Klipsch RP600M Crossover Upgrade

This is a short video on doing a minor crossover upgrade on a 1st gen Klipsch RP600M, replacing the tweeter crossover capacitor with a Mundorf version of the same value, and internally connecting both speaker drivers to eliminate issues with the external speaker jack plates.
Edit: I later replaced this same cap with a Jazden Superior and find it to sound more to my liking!
You can buy these speakers here:
amzn.to/3qSV0TQ
Or the sister of these, the RP160M here:
amzn.to/3qMVWtc
You can send me links and messaged at:
www.skunkiedesigns.com/contact
Here is my Patreon, as well as the donation page at my site, if you feel so inclined to help fund some of the future projects for the channel!
www.patreon.com/user?u=87080658
www.skunkiedesigns.com/donate
Here is where you can buy T-shirts and other Merch with my fun logo.
skunkie-designs.myspreadshop....

[@falvegas511]

Saw the FREQ Curves for the Original 600M -The Upgrade was Needed.

[@nancright1352]

love to hear your thoughts.. thanks !

[@user-nj7tj6om3q]

Thanks a lot for your experience with klipsch speaker 🔊

[@montebrodie4086]

Speakerchef made me a nice crossover, got rid of the hole and really brought out the details with the nice caps, made a noticeable difference.

[@zombielandiii2711]

Hello, who is Speakerchef? Maybe I can ask for a crossover. Thanks.

[@Bangkok-ik1fp]

Great job! I'll have to to see about mods for my Heresy II's which I dearly love. Your bay window works for you like my moving dollies work for me. I'll bet that tube of cement glue has been part of some incredible projects

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

Yeah, that glue is about done :P

[@crimsonghost6454]

I have 1979 Klipsch Heresy 1s. I replaced the original caps with Sonicaps from Bob Crites. I felt the same way about mine. I didn't hear a huge difference but the detail and separation seems better. While i was in there i replaced the internal wire with better and i added five way binding posts as the original was just a small screw terminal.

[@randalls255]

For the jumpers, I got good results with my b&w speakers by just replacing the metal strips with speaker wire.

[@1024div]

Super cool!

[@user-nj7tj6om3q]

The speakers for me are perfect, American sound ( what i like), to adjust the curb will affect the identity of the klipsch 600. I agree with you, and i enjoy the speakers how it is😊

[@marcelod.685]

Great video. Step by step. Thank you!!

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

Just an FYI, I later replaced than Mundorf cap with a Jazden Superior and like it better

[@marcelod.685]

Jantzen Audio 3.9uF 400V Crosscap Capacitor. These ones are $2.38. A lot cheaper than the ones you originally replaced. Thank you so much for the replay and advice. I like your channel a lot.

[@nevillegoddard4966]

Nice, simple upgrade Stephe! Mundorf aluminium/oil caps ay? Well, that's just fine & dandy for me cos I used a couple of the exact same type of caps in the crossover networks for my Silicon Chip Magazine 'Majestic' speakers that I built! It was a spare-no-expense build that cost me around AUD$2700 to build, but I am very pleased with them. I paid about $100 each just for the big, half-a-house-brick weight & sized woofer series inductors for them! I used 4 big non-metallic cable ties & silicon glue to mount these heavy coils to the 12mm MDF crossover baseboard to keep any metal from inside them. I even fashioned sort-of heatsinks for the 'extra good' 10 watt wirewound resistors, mounting all components to the undercoated crossover baseboard with those old-school tagstrips. I think the crossovers actually cost me over $150 each! - But I didn't care lol! I was just buying bits each week or fortnight over maybe 6 months. Except for the cabinetry. That was specially ordered through bunnings hardware as actual diy kitchen cabinetry, & adapted to build a pair of speakers the size of a decent bar fridge! You start with the cabinet carcass then add the decorative outer woodgrain panels over the top. I chose 'black forest', which is a dark grey highly textured finish that I'm pleased with. I thunk they'd look far too Imposing & garish if they were a light colour. I had a great time building them in my spare room inside on carpet! Bending, securing & sealing 3mm plywood into a semi-hyperbolic horn was an experience! That was the only wood I had to cut with a handsaw, as I paid my local friendly neighbourhood kitchen installer $100 to cut all the additional woodwork & panels for me. Maybe you could have a look at the Majestics design? I'd love to know what you think - especially if you thought they would be pretty good! Hehe! They're definitely the most expensive speakers I've ever had - even double the price of my Bose 901 series IV's I've owned previously! I just wish I still had the 300 watt MOSFET amps I'd built for them. 😠 D'oh! The Majestics just happen to be rated at 300 watts too! But yeah, I'm even happier with my choice of the Mundorfs now that I see you've used them to upgrade your Klipschs's! I'm glad they sound better for you! This doubly confirms my point!😊 👍

[@NA94753]

Interesting mod, saw a few on GR-Research say their crossover works for both the 160m and 600m. Own the 160m and believe the only differences between the two are the tweeter in the 600m is vented the 160m isn’t but the 160m has a wedge base. I can attest to the hole in the frequency response but I’ve always found I like boosted highs and lows better on my speakers whether through the speakers themselves or by eq.

