How to Avoid Climbing Injuries with Expert Physiotherapy Advice

[@golubyavan5851]

Notes for my memory: Most common advice: - be patient, - be patient, take notes, - education in some areas, have a structure, knowing when to stop, - rehab = training in a presence of injury, strength training reduces risk o f injury if..., doing strength training regularly gives you ability to feel whats going on in your gody much better, - adaptation takes time, active rehab. Common causes of injury (non specific): - not tracking activities, not listening to your body, being constatntly on the push, - too much too soon, not enough time for adapting, fingers adapt very slowly, too many training modalities too quickly, - overuse 94% of causes, people pushing too hard too long, too close..., peaking before a trip, - trying to perform all the time, being the best all the time, not having a plan, no deload weeks. Tactics of injury prevention - planing sessions and sticking to it, consistency, - intention/focus each plan (prevention of too much/too many diferent tings, - master the basics of recovery: nutrition, recovery, sleep, - get stuck into the idea of autoregulation: if you dont feel good, change the plan, concider interoception, have a (backup)plan A/B/C, not doing more volume instead of max, when you feel loaded, cut your session short. Overrated injury advice - the idea of quick fix of injuries, - rehab exercises are a lot different than normal training (not true), - excentric cure of elbow tendonitis, - just rest (not working for most). What to do for finger injuries - pully tear/rupture = go to a professional, don´t ignore it, modify your volume, intensiti, grip type, hold type... - don´t panic :-D, take note of what you´ve been doing past weeks and what to change, - don´t just guess/assume, uncertainty = killer, go to a pro, - rest untill the pain calms down a little bit, stop poking, a week or so, than start to access, scan: how it reacts to being loaded. Staying motivated through injuries: turning setbacks into oportunity - flexibility work, core work, lifting weights, leg strength, technique drills on wall without strength, - reframe the infujy as an opportunity for working on weaknesses: technique...mobility, overall strength conditioning, - rehab = training in the presence of an injury, - accept it, adress weakness, tendencies, go away, reflect on why you´ve got injured, enhance interoception, proprioception, have a forced rest sometimes, forced to move your ego from climbing.

[@olliewelsh123]

Useful stuff cheers. Definitely took me years to be disciplined about stopping when I felt a tweak but that awareness can be a gamechanger

[@byaafacehead]

For injuries, my piece of advice is if you hear a pop and/or feel something weird and you reasonably think you might have injured yourself, just end the session then and there and give it a day to assess. Cause worst case, you lose part of one session to an abundance of caution (which really shouldn't happen very often). At least for me, it has been pretty obvious by the next day if something happened (after a night of rest, finger swells or has pain when pressing on it). But I've repeatedly made the mistake of thinking, ah maybe its ok and then doing a couple easy routes immediately after to test if my finger "really" hurt, and I am convinced it made my recovery much longer in each of those cases. I think there's been one time, at most where I thought I might have injured myself and it turned out to just be a random pop (to be clear there's other times my fingers pop and I don't think anything of it, obviously its heavily context dependent). But I also am not in anyway an expert, so would be curious if this view is shared by others. The tapping the brakes when reaching peak is super valuable, I've gotten pulley injuries 4 years in a row because I get strong in fall/early winter then overdo it, I think at least 3 of my injuries happened when I went from 2 days a week of climbing to 3-5 days in a single week due to getting too stoked..

[@cooio11111]

I needed this last week 😂

[@jonasheldhansen8069]

10:39 this is what has been the most effective for me, been climbing for 4 years no injuries and hit 7a+ on the moonboard

[@Kaygu_]

I'm currently in a peak, high intensity phase because I finally broke through a plateau. This video comes at the prefect timing because I'm starting to feel my body. I'm bookmarking this

[@hemasgeir470]

Gold Mine ! Thank you a lot for all the work you've done and are still doing!

[@denoordzee]

Great content, a lot of golden nuggets, wish I heard this at the start of my climbing journey

[@DebraWilderMeditation]

Problem is we do too much but don’t know it’s too much until the overuse injury hits. Some pro made training plans push too hard.

[@Destabilizator]

You can build your pyramid only as high as the size of your base allows. When you reach your peak, it's time to serve humble pie (deload week, at least) - this is the mental part of the training. It helps if you have it planned, then you know it's coming and makes it easier to accept.

[@samradcliff3]

Some GREAT advice here! Every climber should watch this!

[@assaqwwq]

I did, now I have more questions than answers... generic, non descript, all inclusive advice. Auto regulation, okay I'll open an icognito tab, but after that, what?

