Lap Sealant Isn't Necessary! There is a Better Way of Sealing RV Rooftop Attachments

[@jonnyrockets4756]

I use a dewalt multi oscillating tool with a wide scraper blade. Works great. I've worked on rvs for over 20 years. Dicor makes the roofing material and the sealant. It's a good product when used properly. It's work no matter what. Good job.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I've never used the oscillating tool. Must give that a try next time, thanks for the tip. I respect what you're saying about Dicor, and your experience with working on rvs. I wish I had shares in that company! I appreciate you watching this video, and commenting. Thanks!

[@gphilpot1]

Brother, you absolutely nailed this. Dicor Lap Sealant is the dumbest idea. Their motto is "bigger the glob, better the job". They put so much sealant that is does cause a water dam and prone the water damage. That Marine sealant works wonders. I have a few things to correct on my roof. I plan to use the Marine sealant like you did. Thank you for sharing.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Oh that's funny, I have never heard of that motto. Thanks for being so supportive of this technique and type of sealant. I really do believe in using only marine grade sealant and other types of marine fittings when possible on our RV. And the water dam effect you mention was sure real in our case. It was like a swimming pool. Thanks for being a believer and getting rid of this Dicor stuff. And good luck when you fix those things on your roof. Cheers!

[@HolidayRambling]

Just because there is a mass market product made for a job doesn’t mean it’s the right way to do it. I also hate the look of Dicor type sealants. So many videos of people slathering it all over their roofs, it looks so bad. Ive been waiting for video like this, thank you!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

In a few concise sentences you have neatly summarized what I was feeling making this video. Thank you! I was a bit hesitant putting myself "out there" with this idea that frustrated me, thinking who am I to take on an industry practice that people seem to follow without question. But I jumped in and now, you've made me feel it's all worthwhile. I really appreciate you for telling me this. All the best!

[@pithon3d477]

Nice work. Another great sealant is Dow 795 because it sticks extremely well to anything. Most People don't know about it because it's a commercial sealant with a high flexibility and an incredible stretch factor. The flex factor is awesome on an RV due to the constant movement while driving.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for your kind comment and for telling me (and our viewers) about this Dow product. I love learning about new supplies to use, recommended by others who have tried them. I too like the flex factor. I will look for this one. Thank you!

[@JJs-ClassC-Adventures]

Just found your channel. I love your channel name...very creative play on This Old House. We have a 24 year old Class C motorhome. Making improvements like this are essential for RVs with some age on them. There is so much information on You Tube that it is getting much harder to find quality content. Thanks so much.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I'm really glad you found us. It's kind of you to write to us to let us know. And you nailed the name, that's exactly where our name came from. I love it when people maintain older RV's (and older cars) and there are so many things we can do to keep them in good shape. I hope you stay with us and that you keep enjoying your older Class C. It's probably better built than the new ones today. All the best, and thanks again for your comment.

[@aronk7412]

Great video. Thank you. Surprised you didn’t apply sealant to the screws and fender washers. I would think water would penetrate over time. Thanks for sharing!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thank you, I'm glad you watched the video. And your comment about sealant to the screws and fender washers is a good observation. I didn't do a very good job at showing the sealing of these two things, something I regret. They are actually sealed quite well. Before laying the broad bead of sealant along the flange line, I squeezed sealant into each hole and then covered it all with the broad bead of sealant. When I placed the skylight over the holes and the broad bead of sealant, the sealant oozed up and down through the holes. When I tightened the screws with fender washers underneath, the sealant naturally oozed around the screw head and washer, and I wiped off the excess. It gives the appearance that there isn't any sealant around the screws and washers, but there is. When I use this method on my sailboat as I have for many years, there are places where I can look underneath the deck to see what is happening. The sealant always forms a tight seal around the screw, all the way through and when I see sealant around the tip of the screw, I know it's good. The trick is to use lots of sealant and be prepared to wipe it clean where you want a nice appearance - without compromising the seal. This is what has given me confidence to follow the procedure on our RV. To be extra cautious on the RV, there is no harm in placing a smear of sealant over the screw head and fender washer. I think most people will likely want to do this. I didn't think it necessary but maybe I'm just being too fussy, wanting a clean look. The RV roof top isn't like a boat where appearance is important. Perhaps I have to change my ways! Thanks again for asking the question. It's a good one and I appreciate the positive way you asked it. Cheers!

[@rvninnorthcarolina3377]

Please take a note, this method works well for the application he is using it for...that is to say, he is using this sealant on a fiberglass roof and his method makes sense here. If you have a membrane style roof, especially a Dicor roof material with the longer warranty, take the time to read your warranty since it will tell you that you they highly recommend using Dicor roof cleaner, sealant and lap sealant to maintain your roof EACH year to not void your warranty (keep recpts). It is also explicitly recommended to NOT use silicon or latex caulk since it may damage the rubber membrane and will not adhere properly. I have a 10 year warranty on my roof, so I use the Dicor products and they have worked just fine. As far as the lap sealant, I remove the sealant that is in place every other year and the reapply. The older sealant tends to get dirty and the new sealant will not stick to it correctly....I do clean the sealant when I do reapply and over-seal, but I find after to years it is too hard to clean and it shrinks. This sealant removal also keeps down the water retention issues that constant reapplication without sealant removal tends to happen. To that note I have also seen people use Permabond Tape with great success too. A lot of the Skoolie crowd uses this and they get years of adhesion and positive sealing. Fellow RV'er resealed his older travel trailer with a TPM roof 3 years ago and he has had no issues. Great video and a great discussion!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I am grateful to you for having the interest and knowledge, and taking the time to offer this clarification and other options. I did not emphasize enough in my video that the method I used is solely for fibreglass roofs - and many RVs have different roof construction. I suspect I may have left many people hanging, wondering about their particular situation. Your words are better than a video! Thank you for chiming in this way.

[@mobiltec]

There is an even better way to do this and it will be much easier to replace the dome in the future. You don't want to GLUE it to the roof. Use PUTTY TAPE. Not butyl but you can use that too. Butyl Tape is great but messy. PUTTY tape is a drier form of the same thing and will last for years before replacement is needed. Up to 15 year or more. It will seal the best and not glue the dome to to the roof. We use this for Vintage Trailers all the time. It is time tested and has been used for almost 70 years.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thank you for telling me and others about this, it sounds like a great technique and I suspect you know what you're talking about. And you're right, the way I did it does bond it to the roof and a bit of a chore to remove. I'm always looking for better ways of doing things and I'm taking special notice of what you're saying. I have no experience with butyl or putty tape, I guess it's time. All the best, thanks again.

[@gerrystrohl3823]

I found your video so very relevant to my ongoing trials of sealing skylights and roof vents from water intrusion. FYI, Practical Sailor published "Marine Sealant Adhesion Tests" of polyurethane and silicone products. From this article several good products for sealing/adhering RV roof applications are offered. I agree with you to use Sikaflex 295 (or a suitable UV resistant product) without the mounting screws through the skylight Lexan would offer a low maintenance alternative to Dicor sealant and mounting screws.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I'm glad the video was helpful and thanks for telling me about the Practical Sailor article on marine sealants. I enjoy and trust that publication, it's helped me for many years with my sailboat. I'm still kicking myself for using the screws in this RV skylight attachment, I should have known better. I had a nice, clean opportunity to avoid the screws and rely soley on the strength and sealing ability of the marine sealant. I hope your ongoing projects go well. Thanks for watching and for your meaningful comment.

[@keninvic2627]

I owned a sailboat for decades before I purchased my motorhome. I could not believe the crap products in the RV industry. I tell everyone I meet to stop using self levelling sealants and use 3M 5200 marine caulking/adhesive instead. You won’t be doing it every year. I haven’t had to replace mine in 12 years.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

There you go! Thank you, I don't feel so alone anymore. My RV supply store is our local marine shop in our small town. I re-bedded our sailboat stanchions in 2003 and all deck hardware in 2006 and everything continues to hold solid to this day. I cringe a bit whenever I use 5200, knowing that it's going on forever, but you're right, you won't be doing it often. I think 5200 is a great product for redoing the nose and rear caps on rigs, where these fibreglass cones meet the main body of the RV. That's a very important joint and I'd feel a lot better with 5200 in there than whatever the factory used, covered by lap sealant. Perhaps we'll pass by each other one day in a marine supply store! Thanks for watching the video and offering your comment.

