LAMBRETTA COOLING WARS PART 3

THE STEELWEASEL AT IT AGAIN , a look in to why you engine gets hot and how it moves around from start up to running and once turned off .
Simply the best SCOOTER CHANNEL

[@TheSteelweasel]

MAKE COMMENTS PLS IT HELPS MY CHANNEL

[@exsoulagent]

Always very informative 😊

[@kevinhendon]

Great indepth tutorial Steve, going to order one of those Norxi's. Thanks mate 👍👍

[@neilbrown6789]

Really interesting Steve.

[@terryfaulkes8339]

Like the content great video. Terry😊

[@TheSteelweasel]

cheers Terry

[@wellhookedWA]

Great video and quite thought provoking. There is also direct heat transfer from the exhaust to the casing which is likely increased when using heavier (thicker/larger) mounts as per performance exhausts, but this probably doesn't make a big difference. Heat dissipation on aluminium alloy parts is much faster than iron or steel parts and in most instances the heat flow would be from the barrel to the casing and not the other way round. It gets complicated if not using an iron barrel and this is where I think your findings are really interesting, because all the engine internals are steel. But do they really get very hot? I'm also curious about the oil temp in the casing as that would tell a story. Love your work mate.

[@craigwilliams6734]

Great video/research Stephen! Heat dissipation never really crossed my mind but my Li150 used to “heat seize” when I was 16!! Not so entertaining when you are overtaking a bin lorry!!! 😬😳 TGODs

[@TheSteelweasel]

Thanks for sharing!

[@scootertart]

Interesting video chap, never really considered that all the heat sucked up by the engine case from the topend would travel back to the cylinder once the engine was stationary/ turned off. Much as I love Lammies- they really are uncooled machines. All the best chap.

[@TheSteelweasel]

thanks

[@matproud44]

At least you know the fan is doing it job lol

[@robertthomas1717]

Thanks for the information, thought provoking. Could some fins be welded on the case underneath the crank, or could that bugger up the casing.

[@TheSteelweasel]

its crossed my mind ☺☺

[@richierich1805]

Interesting to actually see figures. Do you think wrapping the exhaust and having a vented splash plate would help?

[@stephendarcy9539]

What about using an air scoop on the side panel with inlets drilled to push air onto the engine?

[@TheSteelweasel]

I like to keep the body original scoop on the panels don’t work as the leg shields obstruct air flow . But there is good flow over the rear of the scooter, that can aid removal of hot air in body work . Some race scooters use this principle

[@modslil]

Great video as allways steve ,is that phone holder or sat nav holder steve ,did ya make it ? As am looking something the same, cheers.

[@TheSteelweasel]

its a piece of carbon fiber with a go pro mount screwed to it on my reservoir

[@reccerat4446]

On my RT225 with a CHT/Trail Tech it usually sits around 53c but in the summer it was creeping over 60c on the motorway. When switching it off, it would climb into the 90's C for a while, which always concerned me a bit. Cheers for this Steve, interesting to see the differences with head/casing.

[@TheSteelweasel]

Interesting!

[@sherbertstrawberries]

Very interesting, is your CHT sensor between the plug and cylinder head ?

[@TheSteelweasel]

no its on top of plug there's no difference between top and bottom of plug if the sensor is held hard down .

[@sherbertstrawberries]

@@TheSteelweasel thank you

[@zenzen9131]

In the old days (60s) we used to run with the side panels off a lot to help with cooling. Have you noticed any difference on your meters doing this ?

[@TheSteelweasel]

Not allowed to run here with no Panels , but I will try it to see if I get nicked lol

[@DougGriffith-u1t]

Great and informative video. I'm curious about the function of the small duct spot welded on cylinder shrouding.

[@TheSteelweasel]

To warm carb in cold climates , STOPS ICEING

[@DougGriffith-u1t]

@@TheSteelweasel Since I'm in a warm climate, that never crossed my mind. It's time to plug that up.

[@clivewilliams5668]

Great video...ive been sad enough to do similar tests as i was concerned with block temps aswell..so can totally relate to these tests...can see how we can cool the block though...any ideas?...what i did find was that exhaust stinger diameter helped...i had an old pm pipe that created more heat in the block than the latest version of the same pipe..great topic

[@TheSteelweasel]

Glad it was helpful!p

[@daddy5kids301]

This has always intrigued me,why my engine casing and rear hub are always in my opinion way too hot.Can there be anything in there causing so much heat,chain for example.My cylinder just like yours is running nice and cool.Very interesting video ,looking forward to any improvements you can find👍👍

[@clivewilliams5668]

Why have you drilled your side case?

[@RichardHookham-w9n]

I find your video's on cooling very informative and I have followed some of your idea's. Have you ever considered ceramic coating the exhaust from the barrel up to the silencer. Figures show it can reduce the heat by 20% sending it up the exhaust which then doesn't go up into the barrel. How about wrapping it with something and carrying out some of your excellent tests.

[@TheSteelweasel]

more thing to come , and i love the ideas and input , many brains are better than one .

[@keithgraveson3172]

Fascinating. Makes you wonder about ways of cooling the casing perhaps?

[@TheSteelweasel]

all you thought are appreciated

[@martinknight8631]

that is surprising ! extend/ rework the underside fins or thermal glue some heat sinks onto the crankcase?......what's the best flywheel for cooling anyway? I've got an old lightweight AF on my 210 quattrini, and I know it underperforms. keep up the good work!!!!

[@TheSteelweasel]

Af is the worst flywheel for cooling , small diameter and small fins stupid design . Best is vape with MMW fan

[@Zacky12345]

Did the cowling modification cutting the right hand side away. Massive improvement. My scientific method of temperature analysis is putting my hand on the sidepanel.

