks the required speed to it and sets them as a block. Now if you rotate the back dial with your thumb it moves this complementary setting up and down so that you can play off DoF with shutter speed with a simple movement of your thumb whilst looking through the EVF. On the street it will choose an average setting somewhere in the middle usually, if you want to bring in the surroundings you can open up the DoF to include a building say then as you home in on your subject, open up the lens to soften the background. It is very rare indeed that i use any other setting, I mostly set about f5.6 but on the street there isnt often time to remove your eye from the scene. People who use this setting tend to be dismissive of people who call it Auto. Martin Parr can be scathing; what you dont trust your camera to set the right exposure, gosh its far better than all of us he he

[@Sir_Grumpalot]

Mmmm- thank you. I admit I have always dismissed P but I now realise this is worth investigating further.

[@richerich8007]

This is the way I expose my photos, thanks. As I stated in the past I shoot mainly birds, and the duck I was shooting all the white part of the bird was over exposed and the darker feathers was under exposed so now what?

[@ForsgardPeter]

You need to expose so that the white feathers are just pure white without losing detail. If the scene is very contrasty you will lose detail in the dark areas. The dynamic range of the scene is too much to get everything right. You can open up the shadows and do some noise reduction in post.

[@leeentertainmentchannel247]

b-roll to the rescue. Lol love it

[@ForsgardPeter]

It is funny because it true...

[@leeentertainmentchannel247]

Peter Forsgård indeed

[@markuskonradmeister7586]

Alternatively one can us a manual lightmeter!

[@ForsgardPeter]

Yes, that is true. I have found that the flag color method or histogram is a lot faster.

[@adarshsomankutty]

Subscribed, Sir👍

[@ForsgardPeter]

Thank you. Welcome aboard!

[@martynphillips6646]

The best exposure is the light level you want to see as the photographer. The wrong exposure is shooting exposure for anyone else. Unless you're being paid for the shoot and the client wants a certain look. In that situation you've given up overall control, that's the joy of being an amateur!

[@ForsgardPeter]

Well said.

[@Smaug1]

1) You look better with a beard 2) Thanks for the basic histogram info

[@lerssilarsson6414]

"To expose" better be carefully while using the word. ;-)

[@mrdiger170871]

hi peter, your videos are great. but in this one, your change of the camera perspective happend to often in my opinion. greetings marcus

[@ForsgardPeter]

It is always a 50/50, some seem to like when there is some changes in the camera perspective and some don't. I try wary that.

[@Eigil_Skovgaard]

1:36: "So first of all I have to define: What is correct exposure." ... I am waiting for the definition? Ok, then - In my digital photographic world the limits for detailed information lies between 12 and 248 on the exposure scale from 0 to 255 (representing pure Black and White respectively - and no matter how low or high the subject may expose the sensor, the recording will never extend beyond 0 or 255). The interval from 0-11 is for areas that need to be black, and the interval from 249-255 is for total white, glares, specular reflections that must not extend the size of a reflection. I prefer the usable highlights to be below 249, so how do I prevent that the highlights blow out? I spot-meter on an area that seems to reflect what in the old zone-system days was referred to as "Zone V" (the mid tone), same reflection as from the "neutral grey card" (18 percent). If the motive is predominantly white, I compensate accordingly. The classic example is a landscape covered with snow. The build in light meter will try to make it a grey card, so I have to increase the exposure (which for many photographers is less intuitive). If I have time, I place a grey card in the motive to measure from and to shoot a photo of. The photographed grey card is valuable in the post process as it refers to the middle color picker (128) in Photoshop f.ex.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Great info, thanks for sharing. The highest value for white depends on where the images will be used. If you intent to print the images, 249 is fine, but for online use I have found that to be a bit too grey for my likings.

[@gwine9087]

Sorry, but I am, seriously, tired of people telling me that I must have a mirrorless camera.

[@glacieractivity]

Easy buddy. I have discovered this channel today - and I do not shoot Olympus - and I do not shoot m4/3 - and I do not find that I have to enjoy professional input on any subject. I also follow Thomas Heaton - and he shoot DLSR all day long. As most landscape photographers do. I do not feel hurt there either. I also follow some excellent "hybrid" channels (that youtube have many of) - even if I have never even tested the video mode on my camera. Because there is good information to be found. Peter McKinnon released a fantastic video (or a documentary - or a short movie) about his "bucket-list still-image" - which was a fantastic and inspirational film about seizing the moment and a reflection on what many of us have - this scene that never leaves our minds). By the way - it is a bit low to accuse a professional Olympus ambassador who shares his general photographic knowledge with us for no cost to us to mention that the Olympus system has strong points? He would not have his job too long if he made every video saying that your DSLR are superior in every imaginable way? Yes - there are advantages to mirrorless shooting (one have live-view sensor exposed at all times running at full speed all the time - so one can do some stuff without lifting the mirror). On the other hand - one must pack way more batteries, for example. Every system - and every brand - has faults. I shoot Fuji - and clearly, the APS-C sensor should make me get one of their medium format cameras instead? Except it would separate me from a good AF-system and portability and a catastrophic amount of money and.... Be happy with your camera. I have been lucky to see really really good photographers taking polaroid test-shots back in the 80s and 90s. Polaroid shots that are pure art in themselves. Before they pressed the shutter of their MF (or whatever) camera that shot the image that hangs in galleries and got printed in books. Look at what the really good photographers have on their instagram. Shot with a phone. A pocket camera. And some really expensive kit, SLR, digital, mirrorless or effing Holga cameras. It does not matter. If the image is good - who cares if it is jpg straight out of camera when it is great? "The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it" (Ansel Adams). So forget feeling "told to drop your SLR". SLR was and is great. Canon and Nikon are yet to make a professional camera that is not SLR. If you want peak performance of what imagery of reality can do - get yourself a job in science. We do imagery of not only the Aurora - we image it in 3D. We take sold digital images of magnetic fields. We image the underground by using microwaves. We shoot x-rays at stuff, because visual light-waves are too long to capture really good images. We "listen" to much longer radio-waves to make images of effing black hole event horizons. We launch an effing telescope into space to avoid the problem of air. And we dig a pretty big tunnel under the Alps to "snap a picture" of the Higgs Boson. We shoot high energy x-ray particles at stuff to not only image them, but to make them back-scatter and tell us what atoms they contain. And then we use magnetic fields again to check out if the internals of the brain itself is doing OK If you want "gear" - go into science. Nobody bothers with "is it a true DSLR or mirrorless" when it comes to reality. Photography is different. It can be art. The only thing we should ponder is if digital photo is best on screen - as back-lit (on screen) light or on paper (reflective) light. Nobody should talk about in-camera moving stuff. We should talk about if the original Turner or Picasso or Mona Lisa would look better of the painters had painted on non-reflective transparents for back-lighting while knowing that also glossy photo paper is all reflective. That also old positive film was projected to screen to become reflective rather than back-lit (something that took some training back in the days of analogue film and light-tables - in how to translate the back-lit negative or positive into working in reflective light.

[@ForsgardPeter]

I am not trying to tell anyone to have a mirrorless camera. I really don't mind if someone is shooting with a DSLR. What I do is tell what advantages I find that mirrorless has over DSLR.

[@gwine9087]

@@ForsgardPeter to quote you "you have to have a mirrorless camera".

[@1972myc]

Mirrorless cameras are not for me.

[@ForsgardPeter]

Why not?

[@1972myc]

@@ForsgardPeter Don't need them. The cost is not justified. Photography has been done for years with SLR, and DSLR and they do the job. The cameras people are paying thousands of the dollars today will be around $100 and obsolete in 10 years or so.