King Seiko 44-9990 - A Brief History & Review - An Affordable Vintage Dress Watch Worth Owning

[@terrykarm5493]

I always find your videos incredibly informative and entertaining. Thank you for all the time and effort you put into them. This watch is beautiful, and definitely on my grail list!

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

*Thank you* Terry, much appreciated. It's definitely a great watch to own from the brand.

[@Guitar9235]

Great video and great example you are showing. As someone who has small wrists I believe the better of the two evils is a med-large wrist wearing a small watch vs small wrist wearing med-large watches. A smaller watch may look a little off on a bigger wrist but you can still wear them. When you have smaller wrists you can’t even wear most watches thus being limited.

[@logansmith8623]

I am thankful of having a smaller wrist size and so can enjoy these pieces of Horological history. I have a small collection of 60s - 70s Seikos including a King Seiko 5625-7040 which is chronometer certified and a Grand Seiko 4520-8000. I grow weary of the size debate. I say wear what you like and stop worrying about what other people think. I've seen folks with tiny wrists wearing huge watches and people with large wrists wearing 30'ish mm Watches from the 40s & 50s era. Can't wait to see what other Seiko you are getting. I like your videos because of your honest views and opinions. Keep up the great work!

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

*Thank you* Logan, much appreciated. Not to cause debate (regarding size), just letting folks know they can't expect a vintage watch such as the King Seiko featured here to wear like a modern dress watch. Styles change and so do expectations... Vintage dress isn't for everyone, but I love the scale and options available for us.

[@eusupporter8438]

You are so right, history is important. The story behind is what makes a watch interesting. Thank you for the video, really interesting and informative.

[@fantomas9240]

I've had this watch and It was a very nice journey. Now gone but still a great piece. Great review Patrick !

[@woonfaseng8737]

i recently spent about 350 US dollars to get a “rather used condition” vintage king Seiko (1st generation without the KS signed crown and crown signed “S” instead ; SAME as what this video show around 1:51 minute of this video ) from early 1960s with unknown service history which looks rather similar to 1st Generation Grand Seiko where "Grand Seiko and King Seiko" brand name were placed “ON TOP” just beneath the 12 o’clock markers instead of all later models where logo /name place above the 6 o’clock position... the caseback gold medallion is long gone and second hands and crown are both non original. i was expecting maybe 30 secs to 2 mins daily rate of error for such vintage piece. However , it turn out to be only about +4 5 seconds daily ! Truly amazing for those 1st Generations King / Grand Seikos, where they only beat at 18000vph (standard for that era but considered slow for modern auto/mechanicals). I think Especially for KS, where unlike 1st Generation Grand Seiko, 1st Gen King Seikos were NOT even declared “Chronometer” grade. (GS and KS does have many later Models that features High Beat 36000 vph and chronometer grades movements and better design but not their 1st Gen movements) test out the watch before buying on your wrist. my 1st KS is only about 35 or 36mm in case diameter but it wears much like a 38 or 39mm ( if not larger) due to the huge size of the centre dial face and very small case frame or i may say wears much bigger than i expected. so don't discount all vintage watch because of their case diameter, their design can make them looks bigger .

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

The 44KS is definitely a model that wears larger than it is. As I mentioned, the presence on the wrist is much *larger* than one would expect. Huge advocate for vintage Seiko... Some of the best movements/designs were featured in these earlier models.

[@tl4238]

Very nice watch and I can tell you have a passion for this watch.

[@charliebrewer617]

Thanks for the review. They are hard to find for older Seiko. I like the design and looking for one. I have a Lord Marvel 5740c that is super accurate and love it's design also. Thanks 👍

[@arupian666]

You have great taste in watches, my friend. My '69 Lord Marvel 5740C says "Hi" to yours. First Gen King Seiko is next on my want list. I own Grand Seiko's so really want the trifecta of Lord, King and Grand.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

Ahhh, you guys... I've been eyeing that exact same model... Steel case, numeral/linen dial... It's such an important watch for the brand and the prices are only going up. What do you think? Hahaha

[@arupian666]

Mine is baton style indices, in wonderful condition... the watch winds like silk and if you're in a quiet environment, you can put the watch to your ear and she sounds like a purring kitten... and it makes you look at the watch and quietly say "I love you... so much...." ... It's emotional. I wouldn't say "no" to the linen/arabic numeral version in the fullness of time, but there's a few vintage Seiko's I want to get before that. A "Skyliner", a "Fairway", a "Crown" and, of course, a 44KS King Seiko. You can see, I'm a dress watch fan. My next Grand Seiko is probably going to be a SBGW253 I am, a Seikopathic, Seikoholic.

