Kenmore Strong all metal sewing machine model 1430 Made in Japan

[@ronalddevine9587]

I have a kenmore 1430. One of the best machines for the money. Strong, quiet, very well made. Thanks for another great video

[@greygoosegranny]

Thanks for this video. I purchased a 1431 from our local thrift store today, it appears to sew well, but now I can't wait to put it through its paces.

[@donnamaxwell660]

I have one of these machine for over 30 years . Excellent choice!!!

[@projectrainbowscamp1996]

Hello, I have the Kenmore 1430 that I learned to sew on in the '70's. My Mom bought it new back then so I've enjoyed talking to her about all you've taught me about this amazing machine. I have do need some help in fixing a few things. Do you mind if I ask some specific questions? I use this machine quite a lot but it's needing some attention I think I can do myself with some expert advice.

[@shanarich9266]

Thank you for this video! I inherited one of these machines and I'm trying to learn all I can about it as I work on costumes.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Kenmore from this era make wonderful machines for costume construction since the presser feet on these will raise up higher than on most vintage machines and many Kenmores have Dual belts that work off of a common pulley giving them extra tongue.

[@janiceboutiette1773]

Thank you so much for info. Will take it in to be checked. It is a very good friend.

[@pbryant1360]

Could you do a video on belt replacement for this model? It looks easy enough. Great video and yes a great machine

[@antoniokinsey4041]

I hope you see this in December 2024 lol. I just bought this machine. But it didn’t have any extras, just the foot it came with. I was hoping in the video you would talk about whether or not this model makes buttonholes. I think it was supposed to come with a buttonholer attachment made of plastic with templates, so I’d like to find that. I saw another video that talked about a buttonholer that was made of two metal plates, plus metal templates that the KZbinr liked better. Do you know that buttonholer and if it works on this? Also, I’d like to buy some feet, e.g. … Walking foot, Quilters 1/4” foot, Stitch in the Ditch foot, Zipper Foot. Know where I can buy those? I hope you see this. I’ll copy/paste this to see if I can find your email or a more recent video of yours. I hope. Thanks so much for the great video:)

[@kathykurgan6878]

Do you have a video on how to use the Buttonhole attachment? I've never used it before

[@richardferguson6893]

Just had someone drop one of these off at the transfer station (garbage dump) I work at. I know nothing about sewing but hey, never too late to learn. Needle doesn't run up and down so I'll need to figure that out.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

So cool to hear of your 'rescue' of a great machine as these are some of the very last all metal 'heirloom' quality sewing machines ever made. Even if you decide not to pursue sewing (though you sure might), it would be great to get it in the hands of a sewer and keep it in use as the amazing tool that it is. Thanks for sharing Richard.

[@tigva22]

You always do such great reviews. I was curious if the Kenmore 158.1355080 or the Kenmore 158.17821 were "all" metal machines. I've had some difficulty getting any info on these models. The plate for the 1355080 says made in Tawian and not Japan.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

When production shifted to Taiwan, this was the time period when Sears began to compromise a bit with the machine producers to keep the prices down. So, the good news is that both of those models you have are 'mostly' metal with the 1355 possibly having a bit more plastic. (Check the hand wheel on the 1355). Also, both of these have stitch selector knobs up top I believe which are plastic. Take extra gentle care when using those. But I must say that compared with most new, current sewing machines, those are both strong workhorses and I would be proud to sew with them. Keep them cleaned and oiled and who knows how long they might last? See my videos on 'Hybrid Machines' where I discuss brands that share some of the same plastic parts as yours.

[@ricks.4767]

Your picture is a bit blurry. Like Kenmore machines, though. Diana

[@akorahmaniazar]

I just got one of those. Mine makes the same knocking noise when on stretchy white dot and specifically when the width is on '12per inch'. Is that normal? Feeling better since yours does make the exact same noise. Probably normal? Also one more thing is that I can easily stop the hand wheel by hand. Is that a safety feature or a problem with my machine? Thanks.

[@bethanythompson9617]

I have one of the Kenmore 1430 machines that I inherited from my mama. I also inherited a previous machine of hers a little Singer Featherlight that has been making a lot of clothing, etc. since my aunt purchase it for her in 1949. I have a question thought, it needs work and I while I have the parts, the book, etc. I don't know where to start getting it back in working order. Have you done any videos on this process or can you send me to some that have been made?

