KRIS BLADE DAMASCUS DAGGER!!! Part 11

[@aarondcmedia9585]

I think my favourite part of these is the invisible film maker taking the great shots and leaving the star to do his thing. I appreciate what you're doing, Jamie, good work mate.

[@westonforced-last-name-dis3560]

I've thought similar too, well said!

[@hafsteinnhelga]

the best thing about your videos is that you don't notice that the video is 15 or 20 minuets long, they feel like they are 2 minuets, because they are so fun and interesting to watch, keep up the good work

[@GeometryDashAshtonator0]

Hafsteinn Helgason do they spell minutes differently in other places than america? or did this person just spell it wrong?

[@ratherthansix6198]

They've spelled it wrong, a minuet is ballroom music

[@RenoFencingMan]

So right! It’s over and I feel like a dog reaching the end of its rope.

[@zackstephens6594]

How a blacksmith explains a Virtual Private Network? lol I work as a system administrator and that has to be the best explanation I have ever heard. Thanks Alec

[@markangelquiatchon1219]

@@digitalradiohacker everything is about money, your suppose to support alec because he is earning.. you jealous bru?

[@markangelquiatchon1219]

@@digitalradiohacker hes a consumer too, he is not a tech support for them, have you seen an actor promoting a car? Should that mean he should be a mechanic??

[@boriz_]

So the craftsmanship is obviously amazing but can we take a second to appreciate the camera work that allows us to see all this great stuff? It's just art and good work all over the place here.

[@RenoFencingMan]

Jonathan Wolf good call sir!

[@westonforced-last-name-dis3560]

Indeed. I used to video edit a lot a few years ago and man... I can't imagine how much footage and B-roll needs gone through... But the quality of each finished video is phenomenal and just keeps getting better!

[@drewtoli2353]

Hey Alec don't forget to take 15 minutes to clean the shop!

[@NeonCreeed]

Amazing how we had the same thought haha

[@6mmairsofting620]

Yea how strange that we had the same thoughts

[@lukearts2954]

8:35 Alec, you need to clean that area more often or you're going to end up finding an all-black workshop one morning (best case scenario) or find yourself flying without wings, and possible without certain body extensions (worst case scenario). Large packs of dust (and especially wood dust) can start smoldering with just a single spark. It might take hours before any smoke leaves that closed area, but temperatures will be so high that anything toughing the machine will also catch fire. If you're lucky only that machine will burn, but the smoke of incomplete burning reactions is black and thick as gravy. You might as well have held a campfire with car tires in the shop... Seriously, smoldering fires are no joke and a major cause for workshop fires. Get that central dust collection installation asap, and get a good one! (let me know if you need advice for these, because I used to design them for shops like yours)

[@lukearts2954]

sorry for the typo... and thanks for the love :) and I forgot to add that I wasn't only an industrial vacuum cleaning designer, but also a fire fighter, which has come in handy when facing firehazards in woodworking airfiltering.

[@batgwill]

alec's shop has an unusually high spark density

[@lukearts2954]

hence my warning :)))

[@lukearts2954]

One more addition. Since I know you like doing things thouroughly, if you consider such a centralized system, the following 5 pages are a must-read: www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis32.pdf

[@TheKeeg01]

good eye, i didnt even see that O_o

[@brightonlund]

Alec Steele, he had a shop. E-I-E-I-O. And in that shop he had a knife. E-I-E-I-O. With a gap gap here and a gap gap there. Here a gap, there a gap. Everywhere a gap gap.

[@chdmorrison]

Brighton Lund now this will be stuck in my head thx for that

[@leviwaite1136]

I thought you were saying “gab” lol

[@larrybair8074]

I don’t have that much patience. I’d just mix some wood dust with some glue and work it into the spaces.

