You've Been Living A Loctite Lie! (Maybe)

[@hpa101]

NGL, I put Loctite (blue) on a thread and then banged it in a blind hole about 3 hours before getting this video ready for release 😅 Now I know better! Thanks Matt - Taz. 👨‍🔧 Building a fast car? Get $400 OFF the all-inclusive VIP online course package deal: hpcdmy.co/hpavipbfc104 ✊50% OFF your first online engine building course. Enrol now: hpcdmy.co/enginebuildingb1af56

[@bryanshaw521]

Great content. Your KZbin channel could be a Discovery show.

[@wizrom3046]

It's perfectly fine to put the blue 243 on a bolt then screw it into a blind hole. I have done this for 30 years with motorcycles and you will still get good loctite penetration and hold. I try to put it on the end threads of the bolt, then by the time the bolt is fully screwed in it is right through the thread.

[@DavidCartwright-p8w]

You did fine. Especially if it is a fully formed thread like a Whitworth thread, as putting thread-lock at the bottom (like recommended) then causes it to hydro-Lock and can bust out thin areas of more brittle castings, especially if the pre-tap drill matches the minor radius (or less). Also when using heli-coiled blind holes, it doesn't work. The solution in both cases is a version of what you have done.

[@--_DJ_--]

I totally disagree with dripping it down the blind hole. That is asking for trouble. Maybe dribble a little down the side if you really want to, but I'll stick to putting it on the bolt. Haven't had any trouble doing that in my 25 years of turning wrenches for a living.

[@1dariansdad]

Why did you start your comment with NGL? Did you think that we would assume you were going to lie to us? Asking for a friend...

[@blalalabla]

From my time as an engine designer for Rolls Royce marine, we had alot of difficulty loosening used bolt in the exhaust system. After some research i found out that when you use anti seize/molybdensulfid on application where you exeed approx 800 degrees Celsius, it changes from disulfid to trisulfid. That means that the graphite goes from ball shape to pyramide.. also know as an abrasive..

[@MichaelMcGuinnKA24DE]

nickel, copper, or non metallic anti seize ftw.

[@24zer0nd]

my friend had multiple bolts sieze in his turbo after using anti seize, dont put common anti seize near that kind of heat

[@derekfromtauranga6012]

I used copper kote for exhaust manifold bolts on all petrol and diesel engines plus on turbo charger mounting studs/bolts and had good success with that when I worked as a mechanic over 30yrs ago.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Yeah I don't use it on hot things ,but I like some nice cv joint grease instead of anti seize for any other fasteners. Can't stand the typical aluminum chips and grease trash, but the copper is nice on exhaust stuff.

[@Z-Ack]

Antisneeze is an abrasive as it is period.. no heat needed. Try loading up a bearing with it instead of grease. They will seize up quick.. the moly is a great grease but with the aluminum or copper stuff that is in the antiseize acts as an abrasive.. not sure on the science behind how it works but im pretty sure at a tightened state those aluminum or copper fills act as a filler which with the moly will remain movable but when you heat or continue to move it then it will turn the balls into more of a compact shape which actually seizes when moved. Valve lapping compound is kind of like antiseize with non uniform additives making it more abrasive from the start..

[@brarautorepairs]

My transmission teacher wanted to show us how to take apart a GM 4T80 and a 4L60 and some students decided to red loctite every single bolt beforehand 😂. He was swearing and cussing the entire time in class.

[@Equiluxe1]

I knew a farmer who used bearing fit on bolts on a caterpillar sump. When it came to removing the sump again he wrung every bolt off and the block had to go away for the bolts to get spark machined out.

[@xb70valkyriech]

@@brarautorepairs A+ prank

[@richardahola692]

@@Equiluxe1 That does not sound smart. I rarely use red, I'm always taking stuff apart

[@rickcrotts6673]

😂😂good one. I used to brush anti seize on people's door handles

[@brarautorepairs]

@@rickcrotts6673 At college, they had a big tub of Vaseline. The kids would take it and smear it all over the place 😂. You would fall asleep in class, they would apply it to your hands and tickle your nose. Damn, 😩, you would be smearing it all over your own face.

[@3rdpig]

I like red on helicoil inserts into stripped threads on aluminum parts and then blue on the fastener going into the insert. This has worked for many years for me. The fastener won't come loose and the helicoil won't pull out with the fastener.

[@christopherlenahan3906]

Nothing worse then a spinning helicoil or rock-solid!!

[@Bobi_Rudi]

@@3rdpig how about green on helicoil? 😁

[@HalfdeadRider]

@@Bobi_Rudi Was about to say the same. Also in some cases not mentioned in the video (apart from on bolts in very hot areas), no loctite should/needs to be used, on motorcycle brakes for instance we use blue on discs and nothing on caliper mounting bolts.

