This is one aspect where surfing beach breaks really help. If you can't make the paddle out, you probably shouldn't be out there any way. That's how I learned growing up at least. It's a whole different beast with reefs and points that have easy paddles no matter what, you can really get in over your head without realizing it. Great video as always!
@rosemuir1837Ай бұрын
So true!
@Tula-g2bАй бұрын
Love the video so far, not too far into it. I agree about timing. It pays to be patient before you drop in on a wave. It seems there are too many cowboys out there, hence wipe outs and accidents when it's crowded. 😅 I love being connected on my longboard. I could ride a short board but even though I've surfed forever I'm still not confident on a short board, I suppose it's because I don't feel the need to cut back, 180° and shred I just enjoy riding a long board and staying on forever after I drop in. Slow cut backs, free and easy. But this definitely helps me in case I decide to grab a friend's tri fin. Thanks Kale
@mountainssea964210 ай бұрын
This is so helpful, mate. I am at that point in my surfing where I can ride bigger waves, but my sticking point is it’s scary for me to paddle out in these breaks and once I catch one I’m scared to paddle back out and getting caught. It all stems from a near drowning experience at Popoyo in Nicaragua years ago and I’ve never been able to get over it.
@KalesBroccoli10 ай бұрын
Takes time. Sometimes getting one or two on the head to know you’ll be okay is not a bad move :)
@gerrydelafino65910 ай бұрын
Scary
@jimmccarley960910 ай бұрын
Sometimes my home break is big macking closeouts, and not surfable, or even paddle outable. Other times, like this weekend, we got some sand out there to make peaks, and channels, super fun! When it's closeout city, none of the regulars go out, so neither do I.
@Tula-g2bАй бұрын
😮
@PaulManchoulas7 ай бұрын
One of the best waves on its day….love the little chapel in the background at the beginning
@RobertFanneyclimatescribbler10 ай бұрын
Dude. You have got to be the friendliest shredder I know. All your stuff is so helpful and just listening to you gives me a happy vibe. Great advice and fun video!
@KalesBroccoli10 ай бұрын
Oh thank you!
@justpaulo10 ай бұрын
"Remember that this journey that's very personal & unique to you, is one that occurs over years, not days, not even months. So take your time, be patient, be considered and enjoy the ride" 👏🏼🤙🏼
@Tula-g2bАй бұрын
Yes! For me it's always been spiritual. Each wave unique, never the same. A beautiful surprise every time.
@FromTheMosh10 ай бұрын
Appreciate the vid. I always have issues getting out the back in bigger surf as I surf beach breaks. Need to find a exercise routine I can do at home that gives me better paddle fitness.
@erimason510210 ай бұрын
That is the issue for me because I couldn’t find a surf buddy yet, even though I still surf in a crowdy points full of beginners and I know rescues will come to help if things went south but I still lack of that reassurance where you have someone to paddle out with and watch each other out
@nickpike558110 ай бұрын
Bro was trying to show you the goods at 6:27 😂
@KalesBroccoli10 ай бұрын
Hahahaha didn’t even realise
@jimmccarley960910 ай бұрын
Great subject heading into winter here. I really like the assessment part.
@enjoylivinginhawaii8 ай бұрын
Great video Kale - your helpful words resonated much with me.
@spalpene200210 ай бұрын
Why is nobody talking about the naked guy at 6:26 ??? What the???
@gregbordes153410 ай бұрын
Because is normal in south France 😊
@Challenge_me_geek10 ай бұрын
You forgot step 7 Kale, if its busy and you are inexperienced in big surf….do yourselves and everyone else a favour and do the hard work and go out somewhere else where theres only a couple of people out… usually the Pass byron is a good starting point.
@Tula-g2bАй бұрын
Absolutely! I don't go out if it's too busy and crowded. Fights always ensue. Ugly business.
@xyzct10 ай бұрын
To get over the fear of big waves, go out in even bigger waves.
@briansurfer86258 ай бұрын
I’ve def had the “I’m not cut out for this” feeling a few times lol. Once in in Costa Rica, and believe it or not…. Once in pacific beach San Diego. Sounds silly cause it’s known as a soft wave, but this day was no joke.
@xokolat1110 ай бұрын
Thank you for your channel kale, is great. Can you explain what it is 3 , 2, 1, method? Thank you
@--245510 ай бұрын
Much needed !
@thebronze597 ай бұрын
Excellent advise bro, i learnt the old hard way and before KZbin. when its overhead / 2x overhead etc, always best be with a mate for safety, if you feel on that dat its too big, no shame in not going, there is always other days. Great clean waves and surfing, decent eticate too, 🤗🤙
@kylewattssurfing326610 ай бұрын
Awesome ammmaaazzzinnnggg cooooool!!!!!!!
@kylewattssurfing326610 ай бұрын
Aggggggreeeee paaaaatieeeeennnncccccceeee and yeaaaaaaaars!!!!!!!
@sublimecourage7 ай бұрын
awesome advice, thank you
@dumpy428910 ай бұрын
I might have missed it but make sure you plan your return. sometimes you are up against cliffs, sometimes the currents are way different to what is 'normal'. know the spot.
@Ryan-es5fj10 ай бұрын
Thats why I bodysurf so I can just swim under and I have an entire section of the beach to myself.
