How is my Homemade Cyclone Holding Up 2 Years Later?

[@PetterBruland]

1) Saw a really nice dust collector. 2) Learned about Sikasil for future projects. Thank you very much!

[@thaitiger]

It’s very helpful to show what went right as well as what went wrong. Thank you for being so forthcoming. Most you tubers only show the highlights. It helps to see all sides good and bad so we don’t have to waste time and money going back to make corrections. Thnx again!

[@macksuniga2517]

Justin, Can't thank you enough for sharing your discoveries for this build. I plan to modify my shop-vac base on your design. Great space saver that not only looks good but works good. Thanks again.

[@porgguy4962]

This is the best homemade system I've seen yet. Well done.

[@Billlupton]

if you use washing up liquid on your finger when smoothing the Sikaflex, it leaves a very nice finish, been using Sika for nigh on 20 years great product, great video, thanks

[@britzwickit]

in so many videos you see people hastily do stuff the first time to make a video deadline. this is the opposite, lovely content! subbed

[@vikitheviki]

I think this is the nicest cleanest, no pun intended, build I've seen on utube. Good job!

[@DavesShed]

Thanks for the video and the 2 year follow up. Yours is a really nice build and your original video was very clear about the steps. What I like most about your build is the compact end result. That said, re-consider making the bucket taller. It is not about capacity. It is that you need enough space to allow the dust to settle rather than be agitated by the vortex. It will also make the vortex more efficient.

[@composer1663]

Thank you for doing the follow-up and for telling it like it actually is.

[@petermarsh4993]

Dear Justin, I think that your cyclone vacuum system is the best I have seen on KZbin. What sold me was you actually came back after two years, made some critical observations and where you could fixed the problems. It’s rare to make something perfect on the first go and yours is a reminder of that. Thomas Edison took about 40,000 goes before he made a successful light globe. Well done.

[@JustinDepew]

Appreciate the comment. Thanks Peter!

[@allenwilson6585]

Edison didn't, his engineers did. When he said invention is 1% inspiration and 99% perspiration, it meant his 1% idea, and his engineers 99% sweat!

[@colossalbigfoot256]

Sorry I posted on build video before seeing this. I knew you were a smart guy before I seen this. You posted exactly what I asked for. Thanks again!

[@TushhsuT]

just commented the first video :) Just made a month ago my cyclon-add-on for a normal vacuum cleaner, using China cyclon from ebay. Works awesome! Stones, sand, dust - all comes inside. Changed the VC bag only once, because it was full of tiny dust particles. So cool to see what is really happening inside! Awesome design, although there are some problems I saw discussed on forums - static electricity!!!! because of plastic chamber and that VC can collapse it if the input will be suddenly closed.. Tried with mine - the plastic colour bin, which I use as a collector, start to collaps at half a speed of VC :) So one need a safety valve and metal chamber for a dust.. However, as I see, you did not catch any of these problems or at least they are not pronounced.

[@JayKughan]

Glad to know your dust collector is still going. Congrats man.. 🙂👍

[@davidbryanwoodworksandmore]

Your videos are very inspiring and I love what you have built in your videos. Thank you.

[@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230]

Justin, Thank you for this demonstration of the two types of silicone. I need to buy some adhesive myself to seal the gaps between the dust collection piping and a wood wall where the pipe enters my shop from a separate "dust collection closet" that I built onto the back of my shop. I wanted the DC outside of the shop, but also accessible for cleaning the barrel out dust barrel out when full. I also place my compressor from California Air Tools in the closet. The model I have is the California Air Tools 4710SQ Ultra Quiet & Oil-Free Air Compressor is designed to be one of the quietest air compressors in the industry having only 65 decibels of sound. The powerful 1.0 HP motor operates at only 1680 RPM creating less noise and less wear. The Oil-Free Dual Piston Pump System is engineered for high performance and durability and suites my needs as a hobby shop just fine. The CAT-4710SQ Air Compressor has an Oil-Free Dual Piston pump designed to have a life cycle before wear of 1000 Plus hours compared to other comparable air compressors with life cycles of 500 hours or less. so it's in the closet only to save some room in my 10x16 shop. By the way, If you are looking for a quiet compressor I highly recommend this brand to you and your viewers. It's not expensive ($140.00) and it is of high quality as well. I purchased mine from VW Express who offers free shipping which is a big saving because it weighs 43 lbs. Other places such as the big box stores run specials on their air compressors every once in a while.

