Land Rover Adwest steering box overhaul part 1. Stripping the box

[@bsrcat1]

In 2003 I bought a 1995 Range Rover. Brakes didn't work, steering box leaking, no KZbin like there is today. Fix the brakes that was easy. Bought a seal kit online for $70. Took the steering gear output the new seals in and they lasted all of 2days. Took the steering gear out again and inspected it. When I stripped it all down I realized where the leak was coming from. You see those three concentric rings that are white on his worm gear? Those are "high pressure teflon seals". The way they are installed is they are heated and slid down a thin tude and put in their groove. When they cool down they shrink and make the seal. Problem is they don't always shrink to spec and this is the main problem for leaking gear boxes. The second problem is that range Rover does not sell those Teflon seals independently without buying a new worm gear. At the time I was a freight ship inspector. I got lunch across the street from the yards after an inspection and there was an old kodac booth that I've been renovated and turned into a caterpillar hydraulic supplier. When I finished eating I went over and talked to the guy to see if they sold Teflon seals that would be applicable for my application. He told me he would need to know the PSI for the system and I would need to bring in the worm gear and gear box. So next time I went down there I brought my worm gear and box (it was drained and cleaned and sitting in my garage) and let him know what the PSI was for the steering pump (which is considerably lower than the majority of the applications that he sold for). I was a little freaked out when he told me that he would need to cut one of the seals in order to measure it. I didn't see a downside to this since it didn't matter it was just blowing through my low pressure seals so obviously it wasn't working. I gave the nod and he cut one of them off. After measuring it you let me know that he did not have one. I was crushed... I did not want to fork out money shoe Land Rover especially for a part that has been a known problem and leaking on everybody's garage floor for the past 30 years. And he said "hold on a minute". He came back up with two bags and said that I would have to buy them but he thought that they would work. I said how much? He said $0.70 for one and a dollar for the other. I said okay. He explained that they were seal pistons for a hydraulic ram. They consisted of an o-ring and a teflon outer seal that went ontop of it. So he showed me how it went on, he measured the boar and measured the height of this seal sandwich and it was less than a human hair bigger. He explained it whenever it would go into the Borg the o-ring would compress and it would make the seal. So I bought two more and went home. I also got his mailing address for the business and the part numbers just in case it worked. I put the o-ring on the second one, shoehorning the Teflon seal over it (fyi the inside of the Teflon seal was grooved so it matched the o-ring explain.) And well not easy it was not impossible. I bought another $70 seal kit, and as soon as it came in I reassembled everything and put it back on the rover. The s*** worked perfectly 😁👍. Never had a leak after that, ever. Remember this was back in ancient internet times. So I made my first and only post on the Land Rover/ range Rover forums that we used to communicate on. I said the same stories that I just told you and I provided the CATerpillar part number. About four months later I was eating at the same place and saw the guy so I went over to let him know that it was a great success and I put his business information on the range Rover forms along with the part number. 🤣 He started laughing. She said that he sold out six weeks after I was there I could not keep any of those in stock because as soon as they came in he was putting them in envelopes and mailing them all over world. He had forgotten about me buying those couldn't figure out why the part was so popular but it all made sense now 🤣". I do not remember what the part number was but I'm sure it's still on the forums somewhere. Use my handle and drop the number one. Or you can just go through the same process I did with your local hydraulic shop. Disassemble your gear box, take it in and let them measure it and fit it. Get the o-ring and matchingTeflon seal. They are for "hydraulic ram pistons". I hope this information has helped you out and saves you the money and aggravation I fixing a poorly designed OEM high pressure seal problem that has been plaguing Land Rover from the 60s all the way up to I think 2005... I believe that's finally when they changed to a different steering box with seals that actually "sealed". Good luck with your project. I'm now giving you the information and what equipment you need to succeed. 😁👍

[@michaelsheil5590]

Thanks very much Team Britannica, I too have taken the plunge to rebuild a Discovery 1 PAS Box based on your video. Had no problems, the box was sealed from new and all threads and joints were rather rusty. COTS seal kit will be used tomorrow to re-assemble. Will phosphate, fish oil then enamel paint the exterior.

