KODAK PORTRA vs FUJI WEEKLY RECIPE - LEICA M6 / FUJIFILM X100V

[@fofotti]

This is a great comparison and it’s so important for Fujifilm users to see the similarities and differences between the film simulation and the actual film.

[@kstrohmeier]

To me the Fuji files were consistently warmer than the film images and I typically liked the film images more. It was fun to see the side by side comparisons.

[@Goughie]

I think overall I too preferred the film images! Film always seems to perform when the suns out!

[@natniszakov_]

I'm getting my XT30 today and I can't wait to try your recipe out! Thank you so much!

[@KristerAnne]

great video! i've been trying to figure out why my shots were a bit too greenish for my taste and your WB tweak helped a lot! can't wait to shoot more with this new recipe, thank you

[@TarrelScot]

Portra is an amazing film, and worth every penny IMHO. Often imitated, never bettered!

[@ivanvalko9621]

personally, I love portra simulation, for many scenes works totally perfect for me. But, what I always mind was the greenish look. I intuitively adjusted my portra settings to R+4 B-4, worked much better for me. As I see I was quite close to you in color adjustment :) Anyway, thanks for perfect comparison, it's helpful definitely

[@jomarceloco]

This honestly is a good recipe

[@leehargreaves7473]

I started out using precise recipes for film simulations, I mean using the Portra 400 recipe because I wanted the Portra 400 look. However NONE of the simulations look like the film they are intended to mimic, SO... I just went to Fuji X Weekly and tried out recipes until I found one that did what I wanted. I renamed them things like "Pan F", "Very Black", and "Kodak" in my settings, based on what I thought they reminded me of. For example, my Pan F is not the same as other Pan F recipes but it gives me the lower contrast, wide dynamic range, sharp detail, I am looking for. My "Very Black" recipe is Acros with lots of contrast. and my favourite look. My Kodak recipe is based on a Fuji X Weekly Kodak recipe but tweaked until I get that hint of warmth I wanted. In summary the Fuji X100 series may not give you the precise film look straight out of camera but it gives you the flexibility to create what you were looking for. You can certainly do all this in the time it takes you to process 36 negatives, scan them, then edit them. I honestly don't see the point in using film then digitising it. Either use film and develop it straight into prints or use a digital camera.

[@shy-guy5544]

This is very interesting. Perhaps you could list your Pan F recipe. Thanks

[@Mononoken]

You're an absolute G for this one. Nobody has done this that I've found!

[@Goughie]

Thanks Ken! 💪🏻

[@nguyendaniel7042]

At the end of the day, actual film is still the actual film. I cant afford film because of their high price rn but the X100v nailed it perfectly. Im currently happy with my first camera as a x100v, cant complain and its perfectly for a film lover like me :D

[@luxdalet]

Another amazing video. Your photography's composition is fantastic. Your thorough comparison of the film with digital is really fun. Highly recommend you send Fuji X Weekly your adjusted recipes, he is great with suggestions and accepting contributions. Happy New Year and Happy Holidays!

[@Goughie]

Happy new year to you too!

[@fabian9155]

Hey - thank you so much for all your great videos. I'm in love with my new X-E1 and wish Fuji would revive that sensor. I came across an awesome Interpretation of Portra 400 there which is based on pro neg high (don't like color chrome - mostly boring). I spend the day trying to mimic that result on the x100v - it is unbelievable how different the base settings need to be if you want to achieve the same results. It comes down to whitebalalance a lot and color saturation. Whereas the xe-1 only needs a - 1 redshift - the x100v needed a +3 redshift (x-e1 is at 6300k, x100v is at 6700) and plus 3 color setting. It's all about the warmth these newer sensors are missing. Pretty happy with the result though.

[@worldexplored5300]

(2nd recipe, for X-T3/X-T30) Classic Chrome Dynamic Range: DR-Auto Highlight: -1 Shadow: -1 Color: +2 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: -2 Grain Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect: Strong White Balance: Daylight, +4 Red & -5 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)

[@MatthiasHaltenhof]

Thanks for doing this, I readjusted my setting and like it a lot better now!

[@mjfalcon007]

This is fantastic, thank you so much for taking the time to create this video and show us the differences and suggestions where to change. Beautiful photography!

