Land Rover - Bulk Head Welding

[@clivebowen4339]

Thanks. This is a job that my son and I will have to attack next summer on his 30 year old Defender. Both corners are knackered, along with the air flap surrounds. Another subscriber🙂.

[@mozsmancave2331]

It's fairly easy as long as the inside isn't too bad, mine was pretty badly pitted but structurally ok. Glad you enjoyed, thank you 😊

[@kennethburke8722]

Very neat work. Could watch this all day.

[@kenthetuner]

Love the shot of drinking Tea. The Welding Stig! I learnt a lot watching you, thanks for shareing your skills.

[@mozsmancave2331]

Glad you liked it! I'm hoping to get back into it soon 👍🏻

[@KarWerk-kg3cy]

I was just thinking, its welding Stig, aka Mig.

[@GrumpsBarn]

You're a far braver man than I realised....first you're taking on that knackered bulkhead...and secondly you've borrowed her indoors' hairdryer to use in the garage! :)

[@mozsmancave2331]

Why thank you 😁 it's her spare, I borrowed it, she's not having it back 🤣

[@spannersonthefen3491]

Good work there mate. That bulkhead has had a hard life for its age. A few more years in it now thanks to you.

[@mozsmancave2331]

I don't think it's done bad for 29 years, I'd say its aged better than I have in my 29 years 😅 thank you!

[@gregorydobson4307]

Another great video, just doing mine, same issues, bought a plasma to save some time & slitting discs

[@mozsmancave2331]

Cheers mate! It's tricky but doable! I have a plasma on my wish list 😅

[@KarWerk-kg3cy]

Nicely done. Thanks for the video.

[@adeh503]

Great short informative videos, no pissing about or waffling just showing you how the job's done 👍👍 new subscriber

[@mozsmancave2331]

Hi, thanks! I personally prefer a more direct video, so that's what I try produce. Thanks again!

[@adeh503]

@@mozsmancave2331 it's perfect brother 👍 top work

[@lookcreations]

Nicely done. Mines got less metal left to work with so I’m seriously thinking of investing in a replacement

[@mozsmancave2331]

Thanks, mine is a little sketchy but good enough to keep it rolling for a few more years

[@mikeharrison5087]

Great work well done (I'm doing a series 3 at the moment) like your project video series 👌

[@mozsmancave2331]

Cheers ☺️ I also have a series 3 lined up when the defender is finished, glad you liked it 👍🏻

[@BubbaZanetti6666]

I’m laughing at the bike getting a good limiter bashing😂 good work here, we do like too torture ourselves.

[@mozsmancave2331]

Thanks mate! There will be another video up soon repairing the vents, which hopefully means the bulk head is finished 😅 glad you enjoyed my neighbor bouncing his ninja off the limiter... He was at it for a good half hour

[@finrambo3594]

Very inspiring, I'm getting set to look at a series 3 bulkhead which is as bad/good as yours. Thanks great video.

[@mozsmancave2331]

You're welcome, it's time consuming but worth it 😀

[@roberttown2816]

This video is elite 👍

[@mozsmancave2331]

Thanks man! 💪🏻

[@jamesaddison81]

Amazing repair well done!

[@mozsmancave2331]

Cheers 👍🏻

[@nicholasviney5975]

You should have used some of my wife's shampoo to go with your dryer, it says on the bottle it restores body and shine. Good job by the way

[@mozsmancave2331]

Think we may have needed something a little bit stronger for this one 😅 thanks

[@awalk5177]

Excellent job, I am encouraged as I need to replace a little area near the brake pedals above the footwell on mine where wet leaves have sat and its rusted through. I'm wondering if I should use flux core or buy a MIG with gas ? Flux core seems to be popular now and particularly for outside welding .

[@mozsmancave2331]

Personally I would go with gas, flux core is good don't get me wrong, but unless you're prepared to pay for premium wire (as the cheap stuff is crap) gas works out cheaper 👍🏻

[@awalk5177]

@@mozsmancave2331 Thanks for the quick reply. I had a gas Mig before with a big CO2 bottle but sold it as I was working away. Certainly with gas the welds look smoother as there is no slag. Thanks again.

