Learning XLX2 calibration with RADIOLINK RC6GS

I had to reverse the throttle on my transmitter and then the XLX2 calibration protocol worked out just fine. I ALSO had to reverse my steering on my transmitter.
RADIOLINK RC6GS
XLX2 & 1100kv

[@Sicky-D]

Thaaank you, i had it in reverse also. I had the same problem, even with the ESC doing the same noises and lights as yours.

[@toysforboysrc]

You might want to check out my video that says rev, match solution fixed if you are using the XLX2. The radiolink settings that I explain in the video are going to let your vehicle run a lot smoother without glitching, like to ask Alex to tends to do.

[@CreateYourWorth]

Best video. I have the same issue. But mine went up in smoke lol. I am filing a warranty claim with them now....I was adjusting my settings and BOOM! I saw smoke and instantly and disconnected the wire.

[@toysforboysrc]

Omg man that sucks wtf you know.. also thanks, I’m humbled to know this video is saving lots of people stress and inconveniences that some experience with the XLX2 depending on their application. I also have an idea that is going to help prevent the power terminal posts on the XLX2 from being uprooted, which is another common issue… Very few people have had it covered under warranty and the majority of people have had to pay out of warranty for a replacement. Keep an eye out for the video when it comes out I’ll be putting it out soon because it was something that happened to me and I was able to get it replaced under warranty but not everybody will be as fortunate. So this concept is going to save a lot of speed controls!

[@96rchobby]

Thanks to this video. It saves my 2nd xlx2. My 1st was burned because of that throttle setting

[@toysforboysrc]

You are going to want to watch the “Rev-match” fix video next! You can’t miss it! It will save your transmission.

[@joeycrack509]

👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾 setting mine up today with kraton 1/5 exb 😆 great video I have the same transmitter

[@toysforboysrc]

You’ll have to reverse the throttle on the remote for it to work.

[@joeycrack509]

@@toysforboysrc yep thanks 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾... first test tomorrow 34t pinion 39t spur...

[@swaldoski]

That's a decent radio. Radiolink rc6gs I have one I run all my rcs...I put a range booster on mine..

[@toysforboysrc]

How far of reception with the booster and what’s it take to install that?

[@swaldoski]

@@toysforboysrc car was barely seen looked like a dot. It did have a little lag in the controls.I had to modify my controller with a small buck converter.(voltage droper or voltage + depends on how you use it.)I am using a 3s 1100mah lipo that powers the radio and the booster and the booster uses 5v so I came off the terminals inside radio to the buck converter used a multimeter to get it down to 5v. There should be a few KZbin videos on other ways to do this.(which may be easier) There are also other boosters that will run off the 3s battery . I just over engineered mine for some reason. There is no micro button for the 2.4 ghz antenna so you have to solder it on the board.My advice would be to look for the videos on the booster installation on the radiolink rc6gs.Good luck man.

[@toysforboysrc]

@@swaldoski …. Okay one of those e we bay digital screen bucks aight to look like a cool science project then the radio antenna goes into the booster? I’m not going to need a booster any time since I’m not even running 100mph yet but it’s good to have knowledge before hand 💪

[@yzfr1too]

I have thought about emergency unplug too 😂

[@toysforboysrc]

lol I was so worried about that fire defect. Everything turned out great, I’ve only ran it about 6 times since then bcs i want to keep it in good condition.

[@runngunrc1991]

I’m having issues mine won’t calibrate. I get red light bleeping when throttle it’s lights red an brake it lights green.

[@toysforboysrc]

You have to reverse the throttle on your remote. So right now the calibration is happening in reverse, gas is brake… you have to reverse the throttle on the remote.

[@runngunrc1991]

I’m about to try it now. When I tried it before it just goes back in forth. I also have a Futaba 7Px. Appreciate you replying regardless.