[@JohnCarter-r2g]

Is it self levelling also?

[@keninvic2627]

@@JohnCarter-r2g On a warm day it is self levelling. It is more of a permanent solution that I used on my solar panel mounts and front/rear caps. I also used Eternabond over all vent frames and front/rear caps with a small bead of 3M 5200 along the Eternabond edges. Some will poopoo Eternabond because it is so difficult to remove, but 14 years later my Eternabond is still doing the job with zero maintenance.

[@keninvic2627]

I am not only referring to the poor caulking choices, most of the hardware is plastic crap that will break in a couple years and need to be replaced with more crap. Just offer us stainless steel parts at more cost, better than throwing away parts every couple years.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for saying this. I completely agree with you.

[@bempey]

Great video. Thanks! After 50 years with many boats, bikes, and 55+ cars/ trucks I'm finally in the RV game, buying a 2011 trailer last year. I was totally following along until you dumped out the bag of screws and washers. I was thinking "what's going to seal those? Water will follow them in. Hasn't he heard of "metal roofing screws" with their captive synthetic-rubber washers, designed to last decades in the sun? But then I thought about their small diameter, and how steel can deform under pressure without losing strength, whereas polycarbonate, like glass, handles stress by cracking. Hence the "fender washers" that you used to distribute the force over a larger area. And then I read you explaination in the response to @chrisholds1 below, when he asked the question that I was thinking: how are you sealing the screw holes? Your explaination was detailed and excellent, and as an engineer and designer, I think it perfectly addresses both the immediate issue of sealing, and the longer term issue of inspection. Though you didn't explain the details of "why" in your attachment process in the video, I know that there are challenges with video length, the longer the video is then the fewer watch it, etc. and I don't have any suggestions for how to handle that. Sorry. I'm thinking that you could have a web-page that covers these things in more detail, and embeds the KZbin videos, and ideally would be monetized in some way but that's more work, too ... (mentally rambling off-topic). Thanks again for the great info and tips on better products. And also Thanks to all the commenters with more tips! And maybe I'll see you some day when we're riding through Ladysmith and stop for coffee. :)

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I enjoyed reading your remarks and appreciate you for making them. And I can sure understand why you were a bit stunned when you saw how I was using the screws and washers, wondering about sealing them. My biggest regret with that video was exactly what you're pointing out - not explaining why I was doing it that way and what I expected to achieve with the seal. As you would know with your boat experience, I was using my past 25 years of keeping our sailboat "dry" using this same technique. But I can't expect others to believe this if I don't explain myself - it naturally invites uncertainty. To know you are an engineer and designer and it makes sense to you, means a lot to me. Thank you for following it through to try to understand what I was doing. Your idea of a web-page to cover topics in more detail is intriguing. Thanks for the tip, I will remember this. Another person mentioned metal roofing screws as well, of which I'm not aware. I like the idea of the captive synthetic -rubber washer. I guess I was just following what I've always done on my sailboat. I agree that the smaller diameter may be a problem. Thanks again for having the interest and taking the time to comment. I find this kind of exchange very helpful and from a selfish point of view, I'm learning a great deal. In the end, we'll all hopefully benefit from sharing our respective experiences and knowledge. I'm going to be passing by Ladysmith this Thursday on my way to Nanoose Bay for a week or two of project work on our motorhome. If I didn't have our beast Monty with me and our Fiat in tow, I'd happily stop by our favourite bakery. Another time. It's a pretty town. Cheers, and thanks again!

[@Tipperary757]

Sadly I just did Dicor and butyl after heat gun removal of old stuff. Wish I had seen your vid first. Yours looks great!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Oh darn, we just missed each other. I'm going to continue to work my way around the roof fittings each year, removing old lap sealant and doing what I did on the skylight dome to each attachment - eventually redoing everything. They'll always be something on our roofs that we can redo, so I hope you will give my technique a try on something else. All the best, cheers!

[@TeriDuncan8049]

It's great that you use previous knowledge of marine skills for Rv applications. I'll have to remember to search outside the box for solutions! 😊

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I'm hoping you now have your Roadtrek - wasn't it last week that you were picking it up? You must be very excited! Now all the fun begins, and new adventures. You're going to become a pro at maintaining your new rig. 2002 was a good era for well built RV's, and Roadtrek is one of the best. Have fun, and please let me know if you ever want to talk about something to do with your rig. Happy to help. email: [e-mail]

[@TeriDuncan8049]

@@ThisOldRV2023 I will gladly reach out to you if I have a problem I can't solve! There was a hold up getting insurance card to the notary, so I'm actually picking it up today!!! Yes it's exciting, but I won't be ready to make more than short trips till next fall. Take care ❣️

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I'm very happy for you! Enjoy every moment, it's an exciting day!

[@David65702]

Good job. I just stripped and recaulked the whole roof on my 1995 Lance squire lite 185 I did much more than that, replaced all the lights and damn near anything plastic the UV rays killed that plastic. Repainted the whole thing made it look good put nice looking stripes on it. Man what a pain in the rear!! I'm still working on it. Used a chisel, putty knife razor knife and a grinder with a wire wheel on it to get rid of all the caulking, did use a heat gun also helped a lot. I'm sick of working it but I'm almost done. Thanks for the video.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for watching my video and explaining what you've done to your rig. That sounds like a lot of work, detailed work. I took note of what you used to remove all your caulking, I learned something. Thank you! Glad you're almost done, then you'll need another project. I just watched a couple of your videos about flying - you are a brave and skilled soul, I admire you. I tried hang gliding in the 70's, crashed and burned on my first flight, head injury. Please keep safe!

[@David65702]

@@ThisOldRV2023 No hang glider for me I'll stick with my Paramotor trike. Lots of info from other guys, I'm learning a lot. I think I'll hang out, Thanks.

[@christianwalter2939]

Very nicely done video I appreciate it. I also have done some roof ceiling repairs. The reason they put sealant around the screw heads is so there's no opportunity for liquid to get through there also. Make sure to put a dab of sealer on each one of the screws to seal around it. It is just positively sealed then

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for watching and for your comment. I appreciate your comment and I am going to top off the screw heads with sealant. I've been relying on a technique I've use on my sailboat for many years, where the sealant that oozes up and down through the hole when pressure is applied has been enough to form a nice, tight seal around the screw head and fender washer - leaving a clean look for a boat when lightly cleaned off. But many viewers have advised me to still top off the screw head with sealant to prevent, as you have kindly said, an opportunity for liquid to get in. I need to listen, it's an RV and you and others have experiences to share that I'd be foolish to ignore. Thank you!

[@bernardstevens3613]

Great Teaching Video! Thanks for sharing your expertise with us! Nice to know that DICOR isn't the only option!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Hi again, I'm happy you were watching this video and found it useful. I know I rambled on more than I should have, but I was hoping to accomplish just what you mentioned - a step by step process so others may learn. It's not a perfect process, we all have our own way of doing things, but it's something I'm comfortable with and wanted to share. You've made my day, thanks!

[@bruceanselm8546]

As usual, great video Bill. Informative and entertaining.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks, Bruce! I particularly like the backdrop, something I believe you have something to do with! Thank you for everything you do to support us working on Monty. And being my break buddy!

[@chrisholds1]

Did you need to put down any extra sealant around the screws? This was a terrific video, thanks for making it!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

It's a really good question. And thanks for your kind comment, I appreciate you telling me. About the screws - I squeezed extra sealant into the holes before fitting the flange to the roof top. I then ran a wide bead of sealant over these holes and along the entire line of the flange. When the flange was placed, the pressure naturally forced sealant around the flange base and when I turned the screws through the sealant Into the roof, the sealant oozed out but followed the screw into the wood structure below the roof line. It should form a nice tight bond around the screw and you know this when the sealant oozes out around the fender washer and screw head at the top. I then just wipe away the excess so it looks nice and clean. Some people recommend topping the screw head with an extra drop of sealant as extra insurance. There's no harm in doing so, but I don't think it's necessary. I've gained confidence using this sealing technique on my sailboat for years. In places where I can see the screw or bolt where it protrudes below deck, I know it's a tight seal all the way down when sealant is visible around the entire screw or bolt. The trick is to use quite a bit of sealant and then wipe away the excess. And on the top, if you see sealant around the screw head, the seal should be effective. I hope this helps. Thanks again for watching our video. Cheers!

