Install Electrical Part 3 Build a Workshop 23

[@spelunkerd]

One of the humbling things about doing DIY wiring is the way self confidence grows much faster than real understanding. The end result is a typical mess of wiring in many homes that are nowhere close to building codes, anywhere. It's pretty clear that the author is genuinely a good person, which explains why this video has so many likes. That said, anybody using this as an instructional video needs to do a lot more work before making the same mistakes. Creatively drilling a hole in the LB fitting access door to thread more wires at least requires a recalculation of conduit fill, to be sure you don't cause a derating of all the wires inside the conduit. Those wires generate heat, and excessive heat from high conduit fill can cause fires. Better to use another access hole and fix the drywall later. The trench needs to be at least 18" deep, covered over by warning tape and usually pressure treated planks and sand for mechanical protection, with a sleeve joint in the vertical conduit at each wall to account for heaving soil. In the subpanel, wires share access holes, I believe only two cables of similar gauge can go through each hole, better to have one. The subpanel has no lugs for the feeder wire, that's unusual at least. You shouldn't need a breaker at each end of the feeder wire just so you can replace missing feeder lugs. Unfortunately some of these creative wiring decisions will be obviously visible to any building inspector, and they will raise the issue of hidden code violations that can't be found. Even assuming there are no liability issues later, negative inspection findings reduce resale value of a home.

[@LandtoHouse]

Great comment! So many people on KZbin toss out hate with no explanation to back the opinion. I tried to ask around for information on how this step should be done. Seems like there are some code differences based on state and even county. That being said I am sure that there are plenty of issues that I should have studied more. I do think that your comment will help others as they work on similar projects.

[@spelunkerd]

@@LandtoHouse As a fellow KZbinr I know exactly what you mean, I wish more people understood the ethics and spirit of the best authors. Thanks for your kind understanding!

[@thomasmarable6818]

@@LandtoHouse all of the United States uses the national electrical code, which some jurisdiction add stricter compliance. Some parts of the code is up to interpretation, which then a meeting with the Authority having jurisdiction is in order to get an interpretation.

[@jllaine]

Seth, I really enjoy following along on your diy adventures. You did pretty good. Standards/code allow for a backfed double-pole (both legs) breaker as a 'main cut off' for a sub-panel, the panel manufacturer will recommend putting it in position #1, marking it clearly and distinctly, and it should have a retaining screw because even switched off and poped out of the box it is still an energized circuit and could short to the enclosure or a ground wire. Local 'earth' ground at outbuildings is needed because the 'long' run back to the main panel's ground might have too much resistance across that distance for a safe ground discharge when a hot shorts to something like a table saw's metal case. Dual ground rods for better bonding to earth-ground became code in 2011. You are right that you will have to be careful about what you run at the same time, the AC, computer, lights, will consume a lot of the 30 amp service to the sub-panel. Actually my biggest concern was running the new wire through the faceplate of the junction box under the house because that will be a big pain in the neck if anyone has to open it back up in the future. One last thought: drilling the hole for the wire into the crawlspace would be easier starting from the inside where you can see the mortar joints and put your hole in the center of a block's cavity, or drill through the rim joist which is a lot easier than the block.

[@radchander]

It looks like you really know the stuff. Kudos to you for the way you nicely and in a humble way articulated .

[@darrques101]

"So this long enough, you have either really strong arms or arthritis." So true. Thanks buddy for the videos, we appreciate you and your time to educate us.

[@LandtoHouse]

Thank you for watching! This has been one of my favorite projects.

[@seamansj]

Enjoyed this series of videos and thanks for going into detail on how to do all this. Makes it a little easier to understand.

[@LandtoHouse]

Thanks for watching! I am still learning to do this stuff myself!

[@desolatetree]

That conduit is good. Like you said, one day a shovel is going to find that wire, and now it'll find the conduit first. I'm an apprentice electrician now, so these videos are pretty entertaining to me. Keep up the nice work!

[@LandtoHouse]

Oh my I bet the electrical work that I am doing is frightening to you! I have zero training as you can tell but It works and I am happy with the outcome. I will have to stand back next time I work with turning on breakers. I was not really worried about this one but you never know.

