Budget Mobile Ham Radio Install Jeep Wrangler TJ PT2 - | K6UDA Radio

[@tadcobert1307]

Thank you so much for this info, I want to do my first mobile build without spending a small fortune. Great vid!

[@K6UDA]

Glad it was helpful!

[@WI9LL]

Net Preamble: I have an LJ and am currently doing an install. -- "With my background in building race cars"... With my background in working on production lines at a factory, I use nuts and bolts for everything because I know they are going to be removed eventually for maintenance or when the scope of the project changes. 😂 Also FYI, you could have run the cable through the defroster grid. I ran the Mic for my Bluetooth stereo through there. It would have been one less hole and it routes perfectly with the car stereo slot which you were accessing the whole time. Also, the radio would have made it nearly invisible. I was actually watching to see how you mounted the lip mount on the hood. I think I'm stealing your idea of grinding slots and grinding the extra mount portion off. I'll probably put my radio where you put yours, but I think I'll pull out the rubber cover so I can just cover it up in the future. I use powerpoles also, but instead of crimping(which makes them hard to push into the connector, I'll usually solder the wire into it and push into the connector, preserving the shape of the metal insert. They push in so much easier. I've also found that most of these cheaper radios(I have a very similar TYT for my LJ) have a standard connector you can pick up at an auto parts store for those that don't want to bother with the powerpoles(but powerpoles are worth it!). Great video OM, 73!

[@jhorton1600]

Nice vid. Modifying the power connection may void the warranty of some brands. So be aware of that. Another option would be making an Anderson to your brand adapter cord. That way you don't cut the power cord off and can retain the warranty. Keep it up, KK4IDX in Western Ky 73.

[@thewt]

Personal experience with the power poles. 1. They suck. At least if you subject them to tension, vibration, or in some cases a difference in temperature. We used them on our robots. Then we switched to spade terminals. Was best switch ever. The only thing that kept the power poles on the wire for us was to fill the back of the plastic with hot glue then heat shrink over the whole unit.

[@greatnortoni]

Nice vid, looking forward to the next one on the radio itself.

[@kissingbanditt]

Seen you in Hoshnasi's live stream, and seen your channel, loved it...so im subbing to you

[@K6UDA]

Thanks dude.

[@BeefaloBart]

I have had a number of vehicles (jeep and other) where the easiest choice was to use a glass mount for 2m. Sadly since more often than not after putting in a mobile usually I end up selling the vehicles lol so I get so scared to put a radio in that I like. I may end up stuffin in my ole 2100H or 241J in the CJ5 and the other in my ZJ.

[@vandiver98188]

Im still looking for an antenna mount that works without cutting the hood. Also there is a pass through on the driver side of the firewall. No drilling required.

[@K6UDA]

I missed the pass through. Damn!

[@tomedgar4375]

What about a glass mount antenna?

[@capnsean520]

Nicely done, Bob! Very clean installation. You’re making me want to get a TJ!

[@VictorOmebije]

Awesome video

[@K6UDA]

Thank you!!

[@BradSnyder1]

It looks awesome Bob! Job well done! 73

[@sunnylandcamper]

waiting on the final odds and ends for my Comms Bag... Ill be sure to have it at Super Fset in Peoria K8ROY

[@K6UDA]

I'm gettin' excited.

[@Tusker2zero2]

I would be interested in seeing a mobile HF rig installed on the Jeep Wrangler. Maybe a screwdriver antenna, perhaps?

[@K6UDA]

That may happen one of these days.

[@christophermichaelson9050]

A few Jeepers do screwdrivers -- typically with Tarheels -- but screwdrivers are not a good option on Jeeps that see any offroad action. There are reports of screwdriver body metal fatigue and failure ... even with installs that used HD mounts from Breedlove. If a screwdriver is a must, I'd only consider a Scorpion SA-680S (the shorty "S" version is not listed on the Web site, so you have to call Ron and specifically ask for it). As for HF in general, the Alpha Moto + an antenna tuner is gaining popularity since it has no moving parts.

[@K6UDA]

I don't do HF Mobile so I'm a big fan of shooting a wire into a tree and using an end fed at camp. But the Alph Moto sound interesting. As for the wire insulation, I used black tape magic to insulate those wires.

[@christophermichaelson9050]

K6UDA right there with you. Not a fan of mobile HF. Totally agree that shooting a wire is the way to go. For me, mobile HF is just for emergency comms, and I more or less restrict myself to 10-40m. If I need solid 40m+ then I'll shoot a wire any day.

