Knit Talk - Ep 36 - BUST DARTS - Vertical vs. Horizontal (and when to use them!)

[@tiateri541]

I learned about vertical bust darts and waist shaping in Amy Herzog’s Sweater Modifications for a Custom Fit class on Craftsy several years ago. I knit my first sweater with this class, and it still fits great. She goes through all the steps you need, including how to measure yourself and make your modifications based on your gauge and your measurements. The sweater is knit bottom up and seamed, but I didn’t mind the seaming. I have used what I learned in the class in just about every sweater I have knit since then. Highly recommend this class if you have Craftsy.

[@bonniewerner4121]

I so appreciate this episode, I’ve been knitting sweaters too baggy based on full circumference. Your diagrams were an aha moment and I look forward to going down the rabbit hole of the excellent resources you’ve provided. Good work, thank you so much for all your time in researching this for us!

[@TheUnapologeticKnitter]

Thanks so much for watching, Bonnie! Darts are definitely a big rabbit hole so I'm glad I could distill down some of it for you (and me along the way!). Have fun learning from the 'greats' who know them best!

[@karenalbery2773]

Thank you! Your simple schematics are always what i need to understand how shaping techniques affect a garment. There are a lot of how to instruction out there but they are hard to sort out for me without these basic overviews. Thank you for helping me be a happier knitter.

[@TheUnapologeticKnitter]

You're welcome! I'm glad I could be of help. It's my honor to be a part of your knitting journey!

[@NYKnitter]

I've only tried the horizontal darts, just free styled it at the time , under bust measurement is 34 but full is 41 . I was lucky 😊 enough to keep the short rows an inch left or right (six stitches for mine) I actually had nightmares of it coming out like the B52 bras my mom wore. I looked at how many stitches I had to work with (between that spot and side seams )to figure out how many additional stitches I wanted to do , before each turn (getting longer each time) Speaking of free style, I am currently trying out , shifting the arm holes back , keeping my circumference the same , just shifting , so instead of 61, front and back- I did 55 back and 67 front, ending after increases, with 234 which should have been 117 front and back - instead I have 123 front, 111 back after all my raglan increases were done and ready for sleeve separation . Jury is still out though , I will give it a try on soon, 🤞 now that I have split for the sleeves to see if it looks weird or not :P

[@TheUnapologeticKnitter]

@nyknitter That's awesome on both accounts! I have never actually tried shifting the armholes back but it sure makes a lot of sense, doesn't it? If you have breasts you definitely want more front than back. Let us know how it pans out!

[@NYKnitter]

Will do, have no idea if I am on the right track in my thinking @@TheUnapologeticKnitter

[@DebbieHQ]

I'd sure be interested in how this works for you! It's a great idea...and could be an answer! Esp since I seem to have smaller shoulders, with higher and thinner arms, and a larger bust! Hard to accommodate at times, although I know how to sew to fit me...I don't know how/where to begin in knitting (newer knitter).

[@karenbergstrand2772]

Thank you so much for this -- there are never enough resources for helping to ensure a good fit! I would also recommend watching for workshops or classes on this subject offered by Kim McBrien Evans. Thanks again -- all the best for the holidays!

[@not2old2bcrafty]

Thank you for sharing your research - I will definitely check out the resources you provide.

[@DebbieHQ]

This is common, everyday knowledge in Sewing. I was shocked that Knitting Patterns don't even allow for, at the least, where to begin modifications for bust darts! (Also that knitting patterns sure do ASSUME knowledge - and simply fail to even mention it! They forget not all knitters are heavily experienced!) The reason for the C cup+ darts "rule" is that the usual normal ease in a pattern will accommodate smaller busts, but there may not be enough for larger bustlines. And no one wants their tops swinging out frontwards! Thank you for this and the links. I've spent 6 months figuring out Bust Darts in Knitting! This specialized info isn't easy to find for some of us "larger" girls!

[@sarag1158]

When I hear bust darts I think of folding over and sewing over a line. just like you. I just found out about using short rows for bust darts but don't really have a need so I just increase a couple stitches at the horizontal apex line along the side seam. I came over because I was curious to see how Knitters did vertical bust darts, as a knitter and a sewist

[@sharonmerton9812]

Thanks so much for giving this clear overview of bust darts - really helpful. I also really appreciate your honesty wrt not "knowing" bust darts personally, but researching them and helping out us fellow knitters 🙏🥰

[@stephaniewilliams8687]

Very helpful! Thanks!

[@stitchingwithgrace]

Nicely done!

[@DianaL647]

Thank you for the great explanations. I split for armholes with more stitches in front than back all the time (or reduce back width on seamed pieces) and it helps to reduce too much stretch in front and too much room/sag in the back. It fits better this way for me but it doesn’t always fix the front hem from riding up, so often I still do approx 6 to 8 rows of horizontal shaping. I usually start at the underarm about an inch from the side seam, so am very interested to try starting an inch from the front section. I have done vertical darts once and like the fit but still have to master hiding the increase/decrease stitches better (and maybe pick yarns that hide them better). Thank you for this podcast and for your sources, I look forward to learning more!

[@sarag1158]

I've been doing the side gusset for years, just on intuition. I do right leaning increases on one side left leaning increases on the other side right under the armpit. I don't have big boobs so it's nothing drastic. maybe six to eight stitches total in worsted weight. Thank you! This has been a really educational video

[@Buttonsginger]

Thank you so very much!!

[@TheUnapologeticKnitter]

You're most welcome!

[@Marilou-g5t]

Point of bust might be the term you want.

[@TheUnapologeticKnitter]

Yes! Thank you - I couldn't have come up with that set of words if my life depended on it at the time!

[@Marilou-g5t]

@@TheUnapologeticKnitter my aunt made a custom personal sloper when she was in college and used me as her subject who was not of a size that could be bought off the shelf. My mom sewed blouses from the pattern her sister designed. I had perfectly fitted shirts for the first time! I would like to design a custom fitted longline bra and i love to knit, so i find any fabric engineering info fascinating. Thanks for another perspective and resources! Have a blessed Thanksgiving!

[@Marilou-g5t]

She made patterns as a docent at a historic site.

[@danionthegogogo]

Bust apex is a polite sewing term - LOL! Also from sewing, any bust shaping needs to end 1" from the apex to the avoid the "look here" effect.

[@danionthegogogo]

I use a combination of vertical and horizontal darts to add shaping across the upper back to accommodate my shoulder blades that stick out. Number of short rows and INC/DEC's depends on gauge, roughly 1 inch of vertical fabric and one inch of horizontal length. Otherwise the front of the sweater pulls towards the back and skews the armscye, as well as making the back hem hike up. Great topic and resources new to me. Thanks!

[@Marilou-g5t]

Gusset is logical

[@nl2766]

Thank you very much!