[@desolatetree]

I feel like I should say why. In 120v, the risk is extremely low and nothing you should really worry about. It's just a good practice to be in. The "danger" here is an arc flash. Basically a bright, hot explosion that goes straight out of the panel. Standing to the side and looking away is enough to keep you safe.

[@LandtoHouse]

That does make sense. Next time I will turn away and make sure that I at least have on glasses. Luckily in this case everything has gone smoothly. I have been out in the shop for a few days with no problems.

[@heroknaderi]

Great job man I enjoyed it. I guess 30 amps is perfect for a small shop

[@TheSeanUhTron]

Can't really go any lower for a sub panel. 30A is the minimum.

[@strangedays871]

This is by far the best video I have seen of this process. You showed every step which is much appreciated.

[@LandtoHouse]

Thank you. It was almost every step. Please remember that I am not an electrician.

[@danserrano2251]

DAMN!!! I NEEDED A GOOD LAUGH TODAY THANKS MAN👍

[@LandtoHouse]

Haha happy to help.

[@liamcarters8987]

Dan Serrano lol

[@luiscisneros6475]

What is the name of that pliers

[@fivestarglobalit1987]

How did the ground wire get hooked up, the long one that went under the house and got hooked around the metal post you pounded into the ground? Also, you put in two of those metal posts. Does a separate ground wire need to go onto that one?

[@LandtoHouse]

A separate wire goes from the box down to the rods and is attached by a specific clamp designed for those ground rods.

[@jsota22]

Okay great, thank for letting me know. Great video. I'm a complete beginner with more time on my hands, and looking to build a shed with lighting. Lol not as much as you but it was cool how you explained it. A lot of professionals that do these videos skip over the parts they think people should know.

[@wizard3z868]

@@jsota22 called job security lol

[@James-fr9sq]

What size wire would I need to use to run 220 for my ban saw in my new shop?

[@wizard3z868]

depends on the wattage needed by the device the fact its 220/240 dosent mean anything ive used 14 gauge for 240 devices? 14 gauge 240v 80% max is good for 2880 watts. a good rule of thumb though wld be a 30 amp with 10 gauge

[@jamesthompson103]

What size breaker in your sub panel did you use to feed your panel and what size breakers are you going to put in ur sub panel?

[@LandtoHouse]

I don't remember in the panel. As for the sub panel I went with 15amp.

[@73superglide62]

So I have polebarn 220 in it and building a garage 30 ft away and need same power over there ,how wood u do it

[@LandtoHouse]

First you should check your local code. My building was close to the house so I was able to get the wire run underground without any issues. I do not know much about this type of work. I was able to take a 10/3 from the house and connect the two 110v to make the 220v in the building. I do not feel comfortable giving any actual how to advice on wiring your place.

[@wizard3z868]

ive seen some issues but its an authority having jurisdiction issue and wld recommend getting a permit and inspection for home owners insurance reasons.

[@darrques101]

I'm sorry and I may sound very stupid here but how did the power get to everything by being connected to the subpanel by a fuse switch instead of by hooking the red and black to the subpanel itself(the top terminals)?

[@darrques101]

Please tell us where you got this pliers from, they are awesome.

[@LandtoHouse]

Those pliers were a Christmas gift many years ago. I think. But could have been radio shack.

[@Joemama-km9np]

Wait, you connected your 2 hots from the main panel directly to a breaker in the sub panel? How are the other breakers getting power? I'm about to do this and from what I understand is that your 2 hots carry 120v each so each get connected to a lug on top, carrying 120v to each side.

[@LandtoHouse]

Please note that I am no pro. Yes I connected the two sides of the hot to the breakers to allow two 120v.

[@daveobsoleteammo4547]

If he connected to the top he would have no way to cut power to the panel except back at the house . In the sub-panel you notice sort of an "S" type shape to where the breakers snap in because they alternate from 1-2 to breaker 3-4 ( each one fed from alternating power source ) . By placing his double-ganged breaker across an "S" shape he gets to feed both sides of breakers from his double-ganged breaker . Two hot wires in , and each one coming out feeds a different side . That was why he had to skip the first spot down and place it over the 2-3 spots so he was across both sides .

[@garystilson7761]

In the house panel, did you wire to a 30amp feeder breaker?

[@johnmichaelfowler5161]

what amp breaker did you use in the main house panel to send power to the shed?