[@158158cow]

@@HalfdeadRider Is this due to the temperature exposure? I recall seeing red loctite called for on STI Brembo brakes, but I refused to use it. Dealership must’ve used it previously since the threads on one bolt tore out. Galvanic corrosion can also be a concern. MTB forks have magnesium lowers, so I’ve used blue loctite (if using stainless hardware) to reduce galvanic corrosion. Some OE steel bolts come with loctite / nylon patches.

[@HalfdeadRider]

@@158158cow I think it is more due to them being static, they don't tend to vibrate lose as some potentially could, and they won't get near as hot as the disc bolts. Also with proper regular maintenance I find stainless does not really need protection from galvanic corrosion, I have many stainless steel hardware on my old Ninja, some natural some black oxide.

[@wizrom3046]

Blue 243 is the stuff! Just use it on everything, especially on motorcycles. Bolts will always release with normal tools, but NEVER come loose. It also stops corrosion so the bolts never rust in or gall, good for motorcycles where bolts are often exposed to rain. And it sets up fine on stainless bolts, probably 90% of the bolts on my old Harleys are 316 or 304 stainless. The only time I use other loctite is special red for inside the engine (hot) as specified in the service manual, and occasionally use green for a stud that you never want to get out again. But every bolt on my old bikes gets blue 243, just buy a big bottle of it and keep it with your tools. 👍

[@peppedpd]

@@wizrom3046 I do exactly the same as you and it never fail. Wideglide 1999

[@ForfeMac]

243 is awesome because it's oil tolerant, which means you don't need to blast every bolt and hole with brake cleaner before you assemble. Granted, I used 242 for a lot of years without cleaning anything before assembly and rarely had issues, but it's just the piece of mind for me.

[@wizrom3046]

@@ForfeMac yeah yoou don't need to clean the bolts, and don't even need to clean the previous loctite off the bolts, just a couple drops fresh 243 then tighten up the bolt. If you ever wonder why new bikes never get a loose bolt its because the factory puts 243 on every chassis bolt, so to me, that 243 makes my vintage Shovelhead as reliable as a new bike (well I also completely re-wired the electricals haha)

[@konarider9472]

The other advantage is that 243 has a primer agent built in. 242 required the use of a primer on inactive metals or coatings but the new 243 does it all. Very good stuff indeed.

[@HalfdeadRider]

Don't use it on everything, for example use it on your brake discs but use nothing on your caliper mounting bolts, just not needed, not needed on front and rear axles, fairing bolts etc etc.

[@jameshaulenbeek5931]

Working on locomotives, we had a couple rebuilt by a shop. The first time we had to service the traction motors, we found they completely doused the traction motor mounting bolts with red loctite. 1-3/8" diameter bolts, torqued to 1200 lb-ft, that are supposed to be assembled with anti-seize. 😀 They were very fun to remove, as we couldn't use heat. Large breaker bar and a forklift.

[@hpa101]

That must have been a bit nerve wracking!

[@christopherlenahan3906]

271 Red actually acts like blue(strength wise) on large bolts. They spec red as permanent up to 1". Still a bit of a mess to free up, but strength wise. Loctite on bolts meant to be anti-seized would truly have been a task though.

[@Chezboi30003]

Now I don't feel so bad about having to stand on the lug wrench to change a car tire.

[@localeightironworker]

we had a similar screwup at work, ended up using a large comealong on the end of a 4' pipe wrench

[@sixhunt]

crossthreading is the only way to keep fastners tight !

[@lebojay]

@@sixhunt A cross-threaded fastener is a tight fastener!

[@douchenozzlemcgee6111]

@@sixhunt Nature's locktite

[@elebeu]

My old time mechanic friend used to say "Cross thread it, better than two lock washers.".

[@joehighsmith2951]

@@sixhunt aman

[@Usualsuspect420]

@sixhunt hammer the threads can work pretty good too!

[@glennthompson4166]

The big problem i have with loctite is the packaging being the bottles should be more clearly marked regarding the colors , mabey have red lids or blue lids etc etc

[@kirkdarling4120]

Very much agree.

[@hpa101]

It does catch people out. They really need to pay attention to the number/writing rather than just the colour alone noting all the technical data sheets from Loctite are also well detailed and accessible by the phone in your pocket while you're looking at the Loctite shelf. 'Trust, but verify' is the applicable saying 🤘 - Taz.

[@donQpublic]

Also agreed

[@wallymurray620]

Thanks, great info!

[@dannyw7662]

Especiall when the label gets worn off.

[@brianevans6819]

Rust is my thread locker. In the mid-west, it works amazingly well at not letting bolts loosen up, EVER! 🤣

[@For_What_It-s_Worth]

Heard of an old farmer who would disassemble new equipment and put salt on the threads for that very reason!

