Kenny Explains Bump Steer on the Mustang and What You Need to Know

In this tech video, Kenny explains the dreaded bump steer phenomenon. Everyone talks about bump steer and all the ways you can measure it and correct it. The important thing is that bump steer is bad, and anytime you make a change to the suspension, you might want to take a look at it.
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[@puppygadget3189]

Does the steering tie rods need to run parallel with the bottom swing arm on a early about a 1964 Mustang II front end? This has the single swing arm on the bottom and dual tubular swing arms up top. It's on a pro-street car I bought that has bad bump steer starting at around 20 mph if the road is a bit bumpy. If I feather the throttle very slow it will go fine on the freeway and not bump steer but the second, I hit the throttle hard it wants to pitch the car off the road very violently. Just driving it does not pull and goes straight so very frustrating need to get it figured out and use the car. Took the front coil-overs off and tires then ran the swing arms up and down by hand and the steering wheel went back and forth. Sorry I just finished watching your video and see my tie rods need to run parallel with the lower swing arm. Which I'm pretty sure they do not but will take a look tomorrow. I called the guy I bought the car from, and he said he thought maybe when he built the car, he put the rack to far back or forward. I have not either had them check the alignment yet since all my money went to buying the car. Hope I can get it figured out myself and possibly buy your tie rod end and be done with it. I found the car online so did not get to test drive it first but asked him if he had any issues with the front end and he said no. So he was not totally honest. Other than that the car is a really cool car.

[@KennybrownPerformance]

Yes you are correct about the tie rods and needing to be as close to parallel with the lower control arm as possible. Baer Brakes does make a kit for the first gen Mustang I believe. Typically it would be hard to locate the rack too far forward or back unless there is some way to adjust the mounting, if so you may want to look at that closer as well. I would also check the rear suspension to make sure the axle is square under the car, they can check this for you on an alignment rack.

[@Ron_Masterjohn]

⁠ Thank you for your help. I changed my KZbin name from my real name Ron to what it is now. I never got a notification that you replied to my long question and history on the car. I’m finally at a point where I can get on this and hopefully figure it out without having to take it to a shop and spend more than I’d want. Don’t know if I mentioned it but will put some tubular lower arms on it which has nice ones on the top and QA1 coil overs. The guy that built the car did say he might not have placed the rack forward or back enough. Wish they made an easy conversion kit to convert the early lower stamped style single lower arms to a dual tubular arms. I’ll go on Baer website right now to. Have any idea who I should buy the tubular lower which is same specs as the early stamped lower arm? I see Speedway has them cheaper but in their photos the arms have surface rust so kinda sends me a negative message. Again thank you for your time and help.