Learn G-Code for 3D Printing

[@CNCKitchen]

Is learning G-code worth the time and effort? Don't forget to like & subscribe and share this video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter, and other platforms!

[@teedjay91]

Yes, the more tools the better! Thanks, great vidéo again.

[@pearcomputers]

12:10 this way helpful and straight-forward. T1 is the only useful 3dp command :P . but then the event horizon had yet to reach 2021... 1t will :D

[@staticred1559]

When you start with RRF its better to know the most gcodes :D

[@1973Washu]

Unless you are doing something really unusual then probably not , a slicer program is more than good enough.

[@6yjjk]

Dang it, YT ate my comment. Stefan, I'd be interested in your take on Gcode post-processors that change rounded corners from a series of G1 moves into a single G2/G3. Do they have any discernible effect on quality or speed? I'd love to try them out myself, but I run an Anet A8 that is so inconsistent as to render experimentation pointless :P

[@jamesrobinson6010]

As someone who started in CNC running a commercial CNC milling machine, learning basic gcode is the first step in troubleshooting problems. Its amazing that robots (CNC machines) are so accessible now and a $200 3d printer is for all intents and purposes the same thing as a several hundred thousand dollar CNC mill! This video is an exceptional guide and building block for anyone who wants to actually "understand" the printing process. Slicers and CAM programs are awesome, but they also make the entry point of CNC so accessible that it can frustrate and discourage a new user because they dont have the building blocks necessary to know why things are not working as expected. Great video!

[@MonguzTea]

I know someone who used to design g-code on paper based on drawings. After that it was typed into the machine. It was in the 70's.

[@Kalvinjj]

Sounds a lot like when my dad learned COBOL programming language back in it's days. You're the compiler. Reference the books and convert it yourself to binary for punch cards!

[@DarkArtGuitars]

For some CNC machines that is still done today, or a hybrid approach generating some automatically and then editing it heavily by hand.

[@squidcaps4308]

Pretty much the sole reason why we have such organic looking designs today is the ability to create better g-code. When it is done on paper, each hour of work costs more money. You are forced to make quite simple cuts just because there is no time to write more complicated code. But i found it right away that it is going to be a bit of both, most is created with a computer but quite a bit is created manually.. cause.. you often don't need something very complicated and taking time to transfer all of the information needed just to make a simple cut is harder A lot of time you need to modify the code by hand to fit your exact needs. Last time was two days ago, to replace G91 Z5 with G90 Z3 from the usual startup routine cause the spindle was about 3mm from max Z at the top of the object, which sets the homing position.. oh wait, i removed a bunch of M106s yesterday cause i forgot i was printing PETG.

[@DarkArtGuitars]

@@squidcaps4308 yes, of course, noone is going to hand code a generative design. But if you're programming a relatively simple part on a machine like a swiss lathe, it is often times easier to code it by hand then to go through the trouble of creating a post processor for your CAM. Those are cases for mass production though, where 10h upfront to save 30 seconds on each part pays off in a week and from there on it's profit. For oneoff parts and complex geometry, modern CAM is definitely the way to go, and the only way.

[@6yjjk]

I did it that way in college in the late 90s, before they let us loose on CAD/CAM software. Writing code and seeing it run always gives me a kick; writing code and seeing it *cut* *metal* was just unbelievably cool.

[@perakuikka3025]

I've been 3D printing with my prusa for few months and this has been the most helpful video for me to understand G-code. Much appreciated Stefan!

[@takeittothegrave6302]

Hey Pera,ican help you with 3d design for 3d priting or gcode generation just hit me up on Upwork and i will sort you out 'Victor k'

[@licensetodrive9930]

This is like a chapter in a video based encyclopedia about 3D printing. Great stuff!

[@CNCKitchen]

Glad you liked it!