[@toejam503]

Loctite needs to bring back the BLUE bottle for Blue loctite. I keep my threadlockers in the same drawer,on my toolbox, and it's not a quick read to figure out which one I end up in my hand, especially if there's dirt and grease on the tube or bottle.

[@JamesDoylesGarage]

WOW. The most definitive tutorial on Loctite, I have ever seen. Thank you both Andre from HP and Matthew from Henkel.

[@johnbarker5009]

I've been a fan of the blue Loctite forever. Not only does it usually work just fine, but it also helps keep rust from creeping in and ruining the components when disassembling.

[@raymondreiff8170]

Best comment here 🇺🇸💪

[@derekfromtauranga6012]

When I was working as a mechanic in a rock quarry with a mixed fleet of cars, utes, trucks, loaders, dump trucks, drilling rigs, bulldozers over 30yrs ago I used loctite extensively when I was assembling engines and equipment. Used 680, 243, pipe sealant, high flex gasket, green retaining compound and never seize compound. I’m sure there are a lot more in the range nowadays. I don’t really remember the blue loctite it may have come out later. When I rebuilt engines I always used high temp thread locker on big end bolts/nuts and never had an engine failure in all the engines I rebuilt over 15yrs I worked there. It’s important for threads to be clean and brakecleen was my go to for degreasing bolts and blowing dry with compressed air. Loctite is expensive but a great product!

[@derekfromtauranga6012]

@ just an extra layer of protection. 😀

[@bluegizmo1983]

Whatever you do, just make sure you absolutely _DO_ use the permanent red thread locker on all Phillips head screws that hold the brake rotors in place!! It makes it fun for future mechanics working on it 😂

[@Kj16V]

Also, be sure to _really_ tighten those screws. If you don't see metal shearing out of the screw head, you're not tightening it enough.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Me and dad were doing a bunch of work on his 17 KTM rc390. After about the 5th difficult bolt we removed and noticed tons of loctite , we knew if a bolt felt tight give it a little heat from a heat gun and be careful of paint. A little bit of heat helps a lot

[@Z-Ack]

Nah, you gotta get a box of those screws they use on bathroom stalls.. the one way kind.. thatll really make em end up buying you a new rotor after they attack it with a hammer..

[@user-se7vt5ow4e]

Why do they put blue in a red bottle?

[@hannahranga]

Bearing retainer works great as an alternative if you're out of red

[@HanksDeuce]

For a high vibration environment (e.g. driveshaft, suspension) I use Nord-Lock wedge-locking washers instead of thread sealant. No cleaning. No priming. No heat to remove.

[@hpa101]

They are a good thing too 🤘 - Taz.

[@RedmistAU]

Nord-Locks are simply the best form of lock washer available, fantastic product.

[@MrTheHillfolk]

Try some 3m yellow weatherstrip adhesive,it's like 3/4 the strength of blue from what I hear and it doesn't cause possible corrosion

[@supersportimpalass]

Wow never heard of that lock washer before. There is an application at work we have trouble with the bolts coming loose I think they would work great for.

[@pjladd04]

Belleville washers are a good alternative too!

[@harrismagnum04]

what he didn't mention is thread locker is a good antiseize

[@EZ-D-FIANT]

@@harrismagnum04 only on bolts that don't get too hot, it will do the opposite on an exhaust for example

[@-IE_it_yourself]

5:20 i love when a company could tell you wo use 5x more of the product but is honest with the customer and tells them exactly what they need.

[@gorporpio]

Nobody ever does it. People always use more. It psychological problem no one's ever addressed.

[@-tr0n]

Blue loctite is great. Sealing the threads is also an anti-corrosion method for harsh weather areas. The prep spray is NO JOKE for anyone using anaerobics. It sets up in about 4 seconds and creates a much stronger more consistent bond, and allows you to do things like pre-setup anaerobic pipe sealant for installation in oil soaked areas. Oil can be flowing out of a hole and it will seal.

[@elebeu]

Great job conducting this interview! You asked a variety of important questions in a logical and organized manner, and even made sure that the representative explained various points to us, the viewer with limited knowledge.

[@Wrighmachining]

Thanks for the indepth video . Stainless not working on regular loctite . New info thabks again

[@stellarpod]

Very useful segment. I spent my entire career working in a valve manufacturing environment, in both Engineering and Sales. We intuitively understood the proper product and application for thread lockers. But I cannot tell you how many times I've watched people slather on far too much Loctite than necessary. I always counseled to use only 2-3 drops but was mostly ignored by the old-timers who thought they knew better. Also, I've cautioned people many times that you should be using "blue" Loctite, rather than "red", for 90% of your applications, really only using red when you anticipated NEVER needing to remove the fastener. So, it was nice to hear my understanding confirmed directly from Loctite. As always, thanks much for sharing. Steve

[@RandomPasserby-l5x]

Interesting. I use purple 222 a lot. It is super useful for stuff on classic cars in places where you really cannot use higher torque. For example threads into aluminium on viscous fan clutches, alternators and valve covers. Recently I discovered old Porsches seem to use one specific Castrol TA anti-seize everywhere with aluminium threads and I am huge fan. Seems to make masive different on smaller bolts like M6 that snap or gall super easy with even hint rust.