[@JustinDepew]

I have actually been thinking about getting that compressor or another model from California air tools. Thanks for the lead on vwtools.

[@NMETSGChan]

Your homemade cyclone is one of my favorite DIY videos and I actually built mine base on your design! Great follow up on your built! Good job!

[@eltoronegro]

Nice to see an update

[@zenzaleni]

Thank you for your easily followed descriptions of the making of the HM Cyclone and dust collector. Your voice is very clear and I understood it all. Often the accent has me a bit confused.. Cheers Regards Barry

[@geraldplatzner4014]

I see you finally got a tablesaw. Good for you they come in handy.

[@ShelliLoop]

Why not wrap whole thing with sound deadening blanket. Or do you have to watch dust inside? Leave a covered window to check when it’s full.

[@MNCasaPro]

Great follow up video!!! Thank you.

[@nikostis69]

You can increase the efficiency by making 3 major upgrades... 1. make it taller 2. make the diameter smaller 3. make it tapered towards the bottom This way the dust will spin faster and therefore less will go through the top.

[@andrewnielsen3178]

Also I notice that the dust in the lower chaber is still agitated and spinning which would help get dust on the filter. You may consider putting strakes inside the bottom bin to stop the spinning. Say four 2 inch wide slats fixed to the wall at 90 degree spacing.

[@lukemorden6475]

@Ivan Walker 90degrees around the side of the bottom chamber (90-180-270-360)

[@andrewnielsen3178]

@Ivan Walker 4x90 deg = 360 deg

[@dadygee]

9:28 mix water and dishwashing soap in a spray bottle.. spray over the bead and the seam will only stick to where you want it to stick. But if all you want is a good, solid bead and spill is no issue just go for it! :) Great vid buddy!

[@kenkoss7921]

Justin,,one of the tricks is to allow the silicone to cure half way then finish the tightening sequence to create a type of gasket,,good luck with your projects

[@cerebralvision]

I put a filter bag in the chamber that has the filter. That way all the very fine dust that escapes the cyclone chamber goes into the bag. The filter never needs cleaning then and you never lose suction strength.

[@joelblauvelt5062]

Fantastic job on the project and the video! Thank you for sharing!

[@TheGbow0704]

Thanks for the heads up on the sealant

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

Great work Justin and a lesson learned as I to thought regular silicon would stick. I’ll file that away for future reference. Cheers mate, Stuart 🇦🇺

[@MiniLuv-1984]

Very good info - thanks. I was expecting you to do the noise test after you applied the Sika Sikasil.

[@XSLAWX]

Hi, I was thinking would be possible to instal cyclone filter like yours inside Nilfisk Multi II 30 T Inox 30L stainless steel tank? without external bin? (put divider inside 30l tank, cyclone at the bottom and filter at the top)

[@ewanbarton4253]

How old is it now?

[@JosephMcPhail]

I need to make something like this for my shop. Looks good, really like the videos.

[@Mikeeey01NZL]

Nice work, chuckling about the bit needing another Vac to clean the other Vac :)

[@mcoelho8659]

Very nice job! I was wondering if you would use this VC to clean that other VC you used to clean this one and so on!😅

[@emmilianosanchez736]

can you explain me, why the in tube have to be placed in that position? They can't be placed under? over the container...

[@unogazzy84]

Nice update but is the squeal still a problem?

[@JustinDepew]

all gone! Back to normal

[@biaritzsiroko6117]

Very nice video but how to improve this thing, I mean that I can collect the large dust particles ok.. but I want to be able to collect the super fine dust!

[@LarryDMitchell]

I just finished watching the original build and was happy to see the update. You mentioned the fine dust and I'm wondering if that might have something to do with static electricity and the plastic? I have no idea how to eliminate it and I love the clarity of both chambers. GREAT JOB!

[@JustinDepew]

Thanks Larry. I bet you're right that static electricity is a factor in helping the fine dust stick to the plastic.