[@AlecSteele]

I can't wait to, at last, start to work on the final handle tomorrow! Trying to do clean work is crazy difficult and requires some unreal discipline. I've got a very very long way to go on this journey and it really is an honor to share it with you guys! Thanks for watching and I hope you go grab some internet protection from NordVPN! Really great service, very pleased to have them as a sponsor! Code ‘FORGE’ at www.NordVPN.com/FORGE!

[@paulg9019]

51 mins ago yet video only just gone lol

[@alexwray8132]

Alec Steele can you try make a csgo knife it would be really cool

[@justlooking3572]

instead of the clamps to hold it tight, make a jig.

[@dh-c1717]

I have no skills or experience related to this, but what about warming the steel toI induce a slight widening and then scribing to that. Then form the wood to that and fit after warming/widening the steel slightly more and when it cools back to ambient temperature it will close and grip the wood?

[@jessedelnea1100]

In a future episode you should attempt at making a really decadent middle eastern sabre, I think that would be cool.

[@Goryus]

The wood is naturally springy, so it will bow out when you remove the clamps regardless of how many you put there initially.

[@gabsinventions9135]

so happy to see you mentioning more and more brazilian blacksmiths. so proud that even with all the problems we have to get a grip in good tools and ther are still people doing amazing stuff around

[@Tussk01]

I am learning so much from these videos and have been so inspired by them I've gone out on my own spending what money I can from my paychecks on cheap tools to learn from my own experiences and have been making over and over again, knives and handles, and it's amazing what I've learned and accomplished thus far and look forward to continuing such things as often as I can, it's such an addicting craft!

[@chrisrussell6538]

You could machine out a piece of solid steel stock that you can slip the handle in to that would keep the handle square while in the press. Make a U channel that has an ID of the 30 or so mm. the clamps will flex because on the end you can't tighten them as much as you need without distorting the handle so as you press in the wood it will still allow the handle to flex out. using something like a U channel machined to fit will not.

[@johnvaluk1401]

Chris Russll good thing I read this. This is exactly what I was going to post. A lot stronger than clamp

[@bendavis4675]

I was about to recommend the same thing. I would be concerned that the force of the clamps would bend the metal in slightly. You wouldn't have that problem with a machined piece of steel.

[@checoleman8877]

Man that's a good idea.

[@BobOgden1]

Came here to suggest exactly this. Well done

[@maesonelleman890]

May be a pain in the butt, but using the pin holes he’s already put in the handle would allow that machined piece to stay 100% where it’s supposed to without sliding around. As in, Machine the U channel and put a couple holes in the sides so he can drive some temporary steel pins in that would hold it in place with the handle.

[@thomasarussellsr]

So glad to see the maturity to acknowledge that the fault was in the craftsman and not the files. That is one reason I will continue to watch this channel. That serves as a valuable lesson in self-responsibility for the younger viewers (and many older ones alike). Loved seeing the handle shave the Blackwood. It was a beautiful thing. Wood is notoriously bad at accepting such tight tolerances. Just a few points change in humidity can take that fit and "show" all kind of light one day, and not fit the next. This is going to be a spectacular Chriss style [long] dagger (or short sword). Keep it up, you'll get there.

[@allanheckford9225]

The making of the blade was, as usual, fantastic. Watching you give in to your deepest darkest O.C.D compulsions over the handle was less than fantastic.

[@NitroGTRi]

Don't clamp twice... press twice... each time the handle itself will act as a chisel, slicing more and more Black wood exess... :-)

[@NitroGTRi]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWLVdqxpa7KEbJI

[@ნეუიმენილან]

Gangnam style. That moment when you remember Alec was born in the 90's and not the 60's

[@andybelcher1767]