[@alb12345672]

I have a German made V6 OHV on My Ford Explorer and there were two steel (m6 or m8) bolts that thread into the AL throttle body intake that snapped off (holds a shroud). When I drill them out I'll use a bit of AS. This engine uses E-torx bolts so def not an American Design :lol:

[@hannahranga]

I toss anti seize on pretty much everything, makes life much nicer next time. Just have to reduce your torque a bit else you'll have issues

[@thedaveking]

I just mix all the colors together to make Loctite Brown for the best of all worlds holding the roller coaster track segments down here at the fairgrounds.

[@localeightironworker]

is loctite brown a 'the bigger the gob, the better the job' or a 'less is more' kind of schmoo?

[@thedaveking]

​@@localeightironworker More is more when it comes to Loctite #2, or any #2 really.

[@DungeonMetal]

Incredibly informative as always. I believe this topic was brought up about ten podcasts ago or so as well. Many thanks.

[@Ziptietechnician]

I just wish they would put blue thread lock in a blue container.

[@erict3728]

This was really a brilliant idea for a video. Great interview that can impact many people in many different fields

[@matross-munro8508]

Finally... i dont feel nuts using blue more than red

[@jondoe4667]

I try not to use red at all if I can help it. I hate having to use heat to remove it or risk snapping the head off a bolt.

[@benmorris1657]

I dunno, I prefer my nuts red over blue

[@aw6545]

@@matross-munro8508 lmaoooooo, I've been trying to tell people for years 🤣🤣

[@matross-munro8508]

@aw6545 haha the silent hero Red is just most consumers default settings. My father got me to use red 15 years ago saying "just use it for everything" and it became a nightmare within weeks when i was trying to learn, alot of people I knew used it and I started using both, blue for more frequently serviced items and kept using red for heavy duty and not often serviced items. Never needed purple but ca understand uses use case. Mind you I've just been a hobbyist for the last 15 years.

[@mattbush315]

@@matross-munro8508 am I just really lucky? I have never broken or damaged a bolt from using red loctite and also never use heat. Is that really a thing? The only things I avoid put it on are screws heads or bolts smaller than m6.

[@marcos.1771]

FYI, the 243 is blue, in your video it's red. I have been using Loctite 243 forever, and I am totally satisfied when using it on threads for my bicycles and motorcycles. Fantastic product.

[@POVmotorsport]

are you telling me i`ve doing it wrong the whole time?? You are suposed to put it INSIDE the hole? dam I feel sad hahahaha

[@Prperformance1]

Can you please tag Ford motor company in this video, they need a lesson in loctite 101 😂

[@ghostwrench2292]

1000 likes for that comment!

[@BrokenRepublic]

Yellow loctite on brake calipers.. c'mon!

[@MikeF421]

A gallon of blue on each cab mount bolt.

[@beaverc2884]

@Prperformance1 like other automotive companies don't have that problem. 🙄

[@tullgutten]

Yes. Literally just 10 hours ago i had to use the oxy torch to glow out brake caliper holder bolts on a shitty Volve in the rear.... Rusted almost rounded heads and thread LOADED with locktite....

[@timjohnun4297]

One thing I noticed, in the animations they show the nozzle being touched against the metal of the fasteners, while applying. This is what causes the nozzle to get blocked up (The Loctite drops on the end of the nozzle react to the metal and start to harden). If you simply drop the Loctite onto the fastener, your nozzle will never block up. Learnt this during an official Loctite demonstration.

[@jimf671]

Way back in the seventies when I was doing workshop training, we did the brazed bar experiment (cut a 10x10mm steel bar then braze it back together in a 3 to 1 joint). After that, it is firmly in your mind how to create a strong brazed, soldered or glued joint. In my earliest design jobs, this became very useful as engineering adhesives were just becoming more common and easy to obtain. An early application was the bed of a machining fixture that was assembled with anaerobic adhesive instead of hundreds of tiny screws. Later, anaerobics were used not just to prevent loosening but to prevent crevise corrosion and guarantee the forces of disassembly. Other adhesives were used to seal marine electronic pods and assemble polyolefin and PVC parts. Many of the products were from Loctite but there is now a wide range of suppliers in this market.