[@FunnyBunnyShowNYC]

Great update. Thanks. But I think your peel test had to be done on a thin layer of silicone that has been removed from red paint with a razor blade. I know silicone does not stick to old silicone, but I don't know if this SIkasil does. I hope it holds up.

[@steveweckel6279]

Well done Justin. The best lessons are learned from the mistakes we make.

[@raaah]

Thanks for the update

[@John-tq4bf]

Justin I saw another video about shop vacs and he used simple off the roll hand towel with couple rubber bands to hold it over the filter like a safe and only had to shake or replace towel occasionally.

[@millanferende6723]

Would it help if you used a vacuum bag on the top chamber?

[@rickodell6095]

Used those on a soot vac, works good for fine dust, just dump the bag when full.

[@lancerudy9934]

Do you sell them to your viewers?

[@andymckenzie8031]

This is a fantastic design! I've been trying to figure out what to do for dust collection and shop cleanup, and trying to find a way to avoid having to buy lots of short pieces of hose. This looks like a pretty good option. I'll want a bigger collection space and a slightly different baffle, since a lot of what I vacuum up is shavings from hand planes rather than dust, but it looks like an excellent starting point. Thanks for the video! Also, if you put some sealant around the top of the baffle (where you forgot to put it originally) it won't be as good as on the lower edge, but it should still help some.

[@trustmeppl]

Good to see you back. I'm liking the small shop space.

[@WilliamEades_Frostbite]

Little suggestion from an old NBS Lab Rat. If you put a 7 to 10 degree downward angle on the dust inlet, it will improve your separation efficiency as it diminishes the planer flow and instead augments the cyclonic effect. Also, if you have a larger diameter catch chamber below the cyclone chamber (a larger catch bucket under the bottom clear chamber) it will increase the drop out ratio of debris and capture more of the super fine particles.

[@JustinDepew]

Great suggestion!

[@myhanhnguyen7364]

may i ask your vacuum what is the name how many fcm

[@pauljs75]

Don't most cyclone vacs also have a diffuser screen to drop the speed of the air in the center? Doesn't fully eliminate the fines, but still seems to reduce the amount that gets pulled through since they settle more. Not sure if that piece you have in the middle does the same thing.

[@walthodgson5780]

Could you not have sealed the inside of the top chamber from the top when you have the vac off? Or do you think that the bead would be sucked out of the crack?

[@JustinDepew]

It was already sealed with silicone from the first time. That silicone was still sticking because there is no pressure difference on the joint pulling it apart, so I did not replace it with the sikasil.

[@venriceallman5146]

i made a thein cyclone a few years ago , i still got fine dust on the shop vac filter , so i added a dyson cyclone between the thein and shop vac (off one of the stand and push vacs) that gave amazing results, there is a vid on here of me doing this on my old channel. THE DYSON WAS UN-POWERED

[@venriceallman5146]

Thien +Dyson = clean shop vac put this into youtube if you want to see

[@stanwooddave9758]

Great project. Great video. a couple of tip's. Tip One, when you cut the end of the Silicone tube, cut it at a 45 degree (approx) to help force the Silicone into the joint(s). Tip Two, If your going to use your finger (without gloves) to smooth out the Silicone, put some Baby oil on your finger, to prevent the Silicone from sticking to your finger. As you do different joint's, you'll need to clean off finger, and then reapply the Baby oil, i.e. rinse & repeat.👌 Another way to smooth out the Silicone is to use the back end / handle of a spoon / fork. You will just have to find one that make's you feel warm & fuzzy with the size of the bead. For a smaller bead, use a baby spoon / fork's, or what ever else you may have @ hand.

[@Valery_1954]

Можно просто побрызгать водой из пульверизатора на нанесенную дорожку силикона и разгладить чем угодно :)

[@Jester62D]

I built a similar dust separator & tested it with drywall dust. It failed. I was able to determine the failure point was the design of the baffle. The baffle needs a disruption section to prevent the vortex from continuing into the storage area. Without the disruption, the vortex will lift the ultra fine particles out & because of the size, they can't be seen. If you replace your baffle with a Thien Baffle, your separation will improve. Drywall dust is the ultimate testing media ! BTW: you should avoid vacuuming the inside of the filter. It only draws in the particles that plug the filter. Insted, take it outside & use compressed air to the inside diameter area to clean the filter. Make sure the windows are closed & the wind is in your favor or your partner will be as mad as a kcked hornets nest ! Cheers !

