(HOW) I fixed the Ugly Layers on my 3D Printer

[@isprithul]

I just tested 2 of my extruders and both had extremely wobbly gear. All this time I have been tightening my belts and changing Z lead screw couplers for nothing. Great find Stefan and danke!

[@CNCKitchen]

Let us know if changing them improved print quality!

[@SianaGearz]

What sort of extruder gear or extruder assembly is it, manufacturer/brand?

[@Twin_Flyer]

What make and model of printer were they?

[@Mystical_Zeus]

Yea, please do an update

[@ilikewaffles3689]

Update please

[@YourPersonalArt]

A friend put together his Voron kit and discovered, after 100's of hours of fiddling, that the culprit was the wrong size gear delivered with the kit! Again the best quality of video! Thank you!

[@MirageC]

FANTASTIC! this video contains everything that a hobbyist building a printer should know/check when performing the firsts prints of any new build! Thank you!

[@___Paradox_1480___]

Hola :)

[@fuckutube65]

Mr. Sub-5-minute-Benchy is here! ;-)

[@alexsmith7801]

Needs more servos.

[@smokin1974]

This printer has less linear rails than one of his z axis 😜

[@zodyking4737]

After 2 months of 3d printing, going from ender 3 pro to ender 3 s1. I learned that you should build your own 3D printer lol. But it's true, if a manufactures makes two variants of the same thing then he/she is making one of them poorly on purpose to upsell an over priced model. Id love to get as much knowledge as possible about 3D printers because I plan to build a large scale one to quickly print RC fuselages.

[@fenrir4046]

Bravo! I went and checked my Titan copies and there it was, the gears are all off-center. I don't print aesthetics, but I'm very happy about finally finding out the reason for inconsistencies!

[@CNCKitchen]

Happy to hear that. Even though I'm also usually printing functional parts the extra quality helps with dimensional accuracy and I'd bet even strength.

[@chyrt]

what titan copies do you have?

[@fenrir4046]

@@chyrt Tevo/Homers. Avoid them at all cost. Generally I'd advice to stay the heck away from Titan extruders in general. There are better extruders available nowadays, for example BMG.

[@smoothwalrus9354]

I don't understand why the gears are so sloppily manufactured that they're off-centre in the first place. If you're buying a tool for precision work and it's not even precise to begin with, the company who produces it don't deserve your money. I would be inclined to just send it back and ask for a refund.

[@chyrt]

@@smoothwalrus9354 I don't think they produced this gear, for sure outsourced. Probably a qc issue. You always have bad parts, the problem comes when they didn't check enough

[@mt2aod]

I have a Cetus MK3 with exactly the same issue. There are definitely more than one out in the wild. I've easily spent 100 hours dialing in every detail, rail, & cura parameter to achieve dimensionally accurate prints. I've been racking my brain trying to figure out what the source of the layer inconsistency could be. I was about ready to concede it was my inexperience, switch to a smaller nozzle to minimize the effect, & accept longer print times. I had looked at everything except the extruder gear. I'm so happy someone with so much experience was able to look at the same problem & solve it. You're the best.

[@CostlyFiddle]

I get a kick out of creators who comment that they COULD make a video about something, but it would be hours long.....then I look over and my cat, who's watching a 12 hour long video of birds eating seeds in a park, and I question, who wouldn't want to listen to Stefan's angelic voice for several hours?

[@rklauco]

I had some weird gray PLA with some sticky surface. I've printed just few grams using it, but the sticky residue remain on the extruder gear. Over time, small shavings literally glued to the gear, changing the diameter on one side - got similar results to your prints. Simple wire brush and 2 minutes later, my prints became smooth again. Off went the PLA 2kg package.

[@CNCKitchen]

Also a very valid point! Check that everything is clean.

[@marsgizmo]

Excellent video Stefan! And love your new amazon shop, just ordered the 1/4 inch thread inserts for camera mounts 😎 I can finally finish a small camera adapter now.

[@CNCKitchen]

Awesome, thank you!