[@Kkvta]

I made my own portra using the x100v, and it actually turned out very close to yours! Only change I've done is -3 in blues and +4 in clarity because I think it gives the photo more film vibes along with negative sharpening, something about the pronounced borders of objects. Would love to see more film sim (x100v) - analog videos, really enjoyed the comparisons and chase for the analog vibe. Will you post more? Subscribed!

[@jasonbokar7482]

These videos are fantastic! Looking forward to the next (and the next! :-) ). I learn so much from these. I’ve always wanted to like the FujiX Weekly Portras, but they were always too green for my liking so I’ve even backed off more than your new suggestion. Thank you again!

[@Goughie]

Glad you’re enjoying this mini series!

[@AlfonsoSprohnle]

What an amazing series of videos!

[@SneekeeMonkee]

Really nice to have this comparison. I've gone and tried to balance some recipes for Portra and Kodak Gold against negatives I've shot and definitely find that once the negatives are ran thru an auto-WB, the Fuji recipes land as far too warm and green. I think as a rule of thumb if you reduced the tint adjustments by 50-75% on most kodak recipes, you'll end up pretty close to a nice color match

[@professionalpotato4764]

Thank you for such an amazing video. Great to see the comparisons side by side.

[@tomislavmiletic_]

In my opinion, if the shadows are set to -1 (instead of -2), and colour shift set a bit into blue / purple area, in general all those images would be almost perfectly matched...

[@L.Lyubomirov]

The colors from the M6 are simply stellar !

[@AndreasJoachimLins]

First thanks for your comparison. In fact I like your real-film photos in terms of colors much more than the X100V-emulated pics. F.e. I really like your shot at 9:13 in film - the X100V is way too greenish and has - at least for me - nothing to do with the Portra look from your Leica - so ... have you ever tried to change the Portra recipe of the X100V to match your film? Best wishes - Andreas

[@Goughie]

At about 10:15 I put up my suggested values that I often use to try and match them up a bit better

[@nigelrogers8690]

Love a day out in Brighton snapping 👍🏾 Great comparison 👏🏾

[@Goughie]

Definitely one of my favourite places in England!

[@gashead2]

The Leica images are my favourite, the Fuji shots are too green for my taste. Great video thanks

[@NateG459]

very very grateful for this video. Very helpful, thanks!

[@CoreyCaptures]

Great comparison video, man! I used your settings and I LOVE it! Good work! Keep it up!

[@GeorgeRiveraPhotography]

Wonderful video and great images. Looking forward to seeing more in the upcoming year. Happy New Year!

[@Goughie]

Thank you! Happy new year to you too!

[@stuartcarden1371]

Always good to see Brighton on youtube and looking beautiful. Happy New Year Goughie

[@Goughie]

I love it down there! Happy new year to you too! 🎉

[@kaleikalei3495]

really love the content, keep it up man!

[@avs4365]

great educational comparison - found it very useful. Luckily enough to own two Xpro 3's, and enjoy setting up 7 varying Fuji Weekly on each - one colour, the other monochrome. Reminds me a little of the film days but far more fun than being totally tied to film - and less expensive! Favourite? Leica M10 & Leica colour. Take Raw & JPG and it's fun to tweak either to something I find fits my taste for the scene. Have subscribed. Many thanks for posting.

[@GermanoHeitor]

Based in all sky images you have, except the one at 7:48 that I think you should have exposed a notch higher to match, the Color Chrome FX blue should be set to STRONG instead of WEAK (blues darker with more contrast). This is not about the tint of the sky, it's about it's contrast - with WEAK it has way less separation than the film you shown here.

[@Lennyisadog]

It would be cool if you made your adjustment suggestions in the description to reference when working with the recipe

[@brittanywinston9227]

cool to see a comparison i liked all of the M6 images better which was surprising as a v owner

[@adrianxrodrigues]

This is pretty cool, I am trying to adjust the wb to get a more similar color to leica photos on your video, I think its possible to get something close to that

[@christophsauer2857]

Thanks. I would like to see a comparision of your Leica M6 film results and some digital Leica how colors and analogue impression on such digital Leica would be.