[@hillustration]

I don't think it was too long, I enjoy hearing why people made the decisions they did. I think I would have gone over it with eternabond after the screws were in, but everyone needs to do what works for them. Thanks for the video.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for your support, I appreciate it. I'm glad I didn't ramble on too long for you. After reading so many comments with helpful tips, like you are suggesting, I'm shifting my thinking and will place a dab of sealant over the screw heads to make contact with the polycarbonate. I've resisted because I've had great success on my sailboat for many years - relying solely on the original seal around the screw head and fender washer with sealant that has oozed up. But the dab of insurance on the RV roof seems sensible. I have not used eternabond before, I understand it is an excellent product, but I have a full tube of sealant so this time, I'll use the sealant. I will take a look at eternabond another time. I must try it. Thanks!

[@lifequest7453]

When I had to put a new coating of elasometric seal on the rv roof, the manufacturer told me to RAISE the air con 3/4 on slats, and seal the slats with sealant, like it was part of the roof. you still use the foam seal but now it does not matter if the foam seal fails, water cannot get in. on the other openings, a 1/4 inch slat would be enough to drain water off. If you seal flat on the roof you are asking for water to find a way in.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

This sounds like a terrific fix, I like it. I've always been concerned with the dip created in our flexible fibreglass roof around the AC locations and I can understand how raising the fixing points will naturally draw water away from the opening. We're putting a lot of confidence in the foam seal barrier. And I think you're pointing out the same problem around points like this skylight dome that the video is about - building up the opening fixing point as though it's part of the roof would slope the water away nicely rather than pooling water in the low spots. I appreciate you for sharing all of this, thank you!

[@davidd6635]

You might have said this, but what about a drill size larger hole in polycarb skylight that size screws to secure. That way a slight bit of expansion available from hot and cold temps and wriggles of our RVs. Maybe less chance of cracking. Great a episode.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

It's a really good point and while I did mention in the video that both the skylight predrilled holes and the holes in the fibreglass roof need to be oversized, enough for the screw to easily drop through so there's no stress on the polycarbonate or fibreglass - I could have done a better job of explaining this point. I'm glad you're pointing it out here because I agree completely with you. I mentioned the need to so this to avoid future stress cracking, but you've taken it a step further by mentioning expansion from hot and cold temperatures that I didn't consider. Thank you! I'm glad you watched, hope you come back. Cheers!

[@farmermike9262]

As a carpenter , ive sealed and flashed many a roofs and windows etc and you are absolutely right!!! REBEL against the Dicor!!!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I know that my sealing technique may not be for everyone, but to know from an experienced carpenter that I'm not going in the wrong direction, has given me a boost. Thanks for watching and having the interest to write to say this. Much appreciated!

[@petitchenil]

First time viewer - I agree. I seal everything on my class A like I did on my 1961 wooden Chris Craft Connie. If the item and material holds up on a boat it should work good on a motorhome. Also for electrical connections - marine grade.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Welcome, I'm glad you found us. I'm completely with you using marine grade materials and having owned a classic Chris Craft, I know you must be a pro with a lot of experience. I love that era of boat, particularly boats made in the 60's and 70's. I just watched a glimpse of your Connie on your KZbin home page. We have a 1972 Islander sailboat that we still cherish and somehow keep afloat. You have lots of those around SF. Cheers!

[@gaziger007]

I use metal roof screws with a rubber washer under the metal washer. This forms a water tight seal against the acrylic of the skylight flange. I don't use sealant under the skylight. Instead I use butyl tape and then seal the screws/edge with a 100% solid self-leveling sealant. I've never had a call back.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

This sounds like a very effective seal. I appreciate you sharing this with me and other viewers whom I'm sure will benefit. It's comments like this, from experienced people like yourself with proven techniques, that help us all. Many thanks!

[@robertwagner8596]

thats what i was thinking for the screws

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for the supportive comment about the washer screws. I really must try this.

[@BobElder-vs1tn]

Love this video. You nailed how I feel about that old caulk. I love will be doing mine like yours when it’s time. Thanks for posting.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Oh good, I'm glad the video was useful and that you told me about your plans. I wasn't too sure how viewers would respond to this approach to sealing RV attachments and hearing from you has made my day. I hope this technique works well for you. Thanks for watching, and for your comment.

[@TKGP67]

Nice work. I will do the same next time I need to re-seal. If it works for boat applications then its going to work great for an rv. Thanks for posting such a helpful video!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I'm really happy you found it helpful. Thanks for telling me. The boat experience has helped me a lot, I've made so many mistakes along the way, but in the end I've come to the conclusion that you point out - do things to the standard of keeping a boat dry and nice looking, and everything should be just fine on the RV. 24 years ago a person who was responsible for sealing aircraft windows taught me how to seal deck attachments and ports on my sailboat. I still have that same sailboat, and it's still leak free. Well, sort of! I used the same technique he taught me on this motorhome skylight, so here's hoping! All the best, thanks again.

[@KoolBell4AU]

I always thought there was a better way. Thanks for making this video. Job well done.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I'm glad you found it helpful. Thanks for your kind comment. I wasn't too sure how well it would be received because it's not a common practice on RVs. But it's all I know so I went with it. It's reassuring to receive your message, thanks!

[@moepow8160]

It's nice to see old school or professional methods to repair something. You have to use modern materials, like a new cover, but the methods are your choice. I worked on aircraft, and you would never goop on tons of sealent unless you wanted to get fired. They squrt that sealant from a gun. It's fast, cheap, and easy. When I went on the roof of my new rv, the guy said, "Look at that seal. Nothing will get through that, " I said." You mean that bubblegum you spurted all over. You can never see what the plastic is doing underneath. You did a good job, and when your rv is in the scrap heap one day, that window will still keep out the water !!!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I'm inspired to read your comment, thank you! I felt a bit alone out there using this sealing technique, knowing it's not the norm. Knowing you worked on aircraft and describing the bubblegum as you have, takes me back to when I first learned how to seal ports on a sailboat I purchased in 2000. My teacher was a sailor friend who was an aircraft tech, responsible for sealing aircraft windows. He taught me all I know and told me, just as you have, that you never cover up seams with goop because you can't inspect and know what's going on underneath. He taught me that the seal has already been accomplished, without top coating with goop. I still have that boat, and think of him often. I have a lot of respect for people who work on aircraft - thank you!

[@rickl6697]

If you're removing dicor I use a heat gun and a 5-in-1 painters tool on our TPO roof . I replaced 9 sheets of plywood and removed EVERYTHING off the roof removed and replaced the TPO roof on our 2003 Newmar Dutch Star DP put on 2 new Fantastic fans, Bathroom skylight, all vent caps and reinstalled the two original ACs, removed and replaced 90 feet of termination bar with 540 screws holding it down. All I used was a 5-N-1 tool and a heat gun(just for removal.)

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Wow, if you were not pro when you began, and I suspect you are, you certainly were when you finished. What a project! I admire you for taking this on. It must be rewarding to know that you accomplished all of this on your own with results you can trust - and I get your point, using a simple tool and process to achieve the removal of all of these attachments. I have a heat gun, now I need to search for the 5 n 1 tool you've mentioned. Thank you for offering this information for me, and for all our viewers. Much appreciated. Well done!