[@JustinDepew]

I should rig up a test to test the difference between thein baffle and the open baffel like mine. That would be a cool video.

[@PasiSavolainen]

I'm surprised the loose silicone didn't seal itself with the suction. My cyclone uses regular vacuum unit and a soft-ish plastic bin and I had to reinforce the bin so it would not collapse.

[@uncledoc9010]

a very compact and sleak design. i like it. if you whould aero-dynamicly-improve the cyclone filter, you whould see a dramatic reduction of dust in the vac filter. i‘ve printed a large cyclone filter, and have not a bit of dust in the vac filter.

[@TheWoodWorkingPilot]

Great! Did the noise levels decrease? Does it suck a bit better than it did before?

[@JustinDepew]

Yep! Noise level decreased and it sucks much better

[@nichwolfwood101]

if you added a collection bag to the bottom chamber would it get moved around to much by the swirling air?

[@chrisgraham2904]

A minor overhaul after two years of hard use isn't all that bad. Seems to have cleaned up nicely. Good recommendation on the sealant. A CA glue (superglue) would probably seal the paint to the poly and a bead of caulk on top of that to complete the seal. A bag on the filter or a foam ring around the filter will catch that very fine dust and it's easy to remove from the filter and wash it under the tap. A red racing stripe tape around the visible baffle area will hide the collecting sawdust -- it will still be there, but you won't see it to bug you.

[@JustinDepew]

Like the racing stripe idea!

[@Hunglikeagrimsmo]

I made this dust collector after seeing the original video but I put a foam filter between the vacuum chamber and collection chamber it keeps the main filter clean, I just wash it when I empty the tank and instead of putting the poly on the inside of the rings I inset it into a Grove with epoxy to seal it.

[@DB-dj6zk]

I didn’t see your comment and just made my own asking if insetting in a groove rather than on the inner diameter would be a better seal. Nice to know someone did this. I’ve yet to build my collector and have watched tons of videos. This by far is the best.

[@Hunglikeagrimsmo]

@@DB-dj6zk I've since had to rebuild with total boat epoxy because I originally cheaped out on the epoxy I used. The original epoxy was the 2 part syringe epoxy kits and it cracked and started losing vacuum in the chamber's. There's definitely benefits to both designs you just need to use quality epoxy with the inset ring style

[@DB-dj6zk]

@@Hunglikeagrimsmo good to know about the epoxy, thanks. I would have used the same 2 part syringe epoxy since I use it for other things. I’ll change my part list now to get what you used.👍🏽

[@TinSVM]

Hi Justin, great design! Well done sir. One question, is it significantly better than your previous version? This one looks amazing, but it's also a lot of work compared to the bucket one.

[@JustinDepew]

Hi Martin, yes it is significantly better than the bucket one.

[@TinSVM]

@@JustinDepew Awesome, that helps me finally decide. Thanks for taking the time to answer me. Keep up thw good work.

[@dougbourdo2589]

Nice job on that unit Sir.

[@Andy-te6jj]

very interesting! I know from a German KZbinr who builds already some dust collection out of wood he always mentioned that one of the most important is that there is no air leak between any of these components to avoid that dust goes into the filter (well there's no 100% to avoid it) it looks to me that you not have any sealing between dust bucket, cyclone and vacuum pump or I'm wrong?

[@JustinDepew]

The black ring that separates the cyclone chamber is sealed to the polycarbonate. Also between the red rings is a foam weatherstripping. I think that should cover it.

[@freshpootube]

When applying silicon to get a neat finish - first apply the silicon, then spray it with soapy water - then scrape/wipe the excess. You'll get a perfect looking bead with no thinly smeared bits. It's how we do it in the glass design business. More silicon isn't better either, you just need a small amount to create a nice little neat bevel. Otherwise it spoils the look of whatever you're making.

[@christopherward6214]

Once you added the sikasil to the seam around the top of the cyclone disc, was there any reduction of the ultrafine dust that would gather in the top section?

