Laguna Table Saw Fusion 2 Review - After one year of use

[@samhoschar5794]

I have the same saw and I love it I did however switch it to 220 volt with the purchase of Laguna's 80 dollar switch and I only went with there's because it came with all the wires attached I just hung the existing one on the side of the saw. The 220 volt made a difference in how it performs. Thank you for the video. Cheers from Alaska

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

Thank you for the advice! I'll look into making the 220v upgrade!

[@gman4999]

Hello there, everything I read online about converting the saw to a 220 is that it's nearly impossible. Can you shed some light on this for me bud? I really want to convert mine but can't find any info.

[@samhoschar5794]

@@gman4999 I got on Laguna's website and ordered their 220 volt switch for the Laguna saw and then installed it there was no issues at all self-explanatory Plus the wiring diagram is inside the saw cover on the motor

[@deanmccall5023]

LMAO @ phase 1 and phase 3. Please don’t discuss anything electrical. You obviously know nothing about it.

[@jonq8714]

Do you still feel this way? I really want to upgrade my 1980's unisaw in favor of this saw, but would absolutely go with the 220v mod.

[@DavidReams-b9t]

I'm confused. The negative is low power and having to go slow with oak. Later, the positive is the power. So, which is it???

[@richardlug6139]

Yes that doesn’t make sense. I think his problem ripping the oak had a lot to do with the blade he used. He said in a different comment that he uses a cheap combination blade well if you are going to rip a piece of hardwood like that oak piece he should put in a good ripping blade.

[@Trytec96]

Does the fence actually stay true when setting up for a measurement? My current table saw when I set my fence to say 8 inches, the place closest to the fence handle will be 8 inches from the blade but the far end will be 1/16th of an inch off or so. So I have to constantly measure the front and back of my blade to the fence and keep taping the fence over and over again to make sure I'm perfectly parallel. I'm wanting to upgrade my saw and love the SawStop but the Laguna F2 seems perfect for my needs, with a lower price tag. I just don't want to have another fence with this issue

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

I have had it for two years and haven't had to readjust the fence. Though I am a seasonal wood worker and don't use my equipment as much as some shop owners. There is a way to make those adjustments under the cast iron table top. Check out stumpy nubs table saw adjustment video he has a lot of good information on this topic.

[@Trytec96]

@TheMcKeelsWoodworks ya it's not that the fence slowly comes out of adjustment over time but the far end with swing in slightly when I clamp the fence down. I forget the term they use for that but I'll check out that other video you mentioned. Thanks!

[@jimfeaster4837]

Half videos show Formica table on right side of saw blade the other half videos show cast iron extensions... ?

[@jimfeaster4837]

Good review !

[@420Heretic]

What kind of blade are you using when ripping the 8/4?

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

I'm using just a cheap blade from Lowe's. It's a multi-purpose blade I believe it's DeWalt

[@aaronm8046]

Great video!

[@TrevorDennis100]

You have given me pause for thought regards the 1.75hp motor bogging down. I have been using a DeWalt jobsite saw for several years now, which has a 2hp motor, and I can't say it has ever struggled, even with some very dense hard and heavy timber. It never occurred to me the the F2 might struggle. Is your saw 110V or 220V? Does that make any difference? I am in NZ and we only have 240v or 415V three phase.

[@dr.mariabernardez4256]

I noticed the Laguna spins at 4,500 rpm’s vs most others 3,450-3,850. Maybe this offsets the .25 hp difference?

[@donkennedy9003]

Good video, remember that engines run on combustion and motors with electricity.

[@johncooke4643]

Hi, nice video, good analysis. Can you give me the minimum dimensions of the saw please? I have a small workshop. The description in Laguna gives it effectively 1.6m x 1.6m...WxD. does that include the extension table behind the blade? ( how big is just the cast iron top?) Does the fence extension need to be that long? Thanks 😊

[@josephnieroda5347]

As an old carpenter/cabinetmaker i think I can say that you should never stand of to the right of the fence like that. You should stand off to the left of the blade always applying pressure towards the fence!!!

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

Thank you! I am left handed so it makes things a little more challenging in the shop! Thankfully I have not had any serious situations in the shop, and I try not to stand behind the blade. Do you still work in the shop? What types of builds are your favorite?

[@leemontgomery72]

Is the motor sufficient or not? You listed a lack of power as a con, then said the power was a pro. I’m confused.

