Jupiter Planetary Stacking Autostakkert Demo

This KZbin video demonstrates how to stack the main planets like Mars, Jupiter and Saturn in Autostakkert. I also demonstrate how to process the Wavelets and Colour Balance in Registax 6.
I'm no expert at this yet, but I have been getting some good consistent results.
I forgot to mention the following during the video.
The video was acquired using an 8 inch Schmidt Cassegrain Telescope at f/20 (x2 barlow lens) on a HD Equatorial Wedge that is Polar Aligned and Unguided.
The actual number of frames was 3883 and not 3881, nevertheless the answer remains the same at 582 frames stacked.
Use 2 minutes of video as the maximum on Jupiter and for Saturn, 3 minutes maximum due to the rotational effects of both planets. If longer, it will result in a blurred image. Both planets rotate at around once every 10hrs on their axes.
Make sure you Zip your files using a lossless file compressor. 7 Zip is very good at this. If you don't use a lossless file zipper, then you loose important information in your video file, for example you may lose colour information. I learnt the hard way; quite a few of my good videos of Jupiter with the Red Spot were spoiled when I used the standard zip utility on my Windows 10 Laptop. I reopened my zipped files and reprocessed them only to find that the colour was gone.

[@anvikshiki]

Emanuel, this was a really great tutorial, so thanks very much! It is sometimes difficult to find videos that just take one through the step-by-step process and the pertinent settings. Many tutorials have lots of theoretical explanations and suggest such a wide range of possibilities that it's hard to know, by the end, what to do with one's own images. It's great to learn the theory and possibilities, but the nuts and bolts of the process are so important. Your tutorial, and your willingness to share your settings and filming recommendations were just what the doctor ordered for me! Incredibly helpful. Thanks again!

[@manolipoli348]

Thank you Doug for your positive feedback 😀 Have fun.

[@akacagen]

Fantastically presented. Finally found someone who could explain how to use Autostakkert and Registax thrown in. Thank you matey.

[@manolipoli348]

CaGeN M you are welcome 😀

[@stephensastrobalcony9347]

As a newbie in this ‘space’, this was a great video to help me with processing the data I captured of Jupiter this my month. Now to put it to use and see what I can produce!!

[@manolipoli348]

Good luck

[@lax1mxb]

I just came across your tutorial and you saved my image of Mars with your tips!! Thank you!

[@manolipoli348]

Glad it helped 😀

[@davepastern]

thank you very much for this excellent tutorial, greatly appreciated for us planetary imaging newbs.

[@manolipoli348]

You’re welcome, glad it helped.

[@dankahraman354]

Best video on planetary image processing....

[@manolipoli348]

Dan Kahraman thank you 😊

[@dettie1948]

Used both these programs for a while but really picked up a couple of goods tips from your presentation, thanks for that!

[@manolipoli348]

David Ettie you are welcome :)

[@manolipoli348]

Cheers 😀

[@taffjones6626]

That was a huge help. My first image of Jupiter actually looks like Jupiter now. Many thanks

[@manolipoli348]

Taff Jones that’s great to hear. You are welcome.

[@tangospace4579]

Thank you, after 5 yrs having the program finally understand. Good job. Tks for share

[@manolipoli348]

Tango Space thank you. Have fun 😀

[@manolipoli348]

Acht Vier my polar alignment was very good, I got used to the alignment process with my mount and was able to track very well.

[@manolipoli348]

Acht Vier it would drift slowly over the 2 minutes.

[@manolipoli348]

Well not really, it was polar aligned and my alignment was good enough to keep Jupiter in the field of view over a 2 minute period.

[@tangospace4579]

@@achtvier873 with planets you don't need autoguider

[@reflactor]

Great tutorial! Thank you.

[@manolipoli348]

Thank you :) Glad it helped.

[@martinhiggins9814]

Thanks for a really usefull video. Just got a camera and downloaded Sharpcap and Autostakker and started to feel very confused! Much more confident now. Cheers

[@manolipoli348]

Martin Higgins thank you. Glad it has helped you.

