Ender 5 Plus Bed Leveling Guide

[@bubbadoolittle2812]

Thanks!

[@kerseyfabs]

You bet! And thank you!

[@mackaznamova]

Thank you 😊😊

[@kerseyfabs]

You're welcome!

[@RazorFishGaming]

Alright, this video was the only video that got my Ender 5+ to level. Awesome content!

[@AndrewAHayes]

If you have Octoprint try the Autobim plugin, it makes manual levelling a cinch

[@dantheman642]

I moved from a Pro to a Plus and this HELPED !!!!! I was a Pro at the Pro... This one was like learning a slightly new machine even with same type design.

[@kerseyfabs]

I'm glad to hear it! Happy printing!

[@RamonHernandez]

This channel has single handedly gotten my E5+ printing like butter. Great work!

[@kerseyfabs]

Awesome! Happy printing!

[@Aagggyy]

@@kerseyfabs Is the Ender 5 plus still worth it to print for cosplay?

[@kerseyfabs]

It's still my go to for large prints. I own two of them. I'll let people know if I ever find one I like more. Frankly Built likes his too.

[@jacobaustin9129]

@@Aagggyy I 3d printed a whole boba fett costume on this thing, highly recommend it because of the build plate

[@riviecc]

What do you mean by remove live set z offset

[@mattieb2035]

I have done everything like this video said very precisely, and when I do the auto measure, only a few numbers are at zero-ish, and opposite corner at -5. Nothing I do can get zeros all around

[@baltazarlezcano8392]

were you able to solve it? I have the same problem and I don't know what to do. Answer please

[@user-jb1nr7mf5o]

​@@baltazarlezcano8392 same here

[@Dad_with_a_drone]

The glass may not be flat

[@rafaeldeitos]

Same problem here!

[@rafaeldeitos]

​@@Dad_with_a_droneHere the differences are too big to be just that. I even have "-7,200" in some points.

[@grumpygrandpa420]

Great video. I followed it, damn near frame by frame. No matter what I do, the measurement readings are crazy. I've tried every way I can think of. I've been trying to make tiny adjustments and re-measure, and basically walk it in. Watch where the numbers move each time, etc... I've taken 261 photos of my screen so far. That's 261 measurements, and I can't get it so more than the home spot reads with a zero in the first position. Hope I didn't get a dud.

[@jaaasgoed]

Did you ever figure this one out? I just bought one and have the same problem. The measurements are like physically impossible. point 1 would say -1.8, point 2 +0.3 and point 3 would be like -1.1 or something and so on for all 16 points. This would either mean the probe is defective, or the bed is extremely warped.

[@grumpygrandpa420]

I picked up a sonic pad and replaced the leveling springs with silicon. The reading from the sonic pad said it was pretty decently leveled, but the printer said otherwise. I loosened everything again and started over just using the sonic pad. After doing exactly what I did with the stock firmware, I was able to get every point to 0.0x after only a minor adjustment after the initial manual level. I'd say get it manually as level as possible, and run a test print. I found one that's just concentric squares that cover the entire build plate. Takes about 25 minutes to print. I did, and mine came out absolutely perfect. I was astonished. Then on the very next print, the extruder went haywire and smashed into the front of the machine. Again. Now the extruder just grinds, and I'm still waiting to hear back from the Vatican to get approval for an exorcism.

[@JamesFraley]

I've watched this video like 20 times over the last 8 months. Thank you again.

[@kerseyfabs]

You're very welcome! Glad it's been useful!

[@JamesFraley]

@@kerseyfabs next time off to install Marlon 2.0 on my Ender 5+. Is your video on that still up today?

[@kerseyfabs]

@@JamesFraley I don't have a video on that yet unless you switch boards.

[@CharlieFieldz]

I have watched this video a few times, it is by far the best and most detailed video I have found. Right now, my Creality ender 5 plus has all zeros across the board. I wish I could upload a picture of the screen.

[@oyuyuy]

Remove the live-z offset before starting the leveling process and you won't have the nozzle slamming into your bed like that.

[@VRChat_Degen]

26 minute video and they didnt even bother to start from all zeros... or appear to watch the manufactures guide before trying to tell other people how to do it. However i like the way guy talks and explains and shows that 3d printing is not a one and done magic process. I believe most people struggle when they find this part out and this video helps explain this part. Here is that manufacture video that shows setting the z offset to zero. Thanks for the video! kzbin.info/www/bejne/sISyh3SagNxnqdU

[@Gallery90]

For gapping between the two aluminum bars (2:51) you can use the shaft of the 3mm (or 2mm) Allen wrench that comes with the printer's tool set. Measure just inside of the notches cut in the bar. For that first measurement between the nozzle and the print surface, I can't see a reason for using the thinnest feeler gauge in a set. Creality has shipped a 0.20mm feeler gauge with other printers that use the same tramming process. It worked very well for my CR10S Pro V2. I have since purchased a 30cm long (12 inch) 0.20mm feeler gauge that I'll be using on my 5+ (also have a long 0.30mm). The length makes it a lot easier to do the center adjustment as well as the four corners. One thing to remember us that the feeler gauges are for measuring "clearance". Sliding them up alongside the nozzle gets you nothing better than a guess -- especially if you are using the thinnest gauge in the set.