[@erdemgenel_r]

You saved my life! I've been struggling with the same problem for weeks, I couldn't figure out which one it was because so many parts were replaced at the same time. I never thought of the bed. Thank you!

[@d4popov]

The amount of attention to detail and thoroughness you put into making research and solving problems makes your channel so brilliant. Thank you for all the wonderful content!

[@cgil6850]

I rarely subscribe to anything, but your channel has certainly made the list. I love how you explain things simply, but without treating your viewers like they are stupid. It is nice to hear the humility in your speech, even with all of your knowledge. Don't ever change.

[@edumaker-alexgibson]

Stefan I really appreciate you laying out your issue diagnostics here, and I'm glad your methodical approach rewarded you with this unusual root cause! I've never seen an offset extruder gear in 100+ printers, but you've opened me up to new avenues, and given me a pep right when I need to troubleshoot a CR10 S5 with a gnarly lurch on its huge Y moving bed.

[@safttv6750]

I had the exact same problem with my CR-10 four years ago when I bought it. The extruder gear bore was also off-center. I realized it when I printed larger top layers where I could see gaps between the extrusion lines on some parts and perfect extrusion on other parts of the top layer with a consistent alternating pattern. I fixed it by just buying an Bondtech BMG and haven't had that problem since.

[@CNCKitchen]

Yeah, good quality hardware sometimes pays out!

[@stephanwelz6665]

"Guten Tag everybody, I am Stefan" Das ist einfach die mit Abstand beste Begrüßung auf KZbin.

[@tissuepaper9962]

Begrüßung is a fun word to say.

[@elofos0815]

@@tissuepaper9962 es ist spaßig wenn man nicht der deutschen Sprache mächtig ist. ich finds schrecklich als Deutscher einem deutschen auf Englisch folgen zu müssen, aber offenbar ist das der einzigste Weg um an follower zu kommen

[@tissuepaper9962]

@@elofos0815 if it's hard, that means you're learning, right? Don't be frustrated so easily, think with the thirsty mind of a child.

[@LostCylon]

I am extremely impressed by your thorough and professional examination of this problem, and taking the time not only to show all the steps you went through to finally find a solution, but to make it sound so easy to rectify. Thank you for such a wonderful and informative explanation :)

[@shawnrains4047]

This video really does a good job at demonstrating that even the smallest part of the machine can have a major impact on the final print.

[@ameliabuns4058]

I had a very slight version of this Issue on my BMG clone. I had sinewave extrusion. Due to the high hearing it was very visable on a single wall. I figure it out by printing rectangle/cylinders with the same mm of filament usrd every layer and then, designing a shape with less Filament used every 5mm-10mm etc. These shapes really help you figure out what kind of issue you have. sine eaves /ripples for example mean circular components like idlers etc Random patterns mean lose components usually. I had a long guide on inconsistent layers and how to fix them but noone saw it and it's lost in the forums

[@krukhlis]

This is a common issue with a cheap chinese BMG clones. 😥😥

[@Hasblock]

So how did you end up fixing the sine wave extrusion?

[@ameliabuns4058]

@@Hasblock I just bought another one and kept that one for my tool 1 which isn't as important

[@almosh3271]

Stephan, your diagnosis was perfectly correct. Not only the cylinder shape that I was printing seemed like your original print. But also the hole in the center of the cylinder looked like an American football. I tightened the X and Y axes belts, and reduced the print speed from 60 to 40. That solved the problem. Also since I don't have a bed leveler. I made sure that my print bed was as level as I could physically make it. That also proved beneficial. Keep up the good work and two thumbs up!!

[@magnuswyrwa9380]

Super, daß Du solche Informationen teilst und immer wieder wertvolle Tips gibst. Das hilft einem Noob, wie mir, echt voran zu kommen. Danke.

[@medienmond]

A new way to start looking at the extrusion system of any 3D printer, i have not thought about before. Thank you very much for your input.

[@olafbreuer8129]

Aaargh... was für ein Aufwand wegen einer Fertigungstoleranz! Vielen Dank fürs Video, hab selbst nach 12 Jahren 3D Druck echt wieder ne Menge gelernt!