[@Jonathan_Doe_]

I was working in a highly regulated industry. Someone had messed torquing some bolts up, so everyone was going through a remedial training session about fasteners. Someone chimes in with “How much loctite should we use on fasteners that need it? SOP doesn’t state an amount.” Completely stumped the guy doing the training, he didn’t know, and he looked mortified because an auditor could have had them shut down by posing the same question.

[@manbunmyname5866]

Refrigeration? NH3? lol, those SOP's

[@exvils]

thing with active metals and primers is red loctite will bind with metal atoms and interlock. Something like corroding metal so it has surface to grab on to. Primers help with that when bolt has zinc coating - or black oxide coating or other. I only ever bought blue loctite, i had small used tube of red from friend but i only use that on small (M3,M4,M5) bolts that will never be unbolted (fasteners for 3d prints as for holders or structural stuff inside prints - e.g. fuse and relay boxes). Also amount of drops depends on fastener diameter, one drop is enough to coat whole M3 bolt while for M20 five or six may be enough)

[@KurtisPape]

I used normal red loctite on my exhaust manifold and it's worked long term! I had 3 bolts that kept coming loose because I couldn't torque them down correctly, put some thread locker on them and it has been good for years. I couldn't torque the bolts down because of the bad designed manifold, all I could use was a cut down ring spanner.

[@jdbennett8864]

I’m also a big fan of their gasket material (518) for sealing up motorcycle cases (also in conjunction with the OEM gasket, ie using as gasket dressing versus using RTV)

[@hpa101]

Great tip! What makes you prefer it over RTV out of interest? - Taz.

[@TurboHappyCar]

Good stuff and great interview. I use blue loctite (248, semi-solid stick) on nearly everything on my track car. Wheel studs and exhaust components get anti-seize. 👍

[@mccslawg]

Great questions on all points. Thank you for educating me

[@MattLitkeRacing]

Loctite has free training on their website. It’s a good overview if people aren’t familiar

[@dannyw7662]

Under what heading? for the training info?

[@MattLitkeRacing]

It’s called Loctite Xplore

[@hpa101]

www.henkel-adhesives.com/ro/en/services/resources/consulting-and-training/loctite-xplore.html

[@druegeme]

Each bottle or tube of loctite also comes with instructions. They tell you everything you need to jnow really.

[@kathysarmcandy1992]

Blue, for crankshaft flywheel bolts that go thru to the oil slinger. Red for your mower deck parts.

[@WyFoster]

Honestly, these are literally life saving products. Loctite rocks!

[@alouiciousjackson5812]

Good info. Btw, for high heat applications there is an anti-vibration compound called Rocksett that works very well.

[@halloyoutubers7047]

Great to noticed at 6:00 is what I always teach to new operators. In my case it’s also based on that glue detection is not allowed. Our loctide btw does contain indicators that lights up under UV light.

[@coolguy23448]

I’ve used RED loctite on all my NPT thread connections for all my racing applications for many years. It’s the only thing that will seal extremely well no matter what I’m sealing against. 👍

[@aaronlangevin322]

Bad info on the blind hole installation. Theres no guarantee you'll actually engage the locker if its in the bottom of the hole. Also gives you inconsistent thread lubrication, which is huge deal for fastener torque values. Put the locker on the bolt threads near the tip, and send it. Also incredibly important to prevent galling on stainless hardware.

[@noxious89123]

Also because fluid in a blind hole can create extreme pressure when the bolt is inserted and tightened. It can create enough pressure to crack cast parts.

[@MarzNet256]

@@noxious89123 Yup.

[@Tsimi1234]

Yeah I would be really nervous putting any sort of liquid inside a bolt hole with no space for it to vent out when the bolt is bottomed and then torqued even lightly... Best case scenario the bolt doesnt sit properly in its hole and worst case scenario you cause enormous pressure until metal cracks. What I do is apply a drop to the tip of the bolt and wipe any excess off around the bolt so that only first 2-3 full thread grooves of the bolt have visible locktite

[@geoffreycasey875]

@@noxious89123 i have done it..

[@hpa101]

@@geoffreycasey875 with 2 drops of Loctite? Or was there more of something else in there? Sorry to make you rehash this nightmare haha, but share your experience so others scrolling by can learn from it too if you have a moment 😎 - Taz.

[@brian_dc2]

Surprised not to hear a mention of orange! Orange is great as it has the properties of red but serviceability of blue!

[@davidfrank2824]

I never knew that powder was part of the loctite. Seen it all the time I just thought it was perhaps a different metals reacting. I'm going to text a couple friends of mine and send them this video to see if they knew that.

[@d46512]

Great questions, and knowledgeable rep!