[@kerseyfabs]

Thanks for the tips Larry! All good info.

[@jansasak39]

7:20 so is there some emergency stop to stop the bed crushing into the nozzle? Or how do you actually stop the machine from crashing even further?

[@kerseyfabs]

Hit that power button! There's no other emergency stop.

[@SunSafeHomes]

Same Problem, Did you figure out how to make it stop?

[@snawbadde2371]

Clear, easy to follow and now I finally know what I'm supposed to be doing when it comes to levelling the bed.

[@kerseyfabs]

That's awesome! Thanks for the message!

[@acetrainerben]

I notice that the "Auto leveling" feature is turned off (7:01) during this video. What, exactly, does that setting do? If you press "Measuring" with Auto leveling turned on, does it overwrite the manual leveling you've done? I have a 5 Plus and I feel like I'm re-leveling it way more than I should be...

[@kerseyfabs]

All that feature does is enable auto leveling before every print and then turns on the mesh. Make sure you have 'M420 S1' in your start gcode and you should be good.

[@JustTony72]

This is so well timed. I've been diagnosing my ever 5 plus. My first 3D printer for 2 days now and I've gotten no where. Following this my first test print was almost perfect. 3 out of 4 skirt lines actually adhered properly.

[@kerseyfabs]

Awesome! I hope it helps you get going.

[@chrisc9213]

Hi Kris, good video however I have had the best and most consistent results by replacing the MCU with a SKR E3 Turbo that has the 5 drivers. This gives you that ability to use the Z-tilt function with a dedicated driver for each z motor versus sharing as driver. I use Klipper with all of my E5P printers and my routine is to home the bed, and do a Z-tilt before each print. I now only do a bed mesh calibration/bed leveling screw adjustment when I notice inconsistency in my prints and or when the z-tilt goes past the 5 times. This does not happen very often and I have not touched the bed leveling screw adjustments unless I am calibrating the bed mesh. My printers are printing consistently 24/7 and it has been months since I last had to touch any of the bed leveling outside adjusting the Z-offest when changing filament type. Prior to this I pulled my hair out, adjusting bed screws, with a slightly warped bed.

[@St3v3Hancock]

Assembled my E5+ today, test print running now. Working. Thanks to your video. 💜

[@tantrumus7186]

I'm about to throw the E5+ to the curb. Each time I get it dialed in perfectly I can print 2-3 things or maybe lets say 30-40 hours of print time, then insert the nightmare of trying to get it levelled and dialed in again. I really thank you for this guide it makes it seem so straight forward. But in my case the outside of the test STL you provide prints fine and no material appears in the center and the nozzle practically drags on the build plate in the center areas. I've tried 3 diff build plates, orig glass provided, a magnetic flex plate, and the new updated Creality glass bed I just cannot get this to work. 1) Measured bed to gantry 2) got the nozzle to 205, bed to 60 3) set zhome 4) did the aux levelling thing several times 5) measured map/mesh looks great 6) tried your test print and worked the z-offset until I would see adhesion and fairly flat squished filament. Then when it gets to the X pattern it starts applying filament on the outsides of the X pattern but where the lines merge in the center I ahve about a 3" x 3" area that no filament even appears like empty area. Pulling hair out :( :( about to give up.

[@kerseyfabs]

Check your start gcode in your slicer and make sure you have "M420 S1 Z2" right after your G28 or G29 commands.

[@tantrumus7186]

@@kerseyfabs thx will check

[@nachodaddy6572]

You have been a huge help with my E5+ experience! I had a few issues out of the box (hit and miss with this machine) but your videos have been the difference and mine has been great. It was nice to see that you dropped this video, a sort of culmination of all the things you have learned over this E5+ journey. Your tweaks to the firmware made a huge difference in my auto leveling experience. Quick question, out of all the hot ends you have tried with this tool, which is your favorite? I am currently using Micro Swiss and find it acceptable but I struggle with the fine line of clog vs stringing in retraction settings. Please keep doing your thing, you have helped so many of us!!

[@davidsherrick8633]

While I don't have an Ender 5 Plus, it looks similar to my Tronxy X5SA Pro in some ways. First, it's big and second it has dual Z axis lead screws. The challenge I had with my Tronxy is that the bed would sag (z lead screw would turn) between prints when the stepper motors are off and would sag differently from side to side. So originally, I had to try to get the left and ride side the same before each and every print which was not always successful. The main board that came with the printer sent the same stepper signals to both the left and right motors. I swapped it out with one that allowed me to control the left and right side independently and now I can use the G34 auto z align command before every print. This command takes a measure on each side and adjusts until they are the same and then does the print. This made all the difference for me. Now my first layer is correct every time. I still had to level the bed and do the mesh like the video shows but now those settings get applied the same way each time because the bed is level from left to right. I assume you could do the same thing with the Ender 5 Plus. But I would warn that it was a big undertaking to swap mainboards, configure marlin, etc. But I love the results and it was worth it to me.