[@crustyoldfart]

It seems to me that polycarbonate introduces certain problems. First it requires you to bend it into a cylinder which is not the best form to resist outside pressure ; make it too thin and the cylinder is in danger of collapse. I would imagine too that there is a tendency to generate static electricity ? The use of a circular cylinder also complicates the configuration of the inlet hose. Use of all wood to construct a polygonal structure [ optimally an octagon ] has a number of advantages. It is a better form to resist external pressure, and if one employs square ports wherever possible structural problems are made easier. Construction with square corners is a natural way to work in wood. Not being transparent of course will probably require a glass window. Sealing wood joints is also a simple matter, and allows use of cheap sealing material such as wax. As to the rest of the designI I would say it's very well done, and painting the wood is a nice touch. I note that have elected NOT to use a cone. I have never been convinced that a cone is necessary. One fallacy often encountered when layman design air-moving systems is that we assume that the air will flow in a particular way - the way we want it to. In reality air is going to flow how IT wants to, and knowledge, experience and experiment is usually required to get it right. The only thing we can be sure to rely on is that mass flow remains constant through the system; therefore the air will flow faster through restrictions, and slower as it moves through wider pipes and chambers. It is the conversion from a fast flow with entrained dust to a slow flow which causes the dust to fall - which is the effect we are trying to create. As a general principle it is advisable to avoid bends in the flow, because each one causes a pressure drop, and secondly to minimize the length of the total for system, since length too causes a pressure drop.

[@dushk0]

silicone acrylic compound sealant is transparent like silicone, or you may use plain acrylic when you want it to stick to plastic.

[@IEnjoyCreatingVideos]

Nice fix Justin! Thank you for sharing the video with us.👌😎👍JP

[@wipatriot510]

I'm diggin' the sliding french doors to the garage...

[@JustinDepew]

Thanks, I have a whole video on that if you haven't seen it.

[@oooldman11]

While you had the cyclone apart, did you go ahead and seal the upper chamber that you did not seal last time? If so did it help stop the ultra fine dust that gathered in the filter area ? thankx i did enjoy the build!!

[@rkaztaw]

You should use adhesive window type gasket and insert it beetwen wood ring and plastic.Screws would do the rest of it. It would be better and looks nicely. Great job. I will make one for me. Thank you Justin for a great idea.

[@JustinDepew]

Good idea!

[@DB-dj6zk]

I know this video is very old but I just found it and your channel. Great work by the way not just with this project. I wondered if you had thought to recess the poly on top of the ring in a groove rather than attach on the inner diameter and then put the sealant on both sides? It would still be screwed in place but also wonder if recessing it in the ring would hold a better seal with the sealant on both sides in the well. And I see you love the color red ;-).

[@JustinDepew]

That's not a bad idea. It would be good to seal it on both sides.

[@jonnyshoestring9368]

Nice vid, after I apply silicone I spray it with a solution of washing liquid and water, it means when I run my finger the silicone is less likely to stick and so I get a better finish.

[@iwantmypot]

Did you re-seal the interior bead inside the top chamber? Some of your fine dust might have been sifting through the failed silicon seal.

[@DIYBuilds]

Great video

[@jeremyporier3291]

Nice job on the video and the dust collector. Btw, a $20 lapel mic would really improve your vid. Check out the BOYA BY-M1 on amazon. If you want to be wireless you can use your phone to record the audio and then import it to your video editing software.

[@JustinDepew]

Thanks! I actually just bought a wireless lapel mic and hope to try it out in my next video

[@excitedbox5705]

If you add some riffles like in a gold sluice to the wall of the chamber it will make areas where the dust can settle out and increase efficiency.

[@affordablewindows]

You have to etch the plastic chemically or mechanically

[@jeevespreston4740]

Sheesh!! I can't even make a square wooden box, LOL!!!, and you scratch build a dust collector?!? Excellent work!