[@mattneff1262]

How does this compare to the 158.17850 model? My wife just acquired one of those today.

[@DebbieMiller-gd7ys]

Are they a low or high shank?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

This one uses Low Shank feet and attachments.

[@audreynorcross4063]

I’m having trouble with a bobbin winder not working on one of these machines- any tips? I disengaged the clutch and popped the clamp over on the bobbin but the machine just whirrs.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Audrey. Although its difficult for me to diagnose without actually seeing your machine, you might try taking a look at the bobbin winder from underneath. First, unplug your machine and then use a screwdriver as a lever and pry open the lid from the side door end. Watch my video on the Kenmore Free Arm machine where I illustrate where to place the screwdriver so you don't damage any of the drivetrain components. Next, take the lid off and look at the bobbin winder mechanism which is on the underside of the lid. See if the bobbin tire is in sound condition. Many of them are old and yours may be dry rotted/cracked. (If that is the case, replacements can be found online for very little $). Next, move the bobbin tire with your fingers and get a feel for how easily it rotates. If its stiff, there may be a need for a drop of sewing machine oil where the bobbin tire wheel meets the pin it rotates on. Be careful not to get oil on the tire as that would cause its own set of issues. On that note, also check the tire to see if there is any grease or oil that someone else may have erroneously applied to the tire. (The tire should always be dry and clean). Next, you might also check to see if the screws that hold the winding assembly in place on the underside of the lid are loose. FYI, these screws are also used to adjust the position of the winder but that would not be my first adjustment. Yet another issue that can cause the symptoms you describe is actually the bobbin. If your bobbin is warped, it might not be obvious when holding it in your hand, but if the winder pin wants to spin and the bobbin does not, the bobbin might not be "true" in its roundness. If the pin that the bobbin sits on does not spin without the bobbin in place, then its likely not the bobbin but one of the other potential issues I mentioned. These are areas I would investigate first. Worse case scenario is that if you are unable to remedy this, I would highly recommend a Bobbin Winder Device which many sewers will purchase and use separately from the machine. They are more convenient to use than the winder on the machine and its one of the "end runarounds" to allow you to keep sewing with your machine while not allowing the bobbin winder to keep you from sewing.

[@estherrigby7349]

What year is the kenmore sewing machine model17820 and how is the quality

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

That model was made in the late 1970's. It has the same appearance as those made in Japan but check yours as it might have been made in Taiwan. (Japan was getting more costly to produce there). Be especially careful with the plastic knob yours may have on top. It is vulnerable to cracking of it is stiff. If it moves freely, use it gently and as long as it is lubricated underneath where you should still find metal, it can work well for you. This model may come under what I call "Hybrid Vintage Machines". Mostly metal but some plastic as makers were desperately trying to cut costs so as not to lose lucrative contracts with retailers such as Sears and others. When given proper maintenance, your machine should give you good service and may last for many years.

[@estherrigby7349]

Vintage Sewing Machine Garage thanks so much that machine is made in Japan I want to bring to my brother in Honduras , I don’t want to bring junk But that machine works good

[@janiceboutiette1773]

Hi, I have had my Kenmore for 42 years. It is a workhorse. The needles have been hitting the plate and breaking. Can you help me figure out if I need it repaired. Thanks I love the machine and you made it sound like I should keep mine, but it is just not working.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Janice. Without seeing it up close, it's hard to say but you might inspect the hole in the needle plate where the needle passes to make sure it does not have any burrs in it from any past needle breaks. Another troubleshooting idea is to remove the current needle and inspect the needle clamp where the needle inserts. Also, use a bright light or magnifyer to ensure that the needle has its flat side facing the back. On this model I show in the video, the needles are threaded front to back. If your Kenmore is older than this one, it MIGHT have a needle that installs so its threaded from left to right. If these don't end up being a problem, you might want to take it to a Sewing-Vacuum service shop.

[@MsTbd63]

HELP!!! I was just given a machine exactly like that! It has so many tools. please respond. Don"t know what to do with it.

[@joannechesnos3906]

I just inherited my mom's 158.141000. I'm looking for the carrying case for it. Who is your preferred vendor for the case or replacement parts?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Ebay, Etsy, Bonanza.com

[@user-rv3ys7su3e]

Hi I have a Kenmore 1551 made in Japan in 1975 that looks much like yours in video, but has an extra stick cam dial at the top. It’s all metal. So is yours in video a newer model than mine?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Actually, this machine in the video and your machine would have been made very close in time; likely within a few years of each other. You often see variations such as your cam dial because Sears was such a large retailer, they offered many versions of their machine models with each having a different price point. The more features you wanted, the higher the price was.