[@ramalightfoot9943]

This needs to be on a 3d printing playlist for videos you must watch before getting into 3d printing. Let me say that again. WATCH THIS VIDEO NOW, REGARDLESS OF WHERE YOU ARE WITH 3D PRINTING. This seemed like it was going to be so boring, and I only clicked on it because it was 3d printing related and couldn't be bothered to get up and actually print something. I *REALLY* wish I had this video when I first started 3D printing. This video is AMAZING, and perfect for beginners that want to know a bit about GCode, rather than being scared to look at the GCode. This is the precise reason I've never succeeded at a temperature tower, and now I feel confident that I CAN do that. Thank you CNC Kitchen. If I hadn't already subbed, this video would be another great reason to do so.

[@AndyChaplin]

Nice introduction! It would be cool to see a follow-up with a few commands for maintenance and tuning - M503/M500 and making alterations there, PID tuning for the nozzle and bed, setting steps, that sort of thing. Keep up the good work!

[@mscir]

I would like to second the request for videos on PID tuning.

[@Kalvinjj]

Great video! The other ones I would add is G4 - dwell: waits for a specified time, for example, for you to remove the droop of filament that purges or something like this, and M0, the unconditional stop, that waits until you press the encoder button on the LCD. For most useless G-code, I would give the medal to M510: lock the machine. I cannot imagine a single reason why anyone would need a password for a 3D printer, or maybe in some extreme case a makerspace would use that, but I dunno, feels extremely useless.

[@CNCKitchen]

Great choices!

[@ramalightfoot9943]

I would like to second this. Having a follow-up video would be excellent. There are so many things GCode can do I didn't even know about, and G4 would be an excellent one to start adding to my startups.

[@hyperfluff_folf]

Ok M0 is now easily the holy grale that should have been mentioned, i always wanted to use a stop but didnt look what it was, now i know so ty

[@Kalvinjj]

@@hyperfluff_folf EDIT: checked again to be sure: it seems the following I'll be posting is only relevant if you don't have an LCD screen. Oh, since it seems M0 got enough attention, I'll add here that Marlin requires EMERGENCY_PARSER enabled on the firmware for M0 to work, I have it enabled but dunno if all firmwares do, hope it is your case whenever you try using it

[@wheezybackports6444]

Considering g-code is a standard that's used on just about every CNC machine in existence M510 is probably there for the more dangerous equipment you might need authorization and preparation for at work. Like the type of thing that might cut your fingers off if you get them too close.

[@ristllin]

I felt there was no proper intro vid on youtube for this type of information. Job well done Stefan.

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks! Appreciate it.

[@outofdarts]

Great overview!

[@thedartdomain4197]

Didn't expect to see you here, but that makes sense!

[@Bobololo]

Hey, it's that guy :)

[@isaiaht8648]

Funny how everyone in the 3D printing community is interconnected like this lol

[@247printing]

Again what learned! ☺️

[@objection_your_honor]

I needed this video 21 years ago. I learned the hard way, by reading a book.

[@shiftyjesusfish]

Oh boy! Time to get all sorts of custom errors I end up creating for myself while I play with this!

[@mechsparks]

Right now I'm working with full control tool. Your video helped lot to understand the code. Thanks.

[@andredelfini]

Great summary and explanation! I just missed one that I believe is important: M600, which pause the print for a Filament change. This way we can produce prints with multi color in different heights.

[@edwinirizarry9277]

Love it man I would so love to see more in-depth gcode vids from you . I come to this channel for fine tuned printing info and I thank you for what you do 🙏🏻👍

[@CNCKitchen]

Awesome, thank you!

[@ravenoustraal]

This basic overview gives me confidence to try it soon! Ty

[@CNCKitchen]

Do it! It's an essential skill.

[@konradritter7543]

I had a feeling, this channel might have exactly this type of video (which I wanted to look for atm). Was not disappointed! Leaving comment for KZbin algorithm.

[@buntyshukla2625]

Just last semester I learned this but didn't understood anything but your explanation is really very great

[@spiedermensch3582]

Very clear and valuable! I'm bookmarking this.

[@samderby3073]

This inspired me to write my own slicer. Now I just need a printer to test it on :). Almost done saving up.

[@CNCKitchen]

That's awesome!

[@shennalim111]

Thank you. This is a very helpful video for a 3-D novice.

