Parkside 20V 4Ah Battery from Lidl

[@christiano.4808]

5INR19/66-2 (on the case) and INR19/66 (on the individual cell) is a standard naming scheme. INR is the cell chemistry and indicates the use of Nickel, Manganese and Cobalt, as it is common for power tools cells. 19/66 means 18650 (18/65 is also commonly found), but sleeved. To account for the size of the sleeve, 19/66 is widely used to indicate that the cells are ever so slightly larger than naked 18650 cells. It's a compliance thing. And on a similar note, it's legal now for power tools to state the "maximum battery voltage", which is a very soft definition., hence the 20V/4Ah/80Wh on the case. This whole 18V vs. 20V naming business (same as 10,8V vs. 12V) came after this change was implemented in North America and the power tool companies lobbied for a consistent global naming scheme through their industry body, the European Power Tool Association. Until then it was the default, as it still is everywhere else apart from power tools, to use the nominal voltage as the defining value for your product. The funny thing is, while basically all of them agreed that this is a good thing for the 10,8V tools, they couldn't agree whether it's also a good idea for the 18V tools, so some did and some didn't change it to 20V.

[@rafadelfino]

OMG, i cant believe this prices, soooo cheap! Here in Brazil the cheapest lithium battery for power tools is like half a minimum wage! You are so lucky! Congrats on the video.

[@diamondfailer11]

I know, same in Turkey. People from EU/UK are the luckiest in the world, even if they don't realize it.

[@MrDelgrigorov]

Well we are glad you discover the difference between a colony and colonisator. All the colonisator countries had this plus, they have cheap batteries and other stuff and large salaries.

[@kwikuk]

Never has the art of watching paint dry been so appealing

[@Distinctly.Average]

Thanks for the heads up Julian. I needed 6*18650 cells to repair my crap Vax stick hoover, apparently non removable batteries that fail after 14 months are a consumable so not covered by warranty. Found the unbalance 4ah battery for half price in the Aylesbury branch so got one and harvested the 10 batteries. Vac fixed and 4 spare cells for my torch. Felt bad throwing away all the rest of the components but worked out a lot cheaper than buying the cells

[@timinoakton]

One interesting note is that the blade beside negative is normally a thermistor with a resistance to negative of 10.6KOhm. Knowing this has allowed me to bodge Makita batteries onto Parkside tools. WHen you open the tool, there is a control board with Bat+, Bat- and a terminal called "DS". Wire a 10.6Kohm resistor (easier to use a 10K in series w 620 ohm) between DS and Bat-, and then the tool will run off just the 18v +/- from the Makita Battery. Easy Peasy, and I now have an 18v pole saw running off makita batteries (my standard) for $40USD.

[@GannDolph]

Awesome info - thanks! I just imported the Parkside soldering iron into the U.S. I need to convert it to run on my Dewalt and/or Ryobi packs. I noticed the third terminal as soon as I unboxed it , and so came here looking for this info (whilst praying that it was a thermistor and not a data line - phew !!)

[@alexambro4998]

Do you know if it would be possible to charge the batteries with a regular smart charger since the balancing is done inside the pack? I have an accucel6 and wouldn't bother buying a new parkside charger for a tool i found in the trash

[@reg2590]

Julian, This is completely off topic, so sorry to viewers. I found an old 32x2 LCD display in my 'crowded' garage the other day and decided to hunt on the internet... and I found YOU. An article 'How to Use Intelligent L.C.D.s published in 'Everyday Practical Electronics' dated February 1997. Still useful to this day - thank you.

[@alanwardrop1777]

Brilliantly useful teardown! Because the Parkside batteries are staggeringly good value compared with others, I am gradually converting every 20V thing I have to use them via custom adapters, or in some cases putting the Parkside innards into other brands' battery housings. Of course that latter presents some challenges/risks in safe and efficient charging, so the more we know about the designs the better. (So far I've been winging it, monitoring charge voltage and current a bit, not leaving any cross-species pairs unattended and seem to be getting away with it!)

[@pear7777]

Yes, watch out with the charging, cost my nephew his house

[@nothingbutthetruth7900]

So is it not as simple as putting these let's say in a DeWalt pack ?

[@ML-jr1yz]

The downside is the cut off should be in the battery.

