Toyota RAV4 Transmission Filter & Fluid Change (2007 - 2012) V6 3.5

Toyota Rav4 Transmission Fluid & Filter Change 2007 - 2012
This was done on a 2011 Toyota RAV4 with a V6 3.5 5 speed transmission but is very similar to the 4 cylinder Rav4. The same procedure should be for any Toyota Rav4 between 2007-2012.

[@bobbyjolee4362]

For those who want a Complete (Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator-Cooler) fluid exchange vs an approx 40% pan exchange, the following 2007 RAV4 approach SHOULD be applicable to Most makes and models: 1.) Remove the plastic shield under the front of the vehicle. Note, new assorted plastic push-clips are recommended. 2.) The radiator cooler transmission fluid out-fall is on the drivers side approx 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID rubber hose with spring clasp clamp -- EASY to see and access! 3.) Disconnect the hose and attach an extension line to a translucent 1gal jug in an catch pan (for overflow/spills). 4.) The steel return line may drip into a second catch pan. 5.) Snuggly attach a clear extension line to the dip-stick tube with a funnel. (I inserted a clear plastic kitchen "baster" keeping the refill level from overflowing at top of the "baster"/funnel). 6.) Start the engine and put in gear (automatic) until approx 1/2 gal OLD is collected and turn off engine. 7.) Fill approx 1/2 gal NEW. 8.) Repeat for approx 2 1/2 gals until bright pink is dispensing. 9.) Reattach radiator/trans Return line. 10.) Adjust fluid level to the low side of the "Cold" mark on dip-stick (so you can top-off to the Hot mark). 11.) Drive vehicle until transmission is up to approx 115 deg. F and adjust fluid level to "Hot" mark. 12.) Reattach the plastic shield using new plastic push-pins. 13.) This should replace the Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator Cooler with ALL New Fluid. NOTE: For Sealed transmissions attach an extension line with funnel to the steel Return line (instead of the non-existent "dip-stick tube"). Happy motoring!

[@user-vw7ic7iu4n]

Excelente video saludos

[@nikitak6144]

Nice guideline. How many liters for refill is necessary?

[@harbertsand]

Well done! I would never use paper towels on the inside of the pan though.

[@alexxie1645]

Nice video. Thank you. Can you please provide the link for the new filter and gasket

[@JRESHOW]

I purchased mine at a local NAPA autoparts

[@sugarytv]

did you wait until the temperature needle on the oil indicator was in the middle? and what exactly made you add the extra 0.5 qt?

[@JRESHOW]

It wasn’t to the “hot” operating temperature. I looked into it further and have read others with the same experience- adding an extra .5 quart. Just check yours, if it needs it, add it.

[@user-ct4oy1cv7n]

Is good

[@JRESHOW]

Still good.

[@abhijitdasz]

Would you change the transmission fluid + filter on a 2011 Toyota Rav4 4WD Base with 148k miles? ... This was changed during the initial breakin (I had dealer service for 2 years). Then, all i did was regular change of oil with OEM filter, flush radiator fluid, spark plugs, brakes/rotors, shocks. i.e. basic maintenance. I was reading that filter should never need to be changed. And, if i went through that many miles without a recommended interval change i should leave the old oil as the transmission is used to the oil and new oil can cause slippage? Should i just then do a flush couple of times while observing between flushes? Should i clean the pan and leave the filter as-is and do a fill? Appreciate your input.

[@JRESHOW]

How does your fluid look? Is it still reddish? Or is it brown? Does it smell burnt if it is brown? Mine was brown looking but did not smell burnt. I did a total of 3 “drain and fills” over the course of 2 weeks. As a side note, most who do not charge their fluid start to have problems such as slippage. They wait until they have tranny problems and then address the issue. If you are not having any issues right now, a simple drain and fill is only going to be preventative maintenance (which is the best maintenance). The stories you hear about how they flushed their tranny and the tranny went out are from those who waited to long, it was already on the way out.. As for the filter, it’s totally up to you. It is a bit more work although pretty simple to do as long as you don’t strip out any bolts.

[@abhijitdasz]

@@JRESHOW Thanks for your response. It looks brown, dark brown. I smelt it, doesnt smell that burnt though. I am not experienceung slippage but mileage loss for sure. I dont seem to have any issues otherwise. I am worried if i change now at 148k will i start to see slipping issues.

[@JRESHOW]

@@abhijitdasz in my experience and my opinion, it’s good that it is not slipping. It’s not good that it’s brown. It is good that it does not smell burnt. If it’s brown it means that it is losing its velocity, which in turn could cause slipping in the future. I think you caught it at the right time. I would recommend doing a drain and fill, (drain by removing the drain plug and fill it back up) that won’t remove all of the fluid, but will add in some new and velocity. I would recommend doing this a few times over the course of a couple weeks. If you feel comfortable doing the filter too, that would also help, but I would do it on the first change, not the 3rd. Your transmission fluid will not affect your mileage. Several things could including spark plugs, clogged cat, air filter and about a dozen other things. My 2011 had brown looking tranny fluid at 174k miles, I don’t think it had ever been changed! I did 3 drain and fills and filter change and it’s still shifting great! I want at least 500k miles out of this car so I want to maintain the best I can :) best to ya!

[@abhijitdasz]

@@JRESHOW Thank You very much. Really appreciate your detailed response.

[@abhijitdasz]

@@JRESHOW BTW - you never noticed any adverse issues using the Valvoline ATF than compare to the Toyota ATF WS?