@todd_horne10 ай бұрын
Hey mate great video as always. I’ve been surfing since I was 12 years old (now 37) but I had a lot of years off due to drug addiction. I’ve been sober for 3 years now and loving my surfing again. I’ve been struggling with the frustration of not being as good as I once was when I was surfing competitively in general. However kind of more relative to this video I feel a great amount of pressure when paddling for good solid waves in a crowded lineup. It’s not a fear of the wave itself but a fear of blowing it and wasting the wave. Any advice on self imposed pressure and or advice for a guy trying to reclaim my surfing skills from the years before I fell into addiction? Cheers 😎🤙🏽
@bsmbB10 ай бұрын
Almost in the same boat as you... getting back surfing after 15 years of life "getting in the way" now I have more free time and a job that give me the time to be able to surf after work. For me I think the most important thing is to just have fun you're not in a contest. Sure I get frustrated some times when I catch a rail or misplace my foot maybe mis a wave or 2 from bad positioning not watching my line up, but at the end of the day I'm out there to have fun and that's what I remind myself when i start feeling frustrated. Just the other day i got blown up on my 1st 2 waves and started doubting myself then just said f it who care and sent it on a 5 ftr with a pyzel gremlin and made it haha felt awesome had a great session after that. Just remember to have fun 🤙🏽🤙🏽
@KalesBroccoli10 ай бұрын
Be patient and have understanding / compassion for yourself! Everybody falls at some point :)
@todd_horne10 ай бұрын
@@bsmbB you’re absolutely right I should just focus on enjoying each session and get out of my own head 😂. I appreciate your perspective and advice.
@todd_horne10 ай бұрын
@@KalesBroccoli thanks Kale I appreciate your advice. “We are all our own worst critic” as the saying goes or something along those lines 😂. Some days I feel like every turn and snap is on point and some days I struggle to get my feet in the right spot to bottom turn lol. Every day I surf is a good day though. 🤙🏽
@rosemuir1837Ай бұрын
Omg same! My fear of failing/bombing a big wave is so much stronger than my fear of physical danger or injury 😂
@DevonNitta10 ай бұрын
Love your videos as always brotha! There might need to be a 7th rule though…which is to just charge the wave like a maniac without even realizing how big it is 😂😅
@KalesBroccoli10 ай бұрын
Good point!
@joshsmith799910 ай бұрын
Haha thats my go to, just turn and go on the first set that I'm in position for, if I make it great, if not copping a bestdown and popping up ok also helps. Obliously following most of the steps kale talks about prior to paddling for a bomb is smart 👌
@daveroche6897 ай бұрын
Excellent video. Keep living the dream 😅
@rainjin330910 ай бұрын
Parlemantia est une vague à cut black. Très facile à surfer mais difficile à digérer, elle reste très puissante sur toute sa longueur
@abeswed10 ай бұрын
Awesome vid. What stops me from charging big waves is my pop up. I keep slamming my back foot on the tail of the short board. Almost has me giving up on short boarding. Any tips? Cheers!
@PaulManchoulas7 ай бұрын
This is a very easy paddle out if you paddle from the harbour
@aureliengrais10 ай бұрын
Yeah.... You did it in Guéthary, France.....
@theodorehorton328810 ай бұрын
Thx helps a lot
@KalesBroccoli10 ай бұрын
Glad it helped
@scotchy8810 ай бұрын
This break looks sick! Looks like a mini Mavericks
@CacaoJunajpu10 ай бұрын
the break looks like the most chill lil thing in all the oceans. i WISH my break looked like that.
@UziMusic9 ай бұрын
@@CacaoJunajpu yeah mavs looks like solid pits and over vert take off to me
@UziMusic9 ай бұрын
There's 2 types of intimidating.. there's the heavy/hollow and fat/big, I find the heavy/hollow fast breaking over the falls type lip to the head on paddle out way worse than big fat slow moving ramps.. however ask on another day and it'll be something different
@Phil144gbp10 ай бұрын
Cheers pal 🤘
@KalesBroccoli10 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@dawsonfarr352710 ай бұрын
Great video - thank you! What size surfboard are you riding in this video? Also, can you duck dive a board that size?
@KalesBroccoli10 ай бұрын
No that one is a 7’8 - too big for duckdiving haha
@ericporto960310 ай бұрын
I recently surfed 8 to 10 foot faces for the first time in years and at first it was really intimidating but once I got a couple of sets in and fell right in the dangerzone and survived . Then my confidence skyrocketed and I was actually having fun
@bicyclingbum155110 ай бұрын
everything you said in this video is what people should be doing every time they enter the water, you forget the number 1 tip ! turn around and actually go ! yiew
@KalesBroccoli10 ай бұрын
🤙🏽🤙🏽
@jonniejlo10 ай бұрын
great video!
@KalesBroccoli10 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@jlutie294310 ай бұрын
I'm 67 surfing since the age of 5 people have told me how is it that you can get all good big wave's well I'm not going to Tell you
@T3lvanni10 ай бұрын
Ok boomer take your meds now
@louismarconnet9 ай бұрын
French butt à 6:26 !
@barryhall526610 ай бұрын
Im new to surfing probably 2 months not regularly surfing, ive managed to stand a fee times ive learnt so far on a high volume epoxy board. I go surfing with a mate and recently got introduced to 3 foot plus waves, for me this is monsterous but i still have a go paddle on and eat copious shit. I reckon its good for confidence for me atleast 🙂
@mpempy10 ай бұрын
huh, didn't know that Pirates of the Caribbean had surfing scenes...
@I-wf1sg6 ай бұрын
so cringe mate, let people experience their own surfing journey thats the whole point! why try teach people something you cant teach...all the while being cringey and non-core as possible
@jean18199410 ай бұрын
Love the video! I can relate to these advices. They really work. ALso loved the grey hoodie! What brand is this @kalebrock?