[@charliebrewer617]

Take Time, w/Patrick Marlett Mine is the linen dial with arabic, and in very good shape. I don't think it has been polished either. The date on my case is 1976 which was the last year they were produced?. The 36000bph started in late 67-68 and had waterproof on the case back till 69. It was also one of the earliest 36000bph movements I think.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

As a matter of fact, I'm positive it was Seiko's first ever 36,000BPH Hi-Beat production movement introduced to the market. The Lord was the testing ground for future development on that caliber. A derivation of the 5740C would wind up in a later King Seiko... I want the Arabic dial as you don't often see Seiko experiment with that type of dial with their Hi-Beats from the 60's/70's. I also find the baton style dial face closely resembles my King Seiko 5621-7021 too much... Same hands and nearly the same dial altogether. The Arabic/Linen would be enough of a difference for me to take the leap. However, I just preorder something for the show that's set me back quite a bit...

[@TazBassDevil]

I have the same watch, it's really stunning. Hard to find in great condition, particularly the dial. A lot of them are refinished. Mine has two small stains on it but IRL it's really not that noticeable. I love that it's one of the largest dress KS made, and with the big dial, it has great presence on the wrist. It wears bigger than my 36mm Explorer. Great review !

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

I love hunting for vintage King/Grand Seiko's, but (as you said) those dials turn up all too often refinished. That's the number one concern you should have when looking. Sometimes the crowns are wrong, case lines messed up, but the dial can go right under the radar if you're not sure what you're looking for/at. Currently looking for two particular case references with little luck. Hoping to complete my vintage King collection sometime this year.

[@khronokraze]

Beautiful KS example you got there and I have to agree the combo on the dark blue leather strap is mighty fantastic. Can't wait to see the other KS you mentioned and how they compare and which one you ultimately keep.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

(I shared it on the Instagram! Not sure I'll feature it here, though I suppose I could... We'll see). Thank you! Yeah, I tried a variety of straps, but blue was just too good in combination with that dial.

[@khronokraze]

Take Time, w/Patrick Marlett cool. I'll see if I can find it on your Instagram.

[@TuTran-kr2yk]

I have waited for this vid for so longgg! Love this more serious style of video, suit the King Seiko

[@qadrik]

That is an absolutely gorgeous looking vintage watch. Outstanding value for money.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

Agreed. 👌⌚️🤤

[@tellmanuel]

Check my channel for vintage seikos! 😊

[@drwindsurf]

I was really happy to learn about the history of King Seiko. Yours is a beautiful example, congratulations on finding it! Thank you for sharing :)

[@thomaschristopherwhite9043]

Beautiful, Patrick. Absolutely beautiful.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

*Thank you.*

[@lawrencegmyers5306]

Hey Toby, that sounds like a plan! Thanks for your insight. Larryy

[@singaporehikers]

The back emblem is not plated, it's solid gold

[@andyt6819]

was just thinking you would review this watch, my lucky day

[@brunonjezic6208]

Hm 37mm is huge for vintage pice. Love the fast history

[@liamboncodin1785]

Where have you been man? Just came across this video again. I used to enjoy your videos so much but u havent uploaded for a while now

[@chrisauge6802]

Thanks for the review Patrick...I appreciate you

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

*Thank you.*

[@emcee9535]

Hey Patrick, I'm curious about the other King Seiko that you picked up... Let's see that video comparison soon!

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

Haha, the 5621-7021? Yeah. I don’t own the 44 anymore, but I’d be happy to talk on the 5621 moving forward!

[@emcee9535]

Take Time, w/Patrick Marlett Would love to hear your take on that. I recently acquired a 45GS and am looking to add a KS to the collection but there's just too many variants. 😂

[@lawrencegmyers5306]

Hey Pat, the 44-999 has been a grill of mine for better than four years, However, just haven’t been able to find a really nice piece. Let me know where you have been looking for your nice or Seiko‘s, I will find my 44KS. Thanks so much Larry

[@verdict1163]

Larry, best place to find many vintage watches and definitely vintage Seikos are the Yahoo Japan auctions. They tend to have more availability and in better condition than the minefield that is eBay. You cannot access the Japanese Yahoo auction directly without living in Japan, so you'll have to use a third party purchasing service, which is relatively common practice amongst watch enthusiasts. I use Zenmarket. Jauce is another one. They charge a small fee for use of their service, but it isn't bad. Check the auctions daily and you'll have your 43999 in no time. : )

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

To piggy-back on Toby's response, I personally use Buyee Japan. It's been a well kept secret for some time, but the best Japanese vintage deals are overseas. Also, eBay never hurts. This particular King was found off eBay! Just have to be looking (constantly).