[@SNOGARDNET]

last week my local lidl had the 2ah battery and charger blister pack reduced to £5.00...bought 6 to upgrade a couple of old drills

[@nowthenad3286]

Your skills and knowledge are extremely impressive. Thanks for the video.

[@DustinWatts]

I love the font they use for the price at Lidl... makes me want to buy lot's of stuff! :)

[@nickpelov]

the metal thing is probably a current sense resistor, not a fuse.

[@lezbriddon]

just a fuse, the cells cant disconnect at high power as the pack is wired direct to the terminals.

[@cambridgemart2075]

I thought that, but on opening a pack up myself it's marked F1; I really wouldn't want to be near that pack if the fuse blew though!

[@HDRW]

I believe BigClive has established that one of the terminals is connected to the thermistor on the batteries to tell the tool the battery temperature, and when the pack voltage drops too low it open-circuits it, looking like overheat, and it's up to the tool to stop taking current - hence the MOSFET in the tool.

[@johnpm1605]

A few months back I bought 12 of the standard 2Ah ones at £7.50 each, just to replace the cells in my old Ryobi 2.4Ah packs, converting them to 4Ah in the process.

[@Zadster]

Big up to all those who were on the Big Clive stream on Saturday. I think we know what inspired this video :D

[@JulianIlett]

You know it!

[@Zadster]

@@JulianIlett Its where all the cool kids hang out ;)

[@h8GW]

Seeing the rather large selection of Parkside at your local Lidl gets me a bit jelly.

[@caskwith]

Is there a simple cut off circuit that can be bought and added into an homemade adaptor for these batteries? It's good to know they don't have this built in but a real shame. I use the Parkside 12v batteries for several projects and it's nice that I don't need to worry about over discharge as the battery handles that internally.

[@magnets1000]

I got one of the 4.5A PLG 20 B1 chargers which has a fan; the model in the blister pack is the older one without the fan AFAIK. The parkside drill comes with a hard plastic case which has a cutout to store the charger + battery but the newer charger doesn't fit (because of the fan!!)

[@Richardincancale]

6:44 What’s with transistor / MOSFET Q13 being replaced with a resistor?

[@calinolteanu8079]

Same for the battery i have on the bench right now.

[@pear7777]

This concept by Lidl is really great. The only thing that bugged me was that I have batteries without cell balancing.

[@lezbriddon]

Can you show one of these batteries, even open it?

[@pear7777]

@@lezbriddonkzbin.info/www/bejne/jXKufWlse6ySZqs

[@technologicalsingularity1788]

Because of my RC hobby background, I'm tool battry pack balancing feature ODCer just like you sir lol. I've always wondred how famous tool brands balance their battery. I know dewalt balance their battery by charger, and others do it on the battery. I want to know balancing current of each brand/ when the balaning kicks in while charging that kind of stuff. That would be very interesting video. If you don't mind to dig this tool battery balancing stuff deeper.

[@gd.ritter]

Ryobi 18v batteries (actually 21v as they're 5S) have the low voltage cut-off built in the battery so they're much easier to use in DIY projects.

[@telosfd]

I like your video. So iam generally confused about Parkside battery's and chargers and also battery tools. Usually when I want to choose a Parkside tool I avoid buying it because I'm not sure what batteries they are compatible with!

[@billconiston8091]

be interested in seeing a comparison with a makita, bosch or dewalt battery - is the extra cash worth spending?!

[@tarunarya1780]

I love the video as always. Could you help identify the fuse for replacement please?

[@DrTune]

FYI the balancing is usually done by just having an overvoltage detect and shunt transistor across each cell. If a cell exceeds (4.2v or whatever) any extra voltage just turns into heat in the shunt transistor. This allows the charger to keep charging the stack of cells until they are all at 4.2v. This is kinda inefficient, and relies on the transistors being able to dissipate the heat (so you can't charge super fast), but it's the cheapest way to do it.

[@artursmihelsons415]

Good building quality! Strange, that cut off mosfets aren't installed by design on BMS board.. Noticed marking table on side of PCB, that looks like battery capacity.. Interesting - is there some part difference on PCB between different capacity versions? 🤔 Nice battery for price! I need to go check out Lidl, finally.. 😂

[@Mariazellerbahn]

I have thought about using these batteries to power an outdoor model railway controller (20v). I'd need an inline small external fuse though in case I get a derailment and a possible direct short.

