Step by Step Video of Changing a 99-04 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rear End.

[@edwardmalloy5424]

I really am impressed with how thorough and prfessional your presentation was thank you

[@chopp66]

Awesome video thanks Dex

[@dexjs]

Hope it helps bud!!

[@jhama78]

Keep all the content coming Dex, Love seeing your solutions to all of the obstacles you run across both in the shop and on the trail.

[@mbleznyk1]

great video Dex!

[@jimbo2648]

Definitely a "do it yourself " way to bypass rebuilding the rear end... thanks for the video man

[@scaletrailers80]

Hell yeah man keep up the hard work and the good tips and tricks!

[@JamesElliott-mu1kv]

I'm the guy you helped. Mines even red with the sloppy pinion. Rear end is out new one is going in tomorrow, much thanks. To be clear tho I knew to take the tires off.lol Took me 3hrs tho not 20mins.

[@shozdott]

dude you're the real deal , and channel will boom fast imo . plz keep it up .

[@dexjs]

I appreciate that!

[@brandonsearle990]

You should find a way to get that tool of yours out there.

[@Rattleax]

I will definitely be using your video as a reference when I try to replace one for my friend who is disabled. I hope it goes well.

[@thelonewrangler1008]

I'm more of a TJ guy, but most of the mechanicals are the same. I like your style of figuring out how to do things by yourself which is exactly what Im usually doing so I know you'll have some things to teach me. Thanks for sharing what you do

[@CharlesSharp-ry4er]

Thanks Dex,I wouldn’t know what do without you

[@keithmorgan266]

Thank you for this video. I am going to be swapping my rear end here soon. Got a 99 WJ with a D35. Found a set of Quadra Drive axles so swapping to a D44A and D30 with Verilok. Or would you find an open D44A and put in another type of limited slip or locker. It is an overland build, so a lot of highway miles along with offroad. The axles are out of an 04 WJ with 135k miles. Love your thoughts.

[@MelvinSargent-s2j]

Good job young man

[@jake83643]

Great video. Thinking of giving this a shot on my beloved 2000 gc come spring time!

[@tsmith578]

That's really cool that you like to sell parts that are complete I know what you mean about buying a used engine or transmission or something, And it is all beat to heck a has everything cut. And the darn thing about it is, it often takes the same amount of time to unplug or unbolt something as it takes to cut it, sometimes it takes longer to cut. You ever think about selling a differential with a new gasket and the gear oil to change it. And just adding the cost to the price of the differential?? I have seen quite a few times that people buy used parts from a salvage yard and then they don't change the oil or filters, and then they have issues with the parts and blam the salvage yard for selling them something crappy. When they them selves are caused the problem by using the stuff with old or contaminated oil or plugged up filters.

[@flyinglpranch3886]

Great Video! But, "Take the tires and wheels off?" Does that mean I need to go back and "re-swap" the Jeep Rear End I just changed? ...I sure hope not! 🤣 I have a couple of thoughts that might help someone "doing it on jack stands" as it were: 1. If, unlike the author of this video, you don't have a whole inventory of Replacement Rear Ends (potentially with all the brake parts included) to choose from, you may be looking at swapping those parts from your old axle to the replacement (or, if they are in bad shape, replacing them). If that is the case, consider removing ALL the brake parts while the old rear end is still on the vehicle -- to include the parking brake. If you do that, you'll disconnect the parking brake cables at the axle-ends and can disconnect the ABS Sensors there as well. Follow up by removing the bolts for the mounting clamps that hold the parking brake and ABS cables to the "Wishbone" and you can just leave those "behind" on your vehicle. This helps a LOT because you don't need to disconnect the parking brake cables inside the cabin, or tinker with an old, "plastic" electrical connector to disconnect the ABS Sensors. You also don't have them "underfoot" or risk damage when moving the old axle out or the new axle back... 2. If you had a problem because all the rear end grease "mysteriously disappeared" between one LOF visit and the next, disassembling the Parking Brakes might resolve that as well. We live along a dirt road. The rear end in our 99 Jeep developed a leaky seal. As the oil dripped out, it collected dust and dirt -- into a large "clump" inside of the parking brakes -- which is why we did not notice the "drip" until it was too late... 3. If you are working on Jack Stands, a couple (2) or more (2+) "floor jacks" can be beneficial. With the lift, DEX Jeeps was able to lower the rear end to stands and raise the Jeep off of the rear end. With Jack Stands, you are going to be supporting the Jeep from the frame and, once the springs, et cetera are disconnected, the Jeep is *staying* there until the work is done. Multiple jacks will let you raise & lower the rear end and tilt and angle the axles as necessary for removal and/or replacement. 4. Putting the Wishbone back into the Jeep before the axle is "the way to go"! BUT (notice, this is a BIG BUT?), if you cannot lower the Jeep onto the axle, you'll need to raise the axle up to get the ball joint bolt through the hole in the Wishbone. Again, multiple Jacks make this easy. Also, if you decided to leave the parking brake and ABS cables with the Jeep, the time to fasten them to the new wishbone is *before* attaching the axle. 5. Consider getting new parts to replace the "ancillary" items. A new Wishbone and Control Arms and Ball Joint can be had (as of 2024) for about $150 or less. In our case, the Wishbone was quite rust pitted -- to the point where we were concerned about its structural integrity. Buying new was a "no-brainer." Do be careful though. My favourite Supply House sells a ball joint that has a place for a zerk fitting; but, even with an angled zerk, it is *extremely* difficult or virtually impossible to lubricate that fitting post installation. We opted for a "permanently lubricated" ball joint instead. (I personally dislike not being able to grease a moving part; but, sometimes, compromises are necessary.) Again, this is a GREAT video. For sure, the Order of Operation alone is worth the time to watch!

[@eriklarsfolk2131]

Hey buddy I love your vids! The where you swapped new pistons in really helped me do my 2000 xj so thanks a million for that! Just wondering if the rear end of a 94 will be compatible with my 2000? Thanks in advance

[@SpecialFXKing]

Thank you man!

[@davidchappelle6480]

Fixin to Gut a 99 4x4 an put it ALL on my 2001 2x4 ,motor, trans an All ! EXCEPT for that front driveshaft

[@brandonfujikawa133]

Question for you brother I got a 04 Wj unfortunately came 2x4. I had pulled a front stock axle from the pick a part transfer case drive shaft and shifter lever assembly. Is there another piece I need for the transmission to the tcase? I've watched your video a few times but still not 100

[@richardlerch2873]

Seems like you know a lot about wjs could you possibly give me some advice on a problem I'm having?

[@jorgezuni2818]

1990 jeep camanche Dana 44 rear axle 3:55 ratio .. can i use it on a 2004 Jeep Wrangler X 4.0L with rear Dana 35 with 4:11 true track LSD ?

[@arronhale280]

i will probably never do ths job but i want the knowledge

[@canaan8113]

Am I able to take a Dana 35 from a wj and put it in my xj because the rear diff blew. And is it a universal swap

[@brandonpriest3604]

Dsmn. Thanks man saved me a bunch of time an $$$

[@dexjs]

Was debating not doing these videos anymore. Thanks much

[@jaredperreault9459]

Shit… how much for a 2001 grand Cherokee rear end? And do you ship?

[@rgriff6403]

😊

[@matthewggreen]

Loud noises