[@maverickhawk9887]

what kind of lead screws does the tronxy have? the ender has 8mm on 2 threads .. they dont turn by weight .. on my mpcnc i got 8mm on 4 threads .. spinning easily on weight ..

[@eyespye]

Man, you’ve saved my ass yet again! Thanks brother!

[@kerseyfabs]

Happy to do it!

[@josephmolion4345]

Glad I discovered this video, and you! I was about to throw my E5+ out the damn window. Now it's almost dialed in completely. Thank you sir.

[@kerseyfabs]

Thank you for the feedback! I love to hear that people are getting their machines going!

[@ElizabethHanderson]

Thank you so much for putting this out there. I purchased my printer brand new in May 2023, and I haven't been able to get it working until today. This was super helpful in getting me going, as was your test print. I am wondering about something, is it just me, or does the Ender-5 Plus have a file name length limitation. When I first loaded your file, I couldn't find it. Then I renamed it to Test Pattern and it worked fine. The other question I have is does Creality not recognize .STL files? I seem to have to convert files to .gcode to be able to print them. Is that for all Creality printers? The Ender-5 Plus only? Or am I doing something wrong?

[@kerseyfabs]

I'm glad I could help Elizabeth! Yes, it does have a filename limitation. Good job working that out! All printers require a sliced file and do not read models directly. A gcode file contains the instructions the printer uses to move and extrude. A STL file is a description of a 3D model.

[@michaelthompson888]

I Think you can avoid the bed pushing up into the print head , by starting a print , go into adjust and make the z axis compensation Zero. Then start the level process. Just a humble option. Thank you for all your great and helpful videos.

[@maverickhawk9887]

exactly the way i do it .. every time .. what is like once after any bigger change on the printer ..

[@ZerocoolsPropsandCollectibles]

same.

[@elmarcianodenny]

Did someone else noticed the center where the printer is measuring on 9:06 is not the same as the center on 12:30 and then on 14:40? Thanks Kris.

[@delirve12]

Man if i had this a year ago it would have saved so much time

[@dollarbill93]

great vid, for those playing along, and the vid isnt finished yet so if addressed please ignore. Best to check the wheels on the moving assembly to ensure no slop and check the nozzle is secured fully down when cold. If that nozzle is loose it will move during long prints. Basically shake everything and ensure no slop in the machine and then begin this video. Excellent info, i prefer doin this in octoprint as i find it easier with granular control, i do like the on the fly z axis adjust.

[@therejectedpanda]

Great vid man Was able to finally get a print out

[@kerseyfabs]

Great to hear! Thanks!

[@excelsior2708]

i just got mine 5 days ago, and while we have the same printer, mine does not have the auto level on off feature. it has the BL touch which looks a little different than yours. is there a reason for this? is that a feature they removed or did away with in later revisions of the software? i used a post it note but my numbers came out all over the place. the right side of the bed goes between -2.900 to -4.337, whereas the left side goes from 0.824 to -1.462.

[@baltazarlezcano8392]

were you able to solve it? I have the same problem and I don't know what to do. Answer please

[@shawnholowachuk8642]

What if your using a laptop with creality slicer for the test print? I ask because I cannot do the fine tuning adjustment that was shown in the video. I have options on the slicer but it seems like I'm limited to how much I can adjust the z setting.

[@kerseyfabs]

Creality Slicer is a Cura-based slicer. That means that by default, many settings are hidden to avoid confusion. You can turn on hidden settings with a button over near the settings area. From a Google search: "To show hidden settings, click the gear icon next to a section header. A window will pop out, which will show all of Cura's Custom settings."

[@NatesMiniatures]

I have been looking for a good Ender 5 Plus leveling guide for a long while now, once I get some racking set up I get to use the printer I have only been able to use once since buying it.

[@kerseyfabs]

I hope this works for you! Happy printing!

[@samschultz6106]

How much of a gap between the aluminum plates to allow for up a d down adjustment would you say is best

[@kerseyfabs]

You don't need much, maybe like 3-4mm or give but keep in mind it depends on which springs you have.

[@samschultz6106]

@@kerseyfabs gotcha, in gonna do silicone bed springs so we shall see what I can accomplish with that, currently the bed has a pretty huge slope so it's possible the plate is warped.

[@kerseyfabs]

@@samschultz6106 I hope that fixes it for you!

[@jack80kiwi]

Interesting Kris trying to figure out the correct process for when you have Z auto-align and then the scan with your firmware on the SKR 2. Only found out by accident that when I hooked up Octopi it will not let you print unless you do a bed level first, doing test prints at the moment.