Hi Alec, great videos that just keep getting better and more instructive. A word on your filing. You file in an awkward position and sometimes sitting down. This is where you are going wrong. The file needs to be kept dead level and that results from positioning your elbows in a constant plane. When sitting you are restricting the arc of your movement with the file so the end will lift or drop which gives you the round surface. File standing with the workpiece higher up, ideally at elbow height or just below. This will allow your upper body to control both ends of the file better and use your whole body to guide your arms, you should get a slight rocking motion of your upper body which magnifies into your cutting strokes. As with anything else it takes practice. As you practice before carrying out other jobs, like this handle, try filing a block of mild steel and check it against a straight edge. Then file an adjacent side and check your progress with a square. Filing is an art that nobody seems to regard anymore but set up time is minimal, tooling is dirt cheap (a good file should last many years), so why machine for small jobs? It is worth learning to do properly and well, and your instruction videos can impart another skill to the people of tomorrow. Keep up the good work - I have got my "It's Not Stupid If It Works" sweatshirt - cracking!

[@caseysutherland2002]

I'm a IT professional as well as a blacksmith/bladesmith. Your explanation of what a VPN is WAS fantastic. A man after my own heart. Keep it up Alec!

[@josefw9253]

I'm sorry, but doing something right the first time every time would have to mean that you're perfect, which is foolish. Don't get bent out of shape just because stuff doesn't work. Learning is a process that never stops. Love the video, though, Alec!

[@etstrickland]

Also remember that the chase for a perfect fit/perfection has diminishing return.

[@justinstuder7703]

I believe what he may mean by this, or at least what I think it should mean, is to not cut corners and always do work to the best of your ability. It is better to measure twice and cut once is also a way of thinking about it, especially when working as a fabricator.

[@josefw9253]

Yes, very true, I wasn't meaning to try to tell him he's wrong in anyway to want to make a great product, but more to make sure he's not too hard on himself. He's still very young (same age as me), and for his age he's extremely talented. It's always good to strive to be better, but don't let perfection be the enemy of good. Have a nice day :)

[@TheVidSquids]

Hey Alec! Im in school for Welding and Machining in the States and because of your videos and the great work and production you do, you have inspired to me take up blacksmithing! I am literally taking my first class this Saturday! Keep up the awesomeness! Peace and love from NC

[@Finn-McCool]

Alec, bear in mind that once you finally get a "serviceable" fit-up in the keyhole you can still improve. Simply dip the wood into boiling water for a moment (or three) and then insert it into the keyhole. The nature of wood is such that it will sWELlll. Have your pinholes ready for final assembly (counter bored etc etc) you can clamp the keyhole to proper width, insert pins and heat them and pein them over. Then the wood will in fact GROW to meet any small imperfections in the fit. Always enjoy seeing you work with wood on the channel. Come to think of it, you might get even better results by having the wood already set into the keyhole with pins inserted and NOT peined. Then boil the whole handle up to the guard, heat the pins and pein away. You will probably HEAR the wood growing into place and filling any voids. Careful though, you don't want to bend the handle while it is steaming hot!

[@CorndogBrownie]

Machine a slot into a heavy piece of steel and use it to keep the sides from flexing outwards. That way you can have it a thick as the Tang and makes itself a stop Fri the press

[@trevorstott7811]

Oooh, that is a good idea...

[@ozgundemirr]

Hey Alec, next time you may try to lightly spray paint the handle and tap it lightly to the keyhole, after taking it out, you'll see the worn painted areas, which needs to be filed or scrabed a bit more to get a better fit. I'm a violinmaker, and we are using methods like this to match two pieces together perfectly.

[@bluehatbrit]

Not a traditional craftsman, but I'm a software craftsman (programmer) if you like. Just chipping in to say Nord are good, especially if you don't want to faff around. You can't prove they aren't logging your data, but they've been solid for a long time thus far. Loving the videos Alec! I've never blacksmithed and probably will never quite get the chance but I've loved watching someone do a different craft over the past few months. Wonderful content! Makes me want to start something similar for coding.

[@edwardhaas321]

Alec, Love your videos. Love your dedication to your craft even more. I work an 8 hour day, come home, grab a cup of coffee sit down and the first thing I do is put in my ear buds and click on your days video. I look forward to them every day. Keep up the Great work Alec.

