KTM Clutch Dampers- How to

Modern KTM clutch dampers are often worn out by the time the bike reaches 30 hours. Changing them is simple. The Rekluse dampers are roughly twice the price, but they come with the tab washer (very handy) and they last much longer.

[@Eric_4D]

This channel is one of the best kept secrets on the internet ..no nonsense, just straight to the point and very informative.. his previous tyre change video was an absolute game changer for me.. P.S. I have no affiliation with this channel, I simply feel if something is worthwhile than it should be shared with others..

[@wildnfree223]

Great video. No bullshit, no extra chatter just pure repair much respect from alberta Canada 🇨🇦 (i dont even own a newer ktm lol i ride a 2010 ktm 300xc-w beginning to hate jettig the carb for all the elevation/temp changes i encounter so I'm looking into the issue these new ktms have)

[@MrJacksmithFTW]

hi, i have actually molten one set of those while riding (hard enduro) and it was a huge mess. I'm a mechanic at a ktm dealer also. I usually recommend that people replace those when needed or preemptively at 100 hours.

[@colesterba964]

Thank you so much!! I had the same issue with drag and the same discoloration, I will replace the plates now that I know it will cause an issue!

[@SnowBikeNation]

Swapped over one of my 2022 GasGas EC300's to the new Rekluse Dampeners this evening at 223 hours. About 110 of it are as a snowbike and the rest as a dirtbike. Pretty wild but my stock dampeners were still super tight with no play in it at all. Stock clutch friction discs have never been replaced and still look good. Plenty of oil changes through this thing but it's pretty wild how long stuff can last when you take care of it meticulously. I was shocked my old dampeners were still good but I replaced them anyway cause I had it apart and why not! Good piece of mind as well. Thanks for the great video and no BS on doing this. I seem to always forgot this crap.

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

Crazy! I’ve never seen the stock dampers last more than about 40 hours before they’re toast!

[@Jursaw]

Awesome video! I put the bolts in the position one because the clutch was too tight and they were in position 2. It fixed it.

[@noahschnackenberg3100]

Why does worn out dampers cause the clutch to drag. I don’t get the correlation.

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

I’m not 100% sure but I think it’s the chattering. It’s really obvious on Rekluse clutches. They get jerky.

[@Jrod_FPV]

It sounds like you already have grasp on the concept but to your point and to share the concept with everyone reading here.... I believe the cause for clutch drag is the warped steel plates. As he shuffles through the plates you can see some discoloration from excessive heat. Excessive heat causes warping, and warping means that the steel plate is taking more than its designated 1.4 mm of allotted space and pushes against the other plates causing drag even with lever pulled all the way in. I have yet to figure out what are the undesirable effects of worn dampers. Potentially excessive sound before a tightwad like me, what's the problem with that? Generally I only care about problems if they could potentially snowball into more costly issues. Only thing I can think of is potentially 1% more likely to break traction versus healthy dampers that can absorb a little more shock. So if anyone knows what problems are caused by worn, please let me know!

[@TheClassicMotorcycleChannel]

Good video Chuck :)

[@budgetendurogroup9635]

I wish you lived in England I’ve got a 19 tpi and it’s burning clutches out after a ride (3-4hrs) clutch cover as hot as the front pipe can’t figure out what is going on, it’s been that hot the basket and belv washer are stained black, do you have any ideas 🙏

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

I have a full video on diagnosing the clutch. Most likely the bypass port.

[@budgetendurogroup9635]

@ thanks for your reply I’ll look for the video now mate, you bike knowledge is second to none love the content buddy

[@paultavish8833]

I need some clutch advice. I just bought a 2016 Husky FC350 and I’m having some clutch issue. When I pull the clutch in and shift to 1st the bike will jump and then stall. I assumed the clutch is not fully disengaging. So… I tried flushing and back bleeding thinking maybe some air may be in system, same problem. I then rebuilt the master cylinder and slave cylinder last night, again back bled. Now my clutch leveler action feels great! I thought, hell, the problem is resolved. I jumped on my bike to take it for a test ride, pulled clutch in and went to shift into first… jumped and stalled. Now… if I let the bike warm up a bit, 5 mins or so this issue lessen. Or if I do I rolling start and ride for a few minutes the problem goes away. Can you please help point me in the right direction?

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

The most likely culprit would be warped steel plates. Are they discoloured at all?

[@paultavish8833]

I have not pulled the clutch cover to inspect yet. TBH, I just bought the bike about a week ago. Previous owner mentioned it may or may not need a clutch. I figured I’d start with the Master and Slave first.

[@ryanp9084]

Thank you!

[@ryanp9084]

My clutch basket rocks a little bit and has slight axial play, (in and out) maybe 1 to 2 mm. 21 Husky 501. Clutch plates and basket appear to be in excellent condition. In your experience, is this normal? Lots of questions like this on the internet with pretty diverse responses...

[@benzeneAndCordite]

Is it possible to convert an older KTM DDS clutch to the rubber damper version? It seems like a good compromise between a cush drive rear wheel and zero damping for bikes that will see a good amount of pavement use.

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

The older bikes have dampers between the big gear on the back of the basket & the basket itself. I don’t know if the parts are compatible.