[@istvanmaasz6771]

I think these incosistencies are the last bit of imperfections which for years I thought are undefeatable. Maybe not, you got my hopes up :) Excellent work. Your videos are by far the most useful ones for more serious hobbyists!

[@avejst]

wow, great find. Great walkthrough of the problems relating to"Z layer shift" Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀

[@CNCKitchen]

Glad it was helpful!

[@MickHealey]

Brilliant video Stefan. Your attention to detail and tenacity is first class. Thank you for sharing.

[@Alex-bv8ub]

I have had the same problem with prints almost from day one with my printer. I've put linear rails on every axis, added another z motor and screw. Made sure there is no binding in any axis and no banding in the z axis but the problem remains. When I get home I will check the grub screws on each axis and then the extruder gear. Your video just might be a life saver!

[@aidangillett5396]

Yep, my CR10 Mini had an offset extruder gear that caused both under AND over extrusion symptoms simultaneously. This was my first printer and it's a really bad way to learn when you have people telling you random and incorrect advice at the same time. Lots will tell you to adjust so-and-so settings, followed by more adjustments. Others will tell you to 'take it back to stock' without a 2nd thought and ignore you when you proclaim it doesn't help because it wasn't right whilst 'stock' When I eventually found the problem, I made it a small personal mission to attempt to instill in as many people as possible that a stock creality machine (really only CR10 and Ender3 at the time) is capable of near perfect results whilst stock, and that you MUST check all mechanical aspects 1 by 1 because until you achieve that near perfect result, you are wasting your time with adjustments and modifications that will only bandaid a problem and don't address the actual cause Unfortunately there's so much noise from people who will just instantly blurt out common bandaid 'fixes' and modification advice that it often does a disservice to people and leads to even more frustration. The one thing I desperately wished for was a proper step-by-step guide to checking every aspect, establishing known baselines and targets and only then moving on from there to actually understand and dial in settings. Not just shotgun random suggestions until it seems to work. It's a very inefficient methodology for having consistent reliable results and improvements

[@Lasseu]

Good idea!

[@meisievannancy]

So an offset extruder gear is a wobbly gear or gear that is not centered ? How do they even machine a gear like that.

[@jeroenritmeester73]

Skip to 2:14 TL;DW: Possible causes for inconsistent layer height: Rough Z-axis Z-axis wobble Bed breathing (heating and cooling cyclicly) Adaptive/magic layer heights failing Possible causes for shifting layer: Play in the axes, due to grub screw wearing down Wobble in the hot end, or the nozzle Inconsistent flow from the hot end: Inconsistent filament diameter (unlikely) Big speed changes/acceleration/deceleration (print slower) Extruder slips/Extruder gear may be off-center (was the case here)

[@Max-kc2rc]

Very concise analytical explanation !!. I had the problems caused by inconsistent heat-bed heating back at the reprap times some years ago. Took me months to figure it out, since you cannot see it... and back then I did not expect that the deformation due to temperature had such a big contribution.

[@streetguru9350]

Should totally have a 2nd channel just for hours long rambling, would love to watch that

[@deuterium8236]

Well that's one thing I never looked at. I eventually repaired my old MkII extruder because it printed better than the MkIII warranty replacement. Always great content. Thanks -Peter

[@CadillacGunslinger]

I had a similar problem with my Ender 6 with a Biqu H2. This video led me to a grub screw that was a tiny bit loose on an extruder gear. Thank you so much.

[@Hans-fq4ip]

This video saved my printer. I did all the same things thinking it was electronics/bearings/belts… thank you.