[@alexafa316]

Also maybe scratch the plastic sheet with sandpaper at the bottom where the new silicone goes and that should make the silicone be absorbed into the scratch markings making the seal even better 😁

[@TheCrathes]

Really interesting content! Only thing I'd complain about is the sound levels. The volume of your voice fluctuates, but the main problem for me was the *really* loud "ping" and error sounds. Listening to this with cheapo earbuds was right on the edge of hurting my ears when I had the volume high enough to hear your voice in the parts with lower volume.

[@ginoasci]

Choode a trash barrel, take the casters off and mount them on the bottom of the trash barrel, mount the polycarbonate collector barrel and mount the to the trash barrel, so now you have a lot more room for saw dust, with a large fill window at the top. If the trash barrel is a little larger than the polycarbonate cylinder you made, the difference in diameter will will obviously result in a lip, that lip will possibly reduce the amount of dust going back up unti the vacuum filter. You'll have to let us know if that actually works if you decide to this. It might be worth a try, at least you'll triple the collection area. I haven't built mine yet, so this is just speculation. Cheers

[@rolliekelly6783]

I don't know how well or even if this works (disclaimer). Try spraying the inside of the upper chamber with anti-static spray.

[@r99pinball24]

Does adhesive not follow the same rule of thumb where an abraded surface makes for a better bond?

[@arealassassin]

Peeling Sika adhesives off anything- yea good luck!! That shit is da bomb!! Developed and used OEM in many industrial applications, and some automotive.

[@liqsilver3753]

Looks like your out of your apartment and in a proper shop!!!

[@joedance14]

Great videos! Inspiring work! From what kind of shop vac did you get the head for your integrated dust separator? Have not seen one resembling that.

[@JustinDepew]

Thanks Joe! It's a regular shop vac from the actual "shop vac" brand. It's old and discontinued. Can't buy it anymore.

[@andaros2106]

I wonder if you could fix your other leak issue with the sikasil.

[@pcrengnr1]

Thx for sharing the info on the sealant for a polycarbonate.

[@JSLEnterprises]

Should have used Clear gutter sealant... just dont touch it after you apply, that stuff adheres regardless if your finger is wet or not. Its also a lot stronger than either silicon or sikasil once cured

[@gupp22]

If you scuff the polycarbonate with 100 or 120 sandpaper, the silicone should adhere to the surface. Try testing .

[@jimspc07]

If you made yet more ply rings you could put them inside the polycarb as a brace at the top and bottom. Don't forget there is low pressure inside, that flexes the joins between polycarb and ply. Alternatively fit the polycarb into slots, but that would require thicker ply.

[@JustinDepew]

I like the groove idea.

[@oofol]

Nice one. My only thought - why did it took you 2years to replace the silicon?!

[@stun9771]

Good review Justin...nice to see that the ‘Sikaseal’ works... Womder if it’s available (or a similar product) in the UK?

[@britzwickit]

just browse your hardware shops, there are plenty of products made for sealing windows. they are designed to stick to wood, pvc and glass. Most of them are silicone based with diffrent additives. You could also sand the PVC for better adhesion

[@Helveteshit]

Hmm... Wouldn't a light sanding on the polycarbonate provide a rougher surface for the normal silicone to grab onto?

[@rock-afire-fan]

I would like to say I've seen lots and lots of cyclone separation systems built incorrectly... the way it should be constructed is basically an inner chamber inside the dust bin that is sealed from the outer chamber. and the hose goes directly into the outer chamber, and there is an opening with a screen over it that goes into the intake of a cyclone that drops into the inner chamber.

[@allenwilson6585]

why not use hot glue to seal it?

[@saborfox]

to help with the finer dust, you can put a blue shop towel around the middle pipe or just on the top seperator to cover the hole.. its a lot cheaper plus it will hel ot...

[@stevenon5664]

A paper towel works good, and you just put it in the trash when it starts to get clogged.

[@meelis79]

You said forgot to put silicone under divider and now you cannot put it there anymore - why not just put Sikaflex on the top-side?

[@MrKen-wy5dk]

It looks like a Dalek. Just give it a toilet plunger in the top and the universe is yours to command!

[@briandavern8741]

Lame

[@Hutchy45445]

Irony; Having to clean the cyclone unit, with another shop vac lol. Great project and review, but I wonder if a used central vac system, from a garage sale?, would be cheaper; especially if one didn't already own a shop vac.