[@rickl6697]

@@ThisOldRV2023 Yes I did it by myself (At age 69; my wife helped me roll out the TPO while I put down the adhesive). I had never done it before but watched several videos of other people tackling similar jobs. The biggest boast to my psyche that I could do it was a video series by T.R. Bolin where he reroofed his 2004 Newmar Dutch Star which is almost identical to our 2003. I did ours finishing in 1st Qtr 2020, just in time for Covid which meant we couldn't go anywhere due to most of the campgrounds shutting down. Lol, perfect timing on my part. I bought most of the supplies, TPO, termination bars, adhesives, butyl tape, new skylight directly from Newmar and they gave me some great advice about things to watch out for. I bought the 9 sheets of plywood and screws from a local lumber yard because I wanted to step up from 7mm to 1/2"(15/32). It's been 4 years and all is well. Even a lot of new RVs don't have enough adhesive holding down the front 1/3 of the roof(TPO or filon, which is thin fiberglass. A thicker gel coat shouldn't ever have that problem) AZ Expert channel has a lot of videos showing failures of roofing applications. Safe travels and enjoy the journey. P.S. It's a 5 in 1 painters tool at Home depot. TR Bolin introduced me to that one. You could also probably use the plastic chisels like I bought at harbour freight and on amazon that I used to remove the Diamond shield off the front of the RV that had started to crack all over. Did that job in early 2023. Watched a lot of videos. The best part of KZbin. You just have to separate the wheat from the chaff.

[@robertwagner8596]

good job bud

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I can see that you are a fan of KZbin University. I am too. There are so many videos about anything you can think of. As you say, watch enough of them so you can separate the wheat from the chaff, find the common thread that works. You took on a massive and complicated project, I really admire you and your wife. I watch AZ Expert as well, he has a lot to offer. Thanks for the tip of the 5 in 1 tool and the plastic chisels. I bet your Dutch Star is in great shape. I really appreciate you sharing your story, I've learned something from it. Safe and fun travels!

[@davidpatrick1813]

Good job…. I like the tape and so on idea. Clean and effective. I am a Dicor user and like your idea to try. A tip that I do… I only cover each screw individually. I use putty tape between the cover and roof. I never ever ever use silicoln…

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for your message, for putting your faith in this idea. I think you'll be happy. And I like your tip about covering each screw individually. Extra insurance, right? Yes, let's keep away from that silicon stuff. Bye for now.

[@mistyhightower2730]

I found your video very interesting and informative. Thanks for sharing 😊

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I'm really glad you found it helpful. Thank you for telling me. I hope you have a pleasant weekend, bye for now.

[@Pushyhog]

sand, brush on gel coat, sand , buff. So why not opening vent above shower? great job

[@ThisOldRV2023]

It's a good thought. I went right to a solid skylight because that's what was there, I didn't think of a vented skylight, which is a very good idea, because there is a powered opening vent in the bathroom within 14 inches of the skylight. It works well. But good thought, thanks. And thanks for watching and your kind words.

[@pinepaul9920]

Your work is first rate. Thanks for the great video!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

What a nice comment to read as my computer opened up. Your words mean a lot to me, thank you. I'm glad you watched the video, hope you stay around. Cheers!

[@jamesbeaman5944]

Excellent idea. I used Sika Flex on my boat. Great material!!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

It really is, I agree with you. I re-bedded all my stanchions and other deck fittings, including new ports, on our sailboat years ago with Sikaflex and they're still holding. Great stuff for boats. Glad you watched this video and commented, thanks!

[@timyogerst4349]

Butyl tape takes longer to apply than the gooey self-leveling lap sealant in a caulk gun. Tape must also be evenly compressed, so mind the torque and even spacing of the fasteners. Many liquid sealants won't stick or may even damage the integrity of EPDM roofing, so double-check that it's a safe substance first. The area must be CLEAN for the best chance of repairs to hold. While a boat may get worse water exposure, its not likely to experience the racking and twisting that an RV gets, whether from highway wind, or uneven stabilizer jacks. Remember it's only a box on wheels thats designed to be lightweight (not structurally sound). A boat is a streamlined vessel with strong ribbing to limit deforming in the waves and wind. So remember to use sealants that will remain flexible!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thank you, your explanation and caution is very helpful. It's bang on. I value what you've said and I hope many viewers read it as well.

[@appa561]

Motsenbocker’s Lift Off 41116 Silicone Latex Caulk and Foam Sealant Remover is a great resource to remove that old caulking... stuff works wonders. Apply, wait a few minutes and start wiping away with a paper towel. Water-based so fair easier to remove any residue, unlike WD-40 and the like.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

What a find, thank you! I've written this down so I can try to find it. Hopefully I can find it in Canada. I'd like to get rid of all the old caulking on our motorhome and replace the seam joints with marine sealant / adhesive, just dreading the process of removing of the old stuff. Your product sounds like the answer. Really appreciate that you've offered this information. Cheers!

[@jonc67uk]

Water will wick down the screws where they penetrate a gasket or sealant bed over time unles they are also sealed. I've had to replace a couple done this way. I had to replace the wood carcass and lining because of the slow nature of the leaks just for fun.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for explaining your experience. It's helpful. While I haven't added excess sealant over the screw head and washer / gasket on my sailboat before (stanchions, deck fittings & ports), after maintaining it this way for many years with success, your comment is hitting home that I may be having water issues below deck and not being aware of them because of the slow nature of a leak. I know we're talking RV's and not boats here, but it's my experience with my sailboat that led me to follow the same sealing method on our motorhome. So, why wouldn't I seal the screw heads with a spot of sealant, as extra insurance? I really appreciate you chiming in, thank you!

[@billhughes4731]

Informative and funny... I'm glad I stumbled across your channel

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Really glad you found us too! We're trying our best to balance a bit of humour and light hearted fun with offering helpful RV travelling tips, so please, we want you to feel comfortable letting me know if we (usually me) fall off track. I'm currently recovering from knee replacement surgery, but once I'm up and about we'll be continuing with our videos. We hope you come back. Cheers!

[@jerrytalley802]

I think if we used butyl tape underneath, then touched each screw head, in theory, it should not leak. Maybe a thin bead around the flange as added intrusion protection? It will be neat to see how well this repair holds up.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I think so too - what you describe should work well and it would be much neater than spreading lap sealant broadly over the flange. And, it would likely be far easier to remove in the future, than the Sikaflex marine sealant / adhesive that I used. Humm.... I think I like your idea better, wish I knew you a week ago!

[@On-down-the-road]

I bought a 2007 camper nice unit well taken car of. I inspected the roof and factory sealent was crusty breaking in chunks. I removed all of it. I did not find any leeks. I spent a small fortune on eternabond tape. And seeled everything with it. After living in it for 6 months, no leeks, and the tape is just as i put it down. It did not shrivel up and continues to maintain its bond. A homeowner told me about this tape. When i ask gow well does it last, he said it was 6 years so far, and it hadn't shriveld up and looked new, except slightly brown, yellow, color from white.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for telling me about your experience with this tape. I've never used it. It sounds durable. I have been trying to figure out how to re-do the front and end cap seals, where the fibreglass caps meet the main body of our motorhome. I want to strip off the old caulking, but it's not the best example of where I can use the marine sealant effectively without lifting and cleaning out under the aluminum strip. The tape you're mentioning sounds like a possible solution. I may use it. Thanks! And thanks for watching the video and commenting, I appreciate you doing this.

[@voytek2099]

Looks clean and a job well done. What did you do in the past before you retired? I will be waiting for the next video.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Hello my Nanaimo friend! Thanks for watching and for your kind comment. As for my past - I did something far removed from tinkering on this old RV. I was a hospital administrator. See you again next week.

[@ezekielcade4205]

For future projects, an oscillating tool with a scraper attachment is much quicker and cleaner

[@ThisOldRV2023]

It's a great idea, thank you. I still have other hard crusty seams to redo and I will use this kind of tool in the future. I certainly do seem to choose the hard way of doing things, and I always appreciate ideas that will help. Many thanks!

[@rachelkelly7117]

You did a great job, and thank you for the info 😊

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thank you, for your kindness and support. It means a lot. I hope the info was helpful. All the best!

[@yachtsteve]

I have always thought that caulking, or sealants are overused. The one that drives me the craziest is the silicone, everybody uses it for everything, and there's a few situations where it's really good and most of the other applications where it's not. And then you mentioning how building up your caulkin actually provides a ridge which becomes a water retainment feature for supplying small crack a constant source of water ready to leak through when the temperature is just right😊😊

[@ThisOldRV2023]

You sure nailed it, thank you! You describe the water pooling effect perfectly and I'm sure how you describe it was the way it happened. And I agree with you about silicone. I hate coming across that stuff in seams and having to somehow scrape it out. There always seems to be residue left over. Let's put that stuff in a hot air ballon basket along with lap sealant and send them into space! Really appreciate you watching, and commenting.