[@samradcliff3]

@assaqwwq having questions is not always bad.. So many people have no thought or understanding of the concepts discussed, especially if they have not been injured before. Some of the advice is generic, but they are some of the most important aspects of rehab/ recovery that many people disregard or lose sight of.

[@paulogryzek4740]

I'm surprised that I didn't see anything about this, and this is purely anecdotal, but I have noticed a lot of problems with finger and elbow tweaks when I do finger strength training and climbing without doing other strength training more proximal to the fingers. Wrist exercises such as wrist curls and weighed supinations, and shoulder exercises like push ups and pull-downs help the elbow become pain free when I'm doing a lot of hanging and climbing.

[@ioidt]

@5:43 does down climbing put more stress on the fingers? 95% of my climbs i downclimbed, and my fingers swelled up between the joins , esp when i started over hang V1-2

[@projecteer4498]

static down climbing on jugs shouldn't be stressing your fingers more than normal climbing would. There is an increased risk in injury when doing downwards movement (that being that gravity is pulling you down and it's easy to accidentally put more force than you intend on your fingers, shoulders, etc. especially since the mindset is often less focused). As for noticing this on specifically overhang, it's most likely just that you have less weight on your feet and are thus going into the holds on the down climb with a bit more force and less "control". just focus a bit more on the down climbing, staying static, staying on positive holds, etc. Also if you're someone who generally climbs all the way down to the ground, consider jumping from half way. It's a hard balance and i wouldn't say it's always better to do so (it's certainly nicer on your knees to just climb all the way down!) but it's worth considering the pros/cons (pros generally being: less finger strain, more practice falling, cons generally being worse on knees and risk of other falling injuries like wrists/ankles if you don't fall properly or land on something unexpected) Again, always hard to "diagnose" based on something that vague and no knowledge of the climber themselves, but I hope something there is worth the read!

[@VNECK401]

This is a long shot but could you give me some advice. I started climbing when I was 27 I m 34 now. I stopped climbing about 3 years ago. I'd say 4 years I'd climbed. I didn't take it serious at all the first 2 years, it was something to do on a Friday night or when it was raining and I couldn't skateboard. So in total I'd say I was really into for 2 years, go where I was planning my skating around my climbing. I could flash most v7 s and do new v8 s in a session, v9 was my project grade. I liked overhang 45° and slabs equally. So towards the end I was getting injured nothing major I don't think, I'm a skateboarder so aches or normal but I couldn't climb without my left upper trap/neck hurting the next day and the front of my right shoulder. I would take weeks off at a time and come back and still get that pain, I was thinking maybe it was my form that I wasn't pulling with my shoulder girdle and activating my neck like how you would hold a phone to your ear, but I'd still get sore. I eventually cancelled my membership and slowly fizzled away from climbing all together but I'd love to get back into it. How do I progress back to my original grade without injuring myself and not looking like it's my first day out. The tendon strength is still there in my fingers the endurance isn't but it's mentally frustrating

[@dmizzle73]

Hey mate, I think you've basically taken the wrong approach to your issue assuming that rest was what was required. You were obviously pretty healthy and active when you started but skateboarding as a background won't have given you a great upper body strength training foundation. I suspect that just by training through climbing to a pretty high level quickly you've created some muscle imbalances which are the cause of your discomfort. I'd start climbing again and book yourself an in person consultation with a physio. Ideally, one who regularly works with climbers. They'll probably perscribe some antagonist training to whatever the imbalance is and stop the issue over a couple of weeks or months if really severe. I've been climbing for a long time. Had these sorts of niggles and injuries fairly frequently and as soon as I feel them book a physio appointment - these things never go away on they're own if you intend to keep doing what's aggrivating it! Best of luck!

[@IjonTichy-1000]

As a skateboarder of 15+ years, finding bouldering as equally interesting some years ago and dealing with the same issue (trap/neck)… I can tell you, go to physiotherapist and check for muscle imbalances. You know it already, but it’s bound to happen unless you’re a pure ambivert, both goofy and regular skateboarder. So it’s not only about leg muscles that are out of balance. Physio will give you couple of exercises to fix that imbalance. Worked for me, comes back from time to time but it got much better. Wish you good luck on your recovery! Its possible.