[@silverbreak418]

If u have some gaps on it u should soak the wood with linseed oil and it will expand so the gaps will disappear. I think should work

[@lukearts2954]

if it's not too late yet, and if you still have problems with pressfitting without gaps, it might help to make the sides not slick, but slightly ridged with triangular grooves... (so that the cross section of the side of the block no longer looks like ________ but like vvvvvvvv instead.) this will reduce the sideways pressure during the fitting, while it allows for the wood to be a little bit more elastic, so that the fit is tighter and following the shapes even closer. When pushing a solid block of wood like you did today, the sides will bulge out the tiniest bit, which will make the metal edge take away more material than necessary on places where it bulges. After releasing the pressure, the bulge goes away and the gaps are revealed. that is why you need the fitting surface to be elastic to compensate for the bulging.

[@sampsani]

If you get a slight gap in the fitment, you can drop a hint of water in the gap to make the wood expand, just make sure that you dont let it dry before you apply the finish on the handle.

[@varengrey7221]

Alec, if you want to make the wood soft so you can get it to almost any shape, look up videos of people using ammonia vapor to bend wood. It's really easy and you can take peices of wood like oak and soften them to the point of spong-like malleablity. The wood gets rigid again after the ammonia evaporates.

[@timpinxteren]

Nice going there! And perhaps you could soak the entire fitted handle wood and all in some boiled linseed oil when it's all fitted. That way the wood will absorb the oil and expand slightly, so that any minute little gap will be gone as well

[@TheIdeanator]

Old woodshop trick for gaps is to mix some of the sawdust with epoxy or woodglue and smear it in there. Its wood, and wood is not as precise as you're trying to make it.

[@Hellsong89]

Yeah i was laughing my ass off when i saw him going at it with razor blade XD I'm perfectionist but this is ridiculous even for me. Could also just pour some CA glue into gap and sand the peace a little so gaps get filled. Also could have used that blackwood peace to cut second keyhole and make rest out of the oak. Much easier to fit like that and cool look.

[@Justin-C]

FYI: Netflix blocks a lot of commercial VPNs from accessing their services. Don't expect a commercial VPN to be a reliable way of circumventing Netflix's region blocking. Good basic explanation otherwise!

[@CellanKnight]

It is so amazing that Alec is taking inspiration from a brazilian bradesmith

[@thespasticmindofastonedguy3266]

Mill 'two piece' threaded pins with heads. Counter sink the pinholes on the metal blade handle. Use those two piece threaded pins to squeeze the metal against the wood.

[@fee_lo8346]

I’ve seen wood workers use steam to soften wood to create pressure fittings. In extreme cases like the wooden cube in a coke bottle you can shrink the wood by 3 or 4 times it’s final size then allow it to grow to its final size.

[@garethbarry3825]

Alec, African blackwood is often used for fretboards on guitars. As a luthiery, I can tell you thee there are almost always little gaps, gouges etc when doing a refret. The solution is to take some sawdust mixed with superglue. After sanding, you really cannot tell that it isn't straight wood

[@R4N6ER]

Alec, maybe you should build a fixture to insert the pommel into that will hold its geometry? Basically, a box that's strong enough to support the press through of the wood. Hone the edge of the pommel so it can cut the wood really cleanly like the bur on the scraper. Lubricate the surfaces before they're pressed maybe with wax, maybe? Support the work from above and below with the fixture. Maybe these ideas could help get better results! Thanks for the awesome videjos! Keep up the awesome work!

[@rickcoy56]

Yeah, I don't think a jig would take that long to make. I'd imagine it would hold the pommel in place better than a clamp.

[@R4N6ER]

Rick Coy looked to me like the clamp didn't have even pressure across the surface of each side of the pommel and it still allowed for 1mm of movement.