[@MrRobmellor]

I have watched all three video,s on the steering box repair. I think that they are all great to such an extent that I am now going to do one my self. Just to make sure that I follow all your directions, I shall put my lap-top on a shelf over my work bench. I recon that you must be a Yorkshire-man, what with the refined way you speak and the way you are tight at spending money by make do and mend (LOL). Good lad! and thanks.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

That's right - we don't like spending our 'brass' in North Yorkshire! I like to do my videos so that it will encourage others to have a go, with no special tools, however you do need to make that ‘nut’ to get the adjustment nut off the worm, and also some method of working out the preloads on the input shaft at various stages of setup. I was going to have a 2.5 inch disc made, but attaching it to the spline would be difficult, so I made something out of an old steering UJ and a bit of tube I used the instructions from the 200 Tdi book as the 300 Tdi book required a special torque wrench to set up the preloads There is nothing much to fear about the steering box - you just have to make sure the parts have no damage and the shafts where the seals run are good I will be doing another video soon on how to replace the seals themselves, as this box I was using had been rebuild, but leaked at the spline I didn’t have a full seal kit on hand at the time As for the seal kit, I have found the only difference with the cheap seal kit and the more expensive Corteco is the price - both are UK made Just be aware the low pressure input spline has 3 styles of seal and only 2 are in the kit! This box is now on my 130 and running well - feels a little too light, but that maybe because it is winter here and the roads are iced up and offer little resistance

[@MrRobmellor]

I already have the special tool taken care of. I have a back locking nut off a steel water pipe and with a little grinding it should fit just right. If I weld it to an old half inch drive socket, I will feel pretty good with myself. So then I should feel ready to have a go at a leaking box that I took off my defender some years ago that has been getting under my feet from under my bench. Many thanks once again. What do you know about FRONT anti roll bars on Defenders??????

[@BritannicaRestorations]

What do you need to know about the roll bar? I do not fit them as it does reduce articulation of the axle when off road - but if you use your truck on the road a lot, they do control body roll Mike

[@MrRobmellor]

I am finding the roll on my 110 CSW a bit much. especially when I have a load or/and people sat in the back and I am travelling on bendy roads. What I would like to know is, are they of any use when fitted to the FRONT, and indeed is there such a thing, as I have never seem one fitted to a Defender. Or shall I have to up-rate my FRONT shockers. Many thanks, Rob.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Yes the do exist and they are twice as thick as the rear one - you can buy the weld on brackets for the chassis if yours does not have them The axles usually have the mountings for the roll bar, but you will need those swivel joints as fitted to the rear as well I think in your case they may work, but gas shocks should help too I once had a guy with a 110 and a huge roof tent - man that was a scary drive - ended up fitting 4 shocks on the front and 4 on the back! Mike

[@HeidiHennessey]

Hi, love watching your videos. I have a Freelander 1, I know not popular over there. Yesterday driving back from Wales I Sat behind what appeared to have been a lengthened Defender 110 on Dutch plates. It had an extra window over the rear wheel arch with an extra 2 foot of body. Do you know if these were standard or custom? Closest I can find was the Defender XS, even then it didn't have the same layout.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I honestly do not know

[@Makrill151]

Hi, At 3:39 you use a screwdriver to loosen the locking ring. I have an oil leak in this little hole where you push the screwdriver in. Since I thought the leak was coming from the plate, I plugged the entire front with a new plate and silicone. It keeps tight. The question is how it can leak out of this hole when there shouldn't be oil on the back. The leak was minimal, 1 drop a week. Mvh Samir Soudah, Sweden. Defender 130 2008, Series 3 1972

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The hole for the locking ring is well behind the seal - I would be looking for corrosion leading to the hole for the locking ring - silicone is not the answer as it is a high pressure seal

[@zochpeter]

I am interested to know what was inside when you took out the pin. Do you have photos of the guts?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Sorry no - this was done a long time ago

[@zochpeter]

@@BritannicaRestorations why I ask. My rebuider turned the shaft 180 degrees when putting the pin back. Does it matter?