[@von_dusenhain2523]

a little something for the Algorithm: In my opinion being able to use and operate metal fabrication machines like lathes or milling machines is a great addition for the 3D printing hobby. Being able to make better fitting parts then off the shelf ones can make a huge difference. And you don't need fancy six figure costing CNC-Machines, conventional machines even the better hobbyist grade machines with some ingenuity are usually more then good enough. For example making an extruder gear on a basic lathe and a drill press isn't that difficult. And using a straight knurling-tool with the lathe, for making the teeth on the extruder gear, is quite satisfying. 😄

[@kingjules2557]

Hi Stefan, vielen Dank für deine genialen Videos & Beiträge ! Ohne die ich nicht hinter all die Fehlerquellen des 3dDrucks gekommen wäre, geschweige denn so eine hervorragende Druckqualität erreicht hätte!

[@AuRon79]

The best! I changed my worn brass extruder gear on my E5Pro to a stainless steel gear. Qualify was ok. Fast fwd a couple months.... I've seen this video before and it came up on my recommended feed, so I watched it again. Then it hit me... My layere looked just like yours so I walked over to my printer and there it was... the gear was slightly off center! 3 cheers for CNC Kitchen! 🍻 🍻 🍻

[@hanskonig3338]

Excellent diagnostic Video Stefan! I checked my modded Ender3’s ongoing moire issues and found that the fine ribbed steel DD extruder drive gear had a barely noticeable excentic wobble when turning rapidly! I solved this problem by removing the gear and wrapping 1 layer of common 0.05 mm thick kitchen alu foil around the 5mm stepper motor shaft, then carefully sliding the gear over the shaft again. Since the shaft has a substantial flat side for the anti rotation grub screw, the small wrap of foil shim around the other side of the shaft to fill the minute bore-oversize gap. It me took some patience and multiple attempts to find the correct shape of foil to fit properly. Success! On tightening the grub screw reassembling the extruder and rerunning the stepper at speed

[@MAGA_Patriot2024]

Hi, Stefan! This may sound stupid to veterans of 3d printing, but hopefully it will help out some newcomers. I was having inconsistent extrusion issues on my Ender 3, and followed your video to diagnose. When I came to checking the extruder motor shaft for wobbling, I noticed that the grub screw holding the gear wasn't secured on the flat side of the shaft. Normally I'm very conscientious about that, so I'll just list it as temporary carelessness at some point, assuming it didn't travel on it's own. It's now extruding well again. Hope this helps someone...thanks!

[@laconeccionvideo]

Nice, I've had supspect of that gear and was one of the main problem after tightening all the screws. Also I used linear bearings and I changed for plastic guides, so the prints now are smooth.

[@Pleumel]

Die Professionalität für 3D Druck thematisierte Videos auf KZbin sucht seines gleichen. Extrem Detailliert und faktisch ohne langweilig zu werden. Sehr interessant! Hut ab! - English below! English: The Professionalism for 3D printing based videos on youtube is unreached. Extremely detailed and filled with facts without getting boring. Very interesting! Hat off!

[@victoraugusto9746]

Your channel its just amazing. Really unbeliaveble. Your content is gold. The way you approach the subject and the cientific method behind every investigation its really good! Thank you. Hugs from Brazil.

[@jeffsparks5111]

I had this problem with my Intamsys Funmat HT Enhanced and changed out the extruder gear, and that one change made all the difference.

[@rdyer8764]

The best part of this video: All the different troubleshooting suggestions!!!

[@instantjustice164]

I simply love this channel. From just a curious gazer, i have made myself into a much mature 3d printing enthusiast. Mature means now I can figure out the reasoning behind my bad prints and apply my own "kitchen science". Thanks Stefan 💝👏👏👏

[@stevenmcculloch5727]

Epic video. I'm going to send this to people when they need help troubleshooting. This is a common problem.

[@CNCKitchen]

Thanks!

[@GoldenTiger01]

I fixed them before I even had them by just buying the X1C. Saved me so much time!

[@brightnovastar]

Great demonstration of how to patiently and methodically troubleshoot an issue.

[@TheGraemeEvans]

I'm very impressed you found that issue.