[@Fxcken_Kai]

Please help! My sewing machine looks like this one but on the place where it says serial number it says 566 9150? Anyone know what this means? Any ideas, i would love to get this restored but I have no idea what it is. It was made in Japan tho!

[@pierreoscarinfospirituelle3407]

Hi je veux avoir une plaque remplaçable svp. Où puis-je la trouver via commande svp?

[@deeharris8413]

hi there, this is my machine. it seems to want to work, but the motor is working overtime just to take the foot a few stitches. do you have any suggestions for what i can do.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Dee. Here are many possible causes. The first thing I would check is your bobbin, bobbin case, and hook area. One single thread remnant can slow down a motor. Try re-threading the machine in case you have a thread wound on itself. I would not continue to use it until you troubleshoot the cause. Kenmore motors from this era are of incredibly high quality and I rarely have issues with them. Another thing to check is the belts. Worn, dry rotted, loose, or torn belts can make the machines job very difficult. Another item to look at is your bobbin winder. Make sure it is disengaging properly since if the winder tire is rubbing on your hand wheel, it can drag down the motor's power. Also, make sure it has been oiled and see if any of these things help. If all else fails, take to a sewing service center. The quality of your machine makes it worth paying for service. Nothing new comes close to its durability. Good luck

[@deeharris8413]

hello, and thank you so much for this advice. i checked and did all of the things you suggested. i've moved recently and had neglected my machine, until i needed to use it. in addition to the things you suggested, i cleaned everything. in doing so, i found so much lint, dust and dirt that i ended up w what resembled a small animal. after thoroughly cleaning my neglected machine, i added a few drops of oil to the appropriate parts and thank goodness, my trusty old darling began to work like a charm. i'm so grateful to you and the other old schoolers who gave suggestions. this incident caused me to search for another similar machine. i bought a 158. 13500 for $50. it's rarely been used by the owner who's sewn for a living. it came w a nice cabinet/table. i've clean it, oiled it and it is now working. initially, the top stitches weren't smooth or closing. when i saw the numbered tension at 2, i assumed it to be an error. i've always sewn at 4 or 5 and these stitches were horrible on top. i changed back to a 2 and the stitches closed and smoothed out. i wonder if you've worked on this type of kenmore and if that number is a fluke. again thanks for your help, because i really didn't want a plastic, computerized machine.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Dee, how great for you that you were willing to try taking on your machine's issues and that you have it up and running. Kenmores are known for NOT being fussy about tension adjustment. Here are a few thoughts I have on your question and tension issues with vintage machines in general. 1. On Kenmores, you rarely have to adjust tension unless you have a dramatic change in fabric (moving from canvas to silk for example) 2. Sometimes, prior owners have tinkered with the tension assembly and either put it back together wrong or lost a part in the process 3. Curious children sometimes play with something they should not and can alter settings. 4. If the tension discs inside the assembly have any old thread pieces stuck in them or have any rust, it can impact tension and so dial settings can be off 5. Tension dials are "approximate" and not digitally accurate, but thats ok. If you are able to sew with good stitch tension, I would leave the assembly alone. The original Kenmore assmblies were made in Japan and are of high quality. I dont ever want to use a new reproduction assembly on any of my restorations because they are made so poorly. Whether its a Kenmore or Singer etc, I prefer vintage spare parts when I have to replace one of these. I rarely do since they rarely break. Its so true that they dont make them like they used to.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Oh, one last thought, one reason that you may have to set your tension dial at an unusual number is that your machine might be compensating for the bobbin case whose tension adjustment may be also out of whack. But again, this is a situation where, "If it aint broke, dont fix it". If your stitches are now working well, I would leave it be. Thanks for writing.

[@deeharris8413]

hi vintage, i'm saving your replies so as i tinker i can look over them. thanks for not being secretive w your knowledge. i can't tell you how grateful i feel, having found your vids. at onetime my machine was up and ready to go 24/7. before everyone had labels, i made good money sewing designer clothes. embarrassed to say that i only use my machine to make seat covers, roman shades, draperies, and alterations. still, i'm going to keep my all metal machines going, as long as i can. thanks for your help. keep up the good work.