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

I do as well. The EQ on these speakers is how I would adjust an equalizer (smile pattern) so is likely why I like them as is!

[@jamesmcmillan6350]

I have same speakers and they great with the Muzishare X7

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

Don't they? I think some of the subjective nature to speaker choice is both the room and what is driving them.

[@jamesmcmillan6350]

@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics I think klipsch sounds great with tube amps... I am close to pulling the trigger on some forte iv's but I dont have the space yet for them... I also like the Q Acoustic 3030i's with the muzishare but they are a little more difficult to drive..

[@marcparsons1726]

I have the RP-160 older version. I love them stock. I would have changed the electrolytic cap while open.

[@HOANGMINH-vm1rj]

Can you replace klipsch rb 61ii?

[@mariomontreuil7097]

I think i will change the tweeter cap like you with the Murdorf cAP. But if i change the other cap (the electrolitic) do you have a recomendation for a model and value of cap for the woofer cap? thank you.

[@mariomontreuil7097]

or maybe changing the resistor (mills resistor?)

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

I ended up using a Jantzen superior-Z. The mundorf was a little harsh sounding, even after some break in.

[@nerowonder]

@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics how did the Jantzen sound?

[@Carthus]

How did you know which side is plus and which is minus on the pcb when connecting the capacitor? Or doesn’t that matter? I’m trying to replace mine in a bit :)

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

With the coupling cap, it's a non-polarized film cap. Ideally the outside foil side is connected to the speaker jacks, on a mundorf, the outside foil side is on ->this side of the lettering

[@ToysForTheGods]

a splash a flux will go a long way in helping to pull the old solder out of the joint

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

nice tip!

[@kevindewinter8235]

Does the new capacitor also have the same resistance as the old one?

[@zombielandiii2711]

Hello Miss Stephe, can you please tell me what Mundorf cap is? I don't know anything about caps and soldering but i think i can do it to a pair of my RP400m. I have 3 pairs 😅 (I used them as Atmos and surrounds in a previous setup)

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

This video is just showing how to upgrade/replace the caps in a speaker crossover, choose whatever brand you think you might like the sound of.

[@iang7393]

Could you post a link to the replacement capacitors? Thanks!🙏

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

These are what I used www.partsconnexion.com/MUNDORF-76433.html

[@nerowonder]

Steph, any other recommendations for a cap with the same value?

[@nerowonder]

Also, your thoughts on this.. On Humblehomemadehifi.. EVO Oil likes to be mixed with Jantzen Audio Superior Z-Caps, the slightly bright nature of the EVO Oil blends well with the very neutral and spatious sounding Superior Z-Cap. For example when used for a large value midrange series capacitor: mixed at about one third Jantzen Audio Superior Z-Cap and two thirds Mundorf MCap EVO Oil, together they form a well-balanced rich and spatious combo

[@andrewille3092]

Hy welche Kondensatoren haben sie den benutzt die sie dran gelötet haben mfg andre 😊

[@andrewille3092]

Bzw welche jumper haben sie drann gemacht 😊

[@Truth-Machine5000]

After break in, maybe run some Vishay MKP 1837 in parallel with the Mundorf?

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

I don't feel like high quality caps need to be bypassed, but that might be a low budget option is just bypass what is there now.

[@Truth-Machine5000]

I see. I thought (the Vishay) would enhance the performance of the Mundorf, not degrade it.

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

I'm not saying it would degrade it, I'm just not sure it's needed when using a good quality cap.

[@Truth-Machine5000]

The Vishay is a polyprolene cap, which is also of exceptionally high quality.

[@mddawson1]

Do you think it would be worthwhile also upgrading the electrolytic cap?

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

It wouldn't hurt, but my understanding is that one isn't directly in the signal path like that tweeter one is.

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

Yeah there are endless crossover changes and tuning you can do to speakers, especially if there is something about them you don't like. This was just a simple $40 upgrade to do if you basically like the way they sound.

[@voiceofreason9238]

@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics If a cap isn't in the signal path, then where is it? What good would it do?

[@voiceofreason9238]

@@BelgianGadnuk Your explanation is what I thought as well. The woofer is absolutely in the signal path. It's separate from the tweeter circuit of course so the jumpers can be removed for bi-amping to separate HF from LF. The person who said the woofer was not in the signal path does not understand how a crossover works and instead depended on what somebody told him/her which was not correct.

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

Who said the woofer isn't in the signal path? O.o

[@vicg5323]

Have you demo the new caps. What is the difference heard?

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

I ended up not liking these mundorf caps used in a speaker crossover and swapped them for a pair of Jazden supreme caps.

[@nexus4googleplay612]

Was it difficult to fit the Jantzen supreme on the board? That's a honking big capacitor! I really want to do the same but thought I'd have to use a smaller Jantzen standard Z-Cap.

[@joeg3536]

which engine is in your shelf? It looks like a 2 stroke

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

A rare Yamaha KT100A rotary valve kart racing engine, modified for open class racing. We used to race karts in the 1980-1990's. Fun times :)

[@joeg3536]

Great.