[@raymonschepers994]

Wooow, talking about an eye opener!!!! Thank you very very much Jürgen for the (i’ve lost count on how many uploads are available on CNC-kitchen…..) I know you are one very busy man sharing your time, investment and your experience to help others including me to improve the quality and experience of 3d printing. Therefore you deserve the best of all and most certainly all the credits you’ve received. You just make life that chunk of enjoyment easier. I’m very grateful for that. Greetings from the Netherlands my friend

[@xi6n0r4n7e]

Very useful video, you showed the importance of the extruder gear and how it affects the print quality

[@sa4555]

Stefan, ultimate human RAR. Compressed so much information in such a short video.

[@MucaroBoricua]

Very good problem-solving video. It was a pleasure to watch even though I don't have a CETUS.

[@GreenAppelPie]

I like how explained your thought process! There not enough of that going around.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

I recently changed the extruder gear on mine and I definitely saw an immediate improvement in the print quality; definitely something worth checking out since it's such an inexpensive thing to replace

[@urbanbuffalo692_8]

Im getting the same look on my prints took care of most thru z wobble now after watching this going to check my extruder thank man your videos are very helpful and just great to watch overall

[@AZREDFERN]

The extruder gear on the Sprite pro head is an aluminum extruder, glued to a steel shaft, glued to a plastic gear. The glued between the steel and aluminum broke free after a spool became tangled. I can’t find a replacement extruder gear anywhere, and it’s $90 for a new Sprite Pro head. Definitely not buying another Sprite printer until parts become available.

[@Vez3D]

Awesome video Stefan. I'm always impressed by the quality of your stuff. This was a good catch!! Good work

[@CNCKitchen]

Thank you and always happy to hear that!

[@VIIStardust]

I didn't have trouble with my gear wobbling, but I do use an original Creality Ender 3 kit and the stock feed motor and gear are hard mounted and can't be disassembled, so after running it for two years (but only occasionally), the brass feed gear had worn down a lot, since the stock one actually has very shallow and broad-tipped teeth. Ever since I replaced the motor and feed gear, recalibrated my flow and tightened up all the bolts and belts I've been getting great results. Is what I wish I could say, but it actually came down to the filament spools. I exclusively use filament wound on cardboard spools (gotta like not completely destroy the planet with my plastic slinging) and I print in a fairly small footprint on a sideboard, so I use the stock top-mount spool holder. That has a horrible amount of surface friction, so there's actually a noticeable difference between the smoother movement of polymer spools vs cardboard ones, just enough that the cardboard spools gradually begin resisting the movement as the spool goes down, which causes inconsistent extrusion. adding a filament guide with a bearing to adjust the angle for optimal pull and moving the spool as far out on the top rail as I could (halfway hanging over the edge, lol) has fixed the issue for me, though it must be noted that it wouldn't have if I was still using my faulty drive gear.

[@ashkebora7262]

Excellent video, thanks for going over the other various issues you troubleshooted despite them not being a cause. This kind of stuff is what separates commercial junk from pro equipment (well, besides higher grade materials, but we're talking about in-home 3d printers!). The price starts going up and up the more they pay attention to details, but if you know what details to go over yourself, you don't have to pay out the nose just so someone else actually cares about the product they're selling to you.

[@CeeKayz0rz]

Been playing with 3D printing since 2014. Today was the first day I was aware of extruder gear issues... What a difference in print quality simply setting tension and concentricity of the feed gear! :O

[@FelixMaximiliane]

Very helpful video! On my Cr-20pro the print quality was getting worse and worse. At the beginning it was excellent. But in the course of time the pinion became unbalanced by 0.2mm in opposit to the clamping screws. I suspect an effect of long-term stress. I replaced the pinion and now it prints in its old conditions. Many thanks!

[@TonyStark-ik9em]

Thank you for these important points to check! I'm about ready to to give up on my Voron 0.1 (LGX lite/Dragonfly) because my results are so incredibly inconsistent. Plate wobble will be the first thing i'll check before i need to roll up my sleeves and probably strip everything down to find the problem. So this video did give me a good jolt in the right direction, thx!

[@darkstrife421]

This channel has been a constant source of help, and insight. It really has helped me get to grips with all parts of the 3d print process. Great work as always!

[@CNCKitchen]

Glad to help!