[@justinagud9898]

If I'm doing this process with a textured PEI bed, should I expect the same amount of uniformity across the auto-leveling process? I've manually leveled time and time again and cannot got anywhere close to the ".0xx" measurements.

[@jaaasgoed]

same here, bought one recently and the measurements are all over the place.

[@hammlybammly3654]

Mine pushes up so aggressively in the center that I have to shut it off, it makes a very bad sound. The center is physically higher then the rest of the bed. Where are these forums and boards that you mentioned to help with this?

[@jeffreygleisle6960]

great video. question - i am using octoprint and not an sd card. not sure that makes a differance but i cant get to the adjustment screen. do i have to use an sd card to get to this screen?

[@kerseyfabs]

Yes. The stock display doesn't know when you're printing over Octoprint.

[@AndrewAHayes]

Once you have followed the instructions up to tramming the bed you can use the Autobim plugin if you have Octoprint, Autobim uses the BL Touch to measure each corner and instructs you how much to turn each wheel to get it trammed, this is using actual measurements instead of feel, the feel method is ok and will get you a good first layer but once I had used my feeler gauges the Autobim plugin showed me how much I was out of true level and guided me to true level.

[@nezsez65]

You are setting the "gap" for the tramming while using the orange bed screws which is easy enough, what is an optimal way of adjusting this gap when using the silicon pads instead of the springs, which are much more rigid? Does one try to put a minimal squish on the silicon while maintaining consistency around the 4 screws, or do you need to compress them like you would with the springs to allow +/- adjustments later?

[@kerseyfabs]

That's a good question! I don't use those but I would probably choose something in the middle. You want to be able to move them, so don't over compress. As long as you can move them some, you should be able to manually level well.

[@jack80kiwi]

I have the silicon pads and I have just seen this vid of Kris's . At the start I have used a piece of 1/8 inch Aluminium by the adjusters on the under frame as a feeler gauge and adjusted the hand wheels all the same. then do the corner leveling.

[@dsmith3625]

Kris, had it not been for you, I would have not selected my Ender 5 plus about 2 years ago. Your videos allowed for perfect adjustments. It has always printed great. Thanks for this new Ender 5 Plus leveling tutorial. A few tips I did not know, are now known. Thank you

[@kyrboy0364]

how can i put your test file on sd card with cura. i thought i did it and it shows on pc if i go to sd card but when i put it in the printer it does not show

[@kerseyfabs]

Make sure the filename isn't too long. Keep it short or the printer can't read it.

[@drumid1881]

HOW are you getting the z-axis compensation adjustment to go up or down by 0.01mm with each press. Mine only has the resolution of 0.1mm with every press and sometimes it feels like i need it in the middle. Is this a firmware thing? If so can you possibly link which firmware you are using as the latest one from Creality doesn't seem to work properly, especially with the silent board.

[@kerseyfabs]

Hmmm. I'm not sure. This should be part of the screen's firmware. I don't have time at the moment to go testing available firmware but there may be some different ones.

[@vgaggia]

Thanks for this, i just bought one of those feeler gauges to properly level, been going mad trying to get this thing working, i'm still dissapointed in BTT the board other than the flashing was perfectly functional, i ordered one of their boards can't remember the name something turbo or something, anyways, you gotta flash it via the SD Card, i got a bad board that i couldn't flash no matter what i tried, it just refused to pick up the firmware.bin, returned it, the replacement was also defective, needless to say, i'm just gonna be buying a creality silent board next time, looking forward to printing bigger things, all your videos have been a giant help thanks for helping all these ender 5 plus owners.

[@DavidDunster]

Well the beast is together, Z moves, X moves, Y moves, I move 😄. I noticed that the distance from nozzle to bed is way off so adjusting will be essential. I shall perform all your steps so I can ensure it is flat as a pancake. Thank you for your videos. Firmware out of the box is 1.70.2

[@thatonesnowboarde]

Thank you for this, it helped alot. Do you have any suggestions for upgrading motherboard and screen to something else? Not too happy with the creality hardware/software on this particular model

[@kerseyfabs]

I have a lot of videos on this channel about doing just that. My current favorite is the SKR 2. I don't have a dedicated video on that but the SKR 1.4 Turbo video will cover the upgrading process.

[@RaymondCHowes]

Tramming..CNC term. Digital caliper mounted to your router..ops.. nozzle would be awesome too. And to get a nice flat bed. We usually do a fly cut. Which you don't have that option. Of all my years of rough framing everything being between a 1/16 and an 1/8.. couldnt even imagine what a few thousandths of an inch..or a millimeter looks like! Truly amazing what these 3D printers can do. And all they are going to do is get better! The imagination is limitless!! I currently work with a 5x10 CNC wood router and have a small 30"x30" CNC at home. I've been looking into 3D printing and was really liking how this one works. I like that the bed isn't moving back and forth vs the x, y. It would be nice if all the steppers were on a threaded rod. For filament..i think it's just fine.