[@nieronfire7203]

Big block of steel and mill 31.9 (handle without the wood in it) so it has much more support. Then grind the width of your handle on the surface grinder to make the edge as sharp as you can.

[@3rdIsBest]

Interesting about the shape of the keyhole and the negative draft from the concavity... reminds me of composite molds. Might want to try playing around with an expansion fit if you do this again (take advantage of thermal coefficient of steel vs wood) to shrink a keyhole down around a rough handle. New to the channel, love these longer exploratory projects, keep it up!

[@r1g35]

Hey maybe add a arbor press to your shop for pressing pins in your small projects so you don't have to use your bench vice.

[@salimufari]

Since the steel is convex you could also sand in a concave to match in the wood so it would sort of "snap' into place. I'm also still curious why not do the keyhole cut with the mill to ensure straight surfaces.

[@littlemobile954]

It was very smart to double up and try twice on one piece and again its so much nicer to listen to you talk about a sponsor than see an add

[@rickcoy56]

Hey Alec, just curious as to why you haven't mentioned anything about getting a dust collection system. It would certainly knock down quite a bit of dust/debris in your grinding room. That and a wet/dry shop vac for your lathe and mill would help keep the shop much cleaner!

[@snowblood82]

Stroke of brilliance to use the keyhole as a die. Take it from someone who attempted your journey with electric guitars (except I didn't have half your talent or tools): flat and straight are big challenges. The majority of us are depending on cheap material templates and copying router bits and then it still takes a lot of sanding, planing and elbow grease to get it right.

[@kazumamishima1091]

Awesome work Alec. Keep up the awesome work. I’ve only just started blacksmithing and it was bc of u I started working steel and today I’m marking my first damaskis bilot

[@willthedingo]

Hey Alec! That "scrap" piece of african black would could be turned into a pretty nice looking handle for something if you put the square end in the lathe and round off the shaped end. A quick project that could be a useful reminder of the educational struggles to finish this piece.

[@J19937]

Dunno if it's a bit of advice that's ever been offered to you, a 50/50 mix of kerosene and way oil is really handy for whenever you are doing wet sanding on metal. Lubes real good and keeps the grit from gunking up too bad; I've gotten some really, really nice finishes using it when I'm polishing/sanding.

[@devinkernak]

I love how your videos are an adventure, you go off topic and show your mistakes, it's all very wonderful.

[@CalebAFonte]

On the next series can you try and do a Damascus steel balisong, but not with the usual sandwich design? Maybe something like the benchmade 42?

[@Kolossuz_]

Good choice of music for this episode Jamie! I really like the swing (or maybe this is jazz, I dunno) style of music, and it seems to go along with Alec's constant happy attitude.

[@alecmcmahon]

Alec, take some fine African blackwood sawdust from the band saw or sander, mix it with some wood glue to form a wood paste and use it to fill in the small gaps on the final product. It will hide the little tiny gaps.

[@bmcustoms1646]

This young man teaches two important life lessons in every video... 1. failing is learning 2. quitting is not an option.

[@tristangorvin449]

So good Alec been watching for so long now think your one of the best upcoming blacksmiths

[@danieljames1392]

And Jamie kudos to the camera work keeps the Meticulous and tedious work seeming so much more fun

[@Sora08091]

And it is fantastic to be here again, Alec.

[@BernieFromTheInternet]

Just do a burn on for the handle.

[@spiritusinfinitus]

VPN security explained with anvils, hammers and spanners - brilliant! :D

[@ph3n1x77]

Alec you should put the black wood into the handle and then put it in water for about an hour.The wood will expand and when it dries it will dry to fit the keyhole perfectly

[@LiamJPenn]

You should forge something and incorporate some casted elements. Like a guard or pommel.

[@CactusMuffin]

I love how you pick so many types of music

[@LukeHealy]

Notification Squad… Mount up!!! ……Wing Chung Butterfly Swords… please… ;-)

[@setha6096]

YES!!!