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

Well, the motor has power, but this saw would not compete with for instance the Saw stop 5HP table saw. But in its class of cast iron table saws this motor is reliable. And according to many other people the saws power will increase if it is converted from 120 to 220v. At the time of this review, I had not made the electrical conversion. But I hear it makes a huge difference. Sorry for the confusion!

[@howieharding344]

Thanks for the info. You may want to correct the misspelling of “table”

[@TrevorDennis100]

I'm watching this because I have the same saw on its way to me, and I have to say I'd already had concerns about the motor. The F2 will replace a DeWalt 7491-XE jobsite saw that has a 2000w motor compared to the F2's 1300W. That's quite a difference, and one I hadn't noticed until the saw was on its way. The DeWalt saw is surprisingly capable, and with a good sharp blade, it can cut full depth semi-hardwood if I don't push too hard. I have a feeling that I am going to be finding myself annoyed about that 1300W motor. BTW I am in New Zealand and our power is 240V

[@TrevorDennis100]

There are lots of reasons I chose to go with this saw. It's 10" blade with 5/8" spindle is the same as my current DeWalt saw, so all of my blades, including a DeWalt dado set, will fit. I have more faith that the fence is going to keep square and be accurate than other saws I've used. That includes two Hafco saws bought from Machinery House here in NZ. The fences on all of those saws are hopeless, and not even close as good as the rack & pinion fence on my DeWalt saw. I can remove and refit the fence on my DeWalt saw and be 100% sure that it will cut within a tenth of a mm.

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

@@TrevorDennis100 let me know how it works out for you! We have been very satisfied with ours so far!

[@TrevorDennis100]

@@TheMcKeelsWoodworks I am mostly loving it so far. It is incredibly smooth, and significantly less noisy than the DeWalt jobsite saw I have been using up till now . In fact it is definitely quieter than the Hafco saws I have used at my local Menz Shed. I miss the rack and pinion fence of the DeWalt saw, but I am used to T-type fences so knew what to expect. I have no idea why they would sell a new saw with a 40 tooth blade. The first time I tried a rip cut with it - even though I expected what was going to happen - I was still shocked by how quickly it gave up and started burning the timber. I had a nearly new 24T combination blade which is sooooo much nicer and more useful. OK, the one thing I am not happy about is extraction. To start with, the extraction was close to zero effectiveness. I am only using the 4 inch port with the smaller port taped off. Even after I also taped off the gaping hole which allows the blade to tilt, it still doesn't seen to work well. I have a bigger, more powerful extractor on my thicknesser/planer, so I'll try that, but right now my shop has become as dusty as the early days before I had proper dust extractors. They could surely have worked out some sort of gromet for the 45° tilt hole at the front! I feel like I am missing another big gap somewhere, because the extraction should be more effective. I might have to resort to the overhead hood thing, but I'll either remove the anti-kickback cams, or round off their teeth a good bit.

[@anwarrior0152]

Good video! Question..what kind of blade do you use, I've read that you need a thin kerf riving knife in order to use thin kerf blades?

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

It makes sense why you would want a thinner riving knife when you use a thinner kerf blade, but all my blades are thicker or as thick as my knife. I have a couple high dollar blades from ridge carbine. The good thing about those is you can have them sharpened for a fee plus shipping but the con is the cost to have them sharpened is usually more than an Irwin blade. So for this holiday season and with the high demand for cutting boards and other things, I have been using Irwin mid grade blades. They are nice and hold up for a few weeks. Once the wood starts to burn or chip, it's time to clean the blade. If that doesn't help, I usually change the blade. Hopefully this helps my Friend. No matter what tools you're working with, always keep safety first.

[@diegowsa]

Have you noticed that the miter gauge cannot be inserted from the front. You have to walk around the back to access it? What is your opinion on this?

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

I haven't noticed this on my saw. I can access it from the front of the saw. Perhaps the plastic tool holder was installed backwards on your saw, can it be flipped?

[@diegowsa]

@@TheMcKeelsWoodworks Do you have the Fusion 2 with the digital readout?

[@kennyc388]

Where was YOUR saw made ? Taiwan ?

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

Yessir! Taiwan. Apparently they have really high quality standards for their exports. I can't complain. Definitely 10 times better than Chinese manufacturing

[@dr.mariabernardez4256]

How do you feel about the short distance between the front of the table and the blade?

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

Good point. Personally,I haven't had any situation where I had wished their was more space. But I will say it's a little difficult to cut wide stock such as full sheet of plywood. But on most saws without an in-feed table, it's usually challenging. When I upgrad my shop in the future. I'll build a larger lable around the saw.