[@LandtoHouse]

I don't remember exactly but I assume 30 amp

[@michaeladamson1729]

"Hold my beer, watch this" proceeds to wire electrical. I like it. 👍

[@LandtoHouse]

Haha. And I didn't even have a beer for holding.

[@desolatetree]

One thing I've noticed is at 22:23 you stood in front of the breaker. You want to stand off to one side just in case something were to happen.

[@TheJerseyRejects]

what size breaker did you put in the house?

[@LandtoHouse]

I honestly don't remember. The breaker is within the limits of the wire.

[@shoaibalichaudhary5675]

what if my main panel is all filled up and is already running a sub panel, can i still somehow run power to my shed by wiring a second sub panel?

[@LandtoHouse]

That question is beyond my knowledge. You might contact a local electrician for the answer. I would not want to lead you in the wrong direction.

[@wariqkobra]

You can install breakers that split a 120 circuit into two in your sub panel. Look up: 2-20 amp single pole tandem circut breakers.

[@anonymousperson4363]

Not all panels are compatible.

[@charleskiplinger9904]

Seth, Looks like you ran 100 amp rated wire. Curious, why didn't you just run it from the meter? Easy hookup and no worry about the house wiring.

[@LandtoHouse]

That would have added another 75 feet of wire. That translates to $110. I was not ready to spend that just yet. My budget has been reached for the building at the moment because Emma will be here in a couple weeks. I wanted to get power to the building and not go over. (That would have made an unhappy wife and life). But yes that would have been nice.

[@chickedwin7194]

That was a good try sir. Remember people will always have a way to blame even without any reasonable rationale. I still want to hail u for this

[@LandtoHouse]

:) it works so far.

[@adriangomez1650]

Good work

[@LandtoHouse]

Thank you!

[@johniemullins5142]

DON’T forget GFI OUTSIDE PLEASE CORRECT BEFORE YOU BURN THE SHOP AND YOUR HOUSE DOWN

[@thomasmarable6818]

By code all those recptical are supposed to be GFCI protected

[@PaOutcast]

Thank You much for videoing your project! Did a great job explaining as you went!

[@LandtoHouse]

Thank you for watching. I am no pro but the project did turn out well.

[@johniemullins5142]

Code requirements are conduit from panel to panel not start stop

[@fd3871]

why did you put the feeder wires in the subpanel into a breaker instead of directly into the lugs? does that mean that you don't have a breaker in the main panel (or you have both)? this is kindof a convoluted wiring scheme. also aren't you supposed to be balancing the load on both of the poles? e.g. half on one side of the breaker and half on the other.

[@BAKERHUSKIE]

Serves as a cut off. Without having to shut main panel.

[@LandtoHouse]

The panel sides are alternating top to bottom. So I am balancing the two sides. There is a breaker in the house as well as in the shop. It does act as a cutoff in the shop. So I can do electrical work out there and not walk back and forth in the house.

[@LandtoHouse]

Yes exactly! Thank you.

[@rmreid1957]

Why the two ground rods

[@LandtoHouse]

Every source that I read said that I needed two rods for the distance that I went to get to the building. I am not sure if it has to do with resistance or for lightning strikes. I am not sure.

[@rmreid1957]

OK I had never heard that, good to know

[@LandtoHouse]

I had not heard of it either but things are working flawlessly so I wont complain.

[@anonymousperson4363]

Some jurisdictions require two by their local code.

[@JohnDoe-xl1qs]

Your Work is Very Clean

[@LandtoHouse]

Thank you. I have no training at all but it seems to be working flawlessly so far.

[@behrens97]

It appears your sub panel is fed by a 10 gauge feed. The feed is overloaded in my opinion.

[@LandtoHouse]

+behrens97 I have 10/3 wire. So there are 2 circuits. Should not have an issue unless I try to run several tools at once.

[@mikeso5963]

how many amp from the main panel?

[@LandtoHouse]

+mike the two circuits are going to 15amp breakers.

[@skipduld3630]

WITH A 125 AMP SHOULD U HAVE A 1/0 4 WIRE IM I CORRECT ?

[@LandtoHouse]

I decided not to tie in as 125 amp. I am only pulling two 30 amp across to the building. With 80 feet of wire I am losing around 5%. I am able to use 10/3 wire for this run.