[@45WinchesterMagnum]

I have both sides of the bed mounting plate square to the gantry and have a roughly equal amount of adjustment available to the wheels. Should I go any further right now if I plan to use a Sonic Pad, or should I wait to do the rest after switching over to Klipper with the Pad? I also plan to swap the hotend for a Spider V4 - same question, when should I do this? This is a new Ender 5 Plus, just wondering how you would go about the setup if already planning to swap parts. I’m inclined to set up the Sonic Pad and leave the stock hotend in place until I get everything running - mostly wondering if I need to complete the bed leveling before or after setting up the Sonic Pad. I’m also swapping the extruder for metal, but I want to do this at the same time as the hotend swap so I only deal with the tubing once (changing to Capricorn).

[@kerseyfabs]

Do the Sonic Pad before any of them. All of the settings and everything will need to be redone after you install that, so just do it there the first time.

[@45WinchesterMagnum]

@@kerseyfabs Many thanks. Your channel is definitely going to be my "go to" source of info as I get into my Ender 5 Plus.

[@luisf7780]

thanks for this video I'm having a small problem with my z axis staying level while it's printing when I first do the ruler trick and then I start printing it gets out of sync with the other z motor ..why is that? thanks

[@kerseyfabs]

That shouldn't happen WHILE it's printing. Are you sure both motors are active like they should be? To test, move around the print bed using the controls then manually try and turn the Z motors. If they both resist, that's good. If one moves freely, you need to check your cabling.

[@officialjedimasterardean4598]

I have a neptune 2 3d printer a buddy gave me its okay works good ish kind abuggy as in when i set temp in the software and i hit print the temp goes down to a different temp and i have to go to the printer and set it by hand. does this printer have that issue?

[@bernardoleaovet]

Thanks for you videos! Because of them I fixed my printer one more time.

[@maliks7365]

So when I do mine I get like horrific numbers what am I doing wrong lol I'm getting numbers in -10 to -14. Idk what I'm doing wronf

[@kerseyfabs]

Did you set the Z offset already?

[@maliks7365]

@Kersey Fabrications yes. Gonna restart with your video and see if it makes a difference

[@kerseyfabs]

I hope that helps!

[@maliks7365]

@@kerseyfabs omg yes i got the numbers to be at a good 10th and ima start a test print in a bit. your video is helping me as i go thank you

[@Duros1394]

The mesh measurement can also show negative values. Maybe for new people have box in there for negative and positive measurements and what they indicate.

[@phreak373]

I just got an Ender 5 plus and am trying to do the leveling and initial print. Not sure if its just my machine, but after i hit print it does a full measured leveling (multi point) before starting the print. Is that something that can be changed in a setting or is this just how this printer prints.

[@robertrothwell8690]

Thank you so much for this video, it got me back up after a long time of being down and not wanting to deal with the frustration. I wish ABV was "real" ABV and it does everything it needs to and just goes. I am no where near to close to Zeros across but adjusting my z-offset seems to be the fix.

[@TonyGrant.]

More Ender 5 Plus content please. I'm thinking of getting one and want to see how well it prints compared to an X-Y. Putting fingerprints on the bed can stop filament sticking in patches. It looks like that is happening here.

[@kerseyfabs]

Short answer, similar quality, core x-y is still faster.

[@TonyGrant.]

@@kerseyfabsThat's good to know. At this point speed is not really a concern. I'm printing some small components for a project I am doing. Z alignment is my main criteria. I'm getting some surprisingly good results with a Tevo Tarantula but I want a larger build volume and a Z axis bed for the larger components.

[@JonS_Animation]

Thank you, super helpful video. Liked and subbed!

[@kerseyfabs]

Awesome! Thanks!

[@jacobstevens6286]

What if instead of 16 point bed leveling I wanted 25 point bed leveling? This way I have a measured value in the direct center of the bed. I am using your newest version of the software. What value do I need to change?

[@kerseyfabs]

That won't work with the screen's UI, so I'm not sure if it will work at all.

[@zorabixun]

Hi Kersay .... it's my first printer , i have unboxed it, assembled it almost all, now i have to connect the wires and bed leveling. Question .... When I see the Y belts in front side, they go much closer to the one side, and i think they will rubbing, scratch that side on the frames 🤔 .... can I do anything to make them sitting in the middle, not touching the frames ? It is on both sides left and right front. There is a possibility to adjust the position of the belt by turning the belt mounting bolts, but there is no such key in the equipment, so I do not know if I can do it ? Or just leave it at it and watch it work? Thanks for any suggestions 😊

[@kerseyfabs]

Congrats on the printer! 😍 Those mounting brackets should move. Feel free to adjust them. There are three screws in each if I remember correctly. Just get the belts tight when you get them in place.

[@rickjohnson6818]

Thanks for this. It was a huge help.

[@kerseyfabs]

Glad to hear it!