[@TheChadWork2001]

I think you have an after market crystal. Your's doesn't taper from the side to the top. It looks like a box crystal. I don't think those were standard.

[@mikev3245]

Nice discussion and review Patrick. I have a full kit NOS never worn condition ultra thin Seiko Goldfeather with 25 jewel diashock movement from this same time period(1960-1966). I don't know if it is the same movement as used in the KS or GS but the balance is mounted on a full bridge - some 30 years before Rolex began using a full bridge. I think these old Seikos are a tremendous value prop.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

Lord, I just drooled a little. Nice find. Seiko truly is the King of the watch world, in my book. My next watch is a rare, "Presmatic"... It's just tough finding the model I want in decent condition... With it's original bracelet. We'll see if I can still snag one.

[@mikev3245]

I was just looking at it and found it interesting that the original Seiko leather strap (still pristine) is actually stamped 19.5mm. What an odd size! The underside of the buckle is stamped "Goldfeather". The movement on these is the 60R caliber which I've never seen on another model. Good luck with your hunt for a Presmatic!

[@K55365]

Nice little history lesson.

[@nate.or.nodate]

been hunting for a good example of a KS 45 for awhile now but remaining patient on the hunt to find "the one." great vid as always.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

I know that exact feeling... You always pass on a few before you get the copy you *actually want.* Best of luck brother, and thank you!

[@yugo63]

44-9990 SN:6700xxx from Japan, Interior or exterior hack? Thank-you for your informative InfoCast.

[@verdict1163]

Hello, I'm very interested to know what the "other" King Seiko you mentioned you had acquired at the end of the video, since you said there was a size difference between it and the already small 44KS.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

I no longer own that piece, but it was a beautiful 5621-7020 King Seiko.

[@verdict1163]

@@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett Thanks Patrick. Similar to 5626-7110 but without the day date. Your tastes in vintage Seikos is similar to mine, I just wish they were a tad larger, that's why I was curious that you had mentioned the 44-9990 as "wearing" larger. There is actually a rare large case version of 2nd gen KS called 44-2000, it only comes in gold though I think which for me is a bummer.

[@eigrp]

Great looking watch. Nice job.

[@1984robert]

Great watch with unpolished case in good condition but this is not a "grammar of design" case. Grammar of design case manufacturing started at 1967 with 44GS. This case design is from 1964.

[@ocb05]

Low beat rates is sweet. Less hassle, less wear and tear, and servicing is cheaper.

[@yousefgeorge3060]

Fantastic video!

[@tomsstudents]

Thank you for the intro on this beauty 44KS. Do you mind sharing with us where do you go for your vintage Seiko shopping?? It's really hard to come by a 44KS in good condition these days.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

I don't mind at all. I've saved everything from "Seiko" to "5621" onto eBay's search engine just to find one off listings with the models I'm looking for... I spread a wide net and look every day though (I have a problem), but don't expect everyone else to want to do this. If I'm looking for a specific model of the "Ripley," I'll save "Seiko Sports 100" as you'll often find non-watch folk listing items off the dial text. Now, aside from eBay, I *would not recommend this* (yet), but I use Yahoo Auction site called "Buyee Japan." Why? It's based out of Japan where numerous models are held. I found my Seiko AGS Flightmaster and more recently a 6216 I cannot wait to share on Instagram. However, I've had 50/50 luck with the products I've pulled. Often the images are awful and *everything* is in characters, so unless you read Kanji you're stuck with bad translations. You will be able to find many 44KS's on Buyee, but proceed with caution. Also note, you need to factor in S&H with every purchase. Hope this helps.

[@tomsstudents]

Thanks for the info. Much appreciated. Didn't know about the Buyee site. LOL! Can't wait for you to post those on Instagram.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

I just received the 6216... It needs work 😑 Again, 50/50 with Buyee

[@arupian666]

We have the same sized wrist. Look so good, dude... getting a nice condition watch like that, for $400 - $500 (guessing from what you said), is a bargain. If you want to sell the one in the vid, I'll give you WAY above what you paid. That's the exact model I want to go along with my Lord Marvel and GS's

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

I spent about $500 on mine. Shoot, well... I just sold it (and under). -_- a lot of folks are asking to purchase this one. I suppose I should have waited, but I'm constantly rotating models. Thank you for reaching out though and best of luck finding a good model!