[@maykevin5]

There's not enough lines on a sheet of paper for all the code violations.

[@LandtoHouse]

Code.... where we're going we don't need code.

[@adamwilson8559]

Land to House, how's this working for you? I'm not an electrician and code violations are not my area of expertise, but I do see some things that would make me wonder: 1) It's actually possible that white plumbing PVC is perfectly fine (and would even pass inspection) as some manufacturers certify it to meet the same temp/flame resistance as electrical PVC. BUT that's missing the point a bit, as my concern with your install is the sharp angle of the plumbing T-fitting you used. It might be fine, but minimum bend angles are important to keep the wires from being damaged, especially with the solid copper you're using. This applies to some of the bends you had in the panel itself, btw. You want the wires to curve, not bend sharply, whenever possible. Even a partial break in the conductor can lead to some pretty serious heat generation, as it effectively reduces the gauge of the wire. 2) You mentioned quite a few can lights, a computer, and an AC? That's a bunch of circuits to run on a 10/3 wire. You said you used 30 amp breakers on your main panel and that "main" breaker you installed in the subpanel is 30 amp too? If so, you should be fine on the safety front, but that breaker seems like it would trip pretty often with all those loads on it. 3) Balancing the circuit loads between the two lug plates is always a good idea. 4) You seem to have jumpered two breakers together in the panel. Why was that done? 5) Credit for using the clamp fittings to relieve strain in the runs coming into the panel (and out from your main panel it seems), but check the bottom-right knock-out. I think 3 romex runs is over-doing it for a single clamp, and risks damaging the insulation over time. Remember that EVERYTHING moves with hot/cold cycles over time, so you might get by with stuff like that in the short run, but over time it can abrade the sheathing and insulation of your wires. (same goes for the sharp bends mentioned earlier). A couple things you did well: 1) good job using UF wire in the conduit. a lot of people think that if they're in conduit they can get away with regular NM-B, but it's still damp/outside and needs the more robust protection of the UF. 2) good job separating the neutrals and grounds. Because you did this, I don't believe you needed to install the ground rods (but I also don't see the harm in it, and have a hard time thinking an inspector would ping you for that). 3) overall neat and orderly work. If and when you need to change things, you should have an easy time doing so, and there's a LOT be be said for that.

[@HurricaneHusky]

How long did it take you to type all that lol

[@ionraice]

Maybe to late to the party here but it might be a good idea to test all the outlets with an outlet tester to be sure that they're perfect.

[@LandtoHouse]

+ionraice that is good advice. I have used a lightbulb and all of them do work.

[@ionraice]

I did see that but the tester will tell you when the neutral and hot are switched and the lightbulb will not. I don't know why that matters but I'm told it does.

[@LandtoHouse]

I have a tester in my tool collection. I will have to get it out.

[@thomasmarable6818]

Dude you can't run branch circuit wire in with those feeder wire or attached to a condulet cover. If you have an electrical fire in your house you just gave the insurance company a way out of paying.

[@ArizonaHotHomestead]

nice. good when you have no spark or smoke. lol

[@LandtoHouse]

Yes I was not really worried. Although it was dramatic I made sure that Things were in the right place before starting.

[@dylancarter6386]

420 blaze it.

[@rmhanseniii]

To anyone watching this video this is exactly how not to do electrical work... just because the light turns on does it mean it’s done right or safely

[@michaelwilhite596]

I watched this and yes nothing is up to code. But generally who cares. I built a shop a year ago and have been running lights and stuff off an extension cord with absolutely no issues. That is everything I need running off basically 15amps coming in. I have wired the entire shop with 8 receptibles and 4 LED lights running off a switch. I will never run anything that needs 220v or a large compressor. Just lights and charging my cordless stuff. So why would I need anything more than 10ga wire running the basic stuff. Most of you "experts" would want me to hire a $75/hr electrician to do over do what I need. I feel very comfortable in running my own system and definitely won't cause a fire. Just good common sense and taking your time. Of course if I was wiring a complete house that needed code requirements. I would hire that over rated electrician. It's amazing how many videos by so many different people show you can do it without hand holding.

[@ronaldsanchez1341]

Big TIP OF THE DAY; never use connectors of any type when going under ground; use straight runs w/o interruptions!

