SCX24 Mazz Designs Cheat Code V3 comp chassis setup - double-bend links, Furitek motor, MEUS axles

[@mazzdesigns6929]

Wow I am truly blown away by the quality of your video/overview! The build is so sick as well! Thanks for all the support and I had to sub to the channel🤘🏻🤘🏻also the front lower high clearance really has no benefit as it creates a more harsh transition to the skid, this is not only on the v3CC but in cases of most all rails in my opinion, even 0deg skids I still run straights. Keep up the amazing videos!

[@Angerhaus]

Dude! Direct from the man himself! Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad you think I did your chassis justice. I appreciate you creating such a capable platform! 🤝🤝🤝

[@asian-ugrclab2367]

The reason the front lower links are not bent is because you want a smooth transition to the bottom of the skid.

[@southbound_rc]

I know u

[@Angerhaus]

Oh! Yeah that makes a lot of sense. Thank you!

[@pure24rc]

Super cool build md ccv3 is an awesome chassis. Your videos are always amazing. Keep killing it.

[@Angerhaus]

Ayye dude, appreciate your continued support!

[@wivlle]

🤯🤯🤯 Sweet rig, bruv 😎 I love the injora silicone inserts🤘🏽🤘🏽🤘🏽I use yellow and green simultaneously: the softer of the two is used on the front, and the stiffer is used in the back. Your LGRP TRENCHERS and their compound is ideal. I am sure your pragmatic approach and mechanical aptitude will understand this method. However, I will explain: the softer front helps to grab on ascents and break over; it’s like human hands and arms when rock climbing, and when descending they compress from the front biased weight, which allows the rig to hug its terrain. Additionally, I have run a wider LGRP tire on rear (due to tire specs), and more narrow for front; this allows a few MORE millimeters of width for stability in the rear, and a few LESS millimeters in front for clearing gates. Tire examples for your build: (rear tire) INJORA 1.0" 64*24mm S5 Super Soft Sticky Rock Crawling Tires; (front tire) LGRP Black Label M/T 63mm in height and 21mm in width. Feel free to try, I hope you enjoy the results. Thanks for the amazing content and ideas!!! ☮️and❤️ Bobby Lee

[@Angerhaus]

@@wivlle thanks for watching Bobby and I appreciate your tips. Yeah I actually have been thinking about trying a stagger wheel fitment with slightly wider rear. Similar to what you’re doing by using wider tires in the back. It does help on my 1:1 rig so I figure I should also see benefit on my 1:24. I definitely will also test out different insert setups. Actually I just got a set of OGRC purple, OMG even softer than Injora yellow.

[@small.and.even.smaller]

Nice truck & very good crawling 👍

[@small.and.even.smaller]

And perfect place for crawling.

[@Angerhaus]

@@small.and.even.smaller appreciate the kind words, dude!

[@lgrc6120]

Lmfao "I didn't know what I didn't know" thankyou so well said

[@Angerhaus]

@@lgrc6120 coming to terms with my ignorance 😂

[@ripomarc6090]

Thanks for this great video.

[@Angerhaus]

@@ripomarc6090 thank you for watching!

[@SeizedBCG]

awesome build! tires i can personally vouch for are the lgrp black labels or the jconcepts ruptures but those are banned in sorca events

[@Angerhaus]

Oh, I actually have set of them black labels in 57mm still in the bag for a scale build. Should’ve opened them sooner to have a feel.

[@SeizedBCG]

@@Angerhaus the black labels are some of the softest tires I've personally tried

[@Realwademasters]

You should have gone with the injora big bore so you atleast have 40mm of flex . I decided to actualy just rebuild my cheat code again . I am going to try the Lgrp super 8 . I don’t really like the link mounts on them though , but I atleast did get them installed just took some figuring out . I also went with rear facing the motor and I grabbed a few boa mounts from prophet I am waiting on for mues and regular axles . This way I can place my ESC in front of the transmission instead of side mounting it . Possibly my reciever may fit there aswell we shall see . I went with c10 front dead bolt rears .

[@Angerhaus]

You just named a bunch of things I wanna try on a future class 3 build! These are some great ideas, thanks!

[@gadsdenflyer7353]

I love the wheel and face combination you went with here. They look incredible. I ended up using HR big bore oil shocks in the rear and the slightly shorter Pro-Line shocks in the front to limit their uphill travel without using a limiting strap. The Pro-Line shocks work fine, but the HR shocks are sticky after sitting for a while. Is this your experience with the HR shocks? What oil weight did you go with and how much did you use? I'm just wondering if I may have over filled them. Nice build Brother!

[@Angerhaus]

It blew my mind when I found out the patterns line up. As for those HR shocks, they are not sticky for me. My Injora 39mm and 40mm big bores both get sticky after sitting, but for some reason not these HR's. I put 40 wt. (500cst) in them. I didn't measure but my best guess is I left about 4mm empty.

[@gadsdenflyer7353]

@@Angerhaus Much appreciated Brother!

[@snörre23]

How do you think it compares to the rampcrab chassis ?

[@Angerhaus]

This is definitely superior. I like the extra skid angle and the ability to mount outboard rear links.

[@AKlivn]

Need some axle caster if it’s a comp build

[@Angerhaus]

By adjusting the length of the front links?

[@nickerbocker759]

Your front upper links are upside down. Flip them and the motor will fit.

[@snörre23]

4:44 you forgot the link to this slider thing.

[@Angerhaus]

Thanks dude, I just added it. I see a couple of different ones on Etsy. The one in this video is by V.ENG. Doesn't fit the front because this rig is slammed. There is also diff sliders by SDRC. They're a different shape. I ordered a set to see if I can fit one on my front axle.

[@4XFAMILYADVENTURES]

What body

[@Angerhaus]

Furitek Cayman Pro