[@arupian666]

Yeah, I figured it would be about that from your vid... I'd go up to $750 - $1k for a REALLY nice one... problem is, most of the 1st/2nd gen models are expensive relative to their condition. Hi-Beats are actually quite reasonably priced. I saw one 44KS on ebay that got my motor running and then saw the pic of the movement with the regulator WAAAAAY across to the negative side... not always a sign of a problem, but I like to see the regulator firmly a zero, half way between + and -... I saw another nice condition piece, but the description said "runs very well at approx 3 minutes fast/24h"... that's not "running very well" in my book... I have a timegrapher at home and that would make a very ugly picture for a $999.75 watch ! The search continues...

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

Aye, I have my heart set on two vintage Seikos... One's very rare to find in decent shape, w/original bracelet; and the other is common enough, but a tad on the pricey side. That model is the Grand Seiko 6145-8000. I love the deconstructed dauphine hands, the scale of the batons in proportion to the dial and the application and execution of the date window. The case... Is my favorite part. It's simply stunning. The other model is a "Presmatic," but I won't speak much more of it till I find one.

[@vijayponramu9393]

Great video, I acquired this model recently and I think mine would need a service. I wonder if Patrick or anybody else here with this model would clarify my doubt... my watch seems to wind well but the mainspring starts to to slip close to full wind. My other manual wind watches have a definite stop when fully wound. Would appreciate if someone can clarify if it’s a fault or a feature of this movement. Thanks.

[@vijayponramu9393]

Anybody?

[@vijayponramu9393]

4 years later, no answers!

[@zzzzxxxx341]

Beautiful watch. 😎😎😎

[@robertbaldwin177]

All very interesting and insightful, well delivered, thanks for sharing. Sub'd.

[@jameswong6590]

Patrick, please let me know if you ever decided to sell this piece. Thanks.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

Sadly, this model is gone. However, the *5621-7021* highlighted on our recent Vario review may be up for sale. If interested, reach me via the email in my about section 👌

[@niekbeentjes8849]

Hi really nice watch! I prefer the later models I have two 45-7001ks and sadly just missed out on a really nice 7540-8000. I dont get the part when you talked about having to many watches :) ... thats not really possible ;) And you could consider a original buckle, it wil make the watch complete.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

Where do you buy your buckles? I've gotten fakes in the past. Also, many of the authentic ones folks are asking entirely too much for. I'm at the point where the buckle on my strap is the last thing I concern myself with. *If* however I was able to source them affordably, I would.

[@yousefgeorge3060]

2nd time watching this, damn well made

[@samw1248]

Hey Pat, complete guess but is it a 5625-7040?

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

Haha, no, but I do like that model. I spoiled it over on Instagram (if you want to see a photo of it), but I am the proud owner of a *5621-7021!*

[@butwait]

600usd is currently the bottom end for those

[@canonyeo4286]

