Why my blade wasn't cutting straight on my NorWood sawmill LM29 - norwood portable sawmills

Milling out the board and batten for the greenhouse on my Norwood LM29 band saw mill when the new blade starts to walk down into the log. At first I thought it was the blade but figured out it wasn't. Let me know what you think. :)
A better fix for blade diving problems: • This is a fix for Norw...
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[@howardkettner]

So appreciate your shout out for ideas. I learned a ton from the comments your post elicited.

[@KoalityofLife]

You're welcome, thank you for watching. :)

[@billvinyard1091]

Thanks , I have had a time as I only have oak , cherry I’m going to use RR ties as the weight causes a little movement causing me to adjust rails more. I love the mill though love your channel as it helps to learn more thanks so much ,

[@KoalityofLife]

Glad my videos help. Thanks for watching. :)

[@WalnutsandWineberries]

Thank you! Lots of good ideas here to try. I was cutting a lot of poplar with no issues and then I switched to pine and started experiencing my blade wandering. I just order some woodmizer blades thinking my blade was dull, but now I'm going to try to clean the build-up before replacing the blade.

[@KoalityofLife]

If you have a NorWood LM29 sawmill check the sawhead for level. Level to the track system. I put out another video about this and how to fix it. :)

[@WalnutsandWineberries]

@@KoalityofLife just watched the other video. I have the Harbor Freight mill but I can relate. It gives me more things to try and tune it so it's cutting correctly. Nothing more frustrating than waves in your cut after all the work put into getting that log on the mill. Thanks for all the help!

[@KoalityofLife]

@@WalnutsandWineberries You're very welcome. Feel free to share the video with anyone who might need the info. Thanks. :)

[@nlevis57]

I have a Norwood 2000 and I typically run Cooks or Timbery 10 degree blades. I'm primarily sawing softwoods off my ranch. I'm running into the same problem as you are experiencing. Pitch is building up on the blade and dulling it quickly. Since the temps here in North Idaho are below freezing, I am running windshield wiper fluid with a dash of Pinesol. This problem started for me when I sawed up a large Tamarack that had beetle intrusion. As trees do when attacked by beetles, there was a great deal of sap. Normally, at this time of year, given the cold, sap is not an issue. I tried countering the sap build up by increasing the drip rate. However, this seemed to make the problem worse. Instead of the blade diving, it began slipping. I tried more tension and less drip which seemed to help a little. Frustrated, I stopped the drip completely and cut dry. And like your experience, I discovered the blade cut better with no lubricant. Still not great, but better. I'm going to try cutting dry and slowing down the feet per second of blade rotation as well as saw travel. I also am going to clean the rubber on the band wheels. I noticed that the build up on the blade transfers to the rubber on the band wheels and causes the blade to walk off the idler wheel just enough to skew the rotation as it cuts through the log. So it seems like the following teeth in the counter clockwise rotation are cutting a little bit deeper than the leading teeth.

[@KoalityofLife]

I have gotten a lot of people commenting on what they use to keep the build up from happening. A lot seem to use diesel fluid. I don't really want to run diesel fluid. I have found that a mix of Pine Sol and blue Dawn dish soap in the water seems to work well. Also make sure the blade guides are the correctly adjusted and the same adjustment from one to the other. Thanks for watching. :)

[@danielvanraalte4835]

My first second and third cut on my mill had this problem. Then I watched your video 😂

[@KoalityofLife]

Thanks for watching :)

[@edgarmenge1277]