[@yachtsteve]

@@ThisOldRV2023 worse than what we already mentioned is the window or skylight or whatever that's leaking, so rather than stripping it back and doing it again right, more sealant is added. How can more sealant over sealant that's already failing be expected to work

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Exactly! Completely removing, if possible, the "whatever" and resealing it properly will save a lot of aggravation. I had almost fallen into the trap of simply adding more lap sealant until I woke up! Enjoy our chats, thanks!

[@DANIELROMERO-cv3tu]

Great video Job well done I like your coach 👍🏼👍🏼

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I'm really glad you enjoyed the video and told me your thoughts. This is kind of you. You have brightened my day! Thank you.

[@BonFShaw]

To avoid gouging when using a chisel - turn the chisel over, bevel side down. The bevel is there to keep this from happening.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I'm embarrrassed that you've had to tell me this - this old chisel was passed down to me by my Dad. He would be very upset with me! Thanks for watching, and I appreciate your comment.

[@vincetoscano7018]

Nice Job!! I thought there has to be something better to seal the fixture on the roof. What was the paint you used on your roof?

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for your kind comment, I appreciate this. The paint I used was Rustoleum Topside Paint. I bought it on Amazon. It comes with a primer and I wish I had applied two coats of primer rather than one. The primer nicely fills in light cracks and gives a solid, clean surface for the topside coat. It's easy to roll and tip. I hope this helps.

[@douggalea6017]

Great video, but I wondered why t 18:53 he tedious work of scraping was not done from a ladder inside the RV.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Well, that's a very good idea! I read your comment to Micheila and we both laughed, because it never occurred to me at the time. It would have certainly been safer and quite comfortable. Sometimes you just need another person to point out the obvious. Thanks for watching, and for the suggestion.

[@JahRootsRadio]

Sika Flex is GOOOOOOOD STUFF. I’ve used it a ton. It’s amazing

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Hey, that's great, I'm happy you use it too. A lot of people have not heard of it before. All the best!

[@jake-mv5oi]

Interesting. I'm shortening a schoolbus for use as a toy hauler and used 3M 5200 fast dry between the roof panels prior to riveting. Hopefully that will keep the water out for good.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

That sounds like a fun project. 5200 is an amazing sealant / adhesive. I'm sure it will keep you watertight. I use it a lot on our sailboat, but only for those attachments where I need a forever seal and adhesion. I trust it completely for things like attaching an underwater transducer that I can't afford to have come off or to leak. It never has, after 12 years. For those items that I want to be able to remove sometime in the future, I use 4200 which is a little gentler. I suspect you're never going to want to remove your roof panels and in that case, it looks like you made a good choice. Wishing you leak free happiness! Thanks for watching our video. I wish you all good things with your school bus project.

[@MarkdWallis]

I learned some new tricks...thanks Bill!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Great, I'm glad some of it was useful, Mark. Always good to hear from you, thanks for staying with us. M says hi.

[@wornoutwrench8128]

Looks good Bill. Time to move on to the next project?

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Glad you saw this Brian, thanks for watching. Yes, time to start an inside project - finishing the wallpapering job I started two years ago. I'm driving back tomorrow. I may see you this week? I hope so.

[@LarryAdams-y7o]

When making a repair such as this, I use a heat gun and an oscillating saw (DeWalt) with a knife blade that you can push thru. they make a blade for a Sawzall as well, but not as easy to work in close quarters or while laying on your belly on an Camper roof!!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for offering this advice. Much appreciated. I do have a heat gun that I will use in the future, but I don't have an oscillating saw. Sounds like a good Christmas gift idea, I'd like one. I know I used a raw and unsophisticated technique for removing this chalking and it's meaningful for me and other viewers to hear of other approaches that have worked well. Many thanks!

[@markerdmann6374]

What about the posibility of water entering under the screw and fender washer? Did you put a dab of sealant next to the screw before putting the scres in?

[@ThisOldRV2023]

It's a good question and observation. Yes, before running the main bead of sealant along the flange line on the roof, I pumped sealant into each hole. The pressure of the flange on the main bead of sealant naturally pushed sealant through the top of the flange hole, and when I tightened the screws, sealant oozed up and under the fender washer and screw head. I wiped off any excess, and this is why it may look like there is no sealant around the screw head or fender washer. This is the method I have used successfully on my sailboat for many years. When I thru bolted into the boat deck and looked down below, in the cabin of the boat where I could see the deckhead, I always verified that the sealant was sufficient to cover the entire bolt (or screw) as it entered the hole, and that the sealant followed the bolt or screw through the hole and also oozed through to the top of the bolt or screw. It was always a very secure seal, all the way through the hole and up to the screw or bolt head. While I can't look into the under roof of our motorhome to verify the extent of the sealant, I expect the same will happen as with our boat. The trick is using a lot of sealant and being prepared to waste a bit and clear away the excess before tidying up the seam, so it looks professional and clean. I hope this helps.

[@rylie1235]

You mentioned using a Marine paint on the roof previously and you had some leftover to touch up around the skylight. Can you share what that paint was? Looking at painting my 2001 Country Coach Affinity. Love the old Beavers and Country Coach Motorhomes. Built like tanks.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Happy to share this with you. I used Rustoleum Marine Topside Paint & Primer. The primer comes separately, they both come in 1 quart size. I bought ours through Amazon, but I notice that Home Depot carries it as well. Both the primer and topside coating go on nicely with a roller and a brush to tip it off. I love the Country Coach models and that's what we were considering before buying our Beaver. It was just a bit larger than we wanted, and the 30' Beaver fit the bill nicely. I think you'll be happy with the paint. I found it to be less expensive than other marine brands. All the best.

[@rogersavoie4570]

I just subscribed to your channel, thank you for this fellow Canadian. What d you think of Eternabond for sealing a skylight?

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Hello fellow Canadian! Thanks for subscribing. I'll do my best to keep you interested and ask you, Canadian to Canadian, to tell me when I get off track or start to lose you. I'm not qualified to say much about Eternabond because I've never used it. It strikes me as a good fix for an immediate leak situation, something to have on hand for emergencies. But, I have seen others use it as a more permanent seal over existing sealant jobs. Personally, I don't like to cover up any seam with either tape or lap sealant, because you can't see what's happening underneath. Although, I believe Eternabond has a clear tape that would allow some inspection. I guess I'm old school - I prefer a good marine sealant that oozes out when you bring two surfaces together, especially a skylight flange and roof surface, and you can see the extent of the seal around the flange including around the screw heads - and keep an eye on it over the years. While this method will take some work to remove if you had to, I wonder how difficult Eternabond would be to remove? Hopefully, other viewers with experience with this tape will see our chat and chime in to help us both out. I'd like to learn more about it too. Cheers!

[@rogersavoie4570]

@@ThisOldRV2023 I bought a truck slide in camper not long ago that is all sealed up with Eternabond, so sealed up in fact that it was too much. To remove this stuff which seals great actually you have to heat it up, peel the outer membrane, heat up the residue to remove the bulk of it, then I proceeded with mineral oil and WD 40 to remove the rest. It is not eternal but close to it! Lol.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Whoa ... it does sound lasting! I love your last sentence. It sounds like I should have roll of this stuff on hand for an emergency. Thanks for telling me about it. Bye for now, cheers!

[@explorer8888]

Nice video, nice work and above all, very nice finish!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thank you for your kind words. I hope you don't mind that I looked at several of your videos that show your homemade off road camping trailer build. You have amazing skills. Precision, quality and creative work. I am humbled that you have complimented me because I highly respect and admire your abilities and the work you have done. Thank you!

[@-_.._._--_.-.-_-_-_-...-.-]

The reason for the goopy stuff for rv's specifically is because the mfg's use very thin roofing materials that expand a lot in the hot sun and need lots of the goopy stuff to stay sealed properly, stainless steel roofs come to mind.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Ahh... I get it. Makes sense and I guess more is better in this case. I can imagine the heat buildup on the roof of these things. I appreciate you mentioning this, it helps me. Cheers!