Grand Seiko VS Rolex Recently, I met a friend whom I have not seen for a long time. He saw me wearing the Peacock and he commented that he heard the GS keep very accurate time. He was wearing a Rolex and he said that the watch is running too fast. Often we hear this same thing from friends, isn't it? My few Rolex are also off by 10 sec/day or more. Most of my Seiko 6Rxx keep better time than this . I have not bought a Rolex chronometer (+6/-4 Static in 5 positions) again for a long time until recently when I have string pulled for me to buy four Superlative chronometers (+/-2 sec Static in 5 positions), the Air-king, Hulk, Batman, and, Daytona, at normal retail price which saved me a premium of 15K for the 4 watches. The new SC are a lot more accurate. It does indeed keep the accuracy as specified static in the 5 positions. However, they ( Air-king, Batman, and Hulk. Have yet to receive the Daytona) failed on the 6th position which they were not tested for. I have them at -5 to -7 sec/day. Hope this does not affect the accuracy over time. It does pretty well when in used (+3/-3), only that 2 out of 3 are in the negative territory which is common in the Cosc standard chronometers. None of my GS keep negative time, and they all are accurate as specified, (+5/-3 static in 6 positions), (9S6x in used +10/-1, 9S8x in used +8/-1). They keep well below these specified time. The Peacock hardly deviate a second a day, a marked improvement from my 2016 Hi-beat SBGH047 (+ 3sec/day). I have a 9S55 (SBGR017) which is now superseded by the 9S6x. It gave me +12 sec/day (exceeded the specs by 2 sec) when in use. Seiko sent it back to Japan and got it adjusted, and now I have it at +3/day. They also adjusted my SLA 017 with the 8L35 caliber to +3 sec/day. My 9R are accurate to +3 to 5 sec /month and my 9F are off by probably 2 sec/year (I also have two 400 dollars Dolce with the 8Jxx caliber that have the same accuracy). The Patek quartz has a specified accuracy of -18/+12 for comparison. As for the looks, I have 8 GS with 8 different case designs (there are more than a dozen available ), 8 different type of dials with a variety of hand and indices finishes. For me, it's like collecting pieces of artworks. All the bracelets are in two-pieces links which makes it flexible and curves softer on the wrist. Even the Presage have 2-pieces links, though not as flexible. Thank goodness, we now have solid links on the S Rolex. As for the fit, finishes, and polish on the whole thing, if you have played with a number of these watches, you can decide for yourself which is better. You may not want to put the Batman or the Hulk next to the Sumo, Monster or the Tuna during the night, though, haha... and, the bezel for the Batman is not tight fit - pretty disappointing. I would consider this a faulty design. Perhaps, they should have it like the GS SBGE 201 which has a 72-clicks tight fitting GMT bezel with lumibrite numerals topped with sapphire glass, and it has a purpose of being used as a third-time zone. Also, If you are into Seiko's divers, you know why the size of the fan is getting bigger. All Seiko's Professional Divers (300m and above) are equipped with helium gas, and you can find them in a less than a thousand dollars Tuna, with an inbuilt escape valve. The SKX is probably one of the most talks about watches, and that for 200 dollars. It's non-hacking like most Patek, yet, I don't mind having them in my collections. This is one fun watch that sucks up the stuffiness in the watch community. As for the price, the Air-king already cost more than the LE Peacock. The price of Rolex will continue to rise. The Daytona is now more than 20K at a premium price. Who knows how much more it will go up? The GS needs an awakening for a price jump. I do not collect watches for investment, so this is not a factor for my reason of buying. But, one thing is certain - everyone can value a good product. We are all looking forward to the 2018 VFA. This is not yet the VFA of the 70's which is +/-2 sec per day or 1 minute per month guaranteed for 2 years. This would make the Seiko collectors very happy when it happens. GS was only open to the world less than ten years ago. It was like Toyota introducing the Lexus. It took some time for Lexus to price themselves at par with Benz and BMW. From my own experience, they have the same driving pleasure. Give GS another ten years, and people would wish they have collected a few, Seiko watches notwithstanding. It's the 'Investment' factor that pushes the price of Rolex up, not the watch itself. All investments are intertwined. When there is a crash in the market, everything comes down. People will go back to fundamentals. People will begin to look at values.

[@feralfeline6137]

Good video bud.

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

*Thank you* brother. Much appreciated.

[@andyt6819]

if you do decide to sell I will pay a premium!! been trying to find a model with good lines

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

Oh no... I'm sorry Andy. I just sold it. -_- I am positive you can still find a perfect example though. Without a doubt.

[@andyt6819]

It's okay, I actually found out you sold it when I followed you on IG after this video lol. Yeah, I hope I find one too. Its so hard to find one that isn't over polished :/

[@gmshadowtraders]

Take Time, w/Patrick Marlett Dude why did you sell it???

[@danielt.muller7009]

Hi Pat. Thanks for this vid! Helped me to put an offer on a 1966 model in great condition. Fingers crossed it works out. In case it will, I'll tag you on Instagram / @daniels_watches. Cheers from Germany Daniel

[@alexmatei7820]

High beat = high maintenance.

[@brandongonzal]

A watch on your right hand is so wrong.

[@leslieip1993112]

How did "Daini" become "Danny" ? :/

[@arupian666]

I always say "day-nee" and "sewer"... and I remembered the which logo is which because the Suwa logo has a circle in the middle, like a "sewer" pipe...

[@gmshadowtraders]

Leslie Ip lol joker lets see you make a video as good

[@TakeTimewPatrickMarlett]

No, it's more like "day-nee," that's correct. I simply didn't want to butcher the actual pronunciation of/or over enunciate a clearly Japanese word with my American accent. I've had trouble with that in the past, but I do believe we still understand what I'm talking about.