[@MrJozza65]

I just picked up a Cell Balancing battery from Lidl (PAP 20 B1) with a charger PLG 20 C1 in case that had anything special for the new batteries - it was so confusing with all the different old and new stock. I think that the charger is nothing special though, as the balancing is with the battery I assume I could just use any of my old chargers, and the balancing would still work?

[@SnekSnack]

If you have "Kaufland" market-shop in your country -> You can buy 12V batteries for "My Project" tools with 3x 18650 >2000mAh (21A) batteries, similar/better cells as in LIDL battery-packs, but cheaper. Normal price is 10 dollars, sometimes it goes for 5 bucks. That´s 1,60 dollars for 1x 18650 cell with 21A discharge and capacity around 2100-2200mAh - I gutted them, tested them and using them for my projects. You can´t buy cells for that price anywhere else. :D

[@simonhopkins3867]

Yes it is still confusing at my local Lidl. There is a right mixture of team battery's, chargers, battery's with chargers. I must have spent 15 minutes choosing the right option got home charged it up and the green led isn't working. I'm going back today and asking for a replacement or keeping it and getting at least 50% off a new one. We will see.

[@myloalex]

Charging the battery in the car from a step-up would not disconnect the charge when is 100%?

[@dedr4m]

I got 3x4 pack of these 20V packs stitched together.... This cell balancing board hopefullymake this pack a bit more safe to use (cell balance wise). Also, the cut-off is done via an external MOSFET in the tool on the 20V packs. Essentially the two middle pins are for (C)harge and (T)ool respectively. I've not played with using external FETs, though that'd be something to consider for my power-bank (Tho the FET would probably become the fuse, even a 50A FET with a 15A fuse would likely go first.

[@ftm2206]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6vHdpaGg86EgpI this guy did it

[@bananenrepublikdeutschland9043]

PAP 20 A1 from 11/2019 definitely have cell balancing. I've checked it myself.

[@lemd49]

Out of stock in LIDL online (Spain).... somebody is watching your videos here and buying up.... 🤣

[@ElmerFuddGun]

Ya, closer to 72Wh capacity. From the cells marked: 3.6V x 2Ah x 10 = 72Wh But at least they are marking watt hours.

[@adibbins]

So as a big fan of Ryobi, have you considered the 3d printed converters from Parkside to Ryobi from Thingiverse ?

[@JulianIlett]

The Ryobi batteries have internal low voltage cutoff. The Ryobi tools don't. So a Ryobi tool would drain the Parkside battery down to zero volts (with the risk of some cells going negative).

[@dval2437]

Hi @Julien, i plan to use 2 of these in series to get 40v 4ah for a diy electric bike motor kit. I'm a bit worried the parkside battery bms doesnt have a low voltage cut off though. Is there a way i can still go ahead with my plan? Thank you.

[@mrcko45]

weit, you are from GB or?

[@markdjdeenix6846]

Cells are in pairs! Welded together So cell balance how is this possible?

[@cambridgemart2075]

Cells in parallel are balanced by definition, they will always have the same cell voltage.

[@derdrolftesinn]

Please:Do you know,what the middle Pin tells the tool? The outer pins are positive and negative. If you apply voltage of 5 cells to the tool, it tells error,runs and stops. So one of themiddle pins is needet for the tool. But what does it tell the machine?A resistance from tempersture? Du you know?

[@dpotab]

Digital data is transmitted through this pin. I checked it with an oscilloscope

[@32_bits]

Followed many of your videos, all excellent. The next step could be a low RF noise high efficiency regulator to give 13.8v output from one of these packs. Probably easier just to buy a Lidl dual charger to recharge these.

[@alexambro4998]

Is it possible to charge parkside 20v batteries without the parkside charger? Since the balancing is done inside the battery, would it be ok to use a smart turnigy accucel six and hook it up to the terminals? Or will the battery not recognise it and go into protection

[@piconano]

That metal piece, is a current shunt. They can adjust the resistance by enlarging the hole. They were stingy with the conformal coating.

[@JulianIlett]

It's marked F1 on the PCB.

[@zaprodk]

It could be both. Clearly it's a fuse to stop something catastrophic from happening, but since there is no discharge FET there is nothing to use that information for. This battery pack cannot stop discharge - that is the job of the power tool if i'm not mistaken.