[@mitchellwnorowski6747]

I was 8 yrs old at the 1959 nyc boat show that had a marinetex display featuring a patched lapstrake dinghy.

[@mitchellwnorowski6747]

3m 5200 woyld be a good 4ever choice as well

[@ThisOldRV2023]

That is really interesting! Wow, for you to remember that is amazing. I had no idea it's been around since 1959. I was assuming it was a relatively new product. You and I were born in the same year, and I don't think I'd remember something like that. You're doing much better than me! Thanks for sharing this, much appreciated.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Yes, that stuff is amazing. I have used 5200 on our sailboat, but only for things that I don't anticipate removing for a long time, or, I want to make sure they never come apart. It's sure a strong adhesive. 4200 is a little more gentle for removing. I was searching for 5200 not long ago while in Mexico. The marine shop wanted $136 USD for one tube! I passed. You're right, 3m is a good choice. Thanks for the comment, and for watching.

[@grimthreeper4112]

I woulda have used the washers with the rubber back . Much better seal . Nice work !

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Yes, I agree. I never thought of this and I'm going to look for some for future projects. I like that idea. Thanks for the tip, and for your kind comment.

[@missingegg]

Roofers use those on metal roofs with exposed fasteners. They work great, but they do have a limited lifespan, because the rubber washer is exposed to the elements. But "limited" can still be quite a few years, perhaps 20.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Yes, for sure about the life span. And I'll be gone by then and Monty will likely be in the scrap yard!

[@robertwagner8596]

im currently studing rvs as i am looking to buy my first, but for this repair I think I would have tightend the screws down in a sequence from the center out to conform to the low spots in the roof,am i right or wrong or does it even matter?...new subscriber here also,thanks for sharing

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Welcome, and thanks for subscribing to our channel. I hope you won't be disappointed as you begin your search for your first RV. I'm glad you're here. I believe you are absolutely right about how to correctly screw down this skylight. I think it does matter but hopefully, there was enough flex in this skylight flange that it went down uniformly enough to be well sealed. I chuckled when I read your message because while filming this skylight project and placing the screws, I remember thinking I'm all over the map with the sequence of tightening the screws and that I should pay attention - better to start in the centre and work outwards - which I didn't do as you respectfully point out. You are the only one to recognize or at least say something about it - you've caught me in the act so I'd say you are well on your way to being an effective RV owner! I really do appreciate you making the comment as it will help to keep me on track and help others. All the best on your RV search. Cheers! Bill

[@seankirkpatrick8171]

The screws will need to be sealed in my opinion (I’m no expert). On a vertical surface you might not need it, but on the roof I’m pretty sure you’ll need some type of sealant to keep water from wicking down to the wood.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

This is a good observation and one that a few others have questioned. I can sure understand why. What I'm going on is my experience with my sailboat over the past 24 years. I've re-bedded all deck fittings and ports using this process and so far, I haven't experienced any wicking of water below decks. The marine sealant that oozes up the screw hole forms a nice, clean bond as you screw downward, effectively keeping water out the length of the hole. Picturing it, when squeezing sealant into each hole, the sealant naturally seals the hole around the screw and oozes up to the base of whatever you're attaching - and downward to completely fill the hole. I then simply wipe off the excess sealant that has oozed out from the screw head, so it looks clean and tidy - just as you see on most boats. While it looks clean and you'd think there is nothing to stop water from penetrating downward, there actually is a complete seal that should last for years. This has been my experience. When I bought our motorhome, I thought - why wouldn't this same process work on an RV roof? That's why I did so and posted the video. Having said all of this, there is no harm by placing a small amount of sealant around the top of each screw head, as extra insurance. I get what you're saying. I personally don't think it's necessary and it always looks a bit crappy. I'd never do that on my boat. On the other hand, it's on an RV roof and who's going to see it. I think a lot of people will follow what you're suggesting and I understand that. Thanks for participating in the discussion, it's all helpful. And who knows, you may find me topping off each screw head with sealant one day!

[@timyogerst4349]

Add washers with neoprene on the bottom. They are used for metal roof trim and the neoprene deforms and seals under slight pressure.

[@montanadan2524]

​@@ThisOldRV2023 I do all the work on my sailboat and RV and agree with the comment above that you should seal/protect the screws and fender washers to complete the job. I learned a great trick from my brother a professional roofer. Once you are done sealing the skylight, use what's left of the tube by placing a dolup on each screw and washer so they are protected from sun and shed water. You are going to end up throwing out the left over sealent in a month or two anyway so may as well get the extra protection.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Great idea, thanks. I'm not aware of these washers but will find some to keep in my supply container, to use next time. Really appreciate your help, it's a useful tip.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Ok, you've sold me on this. I haven't done this in the past but I can understand the extra insurance it provides. And you're absolutely right, I do have marine sealant left over, I've keep it taped off but it won't last long. I'm going topside to apply those dolups!

[@GaryBoyd02]

I agree 100% I too like to use a hand tool for that tactile feeling how exactly the screw in gripping into the wood and also to prevent over tightening that poly carbonate skylight. Nice work. Also if in a year or so a slight leak develops around a screw you can switch it out and reexpoxy the hole. Worst comes to worse you put eterna bond over it all. Ok gotta go now get your BP meds..LOL

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks, you explain things in a really clear way and I'm glad you're mentioning the benefit of being able to clean up a screw hole if necessary - because you'll be able to see and inspect it. I'm glad you commented, it will help people and you say it better than I ever could. Many thanks!

[@danielreynolds178]

😂😂😂and then it got too hot and i ran away. I feel ya. I live in SouthEast Texas. Thanks for the video.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

You're most welcome, glad you watched it, thanks! I bet you're better at lasting longer in your southeast Texas heat than we west coast Canadians are when the heat spikes a bit here. You'd laugh at us, we give up early and run for ice!

[@leshenderson5746]

Try using a hair dryer or heat gun and it WILL come off way easier!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Well, now I feel kind of stupid because I do have a heat gun. I will try this next time. I think part of me is a little apprehensive with heat, knowing I have overheated surfaces in the past. I suspect the low setting would have worked well. Thanks for the tip, and for watching!

[@adaycj]

Also put away the wood working tools and use a proper putty knife. I can peel all the self leveling dicore, even off of a crappy thin membrane roof without damage. Also a magnet or a good stud finder can find the screws if needed.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Ok, I got it, no more chisels! I'll pull out my crappy putty knives from now on. Cheers!

[@jerrytalley802]

I use a small 12 volt drill with a bit, run it 90% in on all, come back and finish with hand held screwdriver. Much agreed to be careful and don’t strip.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

This sounds like a good combination, it would sure speed things up, make it easier and in the end, allows you to feel the finishing touch. Thank you.

[@garywells3874]

You're right, look at any boat in the water and you won't find any RV lap sealant holding all the hatches down in a climate way worse than an RV will ever see.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for seeing it this way. This is what drove me to question this lap sealant stuff and I laughed at the thought of what boats would look like if the boating industry followed this practice. It would be fun to dress up a boat in a marina with lap sealant as a joke, and watch the reaction of people passing by! This is the child in me. Thanks for being with me on this one, it means a lot!

[@garywells3874]

Having built my 40’ sailboat I now turn to places like West Marine when looking for items for my RV, cargo trailer conversion.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Perfect, I do too. We don't have any West Marine's on Vancouver Island anymore, but I turn to a local marine store in my hometown that helped me refit my aging 36' sailboat. I haven't ventured into an RV supply store for a long time. Happy sailing, and RVing.

[@garywells3874]

Calm seas may friend.

[@johncunningham4820]

Great Job Sir . A bit of " Attention to Detail " goes a LONG WAY .

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks so much! I tend to be a bit over the top with making tidy seams. I must have OCD! Hoping not, but I sure appreciate your kind words. Thanks for watching!

[@bigdaddysshop8180]

I like to take aluminum strips and put on top of the flange. That way when you screw it down it put even pressure all the way around. I'd also raise it a 1/4 of an inch by bond a piece of fiberglass or aluminum to the roof and clamping it before you put the cap on. Just my 2 cents worth

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I understand completely what you're saying and I think they are great ideas. They make sense, forming a tight, secure seal. I especially like your idea of raising the edge with a bonded piece of fibreglass before securing the cap. Thanks for offering your ideas, I enjoy learning from others and it's helpful.