[@bhop.builds]

About your 'green tint' comment'. I've always had a green tint with Portra. Moreso with the 160 version, but a little with 400 as well, although, not as much as your video shows on the Fuji side. I also self-develop, but I use the Unicolor kit, and scan with Epson, (and more recently Nikon DSLR with Negative Lab Pro) but even when I'd have it developed at a lab, it was always towards the green side. All that aside, I enjoyed the video and can't wait to try out the recipe on my X-Pro2!

[@Goughie]

It’s interesting hearing about other peoples experiences, and how they vary! Thank you for watching

[@worldexplored5300]

Kodak Portra 400 (original recipe, for X-Trans III) Classic Chrome Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +2 Color: -2 Noise Reduction: -3 Sharpening: +1 Grain: Strong White Balance: Custom, +2 Red & -5 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1 to +1-1/3 (typically)

[@just_eirik]

Great video! Most of us can’t compare these things ourselves, so its really nice to see someone on KZbin do it. Also, now I want an X100v! I’ve never wanted any of those cameras before because the lack of interchangeable lenses. But right now I want one. If nothing else, it would be good to get my curiosity out of my system :P

[@Goughie]

Thank you for the kind comments! That last sentence made me laugh! “Would be good to get it out my system” That’s exactly what I thought when I hired it for a few days at the start of last year! What harm could it do?! Apparently £1100 worth of harm to my bank account 😂 Lack of interchangeable is a bit of a pain, but you can get adapters for 28mm and 50mm! Which helps a lot on that front

[@just_eirik]

@@Goughie Haha oof. I’m guessing it was worth it in the long run though?

[@Goughie]

@@just_eirik yes! My most used camera of the year by a long way

[@James011]

Great comparison thanks! We’re the images taken at the same shutter speed and f stop? Interested if the colour difference may because of colour shifts from different exposures?

[@zeus4080]

Wow, I had no idea it was 'Clarity' that was causing the delay between shots. (thought it was my memory card being too slow). I am using a 'Kodachrome II' recipe atm, and clarity was +1. Just set it to zero (barely any visual difference) and now there's no delay anymore. Many thanks!

[@Goughie]

Frustrating isn’t it!

[@zeus4080]

@@Goughie big time! almost got put off recipes altogether. Glad I came across your vid! Subbed ofc :D

[@pizza.doctor]

Bought two high speed cards before finding that out

[@zeus4080]

@@pizza.doctor man, same. Only the one card. I just realised the other day its not just clarity either. I was using another recipe, and reduced clarity altogether to avoid it, but Im still suffering with it. it might just be the chip trying to keep up with everything. I dunno. But Im lost here lol. (tri-x recipe im getting it on too)

[@pizza.doctor]

@@zeus4080 i didn't notice any slowdowns except for when the clarity is different than zero (even if it's a negative value it still slows the camera down) so basically you have to not use it at all

[@dominicpanico2682]

Love this, I will roll with your recipe for a bit to see how I like it. I agree the Fuji looks a lot more green where the Leica pulls more magenta. Some of your shots I enjoyed the fuji and others the Leica. My taste is all over the place haha.

[@Sparky3D]

If you added a stop or two less green to the Fuji recipe it would better match the film as the film shots have more magenta

[@PixPete]

I shoot on Fuji because I love film so much but I have to be honest the side by side comparisons here are pretty disappointing. I don't see similarities at all, I see huge differences, and not just in colour. The film images have an almost magical feel to them, and certainly much higher quality. Dynamic range of the film is made plainly obvious far exceeding that of digital - just look at the images towards the end where you're looking across the beach into the sun. Everything is just smoother, clearer and more pleasing to the eye.

[@ArmandSalmon]

Really excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to do what it seems many had wondered about. One note, on your sharpness, it states -5, but my X100V only shows -4 maximum. There's definitely some where the portra film looks better but in some scenarios the warmer tones of the recipe (like the final shot) seem to lend more of a mood that was pleasing to me. Question: what camera strap do you use in the shots with the round clips?

[@Goughie]

Thank you for the kind words, peak design straps! They are very convenient!

[@LC-nd9hv]

please try the portra 160 recipe. I hear it's the closest version.