[@victortitov1740]

i think the knowledge of g -code comes in most handy when tuning and troubleshooting a printer. I ended up printing a small cheatsheet and slapping it onto the frame of the printer, very useful. I have some tuning commands (those that set acceleration and stuff), printer dimensions and speed limits there.

[@lacomarca3d796]

Other important? Maybe many, but I’d like to say than G2/G3 were the pair I was missing. The cura plug-in for them made my day. Salut i fins aviat! 😁

[@CNCKitchen]

I left out G2/G3 on purpose because I'd bet 99.999% of G-Code printed on 3D printers don't use the command (which is a pity but a result of us using stls).

[@lacomarca3d796]

@@CNCKitchen next gen printers should work through STEP files or something like that so curvilinear shapes are taken into consideration, I guess that even the printer drivers will work better since they will not have to process so much lines of code in exchange of a single G2/G3 command. Thanks for all your efforts 👍🏼😁

[@wordreet]

WAH? I never noticed that! Though I already knew that 3D printing g-code had those straight lines, and had accepted it because our workshop does the same. Hehe. 😅 For those that want to know, G2 is a clockwise arc and G3 is anti-clockwise. We use G2 & G3 all the time in CNC mills. We get the code off a workshop server after loading it across from the "engineering office", and they use automatically generated code from a "drawing" file these days. But sometimes it's pretty easy to notice all the micro straight lines in the side of a milled radius metal component. But I don't see much advantage for G2 G3 in 3D printing, whereas in milling it can define and control quality of finish and cutter wear due to cutter rotation + movement direction.

[@conrad6091]

Helpful and straightforward. Thanks for your work making these videos.

[@vinyltheworld4092]

I needed the temp g code command so thanks so much I really appreciate it also I completely understand g code now very easy to follow and understand

[@michaelbujaki2462]

I found learning g-code to be most practical on my Vertex Nano. The motors on that printer weren't strong enough to move the belts when they were tensionned properly, so skipped steps were inevitable. I created a code which sent the nozzle from one corner of the bed to the opposite corner so that the axes would recenter. I'm now on a Prusa Mini and I'm working on g-code modifications so that I can use a stainless steel hotend without tripping the thermal runaway detection.

[@johngodden1665]

Great video. I am a NEWBIE to this and that was straightforward, easy to understand. Thank you

[@takeittothegrave6302]

hey John ,i can help you generate gcodes..

[@johngodden1665]

@@takeittothegrave6302 no need at this time. Thank you

[@timothykonrad5945]

Omg, solving some major problems with the absolute/relative positioning in the g code thanks so much

[@magnamic5614]

Very helpful and VERY straightforward. Thank you!

[@MRLIROCK]

M115: Firmware Info M503: EEPROM Info G43: The proper way to run dual Z-motors ;) PS: love the videos!

[@CNCKitchen]

Good choice!

[@LukeSpine]

Video starts at 2:15

[@landlocked4771]

Very helpful and straight forward Stephen, you have never steered me wrong and I trust you never will. Thank You

[@s.k.t.3855]

Great video! I've needed to watch this video because I'm attempting to get an ABB robot to 3D print. Now I have the resources to begin my project!

[@CNCKitchen]

Glad it was helpful!

[@tomjones2860]

M851 is the command that you need to know. Get that right with your probe and perfect first layers every time.

[@RasberryPhi]

ich möchte auch sehr gerne CNC programmieren lernen. Ich hoffe, dass mir deine Videos helfen werden. Dieses war schonmal sehr aufschlussreich. Vielen Dank aus Bayern!😊

[@wordreet]

Excellent video! I recently donated my old Tevo Tarantula to someone who's thinking about starting 3D printing.

[@CNCKitchen]

That is awesome!