[@jerrysneed250]

No sound on the Video ?

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

Hmm, sound seems to be working on my end. I'll look into this.

[@jerrysneed250]

@@TheMcKeelsWoodworks No it was on my side for some reason I couldn’t get it to work I got it working now thanks anyways

[@marcusoakes9502]

The volume doesn’t work

[@marbleman52]

Those teeth on the riving knife look menacing..!! What if you rounded off the points a little bit; wouldn't it still work ? it seems like the quality control people should have seen that those sharp teeth indented the wood? And I agree with sam....upgrade to 220v. About 20 years ago when I started woodworking as a hobby, I bought a basic contractor 10" table saw and converted it to 220v. The motor on the saw was made to easily switch a couple of wire positions. I can only assume that some people do not have a spot in their electrical panel to hook up a 220v circuit and that is why most table saws come wired for just 110v? Anyway...enjoy that fancy table saw...lol..!!

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

Haha! Thank you for the good knowledge! I could definitely use your experience moving forward. I'll look into the conversion. I believe I have a few extra spots in the box.

[@marbleman52]

@@TheMcKeelsWoodworks I know that you will see and enjoy the definite difference in power and ease of cutting with going 220v. You now have a high quality table saw, so now you want to use a high quality blade to go with it. Believe me, a high quality blade also makes a big difference.

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

What blade would you recommend?

[@samhoschar5794]

@@TheMcKeelsWoodworks ridge carbide is what I run and they are by far a wonderful cutting blade and the carbides are big they say you can get up to 20 sharpenings it depends if you destroy your blade or not keep them clean I clean mine all the time

[@MrTooTechnical]

Great vid. But u cut weird on the tablesaw

[@travis3236]

The 1.75 HP is keeping me away. Grizzly has a saw with similar features but with a 2 HP motor and it’s 400 bucks cheaper.

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

You're right! If it wasn't for the black Friday discount I would have gone with the Grizzly too. But at that time Grizzly was 3-4 month lead time, when Laguna was 4-5 weeks. And I am quite impatient!!! But overall the Laguna has served me well. Let me know how your Grizzly turns out!

[@ugosmith7529]

The grizzly will only get 2hp if plugged on 240v, same as this saw if plugged on 240v.

[@travis3236]

@@ugosmith7529 That makes sense. I should've thought about that.

[@bank80]

@@ugosmith7529 The 220v is an upgrade that you have to pay for with the Laguna...

[@samhoschar5794]

@@bank80 worth every penny the saw runs much better

[@northernhumidor5615]

These saws are geared towards hobbyists, if you want to cut thick hardwoods you need to go to a full on cabinet saw. Also all table saw dust collection pretty much sucks.

[@armus550b]

Please educate yourself on power it is not referred to as phase one is referred to as single phase. And three phase

[@adgieem1]

Good review. But. The background music is annoying. When TRYING to watch this video on my 80 in tv. The music drowns out what you are saying. I have to use phone to hear your remarks. I am not here to hear a concert. The sounds of tools running is music to my ears.

[@CarlosDiaz-yh1yd]

Laguna has the worst customer care in the industry

[@hswing11]

1.75 hp not even 2 hp for a $2000 saw enough said DO YOUR RESEARCH BEFORE YOU PURCHASE LAGUNA bet you don't by it..............

[@TheMcKeelsWoodworks]

Haha good point! Happy building!

[@ourboysthaut9968]

@@TheMcKeelsWoodworks I have an old Steel City with 1.75 HP. Bought it used, was wired for 220. I changed it back to 110. It cuts fine. 1.75 HP can cut 2" white oak on my saw, and I'm sure it will on the Laguna with a better blade. I might update to the fusion 2 since my saw is old (no riving knife and bad dust collection). thanks for the review. And to some of you guys hung up on HP and proper electrical lingo (I think we all knew what he meant), "educate" yourselves on punctuation when you comment.

[@lostarts26]

Guy buys a 1.75 hp saw and complains ot doesn't have enough power.. lol Thats why they make different HP options. Also, its called single phase. It isn't a classification, its just how many phases the circuit has.

[@mathewwoods9117]

You want more power, but you highly compliment the saws power and performance? It sounds like you need to a...learn to use a saw, and or b...stop buying cheap blades.

[@siriosstar4789]

Why would a professional woodworker even buy a 1.75 Hp saw in the first place . Surely you have enough experience on table saws to know this would be a problem .