I am a mechanic by trade & have been looking for something new to sink my teeth into, so I have been reading & surfing the web about sawing & sawmills. In my experience as a mechanic, I have cut a lot of steel with band saws & lathes when building new equipment. I have run into this problem with some kinds of metal as well & I found changing the coolant fluid to be important, as well as the additives. Every time I have used any kind of liquid soap, it causes a problem sooner or later. Liquid soap does not like the heat. At the point of contact with the cutting edge the surfaces get fairly hot, a small amount of the water evaporates and the concentration of soap increases. As soap dries, it turns into a gum like consistency (like the cap of the dish soap bottle at the sink) & sticks to the blade & then minute particles of saw dust start to stick to the blade. When the cut is done, the blade cools off as you put it back to the start position, & the soapy saw dust mixture dries onto the blade. During the first cut it most likely has a greasy consistency, but once cooled off between cuts, that greasy surface cools & (like you said) you need a razor blade to clean the surface. You are dripping on the top, so build up is on the top. I suggest using dust water. I cannot tell you about other fluids like diesel or kerosene, but different "hardness" of the wood may require other properties in the fluid. I am sure the sap content in the wood might require different fluids. Soaps have always done me wrong in the past & the most "Overall Best Fluid" has always been plain H20 :)

[@KoalityofLife]

For the most part plain H2O has worked out the best, I have used a mix of Pine Sol with my water for some of the greener logs. Most of the wood I mill is the pine off my property and the Pine Sol seems to keep the sap at bay. Thank you for the info and thanks for watching. :)

[@sosebee12nadc13]

I experienced the same problem on my home built 30hp diesel mill cutting pecan slabs. I took a stainless wire wheel on a drill and cleaned the buildup. Then I added a diesel lube system. I took automotive fuel injectors (for a gm engine) and mounted them to spray both sides of my blade. I had to run them off a high pressure electric fuel pump and I added a return line and adjustable regulator to fine tune my spray pattern just so it would be just little enough to coat the blade on both sides.

[@KoalityofLife]

That sounds like a nice system, I don't know if I could set something like that up though. Worth a look though. Thanks for watching. :)

[@moparracer3]

I made a blade scrapper that fits tightly over the blade out of delrin or you can use nylon. It also doubles as a blade guide. Works great with the water and soap.

[@KoalityofLife]

I had thought about making something like that but hadn't gotten around to it yet. :)

[@Donz455]

I'm having the exact same problem. I thought it was the blade also, switching it multiple times. I started running more water thinking it would help clean the blade. After what you said I bet its gumming it up more. Thanks for the info , really appreciate you posting about it. I'm going to try your fix tomorrow!

[@KoalityofLife]

I have another video out showing how to level the saw head to the track. This helped more than anything else. There isn't any adjustment for it but check out my other video. I'll try to go into the description of this video and leave a link to the leveling video. Give me a min. :)

[@Donz455]

@@KoalityofLife Awesome!

[@KoalityofLife]

@@Donz455 link is in the description now. :)

[@stevefarms7494]

I found out most products that helps clean pine sap and grease that most people over think about and that's hot water .. when adding a product to keep pine sap off saw blade don't add it to cold water I think that defeats the purpose ..

[@AmericanRusticWoodworks]

Hello there So that problem was driving me crazy but it built up heat without water so I now use armor All car wash and wax and turn it down very low. Works like a charm!

[@KoalityofLife]

Thank you. Interesting mix. :)

[@larrybuchanan778]

We had good results with Blue Dawn together with Murphy's Oil Soap. No more blade wondering. The white pine logs were about 2 years down.

[@KoalityofLife]

I have been using Pine Sol with Dawn and have been having good luck but I will check out Murphy's Oil soap. :)

[@timhawkins3454]

I have the same mill and problems,nice little mill,keep your guide rollers clean also,I have found all blades aren't created or sharpened equally and that's in the same box,I made a adapter and Teflon block that supports the blade on the bottom side of the guide roller

[@KoalityofLife]

I've been thinking about making a blade guide but haven't done it yet. Does it make a big difference having the bottom of the blade supported? :)

[@Sir2Robert]

I ran a turner sawmill for years without ever using water on the blade, instead I used a mixture of 4 parts WD40 and 1 part 30 weight motor oil mixed in a quart spray bottle. I would spray a couple of shots at the point of blade contact every 15 or 20 seconds. This worked great for me, the quart mixture would last for 5 or 6 logs. You might want to give it a try.