[@ethzero]

Very good! As a curious novice to 3D printing, I noticed there was a subtle difference to the way the Creality Slicer (Cura, rebranded) and Ultimaker Cura ended a print with CS moving the bed to the rear of the printer and UC presenting to the front. After discovering in the Machine Settings, this was a behaviour controlled by the G1 command, I was able to copy the *rear* presenting behaviour over to UC. The reason? I have OctoPrint's Webhook plugin fire off an event to turn on an external fan to cool the bed after a successful print. Having the print bed present to the rear enables (slightly) better cooling. Ideally I love there to be some functionally to turn off the fan once the temp is at ambient :)

[@matthew98594]

Couldn't you do a M190 S30 then M107? Could even present print after cooling

[@johnx9318]

Both helpful and straightforward. Thanks.

[@msmazzo]

Thank you! I was looking a bit for commands so I could read my codes easier. As a CNC guy, I have some G code experience, but I wasn't sure what the specific machine commands would be.

[@TheCarLovingSwede]

I've always wondered if there is a way to start a print on a Prusa mk3 without bed leveling. If you need to start a print "on top" of another one that would be great

[@1MRSomeguy]

3d printing nerd has a vid on stacking parts. starting a print ontop of another would be hard b/c of bed adhesion

[@Blooest]

For that, you would just need to remove the G29 -- or G80 as it happens to be in Prusa's case. Though, stacking parts in that way presents its own challenges -- bed adhesion on the first part needs to still be solid enough, or you'll just yank it with you. And you'll need a way to home the axes again and then move back to the correct start location if you've lost your positioning.

[@CNCKitchen]

Check my last video on resuming failed prints!

[@dpmott]

M112 is Emergency Stop, and is in the top 10 gcode commands that I manually type into the OctoPrint terminal. (PID configuration and EEPROM save commands also make the list.)

[@sub-sonicwavescaraudio1814]

So, I've been 3D printing as a hobby/side business for about 2 years now. During that time I got really busy with the printed custom projects for customers and my focus was shifted to building the Bass Controllers internal components and the actual quality of the printed pieces was really inconsequential as long as the basic idea of the custom design IE the added logo or added text or overall design was aesthetically pleasing The quality of the print didn't even get noticed. So I spent more time making sure that my internal components and the workability and durability of the controller built inside of the printed part was the highest of quality and I didn't pay any attention to how well or how terrible my printing was. Obviously if there were failed prints or if there were major blemishes or inconsistencies those got addressed and the project got reprinted but there was no thought into why it had happened. However lately I have slowed my side business down and I have focused a lot more on the actual 3D printing portion as I have upgraded to an IDEX printer and hopefully coming very soon my ordered carbon X1 so quality now is my focus on the actual prints. I have also been using Cura Prusa slicer bamboo Labs and idea maker and having to import printers into different slicers that don't come with pre-designed profiles I have had to look at start code and in code and was completely lost. I found this video today and in the 12 minutes of this video I learned more than I have in the last 2 years I love how analytically adept you are and the way you approach each issue so systematically I have now watched like four or five of your videos and again I have learned more in these few videos from you then in the entirety of my two years of printing before so thank you very very much!!! But particularly this video learning those 10 g codes that you just showed us will forever change the face of my 3D printing projects and abilities. Simply put the building blocks that you just gave me are going to help propel me into a new world of 3D printing and will inevitably be the most valuable tools I will ever use so this video has changed my 3D printing life for the better and thanks to you I will never be the same!!!!

[@mscir]

GREAT video. I was wondering why you mentioned at 10:30 that using M109 instead of M104 when doing a temp tower causes more problems than it helps. Please talk about what problems it causes. Without practical experience it seems like a good idea to wait for the nozzle to reach the new temp before doing each successive layer, but what you said made me curious.

[@OSrBurns]

waiting between layers causes blobs because the printer continues to deposit material when waiting

[@mscir]

@@OSrBurnsGood to know, thanks.

[@kkloikok]

So I've seen flow control (if statements) in GCODE or at least in prusa and S3D. I'd like to see a video on what those are really useful for and how to use them

[@operaglass09]

Thank you for the video, which is a good starting point to decipher the complex G-code. 😊 The kart that runs through the streets of Japan shown around 34 seconds in the introductory video used to be a service that called itself Mario Kart.🏎 However, they had been using the character without Nintendo's permission, which led to a court case, and since then they have been operating the service wearing Disney characters and stuffed animals.🐈 In January of this year, the kart company was ordered by the court to pay 50 million yen and lost.💸 This is a victory for Nintendo.