[@nitramsnilloc2361]

Is the temp gauge battery operated? Looking for one for my Casa but don’t have a 12v battery. Did have a similar gauge off Amazon but it’s hard to read and I just want a clear reading at a glance. Thanks

[@TheSteelweasel]

Its DC mate sorry . get a trail tech no battery needed good quality

[@nitramsnilloc2361]

@@TheSteelweasel trails tech batteries can’t be replaced so not an option. I’ll stick with my Amazon cheaply. 😎👍

[@reccerat4446]

@@nitramsnilloc2361 I think they can now.

[@Zacky12345]

Is the drillings on the casing to improve heat loss?

[@TheSteelweasel]

😋😋

[@williamjmansfield8768]

Bit by bit but bottom end definitely hot. You are going to save a lot of machines with your heat reduction efforts.

[@darrinslack1269]

Another thing that might help is covering the exhaust in high performance cermaic coating, this pushs the heat back into the exhaust,it would be interesting to see if there was a way of ducting the casings or adding to the fin area

[@TheSteelweasel]

WELL SAID Darren

[@richparrott4450]

I have a classic 50 race bike... finish a race the clutch is working... hour later the start of the next race it has heat destorted clutch plates.. creeping heat drives me nuts... great post, thanks for confirming my suspicion

[@TheSteelweasel]

THANKS MORE COMMING

[@anthonypickering5371]

The exhaust on the scoot at the end of the video is different to the one at the beginning?

[@TheSteelweasel]

Ahh you noticed but no change to temp , I swapped because of noise level

[@stevebgp200]

I run a gt casing, when I’m on a touring run I always stop before the petrol pump and just run the engine and try and cool it before filling up, then I move the scooter remove the side panel and let it cool. It a game you have to play, I then start it up cool it for 3-4 minutes and then set off. I have thought of running an intake pipe from the front of the scooter to blow cooler air onto the engine casing.

[@TheSteelweasel]

Nice casings even better if they had proper cooling added

[@stevebgp200]

@ well I have put into practice your cowl and a inner wall sealed up etc and mine runs at about 78c 30bhp monza 240 long stroke. 4200 miles with out any major drama

[@robertmee478]

I would imagine that the core temp of the crank, con-rod and piston are the highest of the whole engine. The surface temp of those would be kept in check by the fresh fuel (the cylinder cools with both fuel and air). Once the engine is stopped and that lovely, cooling fuel is cut off then the heat from these would dissipate into the cylinder, mag housing and front of the case. I run temp gauges (CHT) on all my Lambretta's and my engine temps usually increase by 25-30°c after stopping the engine.

[@iancarrington1967]

How about some kind of air scoop under the floor directed into the engine bay ? Or maybe working panel louvres of some kind ?

[@TheSteelweasel]

Good thinking bat man . I’ve had it in my head to make a carbon fiber belly pan that reduces drag and pushes air over engine in the right places

[@iancarrington1967]

@@TheSteelweaselif you make one will it be a one off or will you sell them ?

[@ts1dave]

I think for No reason clear in my mind, the 3 fins on the bottom of the casing should have continued under the crank to the flywheel side Thanks for these videos dude , make things for us to be able to do , Cheers for everything

[@TheSteelweasel]

4

[@ts1dave]

@TheSteelweasel ok 4 but would more have been better running under the crank to take the heat out of the lower part of the cylinder 🤔

[@TheSteelweasel]

@@ts1dave yes 100 %

[@TheSteelweasel]

MORE BRAINS ARE BETTER THAN ONE , YOUR IDEAS HELP

[@davidtaylor9492]

Dellorto banner on the wall thought you didn't like them Steve 😂

[@TheSteelweasel]

LOL LOOK CLOSER

[@TheSteelweasel]

MMM out of focus , banner has a comment 😂😂😂😂

[@davidtaylor9492]

@@TheSteelweasel 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂😂

[@pauloconnor7951]

Go water cooling. Seriously. Maybe keep fan for the barrel and just water cool the head. I'm doing it an an RD 350.

[@darrinslack1269]

Ever noticed the shaftdrive engines had ribbing on the casings to allow the heat to distrbute off, have a look at it, I have never understood why no one designing new casings has not bothered looking into this , they all use the same small fin area on the casings ,, Bascally the side casing and main casing need built in finning ,More power equals more heat .

[@matproud44]

Get yourself a flir camera steve

[@terryfaulkes8339]

Here is a challenge. When you turn off engine a small fan cuts in for certain amount time to reduce heat transfers. Get your brain working on that one. 😅

[@TheSteelweasel]

After you stop is not the problem it’s when you run long periods that the engine gets too hot through out , bearings can fail and wear increases, performance is lost .

[@jimmyratsbreath]

The exhaust pipe is heating the casing

[@TheSteelweasel]

Yes that can be insulated

[@terryfaulkes8339]

Temp sensor so fan works like a car does the old way not ECU controlled

[@TheSteelweasel]

I've thought about fans but my battery is too small

[@ademckinlay4946]

Which octane fuel? 98? 🇦🇺

[@TheSteelweasel]

95 pal

[@ademckinlay4946]

@TheSteelweasel higher octane fuel aids cooling? Especially in high compression motors?

[@ademckinlay4946]

@@TheSteelweasel and a cool plug 🙂

[@TheSteelweasel]

@@ademckinlay4946 plug temp will not cool engine , it only keeps plug at correct working temp , to keep it clean and at the correct temp not to be damaged , if plug gets too hot it can cause detonation which is the only time plug will cause temperature changes as a result .....

[@TheSteelweasel]

@@ademckinlay4946 methanol is even better the volume of fuel is so effective at cooling the piston you sometimes need to reduce cooling to promote good engine temp .