[@LukeHealy]

I am mildly embarrassed that I-a fully grown man-am ridiculously happy that my comment was seen and '❤'ed by Mr @Alec Steele!! Red letter day indeed!!

[@RenoFencingMan]

I’m glad I’m not the only one. Haha

[@2184-n1p]

Luke Healy your a lucky man

[@donnaspear8494]

I love your work. I don't care how long it takes you to finish; the journey is worth it. You really are an inspiration. You make me want to be better everyday. Thanks.

[@ashleywilson5312]

Maybe tack a piece of sacrificial steel on one side for the pressing and then grind it off when it’s pressed in. Or maybe machine a steel bar that fits around the outside of the handle , keeping it from spreading during pressing

[@chrisosh9574]

Instead of clamping try milling a slot in a block of metal to an interference fit on the outside of the handle,that way there should be no flex or expansion of the keyhole.

[@7over21]

Hey Alec, instead of using a clamp (or two, or six), why not weld up a jig into which you can slide the handle? When you're building the jig, make sure to use lots of steel on either side of the handle do that the handle won't have any room to deflect.

[@lukasbleifu6476]

The tungsten electrode you used as a scribe looks like it has a red marking. If it is a red one then it contains thorium, so you would create radioactive dust when grinding. Stay safe!

[@listerjones]

Glad my link to rodrigo sfreddo last episode helped....possibly, if it was my link of course ha ha keep going lad. I did one following him and was nervous as hell as the pressure built in the press....worked like a charm.

[@fredster8923]

Your so amazing for sticking with this i believe in you.

[@Teko-XVI]

Really like the music change in the last couple episodes!

[@MrSmith-hy5nn]

You could just square the inside edges off the metal, and put it in the machine vise to keep the shape and the push the wood through with the press. Best regards from the danish blacksmith.

[@tannerdean434]

im glad to see your claymore hanging up in your shop. display your art, be proud!

[@andrewparnell1265]

i know nothing about bladesmithing but wouldnt the pins squeeze the bevels back in place when tightened? love the vids alec keep up the good work

[@EmonticonGaming]

I've absolutely fallen in love with your videos man. Thank you for keeping it up!

[@stradglider]

What you could try is to make the keyhole half mil or so bigger on one side. Start pushing the wood from the bigger side, so that the deeper it goes the more compressed it is...It might be the best chance to get a perfect fit.

[@brendandavey5372]

very cool, nice to see you work through and correct your mistakes this is the method of all craftsmen undertake to create perfection keep up the good work

[@Meattanka]

Looking at this and then looking at what I am making really gives me something to strive for. Quick question do you have suggestions about anvil maintenance?

[@AlecSteele]

Yes! Use it! If it's not flat grind it flat!

[@wiwigt3617]

Awesome video as always, when I see some people struggling with some creative task I often think to your video. Just get into it and you will find a way to create what you want. Really inspiring, thx

[@TheWheels1965]

Alex! its just a handle. Its going to move when you swing the sword around and the wood will shrink over time! Its good!

[@bradyvinson264]

You should make a housing to fit up around the outside of the integral. That would keep the dimensions true and even pressure instead of a clamp

[@rowlandstraylight]

Steam the wood to make it conform to shape you need to fit. Then use a polymerising oil (boiled linseed, teak oil, tru oil, Crimson Oil) which cause the wood to expand to fit tight.

[@wateronthefloor]

Soak it in boiled linseed oil to expand the cells in the wood - just like Cody from wranglerstar does with his axe handles. That should tighten up the pressure fit/gaps. Just soak and repeat a few times

[@bobhaehn5470]

Surface grind the grip area to give it a sharp edge. It should give you a much better cut with less tendency to spring open. I'm and old toolmaker offering experienced advice

[@TheSmallTownCraftsman]

a little wood working trick is to wet the timber and then evaporate the water from the timber once it has swelled to the right fit

[@TheKposs]

Holy cow, loved the press technique on the handle, no way would I have been brave enough to put keyhole/tang in the press after the time you have in to this point...very brave!