[@wonsnot]

I literally needed this today and was researching it myself when this popped up in my feed 👍

[@hughessay1372]

Great quick summary--Well done!

[@Dwz800]

Another one I really preciate and use often is adjusting printspeed in octoprint with M220 S... (For example 200% => M220 S200)

[@CNCKitchen]

Good one!

[@mudaserawan1457]

At 1:15 the bearing on the right side of X gantry seems to be slipping out from bottom. Please check.

[@truegret7778]

I would be interested in a short video from you, Stefan, regarding power loss recovery and specifically the use of M413, please.

[@dangerverma]

Simple guide, thanks Stefan!

[@hoffer_moment]

took screenshots of all those slides, very very useful :)

[@CNCKitchen]

They are also all available on my website!

[@hericperez]

This is the first time I don't feel scare about coding., Thank you.

[@andresdica]

Danke Stefan, It was a really helpful video.

[@ym30214]

Super informatives Video! :))) Welche Z-Werte bekomme ich bei meinem MK3S+, wenn ich vor Beginn des Drucks, also gleich nach dem ersten G28 eine Prusa- Z-Kalibrierung (anfahren des oberen Z-Achsenendes und eine leichte übersteuerung von 10-20 mm) durchführe? Wird dann der soll- oder ist-Wert abgespeichert? Reicht dann ein G28 um gefahrlos wieder in die Home-Position zurück zu kehren und das meshbedleveling zu starten? Ein Tipp wäre nett, weil ich ungerne (wieder) mit der Nozzle ins/durchs Druckbett fahren würde :D (Hintergrund: Im Rahmen der letzten Upgrades stellt sich meine Z-Achse teilweise im Druck zwischen Layer 2 -20 schief (Vermutlich ein leichter Slipstickeffekt). Eine anfängliche Z-Kalibrierung scheint die Fehleranfälligkeit signifikant zu senken) Das wäre mein Ansatz: ; Regulärerer erster Block M862.3 P "[printer_model]" ; printer model check M862.1 P[nozzle_diameter] ; nozzle diameter check M115 U3.9.1 ; tell printer latest fw version G90 ; use absolute coordinates M83 ; extruder relativeG mode M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; set extruder temp M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for extruder temp G28 W ; home all without mesh bed level ; Manuelle Z-Kalibrierung G0 Z20.0 X105 F1000 G0 Z200.0 ; 20 mm übersteuerung G28 w; G80 wird von G28 mit übernommen ; Weiter mit dem regulären Code Is it safe? :D

[@shawnmcandrew6923]

love cnc kitchen. A Most informative channel.

[@Drew_pew_pew_pew]

I like relative positioning for extrusion more because it's easier to edit the gcode when you want to resume a failed print. I don't recall if you talked about this in your previous video about print failures. It can be done with absolute positioning (Ideamaker was setup this way but you can change this) but I found this out after I threw my print in the garbage 🙄

[@BrumKid]

Question how do you access the g-code and how do you edit it. Iam new to this and would love to know which program is used and how.

[@filetdelumiere5037]

As usual, you videos are so useful !

[@thomasfeix7979]

Impressed that your text file in the video is actually from today! :)

[@CNCKitchen]

I'm a procrastinator...

[@thomasfeix7979]

@@CNCKitchen and I thought more like you deliberately put one in from today :)

[@loubano]

All your vidéo and tutorials are so greats !!!!! Big thanks to you 😀 Thumb up and subscription Mandatory 😀👍 Greetings Cedric France

[@CNCKitchen]

Merci bien!

[@Wheatley101]

Very useful!! Thanks buddy!! Greetings from UK!!

[@CNCKitchen]

Cheers!

[@deanoconnor7807]

Thank you for sharing your time and knowledge.

[@CNCKitchen]

My pleasure!