[@wisenheimer66]

I thought a very good & informative video. Good questions & good straight answers. I’m a mechanic by trade & am frequently amazed how most mechanics don’t know how to use thread locker correctly. Regardless of brand…

[@stephenlea5765]

I just learned about orange loctite & was hoping it’d be discussed. I don’t know how new it is. “combines the strength of Red threadlocker with the removability of Blue”

[@thewhiteknight02]

I put the red on my wheel studs. When I torched the lug nuts two of the four tires started on fire. I called the hotline to see if there was a remover. I’m gonna use the blue next time.

[@hpa101]

We all live and learn! Hope the only thing damaged was a bit of pride 😎 - Taz.

[@William-Bill-Munny]

Vibra-tite 444 has been my go to on all high pressure fittings for a commercial pressure washing rig. Lots of fittings under constant high temp water(180deg) at 4,000psi with about 100 cycles per day. As long as the threads are clean and a 24hr cure time is used I have nearly zero down time for leaks - for me this has almost eliminated thread tape. Nothing is perfect but Im as close as I can get.

[@rastavelli]

From my experience in high temp application, blue holds much better than red. At high temp, blue still retains its gue/gummy form which acts as a resistance, while red turns into dust and completely loses any ability to apply resistance to the spin.

[@SilverStarHeggisist]

Loctite's sleeve retention compound saved my front diff when I spun a bearing.

[@SilverStarHeggisist]

TO better clarify, front axle housing. I rebuilt the front diff itself.

[@fazzeg3]

Blue loctite the way to go, always used it on certain aspects where required, you don’t need a lot just a few drops. red for me is a no go it’s way too strong and have had issues stripping bolts or ruining inside of the core specifically being aluminium you don’t want to go anywhere near it.

[@k-mc94]

Natures threadlock - crossthreading 😂

[@chazparker2488]

Being in the aerospace/defense sector. Primer T is used on every fastener and every bolt. Good stuff and helps the loctite set up quicker Also would have been nice to skim over not only thread locker vs sealant. Good stuff nonetheless the less

[@ben501st]

Something useful about threadlocker is that it's not a lubricant. This is important for tightening fasteners with torque wrenches.

[@mmholling87]

@ben501st Great tip! Most torque specs are based on clean, dry threads. Lubricants lead to over tightening.

[@hpa101]

There is a comment below on this from a Loctite employee. Hopefully they come back with a bit more regarding the testing they've done too which led to their recommendations - Taz. "@hpa101 I'm a big fan of your channel, courses and podcast, so I'm glad to give back a little :) I'm gonna talk to the guys in the office if I can share documentation on that. What I've heard from the lab is that you do not change the torque settings on your torque wrench whether you use Loctite or not. In most applications the torque of a bolt or nut is defined by its own properties (e.g. size, strength like 8.8 or 10.9 and friction coefficient). This is why you want to use different kinds of Loctite depending on your applications. Usually the bigger the bolt the higher torque is set, so the higher strength of Loctite you want to use. This is because even when tightening down a nut to a bolt, there will be tiny gaps of air between the threads. The smaller the threads, the smaller the air gaps, thus the threadlocker needs to be of lower viscosity to not be pushed out of the threads. For automotive applications you can use blue Loctite 243 in almost all of the cases though. For reference: If you torque a bolt to 100nm and let it settle for 24h, you'll only need about 70-80% of the torque to loosen it again. If you use Loctite 243 it will stay at about 100nm for ever. Anything below 243 will also prevent loosening from vibration but might not reach 100% of the original torque. Anything above 243 will increase the torque needed to loosen the bolt."

[@dirtydieselguy]

Orange is my go to thread locker, high strength removable

[@egx161]

I like the blue for sealing threads on the PCv oil resistant version. The red requires high heat and I don’t use it often.

[@mondecruel1866]

didnt knew about purple one

[@billmago7991]

use on every thread on your shovelhead. the factory service manual has a whole page dedicated to Loctite👍

[@philmccracken2012]

All great questions and all great answers! Thank you

[@spudboyQ]

Great video and great rep.

[@bbq_boards]

I think it is worth mentioning that the torque specifications and requirements per bolt grade, class, diameter, thread pitch, etc. and the fastener pairing (nut, nut with washer, blind hole, etc.) are affected when loctite is used as it effectively becomes a lubricant and therefore the "lubricated torque value" (which is typically larger than the dry value) from the bolt manufacturer's chart should be used to secure the fasteners.