[@kensmith8832]

Funny, the first thing you learn in Machine Shop training is how to file flat and square. In all my years as a Machinist, filing was the one thing I did daily!

[@uncle_thulhu]

i know it's WAY too late now, but if I may make a suggestion: 1. Make sure the wood is at least 10mm thicker than the steel. 2. cut and shape the wood so it almost, but not quite fits. 3. Champher the edges on one side of the wood, so that one surface is just slightly bigger than the hole, and the other is very slightly smaller. 4. Not sure which method would work best for the wood you are using, but either soak it in cold water for at least 24 hours, or boil it in water for 30 mins. This will soften the wood. 5. Press fit the wood, champhered side first, with your vice. 6. Let it dry for around a week. Not only will it make it fit, it won't bow the steel out in the process.

[@daki222000]

My experience is that you get a benefit by ever so slightly hollow grinding the inside of the keyhole i.o. flat. just a a thou or two is enough, but makes all the difference. (you could use a dremel-kind tool for this). this is a much used technique in these kinds of fit-ups. if you use the metal handle itself to cut the wood, make shure your edge is very crisp and sharp. cheers.

[@rickcoy56]

Moar sand casting! I'd love to see you have something 3D printed and then cast it like lost foam casting. Check out Lost Foam PLA stuff!

[@kevincorkery6292]

For any slight gap, mix some epoxy and Blackwood sawdust together, back out the interference fit some, lather with the mixture at the gap and slide back into place. Once sanded no one will see such a slight filler.

[@reggiep75]

Alec, I don't know why you didn't try a forced fit from the off? Wood is obviously a compressible material and providing the piece is well clamped or held with machined dies, it's just like working with bearings that will fit with a reasonable amount of force and heat, with little give. A machined die to fit one side of the keyhole/handle would've restricted the outward movement and careful referencing with calipers would've allowed you to monitor the fit, tine movement or adjust more for a final forced fit.

[@connorlesneski5380]

Ive got an idea! Cut the wood slightly proud all around, drop it in boiling water/steam, then compress it into the keyhole, clamp it without bending the metal, let it cool down and the wood fibers should conform to the keyhole exactly.

[@andrewwitcher7432]

Scroll saw might be something to think about. It can make fine clean cuts in wood

[@Ukthis1]

With the keyhole, did you consider trying to freeze the wood to cause it to shrink then warm it in the dagger with hot water to soften and to have it swell into shape? Otherwise would heating the keyhole and burning the wood into shape work?

[@F_I_N_E916]

I love your random singing and dancing 😂

[@dakotamax2]

Another idea, look into "Daisy Pin Router" for transferring your key profile from a pattern to the handle blank.

[@SWATStrachan]

I don't know if this suggestion will be in time, or if you've already completed the handle and we're just waiting for the video to be uploaded, but how about if you machine up a steel brace for the tines of the handle? Sort of a |||_||| shape with the gap being the exact width of the handle, that way when you press the wood down the tines simply won't be able to spread anywhere. I've only spent a few days working on a forge many years ago, so I'm probably talking out of my backside here, but it sounds plausible to me :). EDIT: Aw crap, Chris Russll beat me to it...

[@nathanlp20]

If the final handle has a small gap why not let it soak in aniseed oil to swell the wood?? Just a thought 😂

[@handbannana3610]

I think woodworkers sometimes use steam to take dents out of wood. I wonder if there's a way to get the wood really close and then swell it into place?

[@chickenmaniac7442]

4:41 Alec you gave us a job to keep you in check. Do things first the right time then you won't struggle later fixing that mistake. Put your space suit away in the right spot the first time then next time you wont have to go looking for it or cleaning it up later.