[@DannyBokma]

Pretty sure its a fuse... However could be used as a crude shunt as well, however there are no switching elements so detecting over currents with this shunt has no use really.

[@piconano]

@@JulianIlett If it's marked F1, it's a fuse. My bad :)

[@piconano]

@@DannyBokma The smaller one had a R001 1 W resistor as a shunt. Are you telling me the big-ass version doesn't bother with Amps? Unlikely since the usual DW01 current limits to 3.3A before shutting down. BTW, they can also sense the current, by measuring the voltage drop across the MOSFET's Source and Drain. If the RDSon is 5mOhms for example, then no use in wasting more power in a shunt.

[@MrJob91]

4 of them make a pretty good ebike battery

[@lezbriddon]

been running our ebikes that way since 2018

[@ferenchajosi2983]

@@lezbriddon How it works? Please write down for me.

[@polskasopot]

Hi, In my battery I Replace Faulty cells.Bms is still blinking ,could you help me please. Thanks

[@DeclanCarey]

Do you need a special 4amh charger to fully charge these batteries ? My charger says 2.4amh max...?

[@dominIKhs]

No you do not. It just takes twice as much time to charge as it 50% less powerful than 4Ah charger.

[@mbr8981]

What are Amps?

[@martindanielsosaperez5881]

Hi, friend. I have to change the fuse, could you tell me how many amps it is, thanks.

[@calinolteanu8079]

Perfect timing! Have got the same battery on the healing bench, brand new from Lidl, for powerbank conversion. It's unexpectedly diy friendly. Since i don't have a charger, is there any chance you could have a look at comms protocol to charger and tool? How do they activate the bms? How does the bms signal individual cell voltage out of spec? What are the threshold voltages? Thanks! Edit: current plan is to add a 5S bms board and fuseholder+fuse inside the casing (i know it already has the fuse on pcb but that is way too beefy), would seem to fit. Also to use the battery with an external additional low voltage disconnect module. If i could use the original electronics, could skip the extra bms and only use pack low disconnect. The cells seem very well balanced initially but have not tested voltages under load. Balancing function is a bit questionable for me, would like to know more details on that. Also almost no selfdischarge so i assume bms is off or deep sleep when not in use.

[@lezbriddon]

i've been looking for ways to talk to that chip for 4 years...

[@calinolteanu8079]

@@lezbriddon Thanks for the reply! Got a charger for analysis? Where did u get stuck?

[@lezbriddon]

@@calinolteanu8079 I only have a crt scope so couldn't decode data except by pen and paper and tracing it off the screen so never even tried that but spent many hours trying to find a data sheet.

[@alexambro4998]

Is it possible to charge the battery without the parkside charger?

[@calinolteanu8079]

@@alexambro4998 yes, with a dcdc module, cc then cv BUT you need to add a 5s bms

[@nickf3242]

I find these Lidl teardown vids very entertaining and interesting. Does Lidl compare more to our US Harbor Freight? Are they "cheap tools" that are good enough to do the job but are easily replaced when they break? Or is Lidl more like a Home Depot/Lowe's hardware store with supplies and wood then Parkside is the store brand? I know I commented to you a little bit about your home improvement shopping options back on ~S01E04 of the modular shed build. I just find it fascinating about the mundane experiences in a foreign land when you don't think about all the touristy stuff and think about how do the people live day to day and fix up their homes. I enjoy walking up and down every aisle at any store and discovering new things. Keep up this series! (side note, while watching I had the idea of taking one of cheapest chargers, removing all the charging internals, and using its housing as a battery interface for creating your own battery operated gadget, like an Lidl battery option for your vocoder)

[@MrJob91]

One of the most important features for battery management is a low voltage cut off. These lidl batteries are missing LVC and this is probably managed by the LIDL branded tools. Action batteries do offer LVC protection making them more suited to homebrew or adaptive use accross old tools.

[@FuelPoverty]

LIDL is a grocery store that sometimes sells stuff like this

[@nickf3242]

@@FuelPoverty Very Cool. I guess like Aldi. We have those her in FL. I've been there a few times when they were new to me back in 2009ish. I don't go regularly but think they're neat.