[@hpa101]

Here's some info from another comment, hope it helps for now - Taz. @hpa101 I'm a big fan of your channel, courses and podcast, so I'm glad to give back a little :) I'm gonna talk to the guys in the office if I can share documentation on that. What I've heard from the lab is that you do not change the torque settings on your torque wrench whether you use Loctite or not. In most applications the torque of a bolt or nut is defined by its own properties (e.g. size, strength like 8.8 or 10.9 and friction coefficient). This is why you want to use different kinds of Loctite depending on your applications. Usually the bigger the bolt the higher torque is set, so the higher strength of Loctite you want to use. This is because even when tightening down a nut to a bolt, there will be tiny gaps of air between the threads. The smaller the threads, the smaller the air gaps, thus the threadlocker needs to be of lower viscosity to not be pushed out of the threads. For automotive applications you can use blue Loctite 243 in almost all of the cases though. For reference: If you torque a bolt to 100nm and let it settle for 24h, you'll only need about 70-80% of the torque to loosen it again. If you use Loctite 243 it will stay at about 100nm for ever. Anything below 243 will also prevent loosening from vibration but might not reach 100% of the original torque. Anything above 243 will increase the torque needed to loosen the bolt.

[@TillURide420]

Red loctite is the best way to reseal you oil pan bolts and also works great on you oil and fuel filters and even helps with spark plugs

[@andywishaw3213]

I've used blue. I've used red but on motorcycles. I like loctite pipe thread dope on aluminum to be able to back everything out and hold weirdly

[@conradsealy9603]

I rarely ever used the red thread locker. I use the blue most times and never on exhaust studs or bolts.

[@hpa101]

Good man!

[@ghostwrench2292]

I use red on brake caliper bracket bolts and suspension components.

[@alan-sk7ky]

For occasional use at home to keep your threadlocker good for longer, keep it in the fridge when you aren't using it ;-)

[@hpa101]

Great tip! I do that with some glues too like Loctite 480 as that goes off very quickly at room/workshop temperature - Taz.

[@redstarsrbija]

I very rarely use red. Blue most of the time, but I might go to purple now. Didnt know that was a thing.

[@AJ-oj5eu]

4:00 if you have a friend that puts threadlocker on exhaust bolts....get a new friend.

[@dogle9258]

Thinking about ARP coated bolts and the reason why they say not to use red thread locker. Hmm.🤔 now it makes sense.

[@GameOfMorphs]

careful with the blind holes, you can crack an break shit

[@GTStuning-]

I was always warned about this, like having blind holes that get coolant in them, risk of cracking if you tighten them enough where liquid material is still trapped with nowhere to go. I haven't personally seen a failure from this but believe the risks, and always dry the threads out.

[@GameOfMorphs]

@@GTStuning- yep, coolant, oil, anything that's not compressible basically.. it's gotta go somewhere..

[@alb12345672]

@@GameOfMorphs Best to blow out blind holes but in most cases threads don't seal, it will be pushed out.

[@GTStuning-]

"In most cases" is not reassuring enough lol, as there will be failures from this.

[@geoffreycasey875]

​@@GTStuning-It has happened to me when I started to work on motorbikes.. actually broke a piece off but got away with it and learned from it .i stick a cotton bud down them now to make sure nothing is there

[@pconrz]

I had a large bolt loaded with red then after cure another adjustment was needed. It DID free with hand tools, but it wasn't fun.

[@wayne9518]

50 years ago loctite came to my tech school. Learned about about the products and proper users. A year later they must have come back. I was talking to a locksmith friend of my dad’s. (foreshadowing), he had the job of drilling and replacing a couple hundred door locks. Someone filled them with Loctite.

[@simonlegall2135]

Thread locker, anti-seize, brake cleaner and grease are a few of the products I end up having to buy while in the middle of a project, I buy the large bottle, can or tube and use it once and then it gets used up or goes missing.

[@hpa101]

@simonlegall2135 I hear ya! We buy 20l of brake clean at a time now to help avoid that issue 😂 - Taz.

[@AndyDufresne4]

Probably one of the most miss used products out there. Right up there with Q-tips.

[@jabberwockytdi8901]

Wow I had no idea people were so slap happy with the red , always use blue and red is just for when you really need that level of permanence.

[@Richard_L_Y]

Always use thread lock, so threads WILL loosen and come off again, rather than NOT loosen and NOT come off again - i.e. for its anti-corrosive properties!

[@Comm0ut]

I use nothing but red for personal vehicle (including motorcycles which are delicate compared to cars) but quantity is key. I've had no (and I do mean no as in zero) problems even on parts that have been joined over 30 years. However if one is willing to pay for positive retention that means aircraft safety wire and/or tab lock washers which provide positive retention. As the USAF puts it (I'm a retired engine troop among other things) safety wire "maintains torque" which I can vouch for in person. Safety wire does not change the torque required to release a fastener nor does it abrade threads which matters on multi-million dollar engines.

[@TheGforcead]

Main bearings and head bolts I was taught many racers use milk of magnesia on main bearing and head bolts, it lubricates them for correct torque and dries and prevents corrosion. I don't know if it is okay to use it with the new "Torque to yeild"head bolts, some say lubricate, some say torque them using just clean bolt and threads, do what head gasket manufacturer recommends to get correct torque!