[@jamesward5721]

This area is all about 3 layers - it's faster to mark where your gutter is rotted to, then really chop deep - through all the layers, chuck the lot in the bin, stopping where the grot stops, then work back out in fresh steel layer by layer - there's absolutely nothing complex here, it's all easy shapes so there's no need for fear. Make the new gutter in 3 steps - that makes it a doddle - first weld on the back shape, then the gutter "bottom" then add the front lip - it boils it down to 3 easily shaped pieces. Caveat is that unless you take off the windscreen, brake master (just unbolt it, no need to disconnect anything) clutch master (same) & the entire dash - all of it - then you're not going to have enough access - take everything off so you can really poke about. Once you have the gubbins off, you can get to all the usual rotted places easily enough - at that stage, it's all just simple shapes to make, no rocket-science involved. Upside of doing it like that is you can also properly seal everything as you re-fit it - use decent sealer like Tiger Seal or Sika - none of yer silicone muck. Wherever you weld in new steel - at the risk of repeating myself :-) - use fiberglass filler over the welded seams before you start mucking about with paint/finish - otherwise it'll leak/rust. Common-sense is also needed on what holes to "delete" when re-making things - a hole is just a future leak - so less is more. Them door-hinge holes btw - the LR versions are a bit faffy - (I.E crap...) - bang an appropriate riv-nut in instead, screw the hinges onto those - enjoy nicer door-bolting/unbolting. Chuck the LR "cross-head" hinge bolts in the bin too - use allen-bolts instead, preferably stainless, but normals fine too - no more swinging out of a screwdriver trying to get the hinges off at a later date when stuff has seized again. :-) Mainly as it won't - especially if you use a little dab of grease. If you bothered reading this far (lol - nobody will) - the best "Hint" you will ever get is buy yourself some Novol "Protect 360" Epoxy 2-Pack primer. Shoot that before you touch filler, primers, paint, etc etc - put it right on over the clean bare metal/fiberglass filler - there's no better basecoat - nada - it will even shrug off a blowtorch flame for an indecent amount of time before it bubbles - unlike everything else you could use - plus water has no effect on it whatsoever - again, unlike most other primers. Buy some - thank me later. Do your normal polyester filler/glaze/wet sand/primer/base/clear over the top of it - it's like foundation - best to start from firm foundations. Give aerosols a total miss btw - apart from brake cleaner, cleaning products in general & penetrating oil, nothing good ever came out of an aerosol can - especially in regards to paint/rust prevention.

[@mozsmancave2331]

I think I need a lay down after reading all that mate 🤣 but good advice ☺️

[@jamesward5721]

@@mozsmancave2331 I did say nobody would read that far, Lol. :-)

[@johnsherborne3245]

You'd have thought that land rover would have learned how to paint after all the years they built them, but plainly the stickers were better protection than whatever they used.

[@mozsmancave2331]

Agreed if they had taken extra steps to prevent rust, or any steps for that matter 😂 then they would have lasted so much longer

[@cameronpitchers3868]

You should pre fabricate some and sell them mate

[@mozsmancave2331]

Thanks mate 🙂

[@desertdog1664]

Excellent vid mate, I'm in the process of doing the rust in my footwells but new to welding i keep blowing holes in the 1mm sheet. What settings do you have your welder set at? Amps(wire feed) and volts please?

[@mozsmancave2331]

Thanks mate! As for settings... Are you doing plug welds? If so it sounds like you're running too hot, drop the power and feed down to the lowest setting, grab some scrap material and try a spot weld for around 1-2 seconds, if there's not much penetration keep creeping the settings up bit by bit until you have it sizzling like bacon and you can hold that 1-2 second spot weld, let me now how you get on 👍🏻

[@pclarke70]

Excellent video, thank you. Do you weld the seams like that to prevent warping? Rather than run the welder along the line? Am interested as I’m not a welder but have found a couple of holes appearing in my Lightweight’s footwells 🤪

[@mozsmancave2331]

Hi! Cheers, yeah partly to help reduce warping and trying run a weld along the edges of thin sheet metal can be tricky.

[@conrad1468]

Lovely job!!

[@poleypops]

What brand rust treatment spray did you use? Great work by the way :)

[@mozsmancave2331]

Thank you 😁 it was from autotek same as the etch primer, was only cheap and I'm not sure if its actually any good 🤔

[@gregorydobson4307]

It's pretty good, used it a lot. Upol zinc 182 also good as its a rust inhibiting primer.

[@leifgower4580]

Hi. What is the thinkness of the steel sheet metal you are using

[@mozsmancave2331]

Hi, it's 1mm bright mild steel 👍🏻

[@distantraveler]

Awesome...I have to tackle my rust bucket

[@mozsmancave2331]

All I can say is good luck 😁

[@gavinbroad1743]

Apologies for the noob question, but what kind of welding is that please?

[@mozsmancave2331]

Hi, this is mig welding 🙂

[@gavinbroad1743]

@@mozsmancave2331 Thanks Moz. Tough to learn?

[@mozsmancave2331]

@@gavinbroad1743 I would say it's the easiest of the 3 main types of welding, you can pick hem up cheap, my best advice is to grab a welder and have a go 😉

[@pakjeeps]

Good job

[@mozsmancave2331]

Thanks 👌🏻

[@Relay300]

Great videos

[@mozsmancave2331]

Cheers! Means a lot thank you.

[@pakjeeps]

Good job