Fishing Kayak Setup for Beginners - Step 6 - Kayak Accessories - Kayak Well Nuts vs Rivets

The first step in kayak accessories installation as part of your fishing kayak setup for beginners is to decide between kayak rivets or screws or to use kayak well nuts. I show the difference between using several different types of kayak rivets as well as kayak well nuts. While kayak rivets installation is simple, kayak rubber well nuts do not require a tool. Understand the differences before you do mount kayak accessory track.
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[@KayakhacksFishing]

Check out all the steps: kzbin.info/aero/PL8egn41J7Go-Kc9zK6FXIaX5tluZmeHRN

[@drdriveone]

As always you keep me thinking. I have a make it better mentality and you juice my thoughts. Went looking for reds in the Lynnhaven Inlet this weekend . Skunked but had a great day just the same. Looking forward to the next post!!! Doc

[@cujomtb250]

Wow!! This has to be the most informative video with demonstrations on top of that. Amazing! Thank you so much.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@georgebowman3051]

Wow! Outstanding information and perfect timing since I’m about to make some additions to my kayak.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Have fun!

[@landofnir]

great comparison video!

[@MBrown-qw4ei]

Great informative videos. Keep em coming. Hello from Michigan.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Thanks for watching!

[@vanomadcyclist3474]

Thank you so much for your video, it was extremely helpful and I installed two attachment points on the kayak (metal ones) using the well nuts as its a sit on top! You gave us great confidence to try this project because of the 45 lb weight test. Bravo!!😊

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Great to hear!

[@johnybigbravo]

Perfect explanation my friend! It was exactly what I needed! Thanks

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Glad it helped!

[@jimwhite1557]

You held my attention!

[@daviddaigrepont9485]

Valuable tests

[@2reelyakrz481]

Very informative tests, I wouldn't have guessed those would hold. Looks like a good boot camp exercise 🤣. My preference is stainless steel (or brass if necessary) machine threaded screws/bolts with corresponding lock nuts and washers (fender washers or equivalent if the plastic is thin). Unfortunately, that's not always possible. I'm not a big fan of rivets since they are pretty much a one-time use. If the plastic is thick enough and the connection can handle the stress, my preference is well nuts. In rare cases (where nothing else would work and there wasn't much stress), I've used sheet-metal screws - I would only recommend them as a last resort though. Well nuts mostly seal, but I also (usually) put a bit of marine goop or 5200 in the hole as well - so far none have leaked 😎

[@KayakhacksFishing]

I agree. Both of these are for places where you cannot reach to the inside to use a washer and nut.

[@raynebutler1564]

My outdoor store said something about putting something inside of the kayak where the handle will go as a way to keep the weight distribution spread out better, but I cannot recall what they were referring to, do you have any idea? Obviously this will be an option for be because I can access the backside of my SOT Kayak fortunately. Thanbks very helpful video.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

They probably suggested washers if you can reach the place where you are making the hole. I would add a layer or two of HDPE if possible (cut up a cutting board).

[@SeahawksFTW2014]

I just bought gear tracks from Yak Attack and they also sell a backing plate to replace the nuts and washers for much stronger hold overall. They have even released what they call a rigging bullet that, with any access inside your hull at all, you can install backing plates even in SOT kayaks. I personally can't use the bullets on my Pelican Sentinel SOT Angler because there are no gear hatches so no inside access whatsoever, but it's still a brilliant system. Their video displaying this is posted on their YakAttackUSA account here and it's titled "YakAttack - FullBack Mighty Mount Install"

[@KayakhacksFishing]

@@SeahawksFTW2014 thanks for that update!!

[@dr.froghopper6711]

I attached a paddle keeper with well nuts, carefully following instructions, and they managed to pull out all the same. But I like their versatility for holes that you can’t reach from inside the kayak. I also like how easy they are to remove when you want to. I wouldn’t trust them for any mounts that I could make using a bolt, washer and nut, if I can reach the nuts with a good wrench.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

I agree. If you can reach the inside, use nuts/bolts.

[@juddi753]

Following !!!

[@BobBohner4851]

I love your reviews and it usually means i need to buy something which i did this time. Thank!!!!