[@AJ-ri5ee]

For my cb I was able to wiggle the coax between the rear window, the body, and the top. If ya want, I can figure out a way to send a picture

[@BubbaWarbucks]

I'm still trying to figure out how to route power through my 2017 Subaru Forester firewall. The firewall isn't a single piece, it actually has a void between the layers, and there's no way of being able to tell if there are wires running inside the void. I suppose I should search KZbin, lol.

[@K6UDA]

If you can pop a small hole from the inside and use a camera probe to see what's on the other side. That will tell you if theres something in the way.

[@simonsdrift]

I am installing a quad band antenna on my subaru impreza I will be mounting mine on the hood with the same mount that you used . My question is should i do any grounding of the vehicle to cut down on RFI ???

[@RobSteel117]

You have friends here in Verdi Nevada

[@wrandojoe4121]

Good job , Robert. 73 . IU1FZV .

[@1MinuteFlipDoc]

U've got skills Bob!

[@MrDonNelson]

Curious do you do any antenna tuning, or a swr check etc. on that type of setup, or do you just trust the antenna as is? This is something I want to do in my truck as well.

[@K6UDA]

Yes. I run an analyzer across my mobile setup just make sure it’s close.

[@mattkenny8151]

Cool video. Fun to see the progression of your build. The product links are very helpful. 73 - KI7ZTH

[@MrTeoxania]

thumbs up from greece.great work and great tatoo ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ...73 from SY9CRA

[@radiolinux45]

What about the rubber grommets the holes that you have drilled ?

[@MrRadiorobot]

Have you ever noticed...you take your car apart for an install and after you get it back together there is always an annoying squeak, rattle or vibration you can't locate!!

[@christophermichaelson9050]

This is the "Jeep ham guy"? No offense, but the wires should be insulated with Techflex or equivalent. A grommet should be installed in the firewall as someone mentioned below. Ground should be to the chassis, not battery (and if chassis ground isn't reliable, then it should be remediated first). And the SWR should be checked with a proper meter.

[@K6UDA]

In my experience with all the radio professionals and wise old hams, All of them recommend isolating the ham radio gear to the positive and negative sides of the battery. Less chance for stray RFI issues and the system doesn't take a hit when you transmit.

[@christophermichaelson9050]

K6UDA That's absolutely how you do it if you cannot rely on your chassis ground, and it's how folks did it back in the day. I used to be in that crowd as well until I performed extensive research and testing. But just like the age-old and passed-down truck stop wisdom that CB coax has to be precisely 18' long to "match" the feedline to the radiator (nonsense), the "must ground to battery negative" wisdom gets passed down as well. Yes, taking the negative to the battery negative guarantees a solid ground, but it's best to make sure you have a good chassis ground to begin with...and then make the shortest possible ground to it. I'm sure you don't need me to go into the advantages of a bomb proof chassis ground (or even a mesh ground) with respect to signal to noise ratio, etc. The cross sectional area of the chassis will greatly exceed that of your ground wire, and still provide greater end-to-end conduction despite copper's 10x advantage in conductivity vs mild steel. You obviously have excellent install skills, but I had to point this out. Jeep on... Cheers, K4GMO

[@revadan]

did you put a rubber grommet to the holes you drilled before inserting the wire? vehicle movement will gradually rub to the wall and tear the plastic coating of the wire..

[@K6UDA]

I couldn't get to the hole so I wrapped the section on wires in magic black tape. Sounds legit eh?

[@loctite222ms]

This is just analog vhf/uhf? What do you think about having digital voice dmr, D-star, etc. Just going to hook up an HT? For mobile, I've been thinking of just using an HT with a mag mount Vehicle power connection, maybe a speaker-mike. Let me do analog and dmr for cheap. Only qrp though.

[@K6UDA]

Yes, this is an analog radio. I like the d-star and DMR mobiles, hell, I own two Icom ID-5100s but the point of this build was about budget. Using an ht in the car limits you to using the radio in the city close to repeater sites. The mag mount will help, but I think you’ll be disappointed overall.

[@loctite222ms]

Any antenna solution for the mobile would work for the HT. Yea, it's what 25 watts instead of about 5. That's maybe an S unit? Then you have to consider whether or not you want to have just analog. Maybe I'm just saying evaluate the local use before deciding what to install. Last I listened, I didn't hear much on the local analog machine.

[@sarahravenclaw9215]

How is it holding up?

[@K6UDA]

I'm working on the full review video now.

[@davidgrant2725]

Great video!