[@Off-GridLife54]

Nice work sir!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thank you! Words like yours make it all worthwhile, I really appreciate you watching and commenting. Bye for now.

[@davidlindquist3113]

Looks good Bill!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks, David! You're the pro, the guy I learn from, so for you to say it looks good, I'm over the top! Cheers my friend.

[@michaelburke5750]

How about using a Fein Multimaster with a gasket blade. Use a piece of aluminum flashing under the blade to keep the blade from burning the gel coat. This is what I used on all of my boats. The vibrating cutting tools have really come down in price, and they can perform many different operations like cutting, sanding, and polishing.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I really appreciate you taking the time to write to me to offer this information. It's very helpful, and something I have never used before. It sounds like an ideal tool to use, time for me to research and buy one. You've given me a nice head start, thank you!

[@astrorad2000]

Nice video. You remind me of an old guy I know...me! LOL

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks for watching the video and telling me. Let's stick together as old guys, it's not that bad, and I bet you're better looking than I am! Cheers!

[@chuckd3578]

Great informative video. Thank you!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

It's kind of you to write and tell me this. Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful. All the best!

[@jerrytalley802]

I see you have a fiberglass roof, most newer roofs are thin membrane. Nice, careful install.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Yes, I like the fibreglass roof and it's surprisingly thick. I guess it was the era (1997) when fibreglass was being readily used, resins were not too expensive at that time. I wish now that I had explained more strongly in this video that the removal technique I was using should never be tried on the thin membrane roofs of today that you're mentioning. So much easier to rip through. Thanks for watching and for your kind words.

[@jerrytalley802]

You need to warm that stuff up, take a flat dull putty knife, scrape the stuff between screws so you can remove screws. Dull flat blade to work under the rim, gently remove it. Warming helps a bunch too. I changed my dollar store fart fan to a fantastic type fan on a membrane roof and no damage, but the dicor wasn’t hard like that either, thanks

[@ThisOldRV2023]

The way you describe this process is perfect! Methodical, careful and using the right tools. I can tell you're a pro. Next time, I will not film myself doing such a goofy job of removing the old skylight. But then again, I wouldn't learn from people like you who have excellent techniques to share. Thanks for watching and for contributing your thoughts.

[@jerrytalley802]

School of hard knocks. My Dad built everything, bought almost nothing. Our first wood stove was a hand me down, small coal burning pot belly stove from the depression era CCC camp. When the wood stove craze was here late 70’s I think, we bought a kit for a papa bear stove, welded it up, used it 35 years and I still have it in my garage. You did fine, just chisels are really sharp and would dig in anything they touched. If everyone did everything perfectly, nobody would watch or comment, lol

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Sorry, I just picked up your message today - missed it earlier. Love your story. Glad you still have the stove, that's a keeper. And I promise, no more chisels on an RV roof! All the best.

[@anthonyhitchings1051]

There were no screws in our 2003 Aliner skylight flanges.. only the adhesive held the skylight in place

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I like that, a lot. I suppose I could have done the same with this Sikaflex adhesive / sealant, having just filled the previous holes before fitting the new skylight. Why drill holes if you don't need them - ok, next time! I appreciate your comment, and that you watched the video. Thanks!

[@RVWagginTails]

Great info! I just had to add a tube of Dicor and was thinking, there HAS to be a better way. #jealousofyourroof Also, WD40 is like Duct Tape. No end to what it can do!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Oh that's funny, you sound just like me when I did that last year - before rebelling this year with my marine Sikaflex. And you're right, with duct tape and WD 40, there isn't much you can't fix. Glad you watched our video and made your comment. We think alike! I just looked at your channel and subscribed. You both do a great job, and Denver & Annie too! We're on different sides of the continent (you in Indiana and we on Vancouver Island in British Columbia, Canada, but you never know, we may pass each other one day. We hope to do a circular journey before we get too old, beginning on the west coast of Canada, across Canada, down the eastern seaboard of the USA, across the southern part of the USA and north back to British Columbia via the west coast. For now, we do as you're doing, home based during part of the year and then hitting the road (when the weather becomes crappy on the west coast). All the best, safe and happy travels.

[@davidnestico932]

Next time try a heat gun to loosen the sealant.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

You know, I was about to use my heat gun and resisted, because I didn't trust myself with maintaining the right level of heat, risking damage to the roof. I guess I'm getting too timid in my old age. Having gone through this, next time I will take your advice and use my heat gun. I think you're absolutely right. Thanks for watching, and for the useful tip.

[@MelvinStevens-ek2zz]

Thank you teachering how seal it the right way

[@ThisOldRV2023]

You're most welcome and while I believe in this method, some may say it's not the only way and I'm sure there are other effective techniques as well. I just like this one. I'm glad you do too. Thanks for watching.

[@jamesshelleywijnhamer19]

Were you able to go through how to mix and apply marine tex?

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Oh shoot, sorry. I know I missed showing the mixing method in the video. I ran into problems around the time I was doing this and I couldn't capture it well on camera. The next time I use marine tex I will show the mixing method. In the meantime, if you are using it, here's what I do. A cut up plastic milk carton, about a 4" square section, makes a simple and useful mixing platform for the marine tex. Wearing gloves, use a popsicle stick to remove the amount you need of white resin from the jar provided in the package. Place this blob in the centre of the plastic milk carton section that you've cut up. Using the hardener provided in the package, drop the hardener onto the white resin blob to a ratio of 5 to one. 5 parts resin to one part hardener. Just estimate the right amount when you're dropping the hardener onto the resin, the mixture is quite forgiving. If you're in a hot climate, you can get away using a little less hardener. Mix it really well with the popsicle stick. Use the popsicle stick to apply the mixture to whatever you're working with. While it does sand and scrape off once cured, it's best to not leave too much of a ridge because it dries to an extremely hard surface. Make a nice smooth finish, as best you can. And, you don't want to waste too much because it's expensive. Best to make small amounts and use it up, rather than have some left over. I always have a bundle of cut up milk cartons available and a package of popsicle sticks. Please remember to use a fresh popsicle stick every time you need to dig out more resin from the container. And use a fresh plastic container section each time. If there is even just a fleck of hardener on your popsicle stick from when you were mixing, it will ruin your resin in the container. It will become stiff and you can't work with it. Once it's hardened, you can use a sander or scraper to form your surface. Please use a mask, it's dreadful stuff. I hope this helps.

[@Stevemcqueen808]

Thank you Mr. Lahey

[@ThisOldRV2023]

You are most welcome! I think!!

[@Stevemcqueen808]

@@ThisOldRV2023 haha there is a character from "the trailer park boys" series. To me, you sound like him a bit. Great character on the show, even better person in life. RIP Mr Lahey

[@ThisOldRV2023]

That is funny! I do know that show and character and he's what I was hoping you meant - I just wasn't sure. He was a great character so I'm taking that as a compliment. I've also been told I look and act like Inspector Clouseau on the Pink Panther. I guess I'm just not normal. Nice chatting with you, thanks for the touch of humour. Cheers!

[@rogerstarkey5390]

I've seen a build using a double sided Butyl tape and roofing screws with a built in sealing washer to seal and spread the load.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

It sounds like this would be an effective seal. I've never worked with Butyl tape and I sure like the idea of a built in sealing washer. Thanks for sharing this information, it's interesting and helpful to me and I'm sure for others.

[@timsteinkamp2245]

I was dismayed when I bought my used motorhome. All of the windows that were sealed when installed had a bead of silicone around each window. Even along the bottom. I had to go around and scrape all of that off. People actually believe that every year we need to go around and seal those windows along with any other attachments on the wall. The seal is under the attachment.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Exactly, you nailed it! I can feel your frustration having to scrape all the silicone away when it's absolutely not necessary. You've put into clear straight forward words what I was trying to point out in the video - that the seal is made once you bring the two surfaces together, under the attachment point - and layering additional stuff like silicone or lap sealant over top of this edge is useless. I'm with you my friend. Thanks for watching and for your meaningful comment.