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Ouch... lol... sorry about that!

[@ronski50]

It was the shock load along with a little bit of corrosion that caused my tri-hold (aircraft) rivets to break. For normal static loads, it works perfectly fine. I agree that it's much better than regular rivets.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Thanks for that point!

[@juddi753]

Whats a " shock " or " static " load ? Please define !

[@ronski50]

@@juddi753 Static load for example is when you are simply carrying the kayak with no sudden movements at the handles. Shock load for example is when the kayak is falling and you suddenly grab the handles to keep it from hitting the pavement.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

@@juddi753 A shock load would be jerking the weights suddenly. Static is the gentle application of force I show in the video

[@nickframe6743]

When trying to rivet track mounts (or other narrow locations) I’ve used small washers between the rivet head and the rivet gun. This packs the space that you can’t get into with the head of the gun and allows you to pull up the rivet like normal. 👍

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Wow! Great tip!

[@frankc6430]

there are many sizes of aluminum or stainless steel and plastic rivets (not just at home depot) that also have a better function on metal because the hole won`t expand like if in plastic surface (so you go with a longer size for better expansion from underneath) but you can ad to any rivet a washer or fender washer to the specific size of the stem from underneath for more expansion to the load (so it just doesn`t pull out easily), if you have a access to the bottom where the rivet will be and they also have Orings if the top needs to be sealed to prevent leaks ... they all work great but at the same time they can all have a different application for metal or plastics ... the wellnuts are great but they also have a situation that they are not completely flush ,it leaves a "washer" finish on top so when applied like if you want to attach a flat plate to cover a hole ,they will leave a 1/16 to a 1/8 gap between the plates ,sealed but still a gap the great thing is the the bolt is removable even thou the hole area will be bigger... so all depends on what the item you want to attach and what are your options of access and finish...what I am always concern on a kayak is if water can be a problem of leak , how wet will the area be and then figure it out how sealed I need it to be or not worry at all ....my 2 cents. Thank you.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Thank you for that insight!!

[@bl1nd-]

Im trying to find info on rivet nuts if they could work

[@David-lf2ne]

Are the well nuts reusable, meaning will the rubber withstand being cycled through an expansion and contraction series multiple times( less than 10 x) and still provide sealing capabilities up until the point of eventual rubber deterioration ?

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Good question. I have not tried to reuse them. My guess is that if the rubber is not deformed when you take it out, it is probably still good.

[@barrettjohnson7160]

Would rivets or well nuts be permanently placed? Also, if you need to change out the screw or bolt often which is the best? Thanks,

[@KayakhacksFishing]

The rivets are permanent until you drill them out. I have never had to change the screw in the well nuts. I would use rivets if you decide the installation is permanent, well nuts otherwise.

[@facecrunch]

Thanks for this series! What size is the tri-grip rivets that you used?

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Here is the link to the ones I used - amzn.to/3lILJZI

[@facecrunch]

@@KayakhacksFishing Thanks!

[@pmm422]

If I need real strength I cut out a piece of aluminum, drill holes in it and thread the holes. I then add a couple of dollops of silicone glue on it and place it on the inside of the kayak. I then attach my accessory by bolting it on threading it into the aluminum plate on the inside of the Kayak. Eventually the silicone cures and will hold the plate in place allowing you to bolt and unbolt the part on to the boat. . You can't beat that for strength.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Excellent advice! Thanks

[@juddi753]

Now thats a solid idea ! You're grabbing more material so as to distribute the stress on at the attachment point . Another way similar is SS Fender washers (1.25 or 1.5 or 2 inch in diameter) will accomplish the same . IMHO ...PEACE

[@ronski50]

I've used thick plastic cutting board to back up the ss bolts/nuts.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

@@ronski50 Perfect!

[@Rudy32225]

Good comment; I always used backing plates on my sailboat whenever the underside was accessible.

[@p3purr]

Do you recommend rivets with or without an o ring? I’ve used ones with o rings and noticed that a few of them bulge out instead of staying in place. Also do you think the o rings could rot in time and cause a leak if not noticed?