[@johnhawk8624]

Thanks, great tutorial! One thing that also helps is RGB align in Registax especially when planets are lower in the sky as are Jupiter and Saturn for the next few years in the Northern Hemisphere.

[@manolipoli348]

Thank you for your feedback and advice John. Much appreciated.

[@detlefschmidt7098]

Great presentation and thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge.

[@manolipoli348]

Thank you

[@Lermer07]

Thanks for sharing. Subbed

[@manolipoli348]

Awesome, thank you!

[@johndoiron9615]

Thanks for the tutorial. I'm new to having a telescope at age 54, and will be taking my first astro pictures soon, with my Samsung phone and adapter. All this talk of "stacking" is intimidating, but I will give it a try.

[@manolipoli348]

John Doiron good luck 😉

[@jkjb2007]

Excellent tutorial. Thank you!

[@manolipoli348]

Thank you :)

[@captaincruloc3200]

New to this, captured Venus in SharpCap using my Svbony.....and this tells me how wrong I've been going about processing. Thanks man.

[@manolipoli348]

Silver Cruloc you are welcome

[@cdoughertycd]

Thanks Emanuel so much for your video. I have access to a 30" Newtonian reflector and have only taken singles with it due to I have never stacked anything. I think I can do it now thanks to you, once the winds stop where the telescope is located.

[@manolipoli348]

Good luck with it. I’m jealous, wish I could use it 😀

[@hypersphereengineering6015]

Is the 30 inch Telescope motorised? Because keeping Jupiter on the tiny CCD chip is challenging.

[@cdoughertycd]

@@hypersphereengineering6015 Yes, it is motorized.

[@hypersphereengineering6015]

@@cdoughertycd Impressive. Is it Equatorial or Alt Azimuth or Fork?

[@JustSamOfficial]

Good Video...Thanks for your tips.

[@manolipoli348]

Sam Andrews Chronicles Thanks Sam.

[@manolipoli348]

Cheers mate 😀

[@denodan]

You can use default on wavelet and go into denoise and de ring setting

[@shoppersplace]

Beautiful tutorial. I use a C8 and a meade 6mp camera. No barlow. My image is a lot less detailed. What kind of camera are you using? Thanks

[@manolipoli348]

Marc Hoffman thank you Marc, I’m using a ZWO 224mc

[@ldb45]

JEESE nice last results!

[@manolipoli348]

Thank you

[@benjaminrigby5609]

Thanks mate, helped big-time!

[@manolipoli348]

Benjamin Rigby you’re welcome 😀

[@manolipoli348]

Cheers mate 😀

[@manolipoli348]

Cheers 😀

[@dalep2842]

Thanks for this tutorial! great information!

[@manolipoli348]

Dale P thank you 😊

[@denodan]

Why not just use registax to do the lot as you can adjust for be frames, etc with the same type of graph

[@KermitSF]

Question: what frame rate did you use and at what gain? Bc for me, when I do 150fps for 1 minute I dont get 9000 frames but always 837. What's the reason for that

[@manolipoli348]

Hello. It comes down to the limitations defined by your camera specifications and the limitations of your computer hardware. If you shoot at a resolution that is less than the maximum resolution of your camera you will achieve a faster frame rate and hence you will capture more frames. It is beneficial to shoot at a region of interest rather than the maximum resolution as you will achieve a faster frames rate and you will capture more frames as a result. For my ZWO 224mc Jupiter image I used a capture area of 1304x976 using raw8 at .avi colour space. At 309 gain at 0.11887second exposure. I used Sharpcap software to capture frames. If I used a region of interest of 800x600 I would have achieved more frames at 102.9fps at 12Bit ADC and 241.2fps at 10Bit ADC. I wanted to attach some snapshots of the metadata for my image and of my camera’s specifications supplied by the manufacturer but it won’t allow me to in this thread. Your camera manufacturer should supply specifications for a frame rate achieved by a certain resolution. You can image at a faster fps rate if you choose high speed mode (10 bit ADC). Your camera should also support region of interest ROI which decreases the image size and increases the frame rate per second.

[@johnhill1470]

Thanks, this has helped a lot.