[@Omniescent]

I can't wait till those inserts are worldwide! Thanks for the excellent video!

[@Eulemunin]

That’s an amazingly through set of issues to look at and how to fix them in a short timeframe. Great way to inform a community without assumptions of any level of knowledge.

[@RomanoPRODUCTION]

Stefan you're the Sherlock Holmes of DIY investigation. You'll win the Hitchcock award.

[@CNCKitchen]

🕵️ At your service.

[@elizabethshrum2216]

Finally! Someone covers the issue ive been having with my printer! 😁 Thank you so much! 😊

[@CNCKitchen]

Great to hear that! Share your story with us!

[@reverse_engineered]

Excellent video! I really like how you quickly went through a checklist of the kinds of things that could result in inconsistent layers and how to diagnose and repair them. I would love to see more videos covering different failure modes of 3D printers with steps for diagnosing and repairing them.

[@MoJoM0J01]

Wow, thanks for going through your thought process and all the non-causes you checked along the way! The video was very helpful, visual, and concise!

[@mikejones-vd3fg]

So cool to see a problem diagnosed and fixed.

[@TrentSnyder308]

Awesome walk-through of potential layer height inconsistencies! One of my printers has developed similar symptoms, and I'd not yet gone through the thought experiment to list possible problems and causes. I hope there's enough interest for at least a short video on fixing each, although some should be simple enough to spot and fix if you know what to look for. Herzlichen Dank! Es freut mich, daß es kluge Leute wie Sie gibt, die willens sind, ihre Erfindungen freilich mitzuteilen.

[@jayphone1]

I still have got the Cetus MK1. It was my second 3d printer. Once the mainboard broke and I got a replacement from tiertime which I never installed. My prints had some kind of regular z-wobble every 5 mm. Your video might inspire me to have a look at it again. The size of the printer was awsome.

[@CNCKitchen]

After this fix I really love it! Even quieter than am Prusa MK3 and top notch print performance!

[@jayphone1]

@@CNCKitchen Then I am looking forward to your video about replacing the mainboard. 🙂

[@SMOK3SCR3EN]

Yo thanks for keeping the ad short and simple to the point. Liked the video just for that

[@CNCKitchen]

I appreciate that! Also as a bonus - no midroll ads ;-)

[@markh2005]

That was a lot of detective work! Well done!

[@paperben]

Yea, cool vids pale. I fixed that on my Ender 5 Plus changing 2 things : - A lighweight direct drive extruder, the "Orbiter" - CURA -> Combing mode -> Within infill The Z-Hop mode if it's too high, like printing at 0.2 and Z-Hop at 0.4 can cause iregular layers because the nozzle can have a little difference when he back to print, like 0.01 or 0.02 difference. Sorry my bad english don't know if you understand what i mean. So for me i just deactivate this mode because you can use the combing mode that is way better if you dont print figurines or complex parts where the Z-Hop is necessary to avoid certain parts of the print. Regards

[@geomagicien9085]

Bravo Stefan! This is the hardest type of problem I've had to diagnose myself. Or at least, very similar. In my case I had bizarre movement caused on X and Y because of accumulated dirt inside the drive gear grooves, causing uneven tension on my axis, variating between just tight enough and too tight.

[@JamieBainbridge]

This is a great video. Your systematic method will surely be useful to others trying to solve similar problems. Of course you'd check everything and it would be the LAST thing you tried!

[@krashymegeefpv216]

Big help!!! This channel is now my go too to learn.

[@xagvsx1521]

had the same problem on one of my printers. Changed many extruder gears and payed attention to the allen bolt that tightens it, and after a while I got it right.

[@winandd8649]

I had a similar problem when building my 3d printer. The cause was the DRV8825 driver which i used for the extruder motor. It was just not turning smooth enough.. Replacing is with an old A4988 driver solved this issue completely! Note; i was using a Arduino Mega and Ramps 1.4 board with Marlin v1.0 I think this weird DRV8825 behaviour was the reason the TL-smoother boards where introduced later on..