[@larsvadgaard]

Would you recommend setting a custom white balance or perhaps using auto white balance instead of the fixed temperature given in the video or on Fuji X Weekly? The fixed temperature doesn’t perform well in all situations, but I’m also afraid of deviating too much from the intended look.

[@Goughie]

Films stock essentially do have a fixed white balance, and shooting films in alternate conditions to what they are made for do give different looks. So I think having a fixed white balance does make sense, I just like to turn down the offset If you did go with an auto white balance then you’ll end up with a far more versatile recipe that will suit more scenarios, My advice… do it, give it a go, what’s the worse thats going to happen, you’ll just end up putting it back.

[@punit213]

Loved the video! What number do you think the blues should be moved to be more accurate to Portra film!?

[@Goughie]

Right near the end of the video I put my suggested settings up on the screen 10:16

[@peterhuang5011]

Fantastic comparison! I also used that film simulation a lot but I also noticed that -6 blue is too much. I would adjust that according to your recipe and give it a try, thanks again!

[@Hoo_huu]

Love this but these are completely two different look wow.

[@GlockenSpiel]

Great comparison! thank you!

[@segzeeman7356]

A lot of Ritchie’s recipes have too much yellow and green casts. I always modify the recipes I use.

[@GregoryChan]

can you share your modifications? thanks! :)

[@seanivrymusic]

Why not match the color and clarity settings on the x100v more?

[@potatohouse]

굉장히 유익한 정보였네요! 흥미롭기도 하구요!!👍👍👍

[@lupegaming1567]

Thanks a lot for this video, very informative and interesting. Do you think adding more blue would balance out the green tint? I like the warmer version as shot on the leica

[@Goughie]

You’re probably best of countering a green tint with purple

[@farrelfoster-lynam6683]

Great vid! I'm hoping you'll do another comparison with your modified recipe vs film, even if it's just on Instagram. Speaking of which, can I suggest putting your Instagram link in the vid descriptions or 'About' tab. Had to go back through the video to find it

[@Goughie]

How have I missed this! I’ll get it added to the descriptions!

[@LeifEliyahu]

Don´t forget the colourrendering of your lenses. That can be a big different.

[@jaegerschtulmann]

mmm I find the portra recipes too green for my taste. It would be incredible if new iterations of fuji cameras gave you tone curves in camera for rgb channels like in lightroom or capture one so that you can make fine adjustments in shadows, midtones and highlights regarding color.

[@worldexplored5300]

Kodak Portra 400 v2 - Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe Film Simulation: Classic Chrome Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 5200K, +1 Red & -6 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: 0 Shadow: -2 Color: +2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

[@eXplosive91]

Hey have you tried leaving the wb on auto (with the added shift) ? Saw another guy do that and it seemed to get rid of some of that too warm/green shift as well

[@Goughie]

Yes! And it works but is it a film emulation if it has a variable white balance, I’m not too sure! Definitely will give it a different more versatile look

[@eXplosive91]

@@Goughie haha yeah thats another discussion. I just tried it and also compared it to his other portra 400 version which has way less of the greenish colour shift imo.. In his article of the v2 he writes that he did it because of the various different ways that film can be processed and developed...So v2 isn't an "upgrade" in that sense but just another take on the same film. Will try your suggested adjustments now :)

[@MumtazBahri]

I am wondering why did you edit the Leica photos white balance to auto? I think it is better to match it as is because you have fixed 5200K white balance on the x100v, I would like to see the film photos without editing the white balance.

[@Goughie]

It’s hard to know what’s best, something at some point has to interpret the white balance. You have a choice really - the scanner software (silverfast) - the conversion software (neg lab pro) - lightroom I’ve found that I get the most consistent results with lightroom, the others often just get it completely wrong It’s always the problem with scanning, so much is up for interpretation by lots of different software. Without doing it, 80% basically look as they do, I usually find that lightroom adds a slight addition of warmth. 20% of them a reasonable big difference before lightroom white balance as prior software has got it very wrong. One option was for me to tweak this 20% manually. Decided that just added another variable. Hopefully helps explain why I’ve done what I did. Ideally for best results you’d need the film printed properly

[@MumtazBahri]

@@Goughie Thank you very much for your very detailed and helpful answer ❤ my concern was mostly about the tint more than the warmness because I noticed that in most of the photos from Leica has more magenta and no idea if that was produced from the Lightroom or the nature of the film. thank you again, Mumtaz

[@calebjhawkins]

Great video man!