[@KayakhacksFishing]

I did not use the O rings that came with these rivets. I was concerned about the two things you mention. I want the pad eyes to be directly on the surface of the kayak with no possibility for movement. You can use a sealant if you feel you need one.

[@estevansanchez9639]

What would you suggest for anchor points to ratchet strap my plastic bolt to my roof rack?

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Rivets will be a stronger hold. If there is going to be a lot of stress, use large ones and enough of them.

[@billcoulter1984]

Tri grip rivet seems the best option but i need to attach aluminum t rail for a trolling motor mount. As you pointed out a rivet gun won’t work with t rail. Still searching

[@KayakhacksFishing]

If you find an answer, please let me know!

[@bobbyw6309]

I’ve actually been able to rivet tracks. I’ve used a step drill bit to make the gap bigger so I can get the rivet head through and also had success dropping in a T plate to push down on the rivet head. Both work, but of course the T plate looks nicer.

[@ianjimenez1097]

what size of well not should i use ? one that will fit the standard size kayak accessories screw holes.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

I believe 10mm metric or size 10 works in most applications. Run the screw through your accessory slot to make sure. Seems like a lot of the well nuts are metric

[@drock6477]

Have you tried nylon tri grip rivets ? Thinking nylon would work better with plastic kayaks and no corrosion issues.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Yes, I used those for things I really want to lock down!

[@David-lf2ne]

@@KayakhacksFishing So, is the nylon version stronger in plastic than aluminum rivets?

[@KayakhacksFishing]

@@David-lf2ne The tri grip really lock down and create a larger footprint on the inside of the hull. The issue is whether the aluminum or the nylon will rip through the hull under stress. Although I have not tested this, my guess is the larger footprint will make it harder to rip the rivet out.

[@robs9349]

Do you (or anyone on this) feel that well nuts seal out water better than the rivets? Short or long term (best guess on long term)?

[@KayakhacksFishing]

I have not done any tests. The rivets also have small o-rings to seal the hole. So, I think both would work OK. The well nut is already rubber around the top.

[@robs9349]

@@KayakhacksFishing Did not know there were o-rings on rivets. Good info! Thanks.

[@kk-pz8gn]

anyone know where to buy hollow rivet reach extensions? Thanks

[@KayakhacksFishing]

I would like to know as well.

[@johnm1619]

Hi Steve - What size well nuts did you use for the blue T Track? Thanks

[@KayakhacksFishing]

I used these M5 size - amzn.to/44E491k

[@johnm1619]

@@KayakhacksFishing thank you. They are even on prime day sale today.

[@dougms9790]

What was the thickness of the plastic you used for the test?

[@KayakhacksFishing]

About an eigth of an inch

[@UserUser-zm3fo]

Through bolt when you can. Especially with an anchor trolly.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Absolutely!

[@bobbywaltersinsurance9081]

Where do you buy well nuts

[@KayakhacksFishing]

I get mine from Amazon. These are what I use - amzn.to/42q4wwD

[@loganhalterman4824]

What well nuts are you using?

[@KayakhacksFishing]

I use the M5 size - amzn.to/46DmFIV

[@govshill4557]

Man! I was deeply concerned for your tootsies inside those Japanese safety boots.

[@markw4382]

RIVOT REACH, EXTENTION! cut a small steel tube, to fit over the stem of the rivet, Small enough for fitting the top of rivet yet, short enough to be able to still slip into the rivet gun.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

thanks for that idea!

[@johndavis3894]

Are the tri-grip rivets and the well nuts water tight? My biggest concern is leakage.

[@johndavis3894]

Just found your video on whether or not well nuts are waterproof. Therefore, my question is reduced to, "are the tri-grip rivets water tight?"

[@KayakhacksFishing]

I have not tested them for that. I believe they would be if you put a bit of silicone in the hole to make sure.

[@robertapreston4200]

nice video.................. my biggest concern is not the well nuts or rivets....... it's you lifting the weight over your bare toes!!!! I could barely finish the video. Next time, please at least wear closed-toed shoes. Thanks for the information and stay well.

[@KayakhacksFishing]

Thanks for the tips!