[@KoalityofLife]

Will this mix make the belts on the drive wheels break down faster? They look like standard fan belts. :)

[@tedjohn441]

I was reading the comments and if pine-sol works great. Any thing that will cut sap. I don't own a sawmill but I use mineral spirits to clean my saws. I'm an Arborist. If the pine-sol is working keep using it if you get into something real sappy try different oil based products you would only need a drip but you still have to keep your blade cool. Great video planning on getting a saw mill some day.

[@KoalityofLife]

Thanks for watching and chiming in. Pine Sol seems to work pretty well. I love having a sawmill. I plan on getting back to milling more next spring. Lots of stuff to make for the house. :)

[@jamesmorton3650]

We always used 2:1 ratio of blue winter windshield washer fluid to water year round with no issues.

[@KoalityofLife]

Nice, thank you. :)

[@jamesstroud8018]

I have an HD 36. I cut a lot of large Southern Yellow Pine with lots of pitch an lots of heartwood. I run straight diesel drip or kerosene. Nothing else works for me. I change the belts once a year. Life is good.

[@KoalityofLife]

I'm super hesitant to run diesel or kerosene through it, don't know why, maybe just paranoia. lol Thanks for watching. :)

[@jamesstroud8018]

Koality of Life you make good videos. I don’t know where you live but I live in South Carolina. We have a lot OLD long leaf pines here in my area. They have what we in the south call fat light’rd in them. That is slang for lighter wood or fire starter wood. It is very hard and very sappy. Tough stuff! I too was very Leary of running diesel fuel or kerosene because I had heard that it will dissolve the belts. Water and Dawn, Pine Sol, windshield washer fluid, none of those things helped me much. A little bit but not much. I am 70 years old. I remembered back to when we cut firewood with a cross cut saw when I was a kid. The blade would clog up with pitch and you could not pull the saw through the wood. We would keep some kerosene in a Pepsi bottle with a pine tash stuffed into the top and sprinkle kerosene onto the blade. Then we could saw again for another few minutes. Well, I poured the water concoction out of my tank and filled it up with diesel fuel. That pretty much solved the problem. I had been spending lots of time scraping my blade, sometimes after every cut especially if the cant was wide like 20” inches square or larger. Every inch wider that a cant is means the more the blade would clog. The blade would clog severely on top and bottom. That stuff would be really hard. The blade would dive and sometimes climb. The diesel fuel makes it possible for me to saw this stuff. It will eventually dissolve your drive belt but I have heard that someone makes a belt that can stand it. I haven’t checked into that yet. I get about a year out of my belts anyway even using diesel fuel. I learned that with using diesel fuel you need to remove the blade and wipe the belts at the end of the day. That helps the life of the belts greatly. Without diesel fuel even a 12” square cant can be a pain. If you don’t want to run diesel fuel and your blade becomes really clogged with hard to scrape stuff you can just put on a new blade, coil the used blade and drop it in a tub with enough diesel fuel to cover it. Let it soak for an hour or two and the pitch will be much easier to remove and then you can run that blade again. I like sawing a lot better than scraping. 😜 Also the wider the log the faster the drip and the slower I go. Keep the videos coming. I am a subscriber.

[@KoalityofLife]

@@jamesstroud8018 Thanks for subscribing. I will be doing more milling after the house gets built and we can live in it. The plan is to get into the house and then build the cabinets and counter tops. I also want to mill out nicer stair treads and maybe some flooring for the upstairs. :) Thanks for the idea of soaking the blade in a tub of diesel fluid, that never even crossed my mind. :)

[@countryliving7743]

Thats what I'm using is diesel with a touch of bar oil in it

[@howardkettner]

@@countryliving7743 I’m definitely going to try this

[@stevestein8261]

Same exact thing. Reset ceramic and bearing guides and made sure was tracking properly and slowed water down and bingo.

[@KoalityofLife]

Nice. Thanks for watching. :)

[@ret96b]

I just ordered an LM29 last week and it should be delivered within the next two weeks. I've been doing a lot or reading on sawmill forums and talking to some friends that have mills. Many of to old timers recommend using a mix of Pine Sole and water. You don't need very much just a couple of ounces. It prevents the pitch build up and evaporates so there is no trace on the wood.

