K24 Swap BRZ Part 27 - Dyno Session Did Not Go As Planned...

Well I was really hoping to have something awesome to show you all today. Unfortunately we ran into some serious problems on the dyno, and it may result in a SERIOUS overhaul of the car.
Follow Me On Instagram/TikTok: @BuildingWithSean

[@2trackminded]

Will just make it even sweeter when it hits 400+. About to join you in the trenches over this winter with my Turbo K swap.

[@serghurt56]

Heads up man. You're RIGHT there!

[@BuildingWithSean]

Thanks man. Kind of a heartbreaker, but we just gotta keep pushing to the finish. Even if that means a new engine.

[@gamingwithsmokeydan]

Hope that your able to find the issue and that is something not costly and easy to sort out, hate to see you having another set back but once it's sorted and making that sweet SWEET power that frown will be turn upside down to a big cheesy grin. 😃

[@carbonspeed1050]

Bro that’s tough , but it’s still progress . Looking good end is in sight

[@motorcub]

If this was the kpower kit I was getting that throttle error because on their website they have a basemap that is included on their purchasing page which idk what that is but its wrong. If you go to their resources page it has a completely different base map listed specifically for haltech 1500 k24. Mine wouldn't even turn over on the first map. And instantly started up on the latter after injector size adjustment.

[@markachamizo6503]

take off the sandwhich plate and run car check psi...i had a bad sandwhich plate thrash my engine once.... you can hang the engine in place and drop the subframe to remove the pan allot easier than removing the engine. good luck keep us updated

[@gerarddevlin6714]

12:20 surly that pipe being lose would affect it

[@sethmonteleone8178]

I told y’all race cars don’t need thermostats! Hope it works out dude. I had a similar oil issue when the engine builder didn’t plug the oil jet hole and we were able to get the oil pan off with the motor in the car on a lift and plug it.

[@BuildingWithSean]

This will primary be a street car, but may see some track time eventually. I did install the oil restrictor/replacement bolt. This was my first thought when we noticed the low oil pressure, and now that we have the engine out of the car we can see that it’s still in place and nice and tight. No smoking gun yet, so we’re still trying to figure out what’s wrong.

[@sethmonteleone8178]

@@BuildingWithSean oh damn that is strange

[@Butcher3990]

I didn’t see it in your last video but did you not prime the oil system before starting the car ? Ideally pull the fuel pump fuse and use a pressure gauge in place of your actual oil pressure temp sender from kpower to make sure you have sufficient oil pressure before starting the engine with fuel and spark I’m doing a very similar build with my k swap 86 except I’m running a BMW E60 gearbox as it’s a lot cheaper than a CD009

[@BuildingWithSean]

Can’t believe I didn’t film that or even mention it in the video. Yes I did prime the oil system. Pulled the injector plugs and cranked until I got reading on the oil pressure. Topped out about 40-45psi at that time.

[@Butcher3990]

@@BuildingWithSean aye so you have no oil leaks atall? Have ya checked the catch can ? I seen you put plenty of oil in too and an extra quart for good measure Any Noise from the engine while at idle ? I’d drain the oil before dropping the sub frame to take the pan off

[@BuildingWithSean]

@@Butcher3990 Had a small leak from the timing cover, but we got that sorted. No other major leaks. Checked the catch can, and it did have a little bit in there but nothing crazy.

[@Butcher3990]

@@BuildingWithSean what’s the oil level like in the car currently? I’d hate to think it’s rod bearings 😌 Did ya torque the bolt in the girdle pan (k24 oil pump restrictor) correctly ?

[@BuildingWithSean]

@@Butcher3990 well as we speak the engine is pulled out and in pieces, but when it was on the dyno it showed above the “Max” line.

[@PH03N1X_83]

I hate to say it, but this is kind of how car builds go. Something will always go wrong in the last 5% if everything is going smoothly up until that point. It happens to the best of us. To be honest, you've gotten a very long way and there's no reason to be discouraged. You're swapping an engine and transmission that are foreign to this chassis...and putting a turbo on it. You have to expect something won't be quite right.

[@techyeti4252]

And your tuner kept running it back to back without noticing the oil pressure wasn't increasing? I'd find another tuner

[@michaelbull6906]

My same thought

[@user-be8gh2we3h]

Piston and rod is stock？6psi or higher and they won't break?

[@solo19studios17]

Not likely. Most honda platforms people run 10 or 12 on stock bottom ends. ARP studs and fresh rods and pistons do wonders. But if you're looking to do this swap and put down power, look into regular k24 boosted builds