[@apatheiajane4863]

Most of this felt really geared to climbers with very different goals, habits & barriers to me, and most of the people I climb with. I climb specifically because its the first activity I’ve found where the novelty & problem-solving keep my adhd brain engaged each week. Be patient, be disciplined & consistent, stick to your long term plans… um, how!? That genuinely feels as useless as telling a climber to be taller. If I knew how to be any of that, I’d have found some other way of doing regular exercise decades earlier. But now that I am climbing regularly, I’d like to incorporate more dedicated strength training, both so i can progress on harder climbs & so i can mitigate injury risk. What I really need is to figure out effective ways to keep strength exercises varied, novel, build habits thru gamification hacks etc., in order to make myself keep doing it, while balancing that with enough structure & evidence based theory that I can be confident its worth doing. I’d say some trends that put climbers with adhd at increased risk of injury is being prone to hyper-focus, impulsivity, often unpracticed at listening to our bodies, erratic with training (in terms of volume, intensity & even style), & skipping or skimping on repetitive exercises like warmups & strength training. Also, its common for people with adhd to be very sensitive to implied criticism, to have experienced a lot of criticism (including from ourselves) around adhd traits, & to have found out the hard way that general advice often doesn’t work well for us. All of which means having adhd can increase injury risks, while simultaneously making it extra hard to seek help mitigating those risks. The one bit that seemed really useful to me (and other climbers with adhd) was accepting that climbers get obsessive & prone to overuse injuries, & that it doesn’t mean they should disengage from the sport, at least not as a first response. Reframing injuries as an opportunity to work on something else is super helpful. When I started, my arms would usually feel like noodles almost immediately. Even if I felt like I’d learned something from an attempt, it didn’t feel like I had the upper body strength or endurance to try again any time soon, which was really disheartening. Eventually, instead of staying off the wall waiting for my arms to feel less noodly (& mostly feeling shit about how unfit I was), I started hunting for other challenges that I could still do even with noodle arms, & it made a massive difference in my mental game & skills progression.

[@LatticeTraining]

Thanks for your comment. As a climbing coach, it's really helpful for me to hear your perspective. I've coached and written training plans for people that have expressed similar needs to yours, though not having mentioned ADHD. However what you say makes a lot of sense in terms of keeping people engaged but in a way that can mitigate injury risk as the same time. It is possible to frequently change exercises and even training methods (supersets, contrast training, plyometrics etc.) while still staying consistent. The main thing is keeping a common training focus and training volume stable, which doesn't need to stop training feeling novel and interesting. At least that has been my approach. I'm also an advocate of cycling different training focuses throughout the year to keep things "fresh". All of this can happen while having one long term goal in mind. I'm really glad you found some nuggets of wisdom in this video even if much of it did not feel relevant to you. I think that's all we can hope to achieve as content creators with a wide audience.

[@elyselapalme7040]

Everyone in this video says to have a plan, but do you have any resources to make such plan...? I have no clue how to build a good program that will help with not get injured.

[@Jake-y6e2g]

No need for an elaborate plan. Keep it really simple: 8:07

[@dennis1802]

Just be smart about it, training consistently is more usefull then peaking. And my preference big pyramids before you progress to another grade to give your body time to adapt to the strain

[@LatticeTraining]

@elyselapalme7040 yes 😊 Check out this playlist on our channel, we show you how to write your own plan: kzbin.info/aero/PLiZDfsSZ2zD3QZ4SP8dFDBzHaA-7WhcU1&si=HZPvcB5m729HylhN

[@DebraWilderMeditation]

I like more what the one physio said about not having so much of a plan but focusing each session how we feel. It takes serious willpower to not get overuse injuries for me.

[@alanahomewood1855]

hahaha chat gpt for me!!

[@D4NKN4]

As a person who's suffered (suffering) multiple climbing injuries, how should we add "structure" to our climbing/training sessions if we are overall very busy? Since Fall semester started, I've been only able to maintain 2 sessions (of ~90 mins) a week. Usually I just do 1 slab/coordo day and 1 hard projecting day. How would you incorporate training in these 2 days?

[@genieinthepot2455]

Some sort of strength training on days where you can't get to the gym imo. If you just have some dumbells or even no dumbells you can defintely get some short program going.

[@joehertz8903]

Like the saying goes… the strongest climber is the one having the most fun 😅

[@ApequH]

My hand slipt while climbing a roof, now I have a sprained back and a crack in a rib. (I didn't even fall that hard, I ust got unlucky or something). Does anyone have an idea what sort of training I still could do?

[@ApequH]

(the autoregulation point was great)

[@ikra]

Rest. Rest. Rest. The worst thing you can do is not recover well and those injuries you have, particularly on the back, becomes recurring. You will be taking one step forward two steps back more often

[@marcosjuan3142]

I don't like AI synchronization in my Italian language...

[@dannyg2077]

Volume on top of intensity.....isnt that CrossFit