[@manolipoli348]

Glad it helped!

[@mcasualjacques]

thanks

[@robertovolpini9359]

hi, great job! what about the used equipments?

[@manolipoli348]

Thanks Roberto, t

[@robertovolpini9359]

@@manolipoli348 hi Emanuel, what equipment did you use for this nice result?

[@manolipoli348]

@@robertovolpini9359 I used a Celestron 8inch CPC with a x2 barlow lens on a HD Celestron Equatorial Wedge unguided. I used a ZWO 224MC camera.

[@robertovolpini9359]

@@manolipoli348 thanks Emanuel, enjoy your sky 👍

[@jeremeygloyd2894]

Man for some reason I'm struggling with others without O stacker and register stacks and all the others

[@manolipoli348]

Sorry to hear Jeremey.

[@jeremeygloyd2894]

@@manolipoli348 thanks for that. I think I might have something set incorrectly like the file type or something like that. I just need more experience I think I'll figure it out soon. But I love going out every chance I get.

[@wimjongman]

Thanks!

[@manolipoli348]

Glad it helped :)

[@mikebelanger4165]

Unfortunately, my RegiStax 'freezes' about a minute into the processing and won't let me continue.

[@manolipoli348]

Sorry to hear, hope you solved the problem.

[@manolipoli348]

Thanks Sam 😀

[@leep26]

Hi Emanuel I am struggling to get my videos to open on this software. I've reduced my video to 2 minutes and rendered as mp4 and then I've tried converting to avi using vlc player but in both formats all I get is a grey screen on the right hand window..... any ideas??

[@manolipoli348]

Hello Lee, in the right window have you tried to zoom or pan inside it or expand the box. It might be there, you just need to try the above. Hope that works.

[@leep26]

@@manolipoli348 hi mate. Thank you for your reply. I've been banging my head all day on this but finally cracked it using pipp to create the avi file which autostakkert recognises. Results from some moody filming are fantastic after a tweak in ps.

[@manolipoli348]

Thats great to hear, yea PIPP is good for converting vids.

[@biswa145]

What is the full form of COG, written in brackets beside planet!

[@manolipoli348]

Biswajeet Mishra it means centre of gravity. If you hover over it, a tool tip should pop up indicating what it does. Hope that helps.

[@hypersphereengineering6015]

You Mentioned your camera doesn't have a IR/UV filter but the ZWO documentation suggests that your camera and my ZWO Asi120MC-S camera both have a D21 UV IR-CUT protect window built in to protect the sensor from humidity and dust. So whats the difference between a UV/IR cut filter and a D21 UV IR-CUT Protect window? check this page on ZWO website astronomy-imaging-camera.com/product/zwo-protective-window-asi-cameras

[@manolipoli348]

My camera did not come with a built in uv ir cut protect window. It came with a normal protect window. The link you showed me is the link to purchase one of their uv ir cut protect windows for your specific camera. I had to buy a uv ir cut filter for my camera.

[@hypersphereengineering6015]

@@manolipoli348 ok I see what you mean. Now I've got a question. I borrowed a ZWO 294MC Pro camera off a mate of mine and when I photographed various nebulae (lagoon, ETA Carina) I'm noticing unusual colour and not as much red as I would expect. Now the UV/IR filter would block undesirable wavelengths and improve the colour. Have you got any comparison photos with and without the filter to show the difference by any chance? I'm even thinking of putting a H Alpha filter in front of the sensor to bring out more red.

[@manolipoli348]

@@hypersphereengineering6015 unfortunately I don’t have comparison photos. But I do know that buying a an Astronomik CLS CCD filter for the 294MC Pro is recommended as it gives the correct colour balance. I bench tested my camera during the day and imaged an object with colour not too far in the distance and saw the image with and without the CLS filter and noticed the colour correction was good with the filter on. You can try this with other filters of your choice to see if the colour correction is proper 😉 I use my Astronomik CLS CCD filter even when I image in dark skies. It gives me correct colour balance and good contrast. Hope this helps.

[@ajToncek]

Thanks a lot

[@manolipoli348]

IToncek you’re welcome 😇