[@rickl6697]

Did you not seal the heads of the screws? Good luck

[@ThisOldRV2023]

This is a good question and a logical one. I regret that I didn't show this part of the process in the video. The heads of the screws are actually well sealed, it just doesn't look like it from the images. I used a process that I learned from an aircraft mechanic and fellow sailor, who was responsible for sealing aircraft windows. He taught me how to seal deck attachments and ports on my sailboat 24 years ago, and I've been doing it ever since. I still have the sailboat and it remains leak free. Before I brought the skylight flange and the fibreglass roof together, you can see that I placed a wide bead of sealant along the flange line on the rooftop. What I didn't show is before making the wide bead, I squeezed sealant into each hole and covered it all with the wide bead of sealant. When the two sections came together, and stainless screws with large fender washers were applied, the sealant was naturally forced downward with the screw and upward under the screw head and fender washer. I then wiped the excess away, leaving a nice, clean appearance as you would want on a boat. Following this process on my sailboat, I have found that the sealant follows the screw all the way into the roof cavity, forming a complete and tight seal in the hole, and the screw head is nicely sealed at the top. It just doesn't look like it is and that's the trick. You have to use quite a lot of sealant and be prepared to wipe off the excess. But this is the point of the video - that excess sealant isn't necessary over the screws heads and fender washers, just as lap sealant isn't necessary over the flange seam - because the sealing process have already been accomplished. I hope this makes sense. I appreciate you asking, because it is a good question that needs to be clarified. Many thanks.

[@jamielynch4618]

Must be from New York,, I detect a little bit of Irish rougue accent. Top of the day to you Sir.😂

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I'd love to be an Irish person from New York, two places I admire. Sorry, I'm Canadian, born and raised in British Columbia. I could have fun with this accent thing, thanks for mentioning it. And happy to have you with us. Top of the day to you too, my friend.

[@Oilerrocker]

Great job!! Awesome video

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thank you! Hearing this from you means a lot to me. I wasn't too sure how this video would be received - I'm not very polished and I tend to do things the hard way, but in the end I hoped some people might see the value in this method of sealing. You've made it all worth while. All the best!

[@joeg7443]

Interesting method. One question, how easy or difficult is it to remove the marine sealant when you have to change the skylight? They can break for various reasons, also other roof fixtures. Difficulty of that might be the reason. Note: I'm an RV tech.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

It's a very good question. You're the first one to ask me this - I bet you're a good RV tech. My experience has been positive over 24 years of using this method and Sikaflex sealant adhesive on my sailboat. I first applied it in 2000 when all ports needed re-sealing. I replaced these ports with new ones in 2015 and had no trouble removing the old sealant and ports. It did take time, but it wasn't messy or gooey. I use a very sharp slim blade to cut the seal and break away the fixture, whether it's a port or deck fitting, and continue to use a sharp blade for most of the removal. It tends to cut away in strands. I can never remember having a difficult time removing any fitting that I've sealed with this sealant adhesive. Some boaters will use 3M 4200 or 5200 on their seals. Now, this is difficult stuff. I would only use the 5200 on a forever fitting, like an underwater transducer. 4200 is a little more gentle. I like to stick with the different Sikaflex blends, easier to use and remove. I hope this helps, and I'm glad you asked.

[@davidmcgee2126]

And you think RVs are expensive now I’m not saying I agree with how sloppy RVs are put together but you spent more time on a skylight than they spend building the whole unit (slight exaggeration) The manufacturers roll the dice on the roof and odds are they make more money the way they are built. Why a lot of things are built the way they are.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

For sure, I agree completely. They couldn't afford to keep me on staff, I'd bring their assembly line to a halt with my slow moving, plodding method and they'd go broke very quickly. I even drive my wife nuts! I think you've perfectly answered the question as to why manufacturers use the methods they do. Appreciate you doing this.

[@jamielynch4618]

Great job and great Video

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thank you! I'm glad you watched, sorry I wandered a lot during the video.

[@chugs1232]

Very informative thank you for this

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Great, I'm glad you found this helpful. And I appreciate you telling me so. Cheers!

[@jameslanenga7915]

being in a shower ..should that not be an operating vented skylite ???

[@ThisOldRV2023]

It's a very good point. I went straight to a solid covering because there is fan powered main opening bathroom vent within 14" of the skylight dome above the shower that's been effective at drawing out moisture from the shower. It seems to be well positioned. But a good observation, thank you.

[@JamesMasterPlaster]

Great job my friend 🤗👍🤗🏋️‍♀️🤺☦️

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Hey, thanks a bunch! I love your enthusiastic reply, you've made my day. Cheers!

[@kevinm3873]

Use a heat gun and the lap sealant comes off a bit easier.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

A good suggestion, thank you. I do own a heat gun but I was hesitant to use it, concerned I may warp the fibreglass roof membrane. But with your suggestion and others', I've realized I could have safely used it on a low setting and made the job much easier. I really appreciate you writing a comment, it's helpful.

[@rpodadventure]

Great work! Come and do mine next! haha

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Oh good, I'm glad you saw the video and liked it. Thanks for your kind comment. Do you live in a warm part of the country that would take me away from our wet and cool weather of British Columbia? Happy to come! Cheers!

[@markymark5704]

If you want to prevent lap sealant from degradation then paint it with polyurethane based paint

[@ThisOldRV2023]

This is a great tip, thank you. I didn't know you could paint lap sealant. Matching the paint colour to your rig would help with appearance, wouldn't it, in areas where the lap sealant is somewhat exposed, like the front and end cap seams that curl down the side of the rig for a few inches and can be seen from the road. Thanks for offering this suggestion - but remember, I'm not a lap sealant fan but I do respect your knowledge and experience with this product. Cheers!

[@markm5287]

Those screws will leak... more often then not, that's what the self level dicor is used for... people just get overzealous with it when it only take a good dab on the screw head enough to cover it and join with the plastic. I would use dicor or eternabond over the screw heads.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Ok, I think I need to give in and use a dab of decor over the screw heads, just to be safe. Although my sailboat fittings have not given me any trouble over the years using this method, without adding a sealant over the screw heads, I get that it's a bit risky to rely only on the sealant in the holes and what has squeezed up under the screw head and fender washer for protection. I will visit my local RV parts store with my head hung low!

[@markm5287]

@@ThisOldRV2023 Hey no shame in gathering opinions man. It's a beautiful finish job... I personally just use butyl tape underneath and dicor on the screw heads, but I've never worked with a fiberglass roof so I don't know if your marine sealant is better than butyl or not, but I know from experience over 20+ years and 3 campers than ANY exposed screw head will leak... even if you glob silicone in the hole before running the screw in. Water is funny that way. If you use self leveling dicor, just a little blob in the center of the screw head. Make sure it runs off and covers the screw and washer completely and touches the dome all the way around the washer perimeter... no exposed metal. That's my 2 cents... it may or may not be right, but it works for me, and it's easy to reseal.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thanks bud. I can understand why this is effective and worry free. Really good points, I'm with you.

[@designbuild7128]

...now to solve for that rediculously thin membrane acting as the sole seal on modern RV's. Just got my first modern RV (5th wheel) and was surprised at how thin it was and how poorly it is adhered to the OSB.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

I understand what you mean. I watched a video the other day of a newer model Mobile Suites 5th wheel, a very expensive unit, and the owners experienced the roof membrane being torn off while driving. The video showed the exposed OSB or plywood roof, with the fabric membrane torn in sections. I'm wishing you only good things with your new 5th wheel. Happy and safe travels. The video on KZbin was Liz Amazing if you're interested.

[@designbuild7128]

@@ThisOldRV2023 Thanks. I will check it out. sounds like the edges came up on their experience since having a little low pressure creating bubbles shouldn't rip the material. I am reluctant about tree limbs and walking (even though they call them walkable roofs).

[@ghostpepperrides4805]

Outstanding. Thank you.

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Feels heartfelt and sincere, and I want to thank you. All the best!

[@markymark5704]

Use dishwashing liquid and your finger to level, don't over use self leveling

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Good tip, thank you!

[@timboehm8700]

Great job!

[@ThisOldRV2023]

Thank you! I appreciate you watching the video and saying this. Cheers!