[@KoalityofLife]

Thank you very much. :)

[@ret96b]

@@KoalityofLife One of the added benefits is that if you are cutting pine or other woods that are prone to mold like pine blue mold, the Pine Sol will kill it, and stop the spread when you have is stacked and snickered for drying.

[@KoalityofLife]

@@ret96b Nice to know. There is a bottle of Pine Sol on my counter right now. I am editing the video that brought on this video and then I am off to cut a few more blue pine down so I can mill out more batten for the greenhouse and try out the Pine Sol in action. :)

[@ret96b]

Koality of Life well how did the pine sole work out?

[@KoalityofLife]

@@ret96b It worked ok, took longer to get the build up on the blade. I tried less water and then more water, didn't seem to mater, still got build up I had to scrape off after about 5 cuts. Talked to Norwood again and the guy I was talking to said it might be that the log was still frozen in the middle because it sat on the ground under 2 feet of snow this last winter and it hasn't really warmed up here yet. Thickens the sap and makes it harder to clean off. I will see on this next beetle kill log that I just dropped today. :)

[@jonjones-hc2cc]

I have a LM-29. I use about a cup of pine sol and a squirt of dawn soap. I have been milling green ponderosa pine all winter and have had no issues with sap build up or blade caking. I ran out of pine sol on day and did notice build up on the blade. Give it a try. It's cheep and you get a fresh pine scent.

[@KoalityofLife]

Thank you, I will try that. :)

[@howardkettner]

Me too. I will try this. Same issues

[@peterlanges3944]

Do you mix the pine sol and dawn soap with any water or just use it straight up? Thanks!

[@fredkorber4810]

I have the LM 29 as well, I had the same problems, I tried everything in my water, with and without water. It's the build up that makes the blade wave. This only happens a lot when the temperature is close to or just below freezing. I found that at those temperatures the water would draw the sap or pitch out of the log and make it stick more so to the blade.

[@KoalityofLife]

That makes sense. :)

[@tonywatson987]

Was there a sticky protective coating on the new blade that might have attracted sawdust? Or maybe add a blade scraper on the adjustable blade guide?

[@KoalityofLife]

All the blades I have came out of the same box of blades and I keep the blades in one of my conex boxes, nice and dry.

[@KoalityofLife]

Havent called Norwood yet, they were closed when I figured out what was causing the blade to walk. I will call them Monday morning. :)

[@skizzysmith]

You are right to look for something that has changed. Wonder if it's to do with temperature, and the water, and liquid soap, if the amount changes or temp changes, could that produce a stickyness which sawdust sticks to? Might even be a change in the contents of the soap? If the blade gets cooler, it contracts slightly, might pull on the guide wheels unevenly? Just trying to think what it could be, it worked ok before with water with soap.

[@KoalityofLife]

I'm still trying to figure it out. I figure the sawdust and pitch would be on both sides of the blade not just one side. :)

[@stevensunsera8727]

When cutting pine use pine sol (pine oil solvent) with water in your tank. I would still use a bit of detergent. I would use it whenever cutting softwood. Not necessary for hardwood but all softwood contains pitch.

[@KoalityofLife]

I'm slowly figuring all this out. Thank you for the input and thank you for watching. :)

[@stevefarms7494]

The biggest product that will have a big affect on pine sap is hand sanitizer and rubbing alcohol.. but I also found out that white vinegar works good to .. most products work but the water has to be hot like dish soap and other products that supposed to clean pine sap

[@KoalityofLife]

Pine Sol works great. :)

[@billvinyard1091]

I Have the same saw , what do you have yours mounted to? I’m moving mine and was interested?

[@KoalityofLife]

I used pressure treated 4x4s to make a base for my sawmill to bolt to. It's pretty sturdy, I have only had to adjust the level once after the initial time. :)

[@bartmcdonald1251]

i wonder if you put the water on the part after the cut, it would cool it without making a paste then compressing it inside the cut. i just talked to a guy at a fair, and he said he never runs the water

[@KoalityofLife]

Water is there to keep the blade cool, without running water the blade will heat up and dull faster. :)

[@murraydelawski7496]

Some time those half dry tree will do that to .knots and some tree are just timber bound and you cut and the boards just go up down to the side .