[@mochibelly5152]

Honestly thank you so much!!! literally for past few months been struggling to get my calibration sorted and finally this has resolved it!! the very first tip was a godsend did not notice one side was a couple of mm higher than the other and that kept preventing me getting inconsistent results 🙂

[@kerseyfabs]

I'm glad it worked for you!

[@Leelockwood3dprints]

When u do the bed measurement if the numbers are - 0.123 for example does the bed need to be higher or lower please

[@trevorjk91]

So when the z offset is adjusted while the print is in progress, that setting is always automatically remembered for the next print?

[@limit-lessfpv-rn3hh]

I bought mine used , this video helped me alot , thank you

[@kerseyfabs]

Glad I could help!

[@willoland]

Thanks Kris, your video demonstrates my frustration every time I want to print something. Are there sub ~$1000 printers out there on the market you don't have to spend equal time messing with and printing?

[@kerseyfabs]

I'm looking into that some. All printers in that price range will require tweaking he profiles for sure. I'm trying to find some good recommendation though for large format printing.

[@bruce12000]

I Wonder when you put your arm on the gantry the weight that push down on it could have given you wrong measurements?

[@dynastynova]

So, at what point do I need to turn auto bed leveling toggle on? Also, I am running you firmware from years ago for the ender plus that fixed abl offset and added pid tuning etc... What's the next step up from that? Because now that I have upgraded my fans and setup, my bltouch is not in the same spot and I have no idea how to update this on the stock ender with your firmware.

[@houseofbrokendobbsthings5537]

Brilliant Kris. Creality needs to link direct to you. Lost days fiddling trying to use the factory manual. Thanks for showing all of it - warts and all. Oh and I scrapped the factory glass.

[@sasmisfitz]

what size is the gauge used, I watched twice but couldnt hear the size

[@kerseyfabs]

I usually use the smallest available. 0.04mm in my set.

[@tobcrawling3955]

Hey mate I just bought mine and the auto leveling dosnt show up on my screen

[@kerseyfabs]

I've heard reports of this. I don't have an answer or a fix. Hit up Creality and see what they say.

[@tobcrawling3955]

@@kerseyfabs yeah they were great I tried downloading what they told me then the screen is now frozen in start up lol so I did everything they Said again and nothing changed so they sent me a new printer now this 1 works but still dosnt show what yours does

[@lil_bietpomp5853]

I did everything thing in the vid but my outcomes are really different. My corners (2,3,4 and 5) are 5.4mm, -4.9mm, 9mm, 3.1mm. If i do the leveling with a paper everything seems fine. When i try to print something it just comes out as spaghetti. I hope someone can help me

[@kerseyfabs]

Are you saying that it comes out messed up no matter what method you follow?

[@lil_bietpomp5853]

@@kerseyfabs yea, after i rewatched the vid the outcome is pretty much the same but it doesnt affect the builds anymore. So thats good i guess. This is also my first printer so im not experienced at all

[@grey_sloth2862]

Hey Chris, I've just flashed the firmware to your version on the printer, however the screen is currently white fuzz, what dwin set version do you recommend what your stock hex file.

[@kerseyfabs]

I never changed my Dwin set from the stock one. I haven't seen the screen turn to "fuzz." Since it runs its own firmware, that shouldn't happen.

[@grey_sloth2862]

All good, it's all fixed now, I screwd up right from the start, but managed to figure out what was wrong. Your firmware is fantastic, now just waiting for the new bigtreetech mini lcd screen, I don't really like the touch screen.

[@LSxHTX]

When I hit the "Z Home" button, it doesn't do what yours is doing.. it just moved the bed up and down and touches the BL touch probe a few times, then stops and is at the same spot it was before I adjusted it up and down. Ever seen this?

[@stevetb7777]

Hi Kris! Thanks so much for this video! Question - on step two when doing AUX leveling you level the four corners and then back out and enter AUX leveling again. The printer then homes, and you repeat the process. Are you certain it is proper to back out of AUX leveling and go back in? When I do this it seems to reset?? I level the four corners to where I can barely get the .04 mm feeler gauge under the nozzle. When I back out of AUX and go back in, it's exactly the same every time -- NOT where it was. The nozzle is touching the bed on every corner. Every time I'm having to twist to the left (loosen) the same amount on all four corners to be able to get the feeler gauge under the nozzle again. I've done 20 rounds of this, and still when I back out of AUX and go back in it's the same every time (nozzle touching bed, gauge can't pass). However, if I level the four corners, and repeat the leveling 2-3 times without leaving the AUX leveling screen it is consistent. I can pass the gauge under the nozzle with consistent resistance on all four corners. But when I back out of AUX leveling and go back in (after it homes), when I check the corners I can no longer pass the gauge under any of the corners without loosening again! I'm just about to the limits on how far they can turn left, so I'm starting to wonder what's going on. THANKS!!!

[@victorblandon8996]

I am having the same problem did you get a solution to it?

