K1200RS Clutch bleeding Part 3 Video. 2003' Model.

This is the 3rd video in series of how to bleed complete, brake and clutch circuits on a K1200RS BMW motorcycle. This video is just the Clutch bleeding, using a speed bleeder. Be sure to use an actual SB1010S bleeder! it is shorter than a regular bleeder and will seal better and engage a few threads before bottoming out on clutch bleeder adapter. the auto shop M10-1.0 speed bleeder is too long and gave me a bit of trouble as it leaked around the threads. I was only able to open the bleeder 1/8 of a turn to prevent leaking! So get the proper speed bleeder. The "S" at the end of the part number stands for short is my guess.
If you pressure bleed it from the bleed port up thru the reservoir, use a Regular bleeder. Speed bleeder will not allow fluid flow, since it has an internal check valve. Be ready for leakage though when you install the regular bleeder, as it opens the ball valve, so attach a hose while tightening to prevent the mess!
Disclaimer!!!!! This is how I bleed MY clutch! Do yours at your own risk and follow your service manual instructions. I take no responsibility for what you do with your bike!

[@timwells7983]

Thanks so much for taking the time to produce this video. I know that this one is only 7:33 long, but all of the editing and adding captions takes a lot of time and effort. I really appreciate the detail and care you put into this. I have a 2000 K12RS, as well as a 2001 K12LT. Doing my own work is so much easier with good reference materials like this. Regards

[@kontor15]

Thanks again! It was a rush job! Will be adding disclaimer soon!

[@soeren2894]

Thanks a lot, and also for #1 and 2.

[@g41thomas]

great videos

[@myk1200rs]

Good job on this one. But... you forgot the disclaimer as I said on the I-BMW forums ;-)

[@trevosride]

Question for you and I hope you know the answer mine I can shift the foot peg lever but as soon and and the engine is running don't want shift what you think it is?

[@ShawnBroadhead]

Thanks for the videos, it helped me a lot through mine. One question, I bled my clutch circuit yesterday, but I noticed that when I released the clutch lever it appeared that the fluid was sucked back into the bleeder valve, including some air that I assume came from the threads around it. It was almost as if the Speed Bleeder wasn't closing, or at least not immediately. Have you run into this? Is this normal?

[@kontor15]

I haven't run into it with the speed bleeders I bought! If I do it again I will use some pipe sealer tape around the threads. There is only enough room to grab a couple of threads, so it might be sucking air past the threads??

[@dsruddell]

Do you still have the bike?

[@kontor15]

Yes I still have the bike.

[@dsruddell]

do you want to loan out that brake bleeding wrench?

[@kontor15]

dsruddell sure. I looked around for a spare 7mm box wrench to bend you up one. If you happen to have a 12 point box wrench preferably longer than a regular wrench it would be easy to bend up for you with a propane torch. I live in Gilroy and work in Mountain view at Moffett Field.

[@kontor15]

dsruddell if I do go to Lowe’s this week I will see if I can find the one I used or one with a thinner head.

[@libertyman3072]

✌🏿😜 🏁 🏍️🏁🏍️🏁🏍️🏁🏍️🏁✌🏿😜

[@alansykes1496]

What you don't seem to realise is that the fitment with the grub screw is only used once in the life of the bike by the technician at the factory when he speed-fills the system with DOT4 in a matter of seconds in the reverse direction that you advocate.. After that, the item is totally REDUNDANT ! So bikers must discard it completely...fitting a Speed Bleeder in its place. All this messing about grinding the tip of a SB is complete rubbish. Just ditch the fitment; throw it away. It was fitted for the convenience of the factory, not to help you !

[@dsruddell]

if you replaced the grub screw with a speed bleeder wouldnt the system try to bleed itself everytime you pull the clutch?