[@rileyv8709]

Another excellent set of videos. I have my box in bits, following your method, so what's the trick in getting that pin out of the worm shaft at the end of this vid. Seems a pity to have reduced my box to its component parts and not do that one! It's bound to be conspiring against me...

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It is damn difficult to remove - we pressed it out and had a fiddle on to get the inner shaft out - there is no info on this repair - you are supposed to get a new unit

[@KarenElkin-y5l]

hi great vid's, have you a link to download the strip and rebuild Manuel you printed out, many thanks.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rover-manuals-part-catalogue/

[@ronangaillard32]

Do you have a link to the workshop manual you have ? The one I have does not have a detailed chapter in the steering box

[@broli85]

is this also the same for a Discovery 2?

[@wheelnut6]

Thanks for the in depth information, I've got the landrover D2 work shop manual but it doesn't have the steering box strip down and rebuild information as you've shown. Have you put a link for the manual please as I've searched the internet and can't find one.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I do not think there is one but it is similar to the Adwest light weight

[@wheelnut6]

@@BritannicaRestorations Thank you for getting back to me, Found a manual

[@mtstuff]

@@wheelnut6 Hi Richard! Can I maybe have this manual? I am looking for it for a long time now, and I also own a D2

[@jimhughsTV]

Is the print off of the manual from a land rover workshop manual? and how do you get it printable format (so you can avoid mucking the book up in the workshop ) ?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

PDF manuals

[@dariuszrad4559]

Uszczelnienie przekładni od kolumny to CORTECO AS 13793 20,64x32x6/7 Simmering

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Znalazłeś łożysko?

[@dariuszrad4559]

@@BritannicaRestorations tak b 2020koyo dwie szt.i b2012 koyo jedna szt. pozdrawiam

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Przepraszam za kolumnę kierownicy

[@khaosantv]

Hello, I am in the middle of converting RHD to LHD 2006 Td5 110, I have good RHD steering box and seized LHD box. Before i start taking them apart just wonder if internal components from RHD will fit into LHD.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Nope - no major parts are usable

[@fysioalb]

My 3 bolt Adwest from a Ninety has worn out threads on the shaft, where it connects to the drop arm. I can´t find a replacement shaft anywhere. Any suggestions? Where to look for one? Can it be re-threaded? Thanks!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

parts are hard to find - might be simpler to convert to a 4 bolt?

[@justinparkman1516]

I sent mine off to a so called refurbishment in the UK and still had play in it so I don't think they have even replaced any worn parts so it's on its way back

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Which is why I made my own test rig kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3S9hphobKahqac I had one that was rebuilt and leaked before I'd even fitted the steering shaft kzbin.info/www/bejne/a2aql6Nrett3kLs

[@vincea1401]

Hi thanks for all your vidéo wish are very usefll I m now mouting a 300 tdi on my RRC 1989 ex 2.5 Vm ans I d like to know how to connect the steering pipes between the pump and and the power steering box Could you describe this point please ? Wich pipe goes where between pump and box ? Rgds Vince

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I assume you have a left hand drive so you will need ANR2136 the threads are made so you cannot put them in the wrong hole (one is larger than the other)

[@vincea1401]

My car is LHD The pièces I received are from RHD so I ll have to arrange something with the LHD and RHD pipes to connect but before I ll have to change the seuls of the box. Thanks for the advice

[@vincea1401]

Hi again, on ris subject, I found that ANR 2136 have been replaced by ANR6656, is there a second ref for the second pipe or it is twice the same ?

[@johnstoneruth8809]

Hello...i have an Awest assisted steering block in my 1991 DAF 400.... leaking bad... have you any idae of where i could get a kit of seals, so as to be able to have the block restored? As i am in france, i would appreciate any ideas that could help... it is a French Daf...as it has a Peugeot motor... is the Land rover block adaptable? Could it work for the Daf? I am at my wits end to find a solution!!!!!