[@stevetb7777]

@@victorblandon8996 I think so... I think backing out of AUX (at least on my stock Ender 5+ is not the best thing. Do the same thing, just don't back out of AUX each time. And if you are a beginner (like me) and have adhesion problems after this, best advice I can give you - hair spray or glue stick on the glass side of the bed. I may have given up on the whole thing if I hadn't finally tried that. It's important to have success to keep you going. With hair spray or glue stick, you can get away with not having a perfectly level bed.

[@andrewmiyamoto355]

The auto level screen on my ender 5 plus doesn't have an on/off selector, have you heard of that or how to enable it?

[@andyspoo2]

What is the minimum space you need for and ender 5 plus? I was wondering where I can cram one in to my workshop. Thanks.

[@JAnderson392]

I just got my Ender 5 plus. I tried to use the bl touch for auto leveling but I don't have the same menu options shown in this video. When I go to the auto leveling screen it doesn't have the option to turn on auto leveling. It has the most recent firmware update. Should I go back to a previous one?

[@TommiHonkonen]

What size fiddler gauge used? I use 0.05

[@kerseyfabs]

0.04 or 0.05 will work great!

[@ownagske]

Thank your Kersey your channels been a life saver for E5+ !

[@kerseyfabs]

I'm happy I could help! Cheers!

[@cmchuck906]

I adjusted the bars and went to auto leveling and my bed wont even reach my BL touch. The BL touch now just flashes red and the bed wont go close enough to the nozzle. I adjusted it multiple times manually using 8.5 and lower, but it keeps putting the bed about 11 cm away from the x gantry bar every time. It just flashes red and seems to think the Z home is far far away from the nozzle. adjusting the -z does nothing. Any ideas what happened?

[@cmchuck906]

My issue was my BL touch I tightened it down and it started to work again. Also as other people have pointed out in the comments you should go to print and put your offset to 0 then home your printer before you level so you don't ram your bed in to your nozzle.

[@kerseyfabs]

I appreciate the feedback! I'm glad you got it working!

[@dwightsolis2495]

Do you do this for every single project?

[@joshdowning6863]

Is there a reason why I can go through and level all 5 points and have the distance right but when it goes to measure, the gaps its measuring are pretty big. Very few points are .056 or similar and most are well over that like 5.12 or similar.

[@kerseyfabs]

If you're getting some points at the 1 scale then your BLTouch is clearly malfunctioning. 1) Try to separate your BLTouch wiring from your other wires as much as possible. This will reduce line noise from power. 2) You could try shielding your BLTouch wires. 3) If all else fails, you may want to replace your BLTouch since this may be a device error.

[@bujin5455]

Would you mind telling me what font you're using for your Patreon scroll at the end of the video? It's a beautiful gothic font!

[@kerseyfabs]

Sure! That's called "AR BONNIE." I received it in a larger font package a while back but I'm not sure where I found it.

[@iceyclarke1756]

Would .01 of a mm make much of a differance as i only can find a 0.03 mm or .001 inch feeler Gauge

[@stevedube1032]

sorry for my english: after 1 correct print.. i start new and need levelling again... 2 day to try to levelling with paper or filer gauge.... cant print.. colision nozzel etc etc ... need to levelling all the time ?

[@GhostGL]

What's minuses mean with the auto level? Was all 0. But some had minuses

[@aracon9721]

After "billions" of leveling attempts I ended up with pretty much the same process. Except for the manual leveling I use the bed visualizer in Octoprint, and when adjusting the z-offset while printing, I restart the print job after changing the value. It feels to me that the value isn't immediately applied.

[@ScotT-qk1ec]

My z adjustment during print changes the 0.1 not the 0.01 place. How can I fix/change this? its an Ender5Plus running Ver 1.70.3 BL with the creatlity silent board 2.2.1. I was reflashing my printer due to nozzle/hotend replacement issues when it started. Before I messed with it, the 0.01 place was adjusted. It is impossible to get a good level @ the 0.1 place. Help!

[@kens3dandaquatics]

With the e5+ I found after making settings adjustments in the leveling interface screen you have to hit the home button to save to eprom otherwise when you turn your machine off it will not save the distances. There is no other save to epromm button that I have found and this is kind of a hidden feature (unless you change your firmware) And thank you Chris prior vids of yours helped me in the past alot! And this video definitely clarifies alot of unknown and unsaid for the e5+ leveling

[@kerseyfabs]

You're welcome and thanks for that tip. I hadn't noticed the correlation.

[@americanidolw]

I have a 0.20mm stick for measuring. I followed the steps up to aux leveling. When I do that I follow the steps and make sure that I get it right to the point where I can not longer get my stick under the nozzle (using the screws on the underside not adjustments to Z), then I go out then back into Aux and when I look at it and test it my 0.20mm glides under with tons of space. Any ideas? I've gone out and back in at least 10 times and it feels like i'm in the same spot over and over again. help!