[@KoalityofLife]

This is true. Thanks for watching. :)

[@murraydelawski7496]

You can run windshield washers in it or water soap and a little diesel.

[@KoalityofLife]

I usually run a mix of Pine Sol and water, works pretty well. :)

[@galanjones8123]

I found out that blade curve can be cause by sap on blade or leave you're blade tention overnight or days at time

[@KoalityofLife]

I have heard about not keeping tension on the blade when not in use. I did a few things to help keep them from snapping. Don't really know what worked but something seems worked because I don't snap blades like I use to. :)

[@galanjones8123]

PS be sure to check out your blade alinement and bed level .

[@KoalityofLife]

Just leveled the bed with a couple shims. :)

[@donaldlanciano492]

Thankyou I'm having the same problem and it has been so frustrating

[@KoalityofLife]

You're welcome. I have another video about the blade diving if you want to check it out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pmOmdIyBgqtjbJo

[@donaldlanciano492]

I'm running an lt35 hydraulic mill. I can adjust my blade guides very easily without shimming it. However that hasn't been my issue I haven't been back to the mill yet but I'm hoping that if I stop running the water it helps. Because I have some of the clearest pine I've seen in a long time and I don't want to ruin anymore boards

[@KoalityofLife]

@@donaldlanciano492 Nice. Have fun milling. :)

[@donaldlanciano492]

Well turns out that's not the issue. It has to be the guides Luke you said I just have to figure it out.

[@KoalityofLife]

@@donaldlanciano492 Let me know what fixes it. I get questions from time to time and its nice to be able to send someone in the right direction. :)

[@gmanc433]

I have a LM29 a year old and have ran into this issue. I found the same problem, with the build up on the blade, and what seemed to cause this is a build up on the belts. So every time I change the blade I take a scraper and clean off the build up on the belts. I also run windshield washer fluid in my water tank, Not soap, and Definitely NOT oil or solvent as this will degrade the belts. I have had my mill for a year and it is time to get a new set of belts and I will buy a spare set to have on hand

[@gmanc433]

Just a side note, I use a mixture of windshield washer fluid and water, in winter ill use more WWF then water. And I only turn the little valve on enough to just change the sound of the blade running on the wheels. Too much water will clog up sawdust in the guard, and too little water will give you build up. Check the build up on your belts

[@KoalityofLife]

@@gmanc433 I don't know if it was the log I was milling or the cup of Pine Sol I added to the water but the build up went away and hasn't come back yet. I had heard that some logs that sit on the ground under snow can freeze and if you don't let it thaw out all the way it will cause more build up on the blade. The log I was having the problem with had sat on the ground through the winter with 2 feet of snow on it. Haven't had a chance to really check this being as that was the only log I had that sat out all winter but I know I don't have the problem anymore. :)

[@mgbill793]

Use diesel fuel. Check to make sure your guides are holding your blade perfectly level. Flatness of the blade is the most important.

[@KoalityofLife]

Yes, the blades need to be level and the same distance away from the back edge of the guides so the tension is the same. Figured out that Pine Sol and Dawn dish soap mixed in with the water works best for me. Thanks for watching. :)

[@SuperHurdman]

Might be your tension try giving it a couple more turns!

[@KoalityofLife]

:)

[@galanjones8123]

Blade cake up sometimes you just have to work with it soap helps but some of the time it is a little thing like more set will do or not

[@KoalityofLife]

I have been experimenting with all kinds of stuff and I have been working on a blade cleaner in some of my spare time. :)

[@galanjones8123]

Water is needed to cool blade butt sometimes you need soap I have used Dove soap and works fair butt any pine is hard to work with 😎

[@KoalityofLife]

I have a mix of Pine Sol and Dawn dish soap I use with my water now. Works pretty well so far. :)

[@williamturkewitschturkewit1549]

Imma check..cuz I've been cursing my mill for the same reason..😡

[@KoalityofLife]

Make sure your cutting head is level with your deck also. :)