[@johanneslode2006]

Moin Stefan, thanks for the well done findings you presented in this video. I had the same issue on my Ender-3-Pro, where the extruder wheel was prefitted onto the extruder motor axle as fixed press-fit (no lock screws). I was glad to get this fixed with your help and really low overhead. Now my print quality is as expected. After replacing the extruder wheel I ended up with a different observation, where I'm really keen, if this is an issue on your machines either: the new setup grabs the filament with a different spring load than before, so the transportation marks on the filament are of different depth for PLA as well for PETG and thus I need different E steps calibration for PLA and PETG. Before reworking my extruder drive, I had higher E steps values for PETG than for PLA (difference was ~1%), now I have higher E steps values for PLA than for PETG (difference depends on material, ranging from 0.5% up to 1.5%), all affecting slightly my extrusion width. Have you done some investigation on simelar issues?

[@FectacularSpail]

Wow, I would never have guessed at that being the root cause. But I think I learned quite a bit just from your in depth troubleshooting.

[@snerttt]

Really enjoyed this thorough investigation! I don’t think i have this issue on my ender 3, but at least i know where i should look if this ever is the case!

[@uniquebassin7206]

Omg!!!! This just started a month ago and I have been loosing my mind fixing everything that didn't need to be fixed lol.

[@David3o3]

I had this issue with my Sapphire Plus which uses a bmg clone. The set/grub screw had come loose and caused similar results but much worse lol. After I tightened it, near perfect prints as you experienced :) This problem was driving me crazy until I figured it out and it then made a lot of sense! Thanks for all your work on your videos. They're very helpful and informative!

[@GreenAppelPie]

E3V2 here, I had very good prints visually, but tighter mechanical prints were an issue, like an articulated joints were given me major issues when I print the models at 50%. I did a dual z stepper upgrade and now my prints are great!

[@imqqmi]

I immediately suspected the extruder, more specifically in the drive system or gear. I have a similar problem, still using 3d printed gears which tend to shrink after it's printed and may not be perfectly round. Haven't got around to building a proper one or replacing with an off the shelf part. Thanks for sharing your insights, very useful!

[@JoshKindhart]

I've been looking for a solution to this problem for so long. Thanks so much!

[@onsafari]

Brilliant. Although I never had the problem I really enjoyed your method and process of finding the problem.

[@mrclown7469]

I saw a new CNC Kitchen video in my feed, so I made a cup of coffee, and sat down to watch it. I took my first sip of coffee at 0:11 seconds... and then almost sprayed it everywhere when I saw 3D Stefan 🤣🤣🤣🤣👍

[@CNCKitchen]

Wekster did a great job there 😉

[@AbeFM]

Had a Prusa mk3, with paired bondtechs. Both were out of round, so when I closer idler door, I align the high spot with the low spot on the other gear. Makes a big difference, took a dial indicator to set up though.

[@StanEby1]

If anyone ever doubted your genius, they can't doubt it now. Whew!

[@HauntedCorpseGaming]

Gotta love the solutions that involve 3D printing a new part to fix the 3D printer. :D

[@CNCKitchen]

That's the spirit of the RepRap movement ;-)

[@TheLordSamoht]

Fantastic! this wasn't what I was looking for, but is definitely something I NEEDED!!! THANK YOU!

[@MartynDerg]

thank you so much for taking us on a dive into the troubleshooting process! this information is absolutely invaluable!

[@juliannesermon8057]

will have to look into this, I've actually really grown to like the Cetus, have done a couple modifications to it, maybe will do this one as well! Thank you for the detailed video!

[@jmtx.]

Thanks for a simple and systematic method of checking the various parts of a printer!

[@therising1]

Great job on the inserts Stefan! Thanks for the video!

[@steveh8724]

Thanks for this very interesting investigation! BTW, who would 'dislike' this video??

[@kaustuvakash2311]

I have the exact same problem, checked everything except wobbly gears, great find. Hopefully, this is the culprit.

[@ignaciobordafranz]

excellent video, you are a true scientist of 3d printing