Large Maple End Grain Cutting Board Build - The Beast

Howdies Woodwork builds a large maple end grain cutting board for a client. Hope you enjoy the video!
#cuttingboards
#woodworking
#endgrain
#endgraincuttingboard

[@JASinIL2006]

Nice, no nonsense presentation! One thing I would disagree with is your contention that the scratches from 80 grit sandpaper are OK to leave in the glue joints because they’ll leave space for the glue. The glue will work just fine even on very smooth wood. Leaving a roughish surface on glue joints simply invites tiny pinholes to appear in the joints down the road. I worked in a wood fab factory gluing panels like these for several years, and you’re much better off with really clean, tight joints, especially on something that’s going to be exposed to water and food bits. Otherwise, great tutorial!

[@HowdiesWoodwork]

Great comment and appreciate your expertise! Luckily my Aunt refuses to actually cut on the board so maybe future pinholes won’t be an issue - haha. But I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

[@dwpalme2670]

I cannot agree more. Get those pieces as smooth as possible. No chances to leave any space.

[@norcoshore2]

Very nice cuttingboard

[@HowdiesWoodwork]

Thank you very much! Appreciate the view and the comment.

[@PeterGross-co7vr]

Nice board! how many board feet of maple did you begin with? Thanks

[@HowdiesWoodwork]

Hey Peter - thanks for the comment. If I recall, I started with two pieces of 48in x 4.5in maple. The boards were 6/4. If my math is correct that's roughly 4.5 board feet. (4.5in x 48in x 1.5in x 2 boards)/144. Hope that helps!

[@truthh8322]

Dude get some push sticks

[@HowdiesWoodwork]

Can’t disagree with you buddy. Need to get one of the Grippers when using the larger pieces.

[@truthh8322]

Not sure what happened but after all the glue ups went to trim the edges up and it's not square

[@HowdiesWoodwork]

Not sure, it could be that the pieces were cut slightly crooked and when glued together it magnified the issue. One thing I've done on occasion is to clamp the pieces together and run them through a drum sander before glue up to assure they are all flat. Hope that helps!

[@dwpalme2670]

take it to your miter saw and cut a trim on the edge just enough so that you take off as little as you can but make sure you are taking some off along the full length of the edge. That will square it up with the side. Then do the other corner and you will be good. Unless of course you have a crappy miter saw that doesn't have a straight fence. I'm lucky I have the Festool Kapex which is dead on. Put it this way, I borrowed a metal working square from my BIL's shop that is within .00000000091 square and it's dead flat against both sides. Using a good miter gauge on your table saw and trim the edges will help. If you don't have a good miter gauge, go out and buy one. I don't mean a cheap Amazon one, even the Sawstop miter gauge is shit. I'm talking about one like the Incra 1000. Yeah it'll cost you 2 Franklins but it will pay you back in a heck of a lot of time.

[@newday8172]

Isn't that dangerous, crosscutting with a fence?

[@HowdiesWoodwork]

Hey newday8172 - thanks for the question. My understanding is that the danger comes from not having enough of the piece against the fence (causing potential pinching of the piece) rather than simply cutting "across" the grain. Here's a guy with wood in the background explaining it (the wood in the background means he must know what he's talking about). kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGHNk5pvgdp3qcU

[@Mark-mb7nx]

5:09 Great video and the board turned out nicely. Is there any reason you didn’t use your sled for the cross cuts? I’ve been doing cross cuts the same way and getting some burns and on to make a sled for safety reasons.

[@dwpalme2670]

No it is not

[@dwpalme2670]

Get that fucking hand away from that blade

[@HowdiesWoodwork]

noted