Kodak Tmax 400

[@asadavis9532]

Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to do this series and do it well

[@mikeboudreaux2964]

Good stuff. This is so much better than the blanket "tRi-X iS ConTrAsTy" stuff that most channels are putting out. Thanks for the great videos.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

It’s only as contrasty as you are willing to develop it.

[@joeltunnah]

Great comparison Gregory, thank you. I’ve started developing tmax and delta in Ilfosol-3 at 1+9, with pretty light agitation in my Paterson tank... and it’s completely changed my opinion of these films. Beautiful almost vintage looking tonality, far better than hp5 for example.

[@richardsimms251]

Great presentation. Lots of good things to learn too. The examples of photographs are very well done. Thank you. RS. Canada

[@RexBer]

great series this, personally waiting for that Fomapan 100, proud Czech heritage of over 100 years, enables me to shoot a lot of film even if I don't have that much money, but I'm curious how it stacks up in your test

[@izaguirreeder]

This series you are doing is incredibly useful. You understandably have used the same developer throughout. I for one would be very interested in a variation of this experiment where you fix the film and you show the differences across varios developers.

[@baxtermarrison5361]

TMAX 400 is possibly my favourite black and white stock for portrait work. I like the cleaner whites and overall contrast. Very little post work to get the overall look I like. I shoot pretty much all on 120, so the grain is less noticeable. That said, I have a wide variety of film stock in the fridge! This series is really helpful when it comes to understanding why I like the emulations I like, and to point me in the direction of those I have yet to shoot. Specifically, in this example the highlights on the Tri-X appear to have a hint of yellow to them, not as clean as the TMAX. Like you say, possibly more to do with the development rather than the film's response.

[@poniatowski3547]

Love TMax 400 in my Bronica ETRS. I really like the results. Interesting about the light wratten filter tendency, never thought about it like that but makes sense as I really like a light yellow filter on my 35mm cameras when shooting B&W. Great video and awesome channel thanks for all the hard work you do. Hope 2021 is a success for you.

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Thank you!

[@ggaffrey8573]

Best film guide I have seen!!

[@nickRS100]

You are lining up the curves to Tmax very nicely. I’m particularly interested on how you manage with less well behaved films. I’ve done about 85 curves (on excel I’m afraid) on a variety of film and developer combinations in the last 3 months. A few surprises were: a very odd curve with Bergger Pancros 400. Very pronounced S curves with Rollei Retro 400s. Remarkably similar curve with Rollei Ortho 25 and Ilford Orthoplus 80 particular regarding speed....I’d rate the Rollei at 80. Fomapan 400 shows a remarkably similar “iso” to Fomapan 100 - about 50 for both! Keep up the good curve work.

[@shuailuo8637]

Great ! It may be an interesting thing to test the Adox cms 20 ii, they annonce it as the most fine grain 135mm on earth

[@mfbfreak]

I know your comment is old, but i just developed a roll as conventional film in Rodinal. At 3200dpi scanned, the grain is just barely visible. Dev'd as normal film, the contrast is obviously through the roof because it's document duplication film. It is indeed as fine grain and sharp as they claim, but if you want to use it for conventional photography and not for document copying, you gotta use the special low contrast developer.

[@cameraprepper7938]

I used the Kodak TMAX400 120 film for many years, I shot it at 200 ASA/ISO and developed it in a thin solution for a long time with very few and very gently agitations, in that way the film had more grey tones and had still very good contrast, in modern words, larger dynamic range. I guess you can do the same with a Ilford Delta 400 film. Of paper I used Ilford Multigrade. Made great images from my 6x6 Hasselblad !

[@studiosnch]

With what EI, developer, dilution, and temperature to you develop your T-MAX400 usually?

[@JeffWernerIthacaNY]

I wonder if a yellow light sensitizer was added to give folks better results in warm indoor lighting situations.

[@adrianplambert]

These film comparisons are great. Would really like to see someone do a dev comparison too with a well understood film.

[@richardsimms251]

Great video

[@patrickjclarke]

Oh my, how did I not ever see this series? This is AMAZING content! I have found that I like Tri-X in 120 more than 35mm where I tend to like Tmax better, or my old stand-by, Kodak BW400CN. Are you going to do one with Ilford XP2? I know it and the old BW400CN are C-41, but for 35mm at least, I really do like them for their flexibility in ISO on the same roll.

[@bwc1976]

Very surprising results compared to what I expected, I guess it really does depend on proper developing. And the built-in yellow filter effect makes me that much more interested in trying it again. Do you know if TMAX 100 has that same effect?

[@Ryan-lc4bl]

Thanks for the comparison ! Could you do Tmax 100 or Delta 100 next ?

[@robertosinglemalt]

Hi, Gregory! Please, could you make a comparison with the TMax 400 pushed? Thanks!

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Maybe one day

[@Tipodatubo]

I love tmax films and the supersharp prints I get out of them, this year they got really pricey though (in italy at least)

[@bwc1976]

Even in America Kodak seems way more expensive now, I've mainly been using Fuji for color and Ilford for black and white.

[@JohnJohnson-ri2ou]

T-Max is my favourite B&W film, hands down. But the price uped from 9 dollars to 14 in a span of 6 months in Russia. This is hurts. A lot. Not to mention that I did stop shooting B&W film because the developement is also more expensive. I don't know man. I'm absolutely in love with film but it's costs a fortune to shoot on it(actually the real expenses starts when you start to scan on really good scanners). And the prices will go up, I'm pretty confident in that regard. It's just sad.

[@siddagivers85]

Hi thanks for comparison. COuld you please compare ADOX hi res films to Kodak 3X? (Adox CMS20 and ADOX HR50) thanks

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

The only Adox films I tested were HR-50 and Silvermax. I haven’t posted them yet

[@Traveljournalist]

Great review , thanks ! Did you scan the films as well ? Are they grainy ?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

No scans, just prints

[@danem2215]

I think I'm in the minority in preferring T-Max over Tri-X. The negs just always look better on T-Max, compared to just about anything I've shot.

[@Alexandermeter]

One of my favorite films. Still don’t understand why some people don’t like it. Nothing wrong with some build in yellow filter. But thanks for the upload and comparison. Im also curious how the same would react in a other developer XTOL because it's a modern developer compared to D76 and of course HC110 ;)

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Tmax 400 in Xtol is my favorite combination right now

[@frequentlycynical642]

"What all films want to be." Amen. This is what generates a lot of complaints, because it ain't your father's Oldsmobile. (You have to be at least a certain age to understand that.) AND RMS granularity of 10, same as Plus-X, and sharpness of 200 lines/mm, same as......no other consumer film. I love this film. Too bad it's so flipping expensive. Even a 100' roll at $180 comes out to $10/roll. That same roll cost $89 when I bought my first in 2008. WAY past any inflation index.

[@fadisg]

Great content as always :) while the Tmax is my forever favorite film.. The Trix is just amazing in term of versatility, a film that could handle anything... May I ask what is your favorite black and white film?

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

Tmax 400

[@devispesaresi9069]

Color film???nothin

[@TheNakedPhotographer]

I’m considering a color film version but haven’t decided on all the parameters I want to use