[@6toeNL]

@@nickf3242 Aldi is very similar to Lidl. Lidl is a budget grocery store that's in almost every EU country that also sells their own brand of power tools, garden tools, health related products etc. They're great if you want to grab some cheep tools. They're good for the price! Every week they have a new ad folder with products that they have in stock that week. That means that a battery like featured in this video is only in store for one to two weeks. If you want to know more HMU.

[@SimonCoates]

Coincidentally the new Indian CEO of Lidl UK is Balan Singh.

[@cassiya100]

Hi Julian.. I'm having issues getting the parkside X20v team batteries to power my older version Parkside performance 20v tools. I have the adaptors but with basic pos/neg connectors. it will power up for a brief second and cut off.something within the battery/tool is not compatible.. do you know what the 3rd terminal on the battery is for? how to connect to make it work? Thanks

[@MihaSun]

Hi I want to ask you if I can, I have 2battery model B1 and B3 a 2Ah battery and the control green LED turns off at 19Volts and only yellow and red remain, whereas on the 4 Ah the green turns off when the voltage reaches 17.3V, that is, on one the green turns off when the 3.9 V cell instead on the 4 Ah it turns off when the cell are 3.4 V . The only red LED lights up on the 2Ah battery at 17.3 volts, whereas on the 4Ah battery the red LED lights up at 16.5 volts, i.e. at a lower voltage. Why i have on green and red Led diverent voltage on 2Ah and 4Ah same battery model B1. I mean on 2Ah battery red is on when the cell are 3.54 volts instead on 4Ah red is on when the cell are 3.3 volts. Is could bee a defect bms or is it the different management of the BMS? Thank you

[@UpLateGeek]

The Post Apocalyptic Inventor made a couple of videos about converting old NiCd battery tools to Lithium, and he managed to find a cheap battery connector base that terminated in a couple of wires, which he mostly just attached to the tools and pretty much job done. It was for a well-known brand though, so I have no idea if you could find something similar for these batteries. It's possible you could find one that would fit after some minor modifications, but you'd have to compare the connectors pretty closely to find one that matches.

[@blattferenc9647]

There are two different files on thingiverse. If you know somebody who has a 3d printer, you can have it printed and you only have to add 2 male spade terminals, 2 wires and some glue. That is what i did.

[@nothingbutthetruth7900]

So pls educate me on if i just swap there with my old DeWalt 18v could this be dangerous when charging ?

[@JakobGross]

Hi, I am trying to use the Parkside 20V batteries instead of V-mount batteries for film equipment. As I see it I have to transform the voltage. Any hints with what I can do this easily and also keeping it compact/sturdy? Vmount is 14,8V nominal. The minimum is likely around 12 V the max 16.8V. Any tips appericated! Thanks a lot

[@ChristofTheSlow]

If I buy some of the 4ah and 2ah batteries with cell balancing, does it matter which charger I get? My store has the new cell balanced 2ah and 4ah batteries but the charger is bundled with a older non balancing 2ah battery. Is the older charger suitable for cell balanced batteries and as its bundled with an old 2ah will it charge the new balnced 4ah? I agree, it is confusing !

[@somtombanefo8749]

I'm currently in this dilemma. Rang the service hotline but alas, today is a Saturday.

[@samsungxiaomi1245]

Boa tarde tenho 2 baterias uma de 2AH e outra de 4AH. A placa tem a mesma designação LY758BX É possivel colocar a placa da bateria de 2AH na de 4AH? Obrigado

[@DrTune]

so apart from the fuse it's basically an unprotected battery pack. huh.

[@enryfrank]

Beautiful video, thank's a lot. 👍

[@ElmerFuddGun]

45 seconds in and WTF... I thought I switched YT channels to someone that doesn't know how to hold their phone for video! ;-P

[@JulianIlett]

Tiktok mode - essential when reporting directly from the front line :)

[@davey2k12]

Look out for the Bluetooth battery's I haven't found any yet 😅 Seen it on utube prob not in the UK as usual

[@josecastanho]

They move most of electronics on x20 series to the tool maybe to allow tools like the 40 volt chainsaw to work with two batteries. there are no tools using two x12 batteries

[@BarefootBeekeeper]

I'd like to be able to use these on my DeWalt tools, as they are half the price of the originals.

