LED Lamp 3D Printing Kit - 001 - Bambu Labs | Assembly Video + 2 Bonus Designs

[@birddroppings32]

Thanks for going into detail of your process and changes with the Clear PETG!

[@BenMilford]

I can’t wait to see whatever that mouse thing is!

[@3DPrintStuff]

It's actually a very cool model and the support structure is very impressive. The designer definitely deserves some praise.

[@paulb36utube]

Can you make a video of how you did the filament changing/set up of the last light fixture. I’ve seen you video of how to do it on a top layer but really like the look when it’s printed on the plate itself.

[@KingNothing22]

you're missing the clock kit.

[@Hangs4Fun]

Thanks for the video, I'm trying these settings now. I remember seeing that CNC Kitchen video when it came out and rewatched it. One thing, can you point out where in the video, Stefan says to go to 270* C for the hotend? I only see mention of 230* C, like at 12 minutes and 25 seconds, he shows 2 different screens of settings and both show 230, not 270.

[@3DPrintStuff]

He doesn’t mention to go to 270 that was just me experimenting and going off of the original write up www.printables.com/model/15310-how-to-print-glass for better results I would follow CNC kitchens recommendations.

[@Hangs4Fun]

@@3DPrintStuff as info, this works on the flip side too. For my gridfinity bins, I wanted matte grey, not glossy grey. Plus, since I'm going to be producing 50-60 KG's of bases and bins for my shop, I wanted to go with a PETG filament that didn't break the bank, yet still printed good and such. I've been buying Elegoo's Rapid PETG at around $10 to $12.50 or so per KG. Then I worked through the settings that seem to let it print best (and also be somewhat matte finished). 240 nozzle, 80 bed (all layers) 10 mm^3/s volumetric 20% cooling, 50% for overhangs & bridges 1.5mm retraction at 40 mm/s Initial layer 50 mm/s (infill and wall) Bridge at 50 mm/s To get this to a more glossy finish, use all of the above plus bump up nozzle temp to 255-260. Pretty cool how that works. (above settings are verified on Prusa XL 5TH, Prusa MK4, and Bambu Labs A1 Mini)

[@sneaky_lari6377]

Where you got the stl for that? i bought a p1s and got the lamp too but cant find the stl for the top stuff

[@3DPrintStuff]

Links in the description

[@wpgcelica]

What are the screws for? I got the lamp and see no way to open it up to put the screws in the other way..

[@3DPrintStuff]

They’re for mounting the light to a wall or underneath a desk or cabinet. You don’t use them for these models.

[@wpgcelica]

@@3DPrintStuff I know, but how to do put the screws in the lamp? I see no way to open it up to put the screws in. I see the holes but that would go thru the lamp so clearly it goes from the inside. Any ideas?

[@wpgcelica]

@@3DPrintStuff ??

[@notsurt]

Just printed type B in white PLA and I think I prefer the look of the white over the clear, produces a smoother more diffuse light.

[@3DPrintStuff]

I have seen some pictures of these printed in white and they do look really nice.

[@timmyg37]

I printed mine in a pla bone colour and its a great colour for these lamps

[@dheerajmadambil1999]

Can i get the gcode of this lamp

[@3DPrintStuff]

makerworld.com/en/models/13717#profileId-13429