[@slateslavens]

I believe another name for the adjustable spanner is "Swedish nut lathe"....

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Nice!

[@whitacrebespoke]

Universal nut f****r or rounder in our place.

[@albertvella8821]

Thanks a lot for the knowledge and information, I have stripped down the Adwest steering box and found out that one of the needle bearings is broken. Any hints, please...

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Sounds stupid but replace the bearing - I think the number is STC1055 but if you get the old one out then a bearing shop can match it

[@yvesevouna]

Hi, very good video and useful, please wher did you get the service manual..?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I think it is in the LR workshop manual

[@dariuszrad4559]

Mike zrób odcinek o kolumnie kierowniczej QMB101620 wymiana lozysk

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Niestety nie mam tu żadnych kolumn, którymi mógłbym się pobawić. Wiem, że można zdobyć górne łożysko, ale dolne nie jest dostępne publicznie. Rozmawiałem na ten temat z JP i powiedział, że obecnie dostępne są tworzywa sztuczne, które nadają się do dużych obciążeń i niskich prędkości - powinny być idealne - ale nie znam wymiarów i czy będą działać Unfortunately, I have no columns here to play with. I know you can get the upper bearing, but the bottom one is not available to the public. I have spoken to JP about this, and he said there are plastics available now, which are suitable for high loads and low speed - should be perfect - but I do not know the dimensions, or if it will work

[@dariuszrad4559]

@@BritannicaRestorations Mike przerobiłem dolne łożysko na SS 6904 2RS i jest super SS znaczy ( nierdzewne) pomógł mój JP pozdrawiam.

[@johnstoneruth8809]

Hello, i have an Adwest steering block, which needs all the "O" rings changing...or i need another, compatible unit.. i am restoring a Daf 400 from 1991... would it be possible to find the appropriate parts in uk? we are in France where we are having trouble locating a company that supplies these kind of "O" rings... the sterring box is for a continental , left hand drive,

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Send me a picture of the box - [e-mail]

[@johnstoneruth8809]

@@BritannicaRestorations sent email.. with photos... thanks again..

[@mrscorpio1998]

What is the best/strongest power assisted steeringbox? I used to have a RHD six bolt PAS box, but now have an 4 bolt LHD PAS box from a range rover classic. Heard rumours there are 2 types of 4 bolts. One being weaker than 6, one being stronger. I'm not very fond of reconverting to 6 bolts as I have the box moved 4 cm to the front and still had to do some metal removing on my engine to make it fit without hitting. But the defender is about 2500 kg dry when finished....

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I could be wrong, but for power steering, there is an Adwest lightweight (4 bolt) and an Adwest heavy weight (3 bolt) The 6 bolt Gemmer gives very little problems As for weaker or stronger is a matter of opinion - I think here all are concerned if it leaks or not! As for breakages, I have had nothing in my shop in 20 years that has 'broken' on any box, but the 4 bolt Adwest is notorious for leaking - and leaks lead to bad bushings and bearings Sorry for not supplying the info you may require but, I have in my Defender a 3.9 Isuzu which is a solid lump of cast iron and very heavy - in Australia they were manual steering but I have a rebuilt (my own) 4 bolt PS box and steers perfectly Mike

[@mrscorpio1998]

@@BritannicaRestorations Great answer. I got a 3.8 VM / Detroit diesel installed. Cast iron, line bored (more cast iron). If the 4 bolt does the job i stuck with it.. The 6 bolt was leaking as well. Got 2 sealing kits: one for 4 bolt. One for 6 bolt. So leaking can be cured. Was concerned about breaking of housing/internals. Btw my engine m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWLYmKWrm62Ne5o

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I made a test bed to check for leaks but this winter I am making Mk2 I run every box for an hour and make sure the oil is hot - but I realised the rig I had made was only for 4 bolt types and no room to get the drag link to run when attached to the box I have has 'recon' boxes from the UK and they leaked - never tested! Mike