[@bigboomer1013]

i cant seem to find any of the settings in the gcode like on 2:42. been wanting to see it so i can fuigure out what defailt settings crealty use for the rabbit gcode that came with the sd card

[@KB-qh2jt]

Nice work Stefan!

[@Kekht]

Thank you for video. I was always wondered - why we need in start G-CODE first SET temp and then SET&WAIT? why not just SET&WAIT?

[@na_dann_mal_los]

Like said in the video: set&wait pauses the processing of the gcode, so the heating-up will be in sequence and thus will take more time. Set temp (on nozzle and bed) forces the printer to heat up SIMULTANEOUSLY. The following set&wait (on nozzle and bed) waits for both being heated up.

[@Kekht]

@@na_dann_mal_los You did not got what I meant. I clearly understand that. And in some cases that would work. But usually it takes MUCH more time to heat a bed - so to prevent oozing heating bed first make sense, and nozzle heats up much more faster. But, like in example in video, many times I've seen, that first we SET bed and right after - SET&WAIT bed. Why?

[@CNCKitchen]

I don't think that there is a particular reason for that. As pointed out with the asterisk, M109 and M190 would have been sufficient but it also doesn't hurt if you have both.

[@TheMidnightSmith]

Omg you just helped me figure out an end gcode for raising nozzle head! Rather than use the wierd Prusaslicer "if" statements, I'll just use this lol

[@hologos_]

The prusaslicer "weird" if statements prevent the printer to destroy itself if it should move higher than is the maximum Z. If you remove it and your printer has max Z lets say 250 and the printer ends the print at z = 245 and you tell it to move 10mm at the end, you will grind your gears because it could never reach z = 255.

[@M0rdH0rst]

Nice! Currently I'm trying to find a way to modify the travel speed in the grbl (*.nc) files generated by Fusion 360 to move faster between the operations in the private edition. So a parser would have to find the correct 'F#' command and replace the # with the desired speed. Didn't dare trying it yet, but I guess, I'll give it a try now 🙂

[@CNCKitchen]

You're on the right track! Maybe there are some comments where the travel moves start that you can use to input the new G1 Fnnn commands.

[@laudavhutcheon946]

Follow up please. I am building my own, very large, 3D printer and teaching myself gcode. It has been challenging :)

[@Prof.Polymath]

Great video mate, really well explained. Thank you. 👍🏼

[@joexie6834]

thanks for the video. if I would trim the Z axis height as I would put print plate or remove it(the height woud be added from the original plate). what would be the gcode command should be? thanks for any help.

[@elmariachi5133]

I would like to understand more about the M500 to M504 commands, and when and how to use them. Which settings do they actually load, is homing and loading of the bed levelling including? What about mesh bed levelling, is it restored with M501, too?

[@diyit6725]

Hi Stefan, thanks for this important knowledge on 3d printing world, greetings from Mexico!

[@CNCKitchen]

My pleasure!

[@yuchending4977]

Hi, if I use M82 command to use the absolute mode for the extruder, how the E number relates to the steps or the rotation angle of the stepper motor? I'm thinking mod the extruder motor to let it drive a rotary stage. Thank you!

[@ferenctaisz449]

Thank you so much for this video. You made my life happier :)

[@CNCKitchen]

You are so welcome!

[@stefandressen1757]

Hallo Stefan, nach dem Drucken eines Testwürfels habe ich festgestellt, dass die gemessene X und die Y Achse je 0,2 mm von der Vorgabe (20mm Würfel) abweicht. Die Z-Achse ist perfekt jedoch fehlt es an der Genauigkeit von X und Y. Die Maße liegen bei ca. 19,78 mm anstatt 20 mm. Kann man zur Korrektur den G Code M1005 nutzen und wie sieht die diesbezügliche Eingabe dazu aus? Über etwas Hilfe würde ich mich sehrt freuen. Vorab vielen Dank !

[@WeItenspinner]

My most important command is M92 to set the feeding rate for a new extruder gearbox.

[@d.i.a.5392]

Thank you great and clear intro.

[@garagemonkeysan]

Great video. Super useful for GCode introduction. Mahalo for sharing! : )

[@CNCKitchen]

Glad it was helpful!