[@Blueknight1960]

I like the xlx2 but, the 1st one within 3 days, the negative wire broke off the board on the esc. Sent it in for warranty. They sent me a new one and now about 4 mos later, the same wire has come loose again except this time it's still connected to the esc. The xlx2 would be a perfect esc if castle would figure out how to connect the pos and neg wire more securely. Hope they warranty it again.

[@toysforboysrc]

….. ugh that’s horrible that sucks you had to deal with that disappointment. I know the feeling, I fell fortunate the xl2 I purchased was produced months after the whole recall and update. What are you running now?

[@Blueknight1960]

@@toysforboysrc Nothing at the moment. The 1st xlx2 I got was bought last Aug, so about 8 months ago. When sent in for warranty, it took about a month before I got it back. This failure happened last Saturday. Edit: The build date on mine is 11/21

[@koolassrick]

Hey what's up boss man what type of connectors are those?

[@toysforboysrc]

QS8… I did a lonnng demo on how to get a perfect crisp solder job and I lost all the footage during editing so it was only the calibration video. I have a brand new xlx2 that came in this Month so I’ll get to recreate that soldering video really soon. It’ll be right after the SKYLINE gets the HKS paint scheme.

[@koolassrick]

Tanks boss man I'm ordering these right now

[@toysforboysrc]

@@koolassrick …. Idk if you’ve ever soldered on the QS8 connectors but combined with the 6-8 gauge wire, they need (not a lot of heat) but instead a good iron that does not drop in temperature too easily. It’ll cause the person doing the job to spend more time trying to get the solder to melt enough to flow correctly and what happens is the heat just keeps traveling up the wires. Raz and Kev both had made statements that your wires will become stiff near the solder points because it’s solder flowing up inside the wires. That’s incorrect, that’s called heat soak and just the wires becoming frail. You can bend/flex the stiff portion of the wires and it’ll sound crispy and will become normal again. If the solder actually flowed up and through the wires, it would of also flowed at the soldering point much earlier and your job should had been complete before it had a chance to travel upward but like I said that’s false or else all rc electronics would have frail wires at the circuit board. My iron is a 60watt Weller with the dial control heat station and it does the QS8 job at turned up at 60%. It was like a $40 kit and the tip comes already tinned. You just need flux and solder. Use flux when Soldering your wires, and put only flux on the QS8 and no solder. Heat up your QS8 till the flux bubbles and re-heat your already soldered wire again to liquify the solder, then put the wire how you want it on the QS8 and it will only take 2 seconds liquify everything and it’s done. The only thing you’ll want to do is add MORE solder to it bcs you want to solder to be FLUSH, you don’t want to see any wire, even if it’s got solder on it, it should be a smooth puddle of solder and it’ll take some solder to do it. Once the bond is made when I said it’ll just take 2 seconds.., when you continue to add more solder from the spool, you don’t need to press down hard with the solder gun against the wire bcs there’s already a solder puddle and you’ll send the heat up inside the wire. Instead just hold the soldering iron close to the solder puddle and as you add more solder, let it hit the solder gun and melt and fall. Don’t touch the cold solder wire to the hot puddle bcs you’ll cool down the puddle and you’ll have a hard time. Once you have a FULL solder puddle, then at that point is the only time you want to press down with the iron and press the wire firmly into the Qs8 socket. Because everting is still hot, it should only take another 2 seconds to press, melt, position, and let off. You need a heavy work station with alligator clips to hold your stuff how you want it, or else forget about it lol. I’m doing a QS8 solder video next week after I paint the SKYLINE body if you want to wait.

[@youtubsuck]

Man, the stress. Does the aux wire really need to be connected?