[@miro_s]

Thanks for this! The screws on the clutch cover are spec’d to be 10Nm, do you think that’s too much and risk stripping? You do them by hand, but can you reckon what sort of Nm would that correspond to? Cheers.

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

The problem isn’t the spec, but achieving it consistently. The torque wrench measures resistance. What we’re trying to measure is the tension between the head of the bolt and the threads. If there is anything affecting friction the torque number will be inaccurate. Things like: paint rubbing off the surface of the cover, grit in the threads, oil on the threads, casting anomalies, damaged threads, the speed you’re turning the wrench, the position you’re holding the wrench and many more. When you’re dealing with a larger torque number the percentage if variance will be smaller relative to the number. It’s very easy to be off by a few nm. On these little bolts that means stripping them or having them come out.

[@miro_s]

@@ChuckfromTrueTech great explanation. But could you us home mechanics a rule of thumb? To strip those screws is one my worst nightmares

[@offroad3607]

Quality vid, keep it simple. 👍

[@seller2001]

thanks for the damper video! I completed this on my 17 xcw, and after putting it all back together ,my clutch lever is rock hard, stuck. I think what I did wrong was to grab the clutch lever while I had the basket off. (I know-its just instinct!) Is this a hydraulic problem or do I need to drain it and play with the throw rod?

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

Are you sure you put all the parts back in? Sounds like you may have left out a part of the throwout or the rod.

[@krproton]

Great video, Chuck! I'm replacing the clutch on my 2017 500 right now. But will you please confirm: does the rounded or square end of the pushrod go inside, or face out, toward the right side of the bike? My clutch was dragging and in addition to the fibers being worn and the metal plates darkened, my pushrod was installed rounded end out, but I think that's backwards. The previous owner must have gotten it wrong. Thanks if you can confirm. :-)

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

I’m not 100% sure on that. Instead of memorizing I look at what makes sense. Usually you can’t install it backwards because one end won’t go into the throwout hat. Sometimes you can see that one end is concave to match the ball in the slave piston.

[@krproton]

@ChuckfromTrueTech All good. I watched several videos and was able to get a glimpse of the pushrod. On all of them the rounded end was on the clutch side and the dimpled end was on the clutch slave cylinder side and surely mates to the ball as you said. Thanks! 😁👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@rdsrf]

Hey Chuck do you clean the clutch hub threads before adding the loctite or will it work fine if the threads/bolts are a little oily?

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

Technically they should be degreased, but Loctite will be effective if the threads aren’t perfect. If they have oil in them I clean them with brake cleaner, but they’re usually dry.

[@andrewsoldan6050]

but why clutch dumpers can cause clutch drag?

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

They allow the clutch to chatter, which causes jerking at low rpm.

[@spotless624]

Hey man .. I have a ktm xcw 300 2021... i have play between my basket and crank gear . Causing chatter.. do you have any insight about that ???? The gear looks normal .. the Crank gear looks normal .

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

There should be a little play there and it’s normal to hear the rattle when the clutch is out.

[@spotless624]

@ChuckfromTrueTech in the rehluse book. It says to check the rubber isolaters by hand . I did. There was no movement.. however I put the inner hub back on to the input shaft and then tried to move it .. yes that's when I found alot of play in those rubber bushings . Like 1/4 inch play . I ordered rekluse bushings . Next week I get to see if most of my rattle goes away ...

[@VisionBreakltd]

Hi, after watching your video I decided to do it myself ;) .. But ... after i put everything together the clutch is gone..I disassembled and reassembled everything from the beginning, but the problem remained. Any guesses as to what could be causing the problem?

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

The pressure plate is most likely hung up on the 6 pins that hold the steel plates in place.

[@Ftchoola]

Hey chuck, i just switched my clutch plates checked the basket groves and dampers, reverse bleeded and inspected the lower clutch cylinder and all look good. the bike still drag what could possibly be the reason ? exc 250 2t tpi

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

I don’t find reverse bleeding to work well, but I assume you’ve got good pressure at the lever? Do you have a 9 or 10 mm master? What oil are you running? Have you checked the clutch spring deflection as it shows in the manual?

[@Ftchoola]

@@ChuckfromTrueTech the lever have good pressure with minimum play, 10mm master, using motorex top speed 15/50 oil and theres no deflection. when the bike is warm in 2nd gear i can barley push him backwards. ty for your quick answer didnt expect that

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

@@Ftchoola Is this happening with the bike running or with the engine off?

[@Ftchoola]

@@ChuckfromTrueTech while running with good warm up.

[@wyattcalton2438]

What are the symptoms?

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

Dragging & lurching at low RPM.

[@FordSierraIS]

​@@ChuckfromTrueTech like Jerky right? Sometimes i get a clutch slip and its not sp grippy anymore. I have new dampers now, should i put the adjustment on notch 3 for good measure? Its 501 2021 that has been clutch hed up to wheelie 1 million times since 21.

[@ChuckfromTrueTech]

@@FordSierraIS The adjustments are for setting the preload on the Belleville spring. You need to make sure the deflection is correct. I believe the manual calls for .004" of deflection.

[@jimrhea5484]

That was pro. Great vid.

[@DBGE001]

I looove wrenching on my bike, so I bought a KTM.