[@NEXUS-kjv]

*Do you have a link to the software for the CR Touch ender 3 file download, for my SD Card* _I'm having a hard time finding it_ ty

[@funguy4900]

Great channel. Thanks for your great videos.

[@randyedwards3244]

Hi there Stefan, such an educational site where I have learned a considerable amount in a short time. One g-code in particular that has been eluding me is one for controlling the extruder. I'm trying to calibrate the extruder on my Geeetech A30 Pro and find it frustrating that this particular code seems to be avoiding all my attempts to locate it. The Geeetech control panel lacks any setting regarding extruder control and I thought using a g-code to do so would be rather simple. Apparently not! I would appreciate any assistance or direction you could provide, Thanks!

[@WhamBamSystems]

Love this! I love to tinker with gcode to customize some models.

[@CNCKitchen]

Such an important yet underrated skill!

[@automaticprojects]

Super helpful as always

[@TheJay6621]

yes this was helpful and straightforward..

[@digilockmech3487]

Very nicely explained..thanks s lot

[@leanazulyoro]

Extremely helpful! Thanks!

[@NaterNorris]

Thanks for the video, nice and clear.

[@LuLeBe]

Do 3d printers not have G54 et for work coordinate systems? If they do, I'd say that group of commands is important as well.

[@chuckthetekkie]

I've noticed that some printers will perform auto bed level before every print regardless and adding M29 makes the printer do it again. As a hobbyist software programmer I love learning what is actually being told to the printer.

[@Kalvinjj]

As far as I remember, Marlin has an option to add print start G-codes, that will run no matter the initial G-code on the file you start (or through serial). That might be the reason I assume.

[@CNCKitchen]

This might be something that's configurable in the Marlin (or others) firmware.

[@hekkimendez]

This is great! I'm new to all this, is there a way to make it to where my prusa heats the nozzle and bed while calibrating and then waits for the temps to start printing after they've reached temp?

[@teguh.hofstee]

You want to wait for heating before calibrating because things will deform further under additional heat. It'll be more accurate if you wait.

[@hekkimendez]

@@teguh.hofstee that makes perfect sense, thank you for that!!

[@mscir]

I want to read the 49 ABL (x,y,z) values from a Neptune 3 Plus, would I use M421 V T1 ?

[@MobileDecay]

So if I understand gcode can I count it as a second language? 🤔

[@tinkieklan4009]

is there a loop function with marlin gcode?

[@JJ-jt4ji]

Thank you for sharing, subbed

[@doctrainsmodifications5201]

Greetings, Another great tutorial thank you. I'm focused on the extruder movements as I need to do some retraction during picture taking while the X axis is moved away from the print to a trigger switch and then a 1.5 sec delay for the picture to be taken. I need a extruder retraction, (?), at that delay point to stop the nozzle from oozing prior to resuming the print because the ooze hardens because of the cooling fans and then hits the print on its return. Any thoughts? Based on a LAYER CHANGE this is the camera trigger G Code ; Layer Change leave the print G1 Z1.0 F9000 ;Raise Nozzle Up A Little G1 X240 Y217 F9000 ;Move X Near Trigger Switch And Center G1 X243 F9000 ;Press the trigger Switch G4 P10 ;Delay For 10ms to de-bounce the switch ; oozing happens here G1 X240 F9000 ;Move back and release the Switch G4 P1500 ;Delay For Camera focus and shutter click 1500 mill seconds ; oozing happens here as well ; return to the print Thanks Again Doc'

[@ARandomTroll]

Is there any easy way to write the pid values to sd card by just running a gcode file? I am running aftermarket marlin on a chinesium printer and connecting via usb is rather cumbersome.

[@MaxGoddur]

It would be most helpful if a video could be made covering how g-code is made to work with Temp towers. I have the Prusa MK3 i3 and am looking to use a temp tower which I found on 3d printers site. What I don't have is the knowledge to alter the G-code for running it on the printer for that temp tower.

[@ZorlacSkater]

Thank you bro, very clear tutorial. But you should add a simple example and show how you execute it