[@venividdivici0]

hmm it looks like the warm tones in the digital images infecting parts that they should not to match the real film look, like a layer that just put over the picture I dont know..

[@wideawake94]

I just got an X100F, I don't see the 5200k option for white balance. It just jumps from 5000k to 5300k. Is there a setting where I can change this?

[@rafaelpierce6431]

Great! Thank you

[@justincasehd7524]

What’s the cheapest Fuji cam with film recipes?

[@RonnyKohlmann]

What a great take on the fuji recipes and overall well put together and structured. I really enjoy your content and agree with your statement towards the end. It doesn't really matter at the end of the day. The jpgs from fuji are so so good. I enjoy my X100V for the exact reason. Out of curiosity which Kodachrome recipe are you using mainly ? Thanks and happy new year

[@Goughie]

I’ve been using the Kodachrome 64 recipe, I find it’s a little better than the portra recipe when it’s not sunny. Thank you for the kind words! And happy new year to you too!

[@fernwehtwl]

i have the x100f and wondering if i could still do this

[@giantusa]

They are close enough, but I personally prefer the looks of the recipe ones which at times look even more film-like than the actual film.

[@TheJamSpring]

I'm unable to change the dynamic range setting to 400. It only allows till 100. How can I change that to make the recipe in my Fuji X100v?

[@Goughie]

Might be because your iso is set to a fixed value. Dr200 requires a minimum of 320 and dr400 640

[@WanderingDiabetic]

Great video

[@olepetterson4382]

Great video and really helpful! I would love a more accurate recipe to the real Portra on film. But the yellow haze that is on the Fuji kinda turn me off. Do you of a way to get rid of that? Its not that I don't think the images look bad. But I think it kinda looks artificial and losing its filmic look.

[@Goughie]

I think I give an updated version at the end??

[@olepetterson4382]

@@Goughie Yes you did. I edited the preset in my camera to match your settings. But will that get rid of the yellow haze? Did you shoot all of the photos in the film on the fujiweekly settings with no tweaks? Thanks for taking the time to reply:)

[@Goughie]

@@olepetterson4382 it was all the recipe in the video, not sure I provided any with the tweaks! Been a while since I made it!

[@olepetterson4382]

@@Goughie Thanks! will check tomorrow when I can try it in the daylight. I am also shooting the Leica M240. Do you have a workflow for getting Portra look from that? I see you are also fond fond of the 240:)

[@andyl4565]

On my uncalibrated monitor the Fuji imagees have a terrible green cast and don't even come close to the Leica with Portra images. I found this with many of the film recipes that I've tried that use extreme settings in the white balance. It makes me wonder if the creators were going for a retro look from their childhoods of poorly stored and exposed film? I've dropped many of the recipies now and just go with Fuji's film sims, which are usually more pleasing to my eye.

[@godsinbox]

big difference in greens. funny that, until digital, we never saw real green in photos.

[@lunamagic8]

how do you get your image yellowwwwwww

[@geo7geA]

With your recipe, do you mean sharpening as sharpness as minus 4? I don’t think the x100v goes to minus 5

[@Goughie]

Yes apologies! -4

[@JuanSewDLKS]

As a user, owner and fan of x100v, I have to say that it's not even close. Leica images are so much better, they are light years away.

[@daviddavidd9883]

why do you want it to match your leica? I can see matching socks, but cameras?

[@Goughie]

I often don't match socks! mad lad

[@mex5341]

all these JPEG are not SOOC , right ? you did some adj.

[@Goughie]

SOOC JPEGS

[@mex5341]

@@Goughie too strange. I can’t get the same result using the same receipt. really lacks contrast and black. it all ended with the fact that filming in Raw is still better and more convenient

[@Goughie]

@@mex5341 these recipes can be quite dependant on what gen sensor, I still shoot raw all the time too, these are more for fun and a quick share, and then RAW for the prints They are also super dependant on the light

[@cornellouis]

Kind of shocked how much better the film looks. The film simulation is really far off.