[@PilotMcbride]

Still got a pack of blue loctite (unopened) I bought 15 years ago. Never used the stuff, torque wrench and tightening to specs have looked after me so far. Worked on heavy elec switchgear, vehicles, weapons, all sorts of gear since the early 70s. But then again, I'm the World's messiest glue user as well. 🤣

[@mrsam5350]

Excellent video, thanks

[@crabapple1974]

Ohh have been looking for something like this! Now I know better what to use 👌 I have used a lot of Loctite on IKEA-furniture😅 esp on chairs etc where you have a lot of movement and loadshifting. IKEAs fasteners are not great.

[@Stephen_Ellis]

Today I learned.

[@GroovesAndLands]

No expert, but we go through about a dozen 250 mL bottles of 262 (red) per year, here. In my experience, you only get that super duper retention if the threads are perfectly clean and primed. If all threads are perfectly prepped you'll break something before getting the fastener out. But most fasteners lying around your shop won't be perfectly clean or primed. 262 in this case WILL be removeable.

[@fox1nz]

I did Loctite seminar as a Young fitter in the early ninties, was Good education

[@mohabatkhanmalak1161]

Good, usefull information, thanks for posting.🌎

[@Hogzsnotzv2]

35 yr aircraft tech…. We almost never use lock tite , safety wire,cotter pins, nuts with run on torque. Heat counters locktite. As a hobby machinist green for bores and blue and low strength purple is my go to for just about all other applications

[@G_Fresh_]

Something I wish loctite would cover is not using loctite on bolts to hold in polycarb/plexiglass plastics. It causes cracking and failure of the plastic.

[@spelunkerd]

Just to see how powerful my little bottle of locktite blue is, I coated a handful of 1/4" nickle plated bolts, tightened down and waited 24 hours. Those nuts threaded off with no difficulty at all! I wondered if the active compound had settled out, or whether locktite goes bad over a few years. Perhaps I should start using primer?

[@hpa101]

It does go bad, but as mentioned in the video you might need to use a primer. Here's their quick note on primers noting some compounds also include the primer rather than you needing a bottle of something else - Taz. ""We recommend the use of primer where both the parts come under the category of 'inactive surfaces'. These metals lack the iron or copper content and thus the metallic ions that are required to fully cure the product within 24 hours. These inactive surfaces include plated parts, stainless steel, galvanized steel and anodized aluminium to name a few. On the other hand, in case both or at least one part is an active metal, then there is no need to use a primer to ensure full cure, which is typically within 24 hours at room temperature." - www.tryloctite.in/faq" Hope that helps!

[@AtalixZero]

Great information. Great tips as well.

[@jasonburnham1013]

Blue for everything, green for someone you hate.

[@ALLOFTHEBOOST]

What a fantastic video. The simplifying of his answers to make it more understandable in our situations I thought was the best part. I did know a fair bit of what was said but refreshing is always great.

[@Diggzzy13]

Well bugga😅I feel sheepish! Thanks for the great content HPA!

[@mitchf01]

Would have been really interesting to talk about the effect of using loctite on bolts with a specific torque value, and also about the effect of age of compound and its effect on torque value

[@LineMUp321]

Ok, I knew most of this, but I legit do not know why I never put thread lock *INTO* a blind hole before threading in a bolt.

[@hpa101]

Yeah that is a new one for me too. Seems so obvious with hindsight 😂 - Taz.

[@bavarianmonkey8326]

@@hpa101 there certainly is somebody out there who uses enough loctite to explode the blind hole with the hydraulic pressure caused by tightening the bolt...

[@hpa101]

@bavarianmonkey8326 you can do anything wrong. Doesn't mean you shouldn't stop doing things right incase someone else gets it wrong though eh - Taz.

[@snoofayy6150]

​@@LineMUp321 for me, it's still intuitive to dab it onto the threads of the bolt, I'll probably get over it and start making it habit to do it the "proper" way but I'm so cautious of not putting something that could hydraulic lock in the bottom of a threaded hole lol

[@For_What_It-s_Worth]

@@snoofayy6150 : As long as the volume of incompressible liquid is small compared to the clearance volume left in the hole, there is little to be concerned about. As for the air, even with an impossibly perfect thread seal and a 4:1 compression ratio of space, air pressure could not exceed 14.7 * 4 = 57 psi, hardly a casting cracker. The deal here is blow by not leaving the thread clearances filled with thread locker if a drop is not preceding the bolt to supply more to replace that being forced up past the thread spiral.

[@canonphoto]

Literally always bought and used blue, anything I don’t want vibrating loose.

[@victorpapaavp]

We always called Red Loctite, the "Eff the next mechanic" threadlocker.

[@draken68]

I use blue often because medium strength is fine. Now I know the difference between red and blue. But I use red everywhere before that never had an issue getting them apart, as opposed to 30 years of rust.