[@davidgray9292]

I use farm diesel ,it works great

[@KoalityofLife]

I was a little worried about diesel destroying the belts on the drive wheels. Have you had a problem with that at all? :)

[@michaelrocray2670]

Use to use citrus oil , kerosene, something to keep the saw cool and clean

[@KoalityofLife]

I have heard the kerosene idea from a few people, I might have to try it some day. :)

[@michaelrocray2670]

@@KoalityofLife I worked in a lumbermill for Ethan allen for 20 years as a Sawyer on a double cut bandsaw and we used kerosene with citrus oil and it worked great , the citrus is there for smell only

[@weshowe51]

Mixing oil (in the sap) and water requires a surfactant. I never had a saw mill, but most herbicides and insecticides are oil-based compounds you mix with water. My prices are surely outdated, but dish soap was about $3/pint, but at the farm store I could buy a gallon of Anionic Surfactant for $10. The farm stuff has no hand softeners, perfumes or other ingredients, just a pure soap-like compound. Like your saw blade, you don't want gunk on your spray nozzles, or bad things happen.

[@KoalityofLife]

Thank you. I will have to see what my local farm store has. :)

[@ucirick]

Windshield fluid and pine sol never freezes and stays cool because it has methanol it and pine sol cuts the sap good sawing

[@KoalityofLife]

Thank you for the idea. :)

[@toddhutchins8877]

Pin sol been working for me 🤠

[@galanjones8123]

And check all bearings and rollers

[@KoalityofLife]

The blade guides not being set correctly and evenly will cause the blade to dip or climb in the cut also. :)

[@Tommy-gf7jz]

Has anyone tried a quick spray of brake cleaner on the blade ????? Followed by water and fairy liquid as blade lube works for me all the time and if its really caked up turn your blade lube tap all the way open adjust the nozzle so it sprays it over the whole blade run it for 60seconds olvefore you go into a log and it's clean like a mirror however I have ceramic blade guides on my mill so they keep it clean the only place I get pitch build up is on the teeth edge . But following those steps that's soon sorts that

[@KoalityofLife]

That's something I will have to try but I have one question, what is fairy liquid? Thanks for watching. :)

[@danielebrparish4271]

Check your blade for the correct tension. Different width blades require different tension. There are tension measuring gages out there so find one and use it.

[@KoalityofLife]

It wasn't the blade tension. It turned out to be the cutting head not being level and not having an adjustment for it. I put out another video about it and how to fix it. :)

[@michelmercier3036]

juste put grease on strap wheel on left side try it with water and soap

[@KoalityofLife]

Thank you. :)

[@rogerstepp3385]

I sharpen my own blades my teeth setting was off . One side was 47 mic the other side was 62 mic. The micromitor don't lie.

[@KoalityofLife]

Hopefully some day I have my own sharpener. :)

[@rogerstepp3385]

I set my teeth everyother sharpening or at least the third sharpening.

[@arlenesauder1913]

I was wondering if this is ever happened in the past, because it could be bum blades

[@KoalityofLife]

I had a problem with the blade diving any time I pushed the machine at all until recently when I was contacted by another LM29 owner who told me about leveling the sawhead. I put out a video about this a few months ago. :)

[@murraydelawski7496]

Check the level of your blade itself??

[@KoalityofLife]

Checked that also, turns out the blade was out of level :)

[@claytonhillier9496]

We run deizel fuel about a drip every 2 seconds if that helps you out

[@KoalityofLife]

Thanks, a lot of people have said they use diesel fuel but I haven't tried it yet. :)

[@StevesDIYProjects7]

the amish guys not far from me who i get milled wood from have paint brushes they rub on the blade and they have some way of the recycled oil dripping down on the paint brush which is helping clean the blade both sides 2 different brushes. be a min before i am up there again and snag a pic. but they also use pine sol and water with same set up dripping onto paint brushes that rub the blades. simple spring that barely pulls on brush to push against blade lightly. as it runs past its pretty neat idea their mill works from gas engine. its some old mill i couldnt even guess name. no real safety about it at all its massive they mill wood for making their homes and barns and many things for locals. he told me they sharpen their own blades and have way to recycle them on getting new ones. but he had a whole jig tool set up he could sharpen a whole blade in 30 mins but said he wouldnt get as many cuts and can only sharpen so many times. these dudes are fun to watch in action they move fast and get job done and rip logs down fast do it all by hand or horse chain saws take big ass logs mill em down 30 mins have bunch lumber stacked on your trailer.