[@andrewrose3305]

Easy to send to my phone using the app xD

[@Goughie]

I’ve had other people say they struggle with it, have you had issues? but it’s always worked flawlessly for me across my X-T4, X100v, X-Pro3 and the X-E4 I hired recently, maybe it’s to do with newer models or certain phones

[@andrewrose3305]

@@Goughie yeah that may be the case. I have an X-H1 and it’s unreliable enough that I’ve just given up and only load from the SD card onto my iPad.

[@-grey]

I like the Fuji weekly Ektar 100, but switch chrome to Astia because chrome is garbage at reaching the same level of vibrance as Ektar 100. Astia is was closer, to the point that it simulates Ektar better than it does Astia film. The rest of their recipes are just muddy green brown haze, and not worth the effort.

[@RandomWalker1995]

After this video I have to say the tint is completely wrong in the recipe, lol

[@Goughie]

I think so too! Definitely gives a fun look though that a lot of people associate with film

[@luminouswaves2640]

To be honest, most people shoot Leica because of the Leica glass. By using the subpar vm 28mm instead of summicron lenses does not do the Leica justice. I can see a lot of color rendering and distortion, vignetting corners and other optical flaws that is the signature of the voigtlander glass. In addition, having V600 scanner instead of frontier/Noritsu scan is just… really unfair for the voigtlander vs Fuji comparison. All in all I’m just trying to say that shooting film leica has a lot of advantage which are not presented in this comparison (leica glass, proper dip n dunk process and lab scans…. Etc) which does not do the Leica justice. However, I do give you credit on your Fuji recipe, they are as good as they can be. But if you ever do have a chance to put on the leica 28 summicron ASPH V2 or experience the Leica 35mm summicron V4 king of bokeh rendering. I’m sure you won’t be saying the Fuji is anywhere close. Keep up the hustle Cheers

[@Goughie]

Have shot the v4 35mm f2, and owned the 35mm f2.5, and 50mm F1.4 ASPH, felt I wasn’t getting the value out of them and selling them made way for the M6. Most images here are shot at f8 and higher so most optical issues should be ironed out Yes though them Leica lenses would lead to a better result and a frontier scan would also. How much of a difference it’s really hard to know. Will likely add Leica glass back to the collection at some point I think in many cases even with some bits hindering the performance of the Leica, I much prefer the film images.

[@luminouswaves2640]

@@Goughie If optical performance at F8 and beyond is the only thing you really care about, then sure. However, lenses are designed to be used in multitude of situations, there are people who do appreciate the character of Leica lenses. If you have used the 35 v4 KOB like you stated, you would have been able to observe the paint brush like quality in your photo shot with this lens at 5.6 and beyond. This is not replicable with any other off brand lenses. And the optical performance for 50 1.4 asph wide open is also one of the best performing lens on the market in M mount. If cost is a huge factor in the review, then yes I can see why Fuji would be so appealing to people with limited budgets. But to say that Fuji is anywhere close to what Leica is offering, that’s a stretch and no where near the unbiased, objective truth.

[@xPROxSTYLEx]

All of your Fuji film have a strong green tent to them ……..

[@Goughie]

Agreed! And the film doesn’t

[@pjbiggleswerth8903]

I'm on a waiting list for an x100v (two of them actually, different locations, b&h and mikes camera. Will I cancel the one that notifies me second? Maybe.) Ppl are so salty. Lol. Like who tf are you again? Why are you so mad I'm buying a camera? I got a hat you might kot like either? Lmfao.

[@Goughie]

Who’s salty? 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@alex.muntean]

The Fuji sim seems like such a green muddy mess compared to the original. 😢

[@edobette]

Film is better.

[@mrottomaddox]

Fuji X Weekly. Not Fuji Weekly. There are also no "guys" there. The site is run by one person.

[@Goughie]

Cheers for the help

[@Mike3313]

“Guys” is defiantly applicable when talking about FXW because he doesn’t make all the recipes offered there. Several are made by others...

[@ervanwirawan811]

Niceee man!! I always wondering about this one. If you could the kodakgold200 and agfavista that would be answer my curiosity!

[@Goughie]

I haven't tried the kodak gold recipe! but love the film stock