[@skipduld3630]

IM SORRY I DIDN'T WRITE THAT IM SKIP AND IM PULLING 2/0 ALLUMNUM FOR 125 AMP SO TO BE ABLE TO GO 150 IF I WANTED TO. UR RIGHT 10/3 IS TO SMALL

[@LandtoHouse]

Yes 150 feet is a good bit more than my 75 feet. Also with only 15amp breakers.

[@RBMawby]

Yea!

[@tammyfinch4325]

you really hate bugs, don't you! 😉

[@johnpflug5966]

I would say bug phobia LOL

[@LandtoHouse]

Haha they are not my favorite!

[@LandtoHouse]

Yes bugs are annoying. You should see how many there are in the shop right now. Lady bugs and stink bugs.

[@tonystrollo193]

Man, this is so so wrong, this installation of attaching a circuit to a electrical cover, and You can not run branch circuits inside a feeder pipe. This is wrong and against code, and if there was a fire, and the Insurance company found out, which now is on video, you can forget any insurance payout. I would remove this immediately, Get yourself a licensed electrician. There are so many other code violations, The wiring in the sub panel is a disaster, the feed wire is under sized . I hope you don't intend to run electric heaters, I would remove this video, to protect yourself from your Homeowner's Insurance. WoW this is incredible

[@KevinCoop1]

OMG. There is way too much wrong in this video to even talk about. If anyone is going to try to do power to a shed, don't do it this way. Do it right which is the safe way. If you don't know how, don't do it. The life you save may be your own. No further comments will be made regarding this video.

[@LandtoHouse]

One of my favorite comments: "Code, Where we're going we don't need code"

[@KevinCoop1]

Land to House Your homeowners insurance company is very familiar with NEC. If you have a fire in the future, you have publicly shown disregard for safety. They could deny any claims. Worse if some one gets injured or dies. Possible criminal charges. Have a wonderful life.

[@KevinCoop1]

Land to House I just watched your first two videos for installing electric in your shed. You did an awesome job inside the shed. Very well done. I just tell you the truth. Respectfully, Kevin

[@LandtoHouse]

I appreciate that. I'm sure I missed tons of code issues but I did try to research some of them.

[@KevinCoop1]

Land to House This videos issues were more misuse of materials than specific NEC violations. Always use the products for their intended use only. An inspector found a misused part on a job and told the contractor to replace them. The problem was, there were more than 100,000 of them already installed. True story!

[@wr6392]

What an absolute mess of ignorance. Guy should be nowhere near a wire.

[@LandtoHouse]

If you would make a short list of items that need improvement so others may learn please. Or share your videos on proper wire technique. I enjoy the opinion of others.

[@wr6392]

Land to House i think the other people that commented covered all the code violations pretty well.

[@LandtoHouse]

Ok cool. The shop power is doing well so far.

[@wariqkobra]

Month late, but he did specify that he was nowhere near an electrician - just a guy wiring up his shed. With that said, it takes real guts to wire ANYTHING and put it up in the internet for everyone to dissect and rip apart every little NEC code violation he committed (and he had... quiet a few). Constructive criticism goes a lot further than saying "this shit's a mess". To OP - you might have gotten your bulbs to turn on, but i would invest in a good tester and check voltage along those lines. They may seem okay, but shit gets awry when serious load is introduced.

[@adamwilson8559]

@@wariqkobra +1 for this. No way would this have passed inspection (in my area anyway - WA State), and there are some worrisome issues with what was done, but credit to the OP for tackling the work and posting. And extra kudos for handling the comments with humility. Good job.

[@drs4649]

Your dangerous. Ammeter presentation.

[@LandtoHouse]

Was there a disclaimer on this video? I can't remember.

[@berati99]

Good job, better do it yourself then hire electrician. They are not going to do better than you

[@thomasmarable6818]

Yes I would have done it better. My work would have been 100 percent to code.

[@gregberban9273]

He should be banned from ever making a video about anything that he's not licensed in...

[@LandtoHouse]

It's only a tool shed. No need to freak out.

[@celbertbrown]

Im sure you heard him say he isnt a licensed electrician and take it for what it is which means "dont take this video as advice on how to wire a shop!" You dont like it? Luckily you have the right not to watch it instead of being an offended moron and commenting your negativity.

[@gregberban9273]

I'll say just like you whatever I want to