[@StevesDIYProjects7]

note i think they only use the oil certain times for certain woods kinda like treated to a point to help repel insects. recycled oil can have lead in it and old gas so not safe for most things under epa standards lol.

[@KoalityofLife]

@@StevesDIYProjects7 I had thought about some type of oil but didn't want that expense. lol I run threw a lot of water when I'm using the mill. Need to figure something out though. :)

[@StevesDIYProjects7]

@@KoalityofLife pine sol.

[@KoalityofLife]

@@StevesDIYProjects7 You'll have to forgive me for this but I didn't know Pine Sol was for pine. Thought it was just a name?

[@StevesDIYProjects7]

@@KoalityofLife name of a cleaner

[@michelmercier3036]

my i run the blade 50/50 on band wheel

[@KoalityofLife]

I center mine the best I can. :)

[@cedayi571]

Your problem look like 1- guide (%95 I belive problem is guide)check ceramic should be at least small touch blade.. And guide supposed cower all blade only tip should stay out 2-blade shapering problem 3-tips crossing if it bit correctly it can't dive But it is not related water.. If you don't use any cooling you will broke your blade very easy

[@KoalityofLife]

Yes one of the blade guides was farther away from the blade causing most of the build up on the blade. The Pine Sol and Dawn dish soap mixture I have started using in the water is keeping the blade super clean now. :)

[@garyarsenault7445]

just thought maybe the motor is not turning enough rpm

[@KoalityofLife]

The motor is running high RPM, full throttle on the bar. Thanks for the thought though. :)

[@chiskiewoodcreations9575]

When you squeeze the throttle reach over and push the lever on the engine and see if it speeds up. Mine does and saw a video of someone who had the same problem.@@KoalityofLife

[@KoalityofLife]

@@chiskiewoodcreations9575 I'll have to check that out - something I hadn't thought of. :)

[@smity7096]

Diesel drip

[@KoalityofLife]

Little leery of running diesel fuel. I have found that Pine Sol works pretty well though. :)

[@smity7096]

Diesel fuel drip on blade. Problem solved

[@KoalityofLife]

Seems a lot of people like to use diesel fuel, Might be worth a try this next spring. :)

[@rodneymeidl5661]

Trust me,...diesel fuel will rot or deteriorate your belts. It does work, but you pay the price in new belts.

[@KoalityofLife]

I don't think I will be using diesel fuel, I have found a good mix of Pine Sol and Dawn dish soap to add to my water. Works great so far. :)

[@claytonhillier9496]

We’ve been running deizel for over 20 years with out a problem

[@HamishandKyloe]

Try kerosene rather than water...

[@KoalityofLife]

That would be an expensive endeavor. But there has to be an answer to how to keep the blade clean. Maybe a different soap? :)

[@HamishandKyloe]

From what I used to know, Ivory was the last remaing "real soap" out there. It'd be worth a shot

[@scor440]

FYI it wasnt cutting flat straight is a directional word .

[@KoalityofLife]

True but if you look at it another way it wasn't cutting straight in the direction it was going. Thanks for watching. :)

[@scor440]

There is no other way to look it wasn’t cutting flat

[@HamishandKyloe]

maybe the soap was causing it to stick that the water alone, wouldn't.

[@KoalityofLife]

This might be the problem, but the old blade never had the build up problem and I milled the same piece of wood with it. Very baffling to me. :)

[@idrissk5970]

বাংলায় দেখান

[@idrissk5970]

সব মানুস বুজতে পারে বাংলা তাহলে বাংলাভাষায় বলুন

[@KoalityofLife]

@@idrissk5970 I cant get a translation on this but thanks for watching. :)