Land Rover Series Long Wheel Stud Conversion Wolf Wheels

A divisive topic among owners but I decided to make the 60mm wheel stud conversion on WRD's hubs.
"Wolf" heavy duty steel wheels were fitted to some Series Land Rovers by the military, using standard wheel studs. The studs apear too short for the nut - the science says it's no problem but it just doesn't look right and it is easily put right, should you wish to do so.
This video covers how I went about the conversion, making a special tool to avoid too much hammer wielding - not kind to the wheel bearings.

[@odc43054]

I knew when you mentioned you could beat out the studs, that you would make a tool. :-) Nice job.

[@steamwally]

It's just a nice way of doing the job, I could have thrashed them all out and probably seen no Ill effects, but it's just not a nice way to treat stationary bearings. Rotating bearings can handle those forces, stationary you can do damage.

[@TM15R]

Another job well done, keep up the good work.

[@nickboylen6873]

It was the early 90 and 110 fleet refurbished by Hobsons (Project Tithonus) that used Wolf rims with the original shorted studs, rather than SIIIs, but as you said, there is no technical problem with it, just a few MoT inspectors that disapprove because they don’t have the details of how overengineerd the studs and nut are, and on road cars the same issue would be a weakness. I did a similar swap to Wold studs when I fit allows to a 110 Salisbury axle converted to disc brakes - I had to use the nave of the scrap brake drums as spacers, and I didn’t like the reduced thread length left for the nuts. The hardest part of the job was the gouging by LR for genuine studs, at over £10 (+vat) each compared to a set of 10 for £10 from Britpart, but I didn’t want chinesium studs that’d have half the strength of the too-short original studs. Nicely done, with the puller tool you made.

[@steamwally]

I stand corrected, thank you. The price of the studs was eye watering, but I wanted to do the job just once!

[@nickboylen6873]

steamwally, I feel your pain! LR Gen Parts prices are ludicrous! They complain they don’t sell enough, so need to have high prices. I think they’re putting the cart before the horse - if they had sensible prices, owners would buy Gen Parts instead of the tat that Britpart cobble together in their Chinese and Indian sweat shops. I was lucky to only need to replace the studs on one axle!

[@ootnaboot2]

Love the tool you made. Would be great to see dimensions and diagram of the tool so that others can make the tool.

[@HeinerStorch]

Great video and very helpful to me. Now I know, that I don't have to take the hubs off the axle. The second point is the tapered shape of the series studs at the head, which I was not aware of by now. I wonder, if there are studs for the series 3 with the correct shape on the head, as it shouldn' t be a probleme, if they are 10mm or so shorter than the Defender Wolf studs.

[@123Bilko]

Nice little tool you've made their.👍👍👍👍

[@steamwally]

Thanks, it just made it so easy!

[@daviemaclean61]

Very cool. I had just bought a full set of new tyres for my Series 3 when you fitted the Wolf wheels or I might have gone down the same road once I saw yours. They do look good.

[@daviemaclean61]

Also meant to say - I can't believe the new longer studs weren't just a tad too long to fit without removing the hub - jammy! ;-)

[@steamwally]

For me the choice was because I'd had a string of inner tube failures with some original wheels that I had obtained. A set of Wolf wheels and tyres worked out at a reasonable price, but I do like the look. I'd done my research and knew that those studs would just fit, but it is tight!

[@HeinerStorchennest1]

Having the FOC7577 in my hand, I wonder, whether they will fit , when I go back to standard rims, as the thread starts some millimeters off the head. Furthermore, tapering the head as shown by you, will put the thread further outside the hub. Perhaps, the thread ends before the nut presses the rim to the brake-drum?

[@christopherlewington7909]

A nice job as usual - would be very interested in seeing you do a front disc conversion as i have been thinking about doing on my series three but as i have the original wheels i think i am correct in saying you cant fit the caliper as not enough room so would need new wheels?

[@steamwally]

Thanks, yes I believe you are right that wheels with a greater off-set are required. I've a lot more research to do on the subject first but I think it will work with the Wolf's. I'd be tempted to convert both axles, but we'll see. Other than increased braking performance, I have always found the TLS drums on the late Series 3 a nightmare to bleed. The MG has shown me how easy disks are to maintain, compared to drums.

[@stephencrowther524]

Good job.