[@toysforboysrc]

No not at all… that’s to allow you to make adjustments using you’re remote, what ever Chanel you plug the aux into is the Chanel you’ll use to make the adjustment. These adjustments are the same parameters you’ll see on castlelink but you can only assign one of them to the aux and your remote will let you adjust it with the channel you plugged the aux into. Of course you’ll have to enable the aux as “on” in castle link and also assign what parameter you want it is that you want to assign to the aux. you’ll want to use a channel that has a dial knob so you can fine tune the function rather than an off/on toggle switch unless the feature prefers that off/on function. Example “drag brake” which is when the car will slow down using automatic brakes on its own after you let off the throttle. The dial will let you determine how soft or hard it’ll stop on its own. If it’s on an off/on switch then you’ll have to (pre-select) the drag brake rate on castle link so that when you turn your toggle switch to (on) on your remote, you know the setting will always be the same. Another would be punch control, your ACTUAL brake percentage for when you physically stop the car on your own if you’re going from on road to off road stuff like that… now here’s something reallllly cool man… I’ve thought of this next one., do you know what dual rate is? It’s when you can control two channels with only one channel and you can adjust the percentage amount that the “second” channel responds simultaneously. Like when you hit reverse on your remote when you want to stop you’ll also be activating the servo on channel 3 to use the E-brake feature that the infraction has so that you don’t have to push the 3rd channel button which locks the E-brake all the sudden vs making it function like a real disc brake would. The dual rate feature has nothing to do with castle link. Instead it’s a feature that 99% of aftermarket radios offer like the 6 channel radiolink transmitter and it’s receiver. Sooooo to conclude what I was saying….. you know how on castlelink you can choose your motor timing for higher rpm? Well I thought we could assign the motor timing option to the aux wire and then assign the aux wire to any channel and then assign that channel as a dual rate with your throttle channel so that the more throttle you give the car the higher the timing goes and the more top end you’ll get without over heating everything bcs you not ALWAYS in high timing. From a dead stop your timing is low and you run cool and as you speed up and are already in motion, the higher timing will be more beneficial. Hope this was useful😎

[@youtubsuck]

Sir, thank you for that information because of your video I finally turned on my brand new xlx2. Everything said, I will be attempting that aux dual timing. I'm glad I bumped into your channel "subscribed!"

[@Blueknight1960]

@@toysforboysrc It right in the instructions to plug the aux wire in even if your not using the aux functions. So yes it needs to be plugged in.

[@toysforboysrc]

@blueknight …… im not using my aux bcs if I forget to unplug it when I use castle link it will damage my esc and receiver. The aux is also inactive (off) unless enabled in castle link. I leave it unplugged for safety precautions.

[@Blueknight1960]

@@toysforboysrc I'm just saying what's in the directions for the esc. I also made it a habit to unplug both wires before connecting castle link.

[@toysforboysrc]

HEY EVERYONE.. that was my first experience with castle products and I had to figure it out first.. HERE’S ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW…. #1. You do not need to plug the aux wire into anything, just ignore it for now. #2. Plug your RX wire into Chanel 2 (throttle). IMPORTANT: On you’re Radiolink remote you’ll need to (reverse) your throttle position switch to reverse. #3. Remote on first and hold throttle fully squeezed, don’t let go. #4. Power up the esc, the light will be red and it will beep 5 times and then immediately turn green. Soon as it turns green bring your throttle to full reverse and hold untill you hear a long solid BEEP. #5. When the light turns to yellow after the long solid beep you can let go of reverse. The calibration process is complete.

[@Moggmodels23]

Thanks mate for that information I bought my castle mamba xlx2 today I'm wireing up to my 30 degree north truck. Hopefully it won't catch on fire fir me. I will follow your advice bud but I have a flysky gt3b not the Same has your remote OK. Hope this still will work OK

[@kenny43rules]

Thank dude Been struggling with the XLX2 and the radio link But now is done... 🤘🏻

[@toysforboysrc]

@@kenny43rules …… I know my earlier videos are a little rusty before my channel started improving but I’m glad I was able to help this many ppl getting back into this hobby like I did.… you might want to check out my video with the XLX2 rev match problem solution because that’s going to be the next thing you’re going to run into.👉👉👉kzbin.info/www/bejne/e5eunJqMf5WVgpI

[@hottrodd1090]

Did you figure out how to calibrate?

[@toysforboysrc]

Yes I figured it all out in this video. I just needed to reverse the throttle position switch on the remote.