[@chrissharp3466]

I know this Is an old post but i've gone through this procedure many times and the numbers I get are so much larger. From bottom left to top right I'm Getting -4.834, -4.462, -4.712, -4.624 -1.887, -1.862, -2.012, -2.424 0.962, 0.000, 1.100, 0.675 2.562, 3.137, 3.587, 3.925 The bed seem really uneven and I can see the bend in it. The knobs aren't too tight and even. Any help would be appreciated.

[@kerseyfabs]

Looking at your bed, it looks like its just sloped. I think if you just raise the back a couple of mm it should be fine.

[@majorbrighton]

My thanks too Kris, you might have some Swedish blood in you, spelling Cris with a K? Well we both know that you need to know that your efforts are helping and you won’t know unless I remind you properly 😊 I learned much more about the use of the touch controls and menu features this time, thank you 🙏🏻 Naturally I am one of those people who always seem to run headlong into issues. I thought that the printer was not so intimidating after seeing how open it is with little hidden, yet… Wonder if you have any advice? My current issue is that my prints don’t actually start! I tried to upgrade the Firmware and managed to level the bed, yet when up to temp the printer goes down to start on the bed and stops, the process on the screen continues and within seconds it says it’s finished? I basically downloaded the last Firmware from Creality and changed the name as instructed, before loading it onto the m-card. I then started the printer with the card already in. Well, maybe it could be that the firmware is not replaced? I followed your video for this process too. Yet did not download the extra software you used to check it. What should I do? I have had this printer for a year now and only managed to print a tiny boat a long time ago! Friends keep buying me more PLA as presents ha ha HELP! 😂

[@Matt-dk3wl]

6:40 is my WORST NIGHTMARE with 3D printing. I freaked out last night when my nozzle hit a bump and moved 1/16'th of an inch up... Nice to know that it's not fatal. That said, the Creality guys recommend you start a print, and adjust the offset to 0 (clicking the button a billion times) and then perform the leveling starting with the nozzle WAY off the plate. Then lower it slowly. Here's the link I saw it in: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sISyh3SagNxnqdU. That does seem pretty hacky. The other option is for your 3D printer to attempt suicide like what happened to you though.

[@Daddio66]

@Kersey love the videos on the ender 5+. Hope you can help me out a bit. I bought the Orbiter 1.5 for my E5+ which has 4 colored wires, the E5+ has wires black with lines and dashes. Can you do a video explaining how to match up the correct wiring patterns for this direct drive?

[@kerseyfabs]

Who was the manufacturer of the Orbiter? Each motor could have different pin-outs, so there's not one answer.

[@Daddio66]

@@kerseyfabs Bought it off ebay, BIQU Orbiter Extruder V1.5 Dual Driver Gear Extrusion For Voron 2.4 Ender 3 CR10 Thanks anyhow.

[@BitesizeUGC]

Great video, Kris. An excellent example of real world printing.

[@BB-836]

Would you recommend the ender 5 plus over the ender 3 max? I'm new to 3d printing and want to buy my first 3d printer, which should have a large print bed for for example helmets. I'm willing to pay the extra price, but only if its really worth it. Which one do I have to upgrade more to get the best results?

[@kerseyfabs]

Answered in one of your other messages. I'd go with the Ender 5 Plus. I don't like the single Z axis of the Ender 3 Max the more I've used it.

[@Mal-Adventures]

Thanks for the informative video Kris! Definitely have a much more level print bed on my Ender 5 Plus after watching this!

[@kerseyfabs]

Glad I could help!

[@brucemansfield2501]

Is the skr mini e3 v3 compatible with tft 3.5 v3?

[@kerseyfabs]

Yes!

[@customsrusprincalifornia2284]

Dave chapiro from dr vax he uses some kind of gage with a light does that work?

[@Gixie-R]

I tried upgrading my E5+ with a Manta M8P and made a right pigs ear of it. Went back to standard and the bed heights now 28mm below the closest the fine tuning can get it too. Some how the z offsets now out of bounds. So, A scilent board should be here today, Im praying that fixes it as i cant do anything with the basic set up. Ive also buggered the secondhand E5+ by fitting a Mini3 E3 and tft35v3.0.1, Thats on E5 firmware and i cant get the E5+ Firmware.BIN files off my PC on to a sd card for some reason. Its really messing with me now. :-(

[@kerseyfabs]

Heya Nick! Sorry to hear all of that. You have a ton going on. When you get to a final setup you're trying to fix, hit me up and I'll see what I can do.

[@Gixie-R]

@@kerseyfabs I made a error, I smoked the CR touch pluging it in a fan socket instead of a end stop. so few days time ill see what the new silent crealitys boards at, The drivers all work, motors are quiet but the bed now wont level as i messed touch up. Waiting on new cables. Thanks for replying.🙏

[@d_higgins]

My numbers are 0.1 to 0.2 for the outside. Should i redo my leveling process

[@kerseyfabs]

Are the inside numbers better?