[@scottyoung8277]

Hi mate - Aussie, living in US with a Series III - wanting to change my standard wheel bolts for the extended - by chance - could I buy that tool you made for extraction of the bolts and pop it in the mail pls? Many thanks Scotty

[@SamuelBricker-v3q]

Hello there, I'm having trouble finding the FOC7577 extended stud for my series III. Rovers north sells the FRC7577 but they said the knurled end wont fit the hub. Can you direct me to where to buy them? Thanks!

[@ScottDavenportandco]

What is the thread pitch on the wheel studs? Did you use 50 or 60mm length studs? And is this really necessary to mount the Wolf wheels on the stock wheel studs on a Series 3?

[@janq-h8139]

Nice, thanks for sharing, I liked your simple tool. What kind of disc brakes are you thinking of? Just on the front wheels?

[@steamwally]

I was thinking about the Zeus conversion. As yet I need to do a bit more research but I've had a number of near misses in wet weather with waterlogged drums. It's frightening when you stand on the brakes and nothing happens! The same cannot be said of disks, they just work. For a vehicle in nearly daily use, it seems a good upgrade. If I go down that route, it will be disks all round.

[@nickboylen6873]

steamwally, I have used Zeus stainless pistons in my RRC callipers and then on the callipers on my 109 with 110 axles. They’re excellent, so you can be confident about Zeus quality. Have a look on Facebook for Design and Development Engineering - they’re in the late stages of a brake conversion kit for Series vehicles using coiler callipers and discs, which will make future parts sourcing a lot easier and may make installation cheaper if you can use second hand parts with their kit brackets and whatnot.

[@sammyspitty]

Nice video, but I'm confused, why would the studs not fit all the way down out of the box? Most people me included don't have a lathe.

[@steamwally]

Because they are designed to fit later Land Rover hubs, as described in the video. These fit High Capacity 130's - presumably the larger head on the stud was designed with the higher vehicle loads in mind. With modification they can safely be used with Series hubs - if you can find a general engineering shop which will do a bit of turning for you, expect to pay somewhere around £60 to have them modify a set of studs.

[@highdownmartin]

Fitted 110 tubeless to my lwb. Came fitted with Michelin xpc tyres. They’re good. 1/4” deeper offset which doesn’t notice. The wolf’s are the same offset? 2”?

[@steamwally]

I'm not sure what the actually offset is, but I'd say you're right comparing pictures of WRD on standard rims against the Wolf's. I could certainly corner harder after fitting the Wolf's, cocking a front wheel is easy on those grippy Grabbers!

[@HeinerStorchennest1]

Please, can you tell what WRD does stand for?

[@jamesanderson84]

What was the grease you applied to the studs before you installed them?

[@steamwally]

I used a Rocol antiseize, basically like copperslip.

[@isaacericson3873]

Where'd you get the new studs?

[@steamwally]

Paddocks, I think! From memory I gave the part number in the video, google that and it should find a few sources. P A Blanchards probably good for those too.

[@Allupinmybiznes]

What make are your free wheeling hubs?

[@steamwally]

They are Mayflower hubs (M.A.P). Hard to find them in good condition now but they are one of the better types of freewheeling hub.

[@Allupinmybiznes]

@@steamwally a working set came on my 1978 series III. I am still debating if i will Keep them fitted as I wont be putting up big mileage and it will be 50/50 on road/offroad.

[@steamwally]

@@Allupinmybiznes My opinion is that they are well worth having, but they are an extra part that needs maintenance. They do noticeably improve the drive on the road. Mostly, they look great!

[@Allupinmybiznes]

@@steamwally ok, Thanks. Ive been following your gearbox, transfer and axle rebuilds while rebuilding my own. Great videos. I have a different engine though. Mine came fitted with a perkins 4203. It is also recorded on the log book. I was thinking of fitting something more original but after using it a bit before the restoration, i got to like it.

[@ST-kj5ch]

make the tool to sell, im sure people would buy..

[@steamwally]

It would be nice to think so, but it seems to be that most Land Rover people don't appreciate such things. I regularly post on some other pages and my way of doing things is usually shot down in favour of hammers.. Sadly it's not really practical for me to make things like that on a production basis, interesting one off jobs are my thing.

[@brianbrelsford6436]

@@steamwally since watching this video i would buy one as i'm doing mine this week . i did'nt want to use a hammer but i did just gently mind but it worked then had to give my local engineers a call and have 1.3mm taken off the rim . hopefully they will fit nice and snug now i have them back only cost a tenner aswell keep up the good work .