[@joeg3536]

definitely you must be a engine tuner or builder too. as delicious as amplifiers. Yamaha RX100 motor bike is legend. No words abt RD350! Tuned chamber exhaust pipes..

[@manuellazarocarus9614]

👍👍👍

[@funtimeproductions5121]

Nice work!! Thoughts on the r-14m bookshelves? Should i snag em?

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

I'd spend a little more for the R51M and pair them with a small powered sub.

[@funtimeproductions5121]

@@SkunkieDesignsElectronics okay cool. I've got a small sub I picked up recently, minx x200. Really rocks in a smaller room!!

[@iang7393]

Did this mod with my RP500M. It's easier than the 600 - no bi-wiring, and no need to remove the baffle. No break-in yet, can't comment on the sound difference. Will see...

[@thomasfi1275]

Any plans to do measurements to show the improvements? Is that possible ?🤔

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

It's not likely to be measurable as we aren't changing the value of the cap, just the quality. It's going to sound the same frequency response wise, just hopefully a little crisper. The other mod just eliminates the importance of a good connection on those rear bi-amp jumper plates. Like I said, if I was planning on going to the trouble and expense to bi-amp these, I would remove the internal crossover all together, connect the jacks directly to the drivers, and then do the crossover in front of the amps.

[@jukingeo]

I wonder if increasing the cap value, would shift the crossover frequency down enough to compensate for that hole in the midrange of the frequency response.

[@kevintomb]

Yes, Danny at GR Research did exactly that, and other things...@@jukingeo

[@thomasschafer7268]

If you use audyn q6 caps 600v Type the price is much better. In germany 14€ the evo oil ans only 5.60€ for the audyn. Same capacity 3.9uf. To change the elko for the woofer with jantzen cross caps is not expensive.

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

Nice tip. Thanks.

[@kevintomb]

You are misunderstanding Danny's mod at GR Research. I am NOT a fan of him, but he is not making the speaker LOSE sensitivity, but merely making the actual response FLAT, as to compared to before where a lot of the mids and highs were artificially boosted, and creating a sensitivity rating that was false, as the bass was several decibels below the mids and treble. That is how Klipsch gets such high sensitivity ratings, they boost the mids and highs, but the bass can not be artificially boosted. In reality they are not the rating Klipsch gives.

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

I get that, but honestly, the bass of these speakers isn't weak if they are positioned in a room correctly. Measured on their own in a dead space, they probably aren't EQ'd well. I've heard a pair of these with those mods and it wasn't an improvement to me.

[@josephbrooks2891]

I've applied the RP-600M crossover kit to my speakers via the GR Research kit. After installing the updated crossovers and the No-Rez material, there was a slight decrease in efficiency. Keep in mind, I don't have a method to measure speaker efficiency, but when I put the revised RP-600M speakers back into service, I had to recalibrate my pair of subwoofers because with the revised RP-600M, the subwoofers were running a bit too hot. After recalibrating the subwoofers, all is now good. I did watch the videos on crossover process along with listening to the clips on New Record Day, but was unsure how the results would be noticed in my setup. The result? It's a sound that I'm quite happy with. I haven't lost any of that treble energy that the Klipsch has, but the mid-range issues present with the stock crossover have been resolved. I didn't install the tube connectors, but did utilize a good 5-way binding post made out of copper as I didn't want to reconfigure my speaker cables but wanted to keep them as-is with the quality banana plugs.

[@jeffbower100]

I think you misunderstood what Mr klipsch was saying,horns make the speaker efficient

[@theejoeylee]

​@@jeffbower100 it's not a horn. It's a waveguide

[@davidmorgen4558]

Thanks for the comment on G.R. research in terms of the klipsch speakers being less efficent!I ?.Does he really know what the hell he is doing To them? .Klipsch are the ones responsible for there Upgrades Not Danny Richie!

[@76DangerousD]

Exactly. If you don't like the sound don't buy them. They were designed the way they are on purpose.

[@tiloalo]

One day someone is gonna wonder why his dual amp setup doesn't work on his used speakers 😅

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

Hehe possibly.

[@antoniojoseandreomartinez9710]

👍🫂

[@alexw890]

A couple of caps is not going to fix a poorly designed crossover unfortunately.

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

A lot of folks don't like the way these sound and want to change up the crossover design. I like the way these sound and is why I didn't want to make any huge changes. YMMV

[@ManuelyLiliane]

Why did you not measure the value of the old capacitor and then compare it to the new one. Better yet, you did not measure the speaker FR before and after the modification, or compare FR of the modified one to the unmodified. This whole exercise is totally worhtless. Do it again but this time properly.

[@SkunkieDesignsElectronics]

I don't know HOW many times I can say this: I'm not a speaker expert. But why would I need to measure the values of what is printed on what are both high quality caps? And I do not expect the FR to change at all, that was the reason I used the same value cap. Feel free to "Do it again" yourself and make your own video, and ignore my videos if you like :)

[@bootstrapjesse]

That's retarded. a 3.9 uF cap is a 3.9 uF cap. No need to measure the capacitance before removing it. It would measure 3.9 uF. I roll caps in my gear all the time. Those Mundorfs will sound amazing in those Klipsch.