[@jlucasound]

Mommy! That man is talking to the batteries! Cocoa Puffs? Ya! Bye, Mister. ;-)

[@JulianIlett]

Haha. Mummy, that man is vlogging in a public place. Such bad manners :)

[@huubpeters7972]

That could make using an adapter quite dangerous. The other brand may not have it's protection in the tool & charger.

[@JulianIlett]

My thoughts exactly. Making adapters with a 3D printer is not without its risks.

[@lexpee]

Parkside batteries have become quite expensive. 2020 I bought a 20V 4 AH battery for €19.98 for that money you now buy a 20V 2AH battery.

[@makingcookingfixing]

you meant the other wau around I assume?

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

Lidl shop lotta videos! I'd love to shop at lidl but there are none near me, Aldi get to Lidl so mouch. :-)

[@Mark1024MAK]

I have a Lidi store near me, but it does not often have the goodies that Julian finds in his local store…

[@adamkostan8671]

Nice vid Keep them coming

[@lint2023]

Want Lidl in US!

[@Graham_Langley]

You've got over a 100 in east coast states.

[@KJW648]

INR identified on Samsung 18650 batteries. 😁

[@lezbriddon]

rumoured to be Q series samsung chemistry oem re-wrapped

[@tarunarya1780]

I tried to make an adapter for my new Trend 18S circular saw. The Parkside battery almost fits but did not slide in enough. I made 2 short connection leads with spade terminals at the battery side, 3x0.75cm2 wire per lead,going to copper strips which inserted around the power tool blades. Unfortunately I shorted them for 1s or so when removing them from the tool, There is no power at the terminals. The battery led check does not cause any lights to come on. Opening the battery: The fuse is broken having looked at kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2evioGXaJKhb5I where he solders the fuse back (seems dodgy) The cell voltages are maintained. You mentioned the fuse between the ground pin with the circle on it - looks te same I figure that the fuse would have gone but does not look different. Does the ?brown liquid/???resin on the PCB means the PCB is toast despite the fuse? The cells are cool I have put the battery in a stainless steel pain with a lid on, in case of issues. Any advice about possible fixing / replacement of the board / aedvice would be appreciated.

[@petrokemikal]

The fuse is a last resort to save the cells from damage, if it is damaged then you either have to find a replacment or scrap the pack.. Its not safe to use without the fuse, they put it in because the battery has no other protection for it.. DONT be tempted to solder across the fuse to get the pack working..

[@tarunarya1780]

I haven't but considered automotive fuses, SMD fuses. I eally wanted to identify the same fuse but had no joy.@@petrokemikal

[@petrokemikal]

Yeah its not worth messing with unless you either find out what it is so you can replace it... Also just a note on adaptors.. There not really supposed to be used with high current draw power tools.. circ saws/grinders/ ect.... They could melt around the connectors.. I just so happened to be looking at a comercial made one only last week, and it said down the bottom of the page in small writing, Dont use over 10a on this adapter...!!!.@@tarunarya1780

[@agarceran]

Damn just got a PAP 20 A3 and charger to experiment , and maybe buy some cheap tools later...

[@Andy-nu1dw]

can you make a video about Draper 20v storm force batteries and compare them to the parkside because they look the same from the outside

[@Produkt_R]

Damn, I was using a home made adapter assuming they would cut the supply when to voltage would get to low. Be warned

[@19janiboy96]

This battery pack is perfect for powering a TDA8932 ampflifier into a 4 Ohm Speaker

[@jlucasound]

Wow! Really? 4 Ohms. That is a racetrack of current! (2 Ohms is like Concert Level!). I have some 4 Ohm speakers and (when driven properly) they sound incredible. Very powerful and clean. Only 6".

[@jlucasound]

Julian!!

[@CSTRSK]

#4V Means 4 Amp version 🤔

[@nutsnproud6932]

Andreas sent me.

[@technologicalsingularity1788]

Dewalt and milwaukee also don't bother to put in mosfet in their battery. Maybe to deliver maximum current without voltage drop. I think that's some what american thing lol. Almost all of american tool review video have some kind of "V8 muscle car drag racing" vive. Makita has mosfet in the battery btw. Ryoby has to have it in the battery for old ryoby tool compatibility. Bosch is most fucked up because balancing aside, they don't even check individual cell voltage in low capacity battery.

[@cgmarch2359]

maybe Makita had mosfet in bat. the lxt ones do not seems to have it anymore.. unless they are hidden :]