Lego Electronics haul! Parts for control panels and controlling switch tracks

[@sg-brick]

Thanks for sharing, I like your videos to see what you can do with the old stuff. And if I come across that stuff cheaply priced I maybe one day try/adapt one of your ideas 😉. Grtz, SG from Belgium 🇧🇪

[@GearsAndBricks]

6:47 “Hi. You rang?”

[@danmadden1080]

Thanks for the video.

[@dynamiCBricks]

I'd like to note something regarding the touch sensor from the cybermaster set: I might be reading too much into this, but I believe you are mistaken about its resistor. Afaik, the resistor is always closing the circut and is used to identify the sensor (red, yellow or white) on a passive input channel when it is unpressed. When pressed, the resistance drops on all types of touch sensors in a similar fashion and it is impossible to safely identify one pressed sensor among many connected to one Input channel. The grey touch sensors do have different resistance values when pressed (500 ohms [old] and 2k ohms [new]) and I am not sure about the cybermasters ones, but as most inaccuracies for the resistance value come from connector cables, it probably wouldn't be enough for an identification, even in a static setup. Why am I writing this much text about such a detail? That's because I ran into this exact same issue in one of my projects, when I tried reading multiple touch sensors on one channel by combining different types of touch sensors and exploiting their unique resistance values. In the end, I had to modify connector cables with highly valued resistors to see the differences in the values. And on this occasion, I'd like to give two more tips: 1. You can exploit the resistance of the cybermaster touch sensor by connecting it with a pole switch, giving you three input values from an on/off-AND-on/off logic. 2. If you "short circut" a pole switch with a diode, you get a passive input device with three possible resistance values. And now the awesome part: you can cascade it with yet another pole switch and another diode, giving you even more inputs. In one of my projects I managed to read two pole switches and their respective (connected) positions on a single passive input channel so far (a disconnected switch always results in logical undetermination). I'm pretty sure this can be pushed much further, but will most likely require some fancy electronical setup.

[@BatteryPoweredBricks]

Ah, I think you're right. I need to pull out all of my touch sensors and do some tests with them. I think I have all three cybermaster touch sensors, but I may be mistaken. Thanks for the info!

[@TheLoft587]

Great video, thank you, I am trying to do the same with the switches, and have a question if I may.. the cable out of the switch to the motor, are the two pins just connected to the GRD and 5V wires?

[@BatteryPoweredBricks]

I'm not sure what you mean, are you referring to the old 4.5v (or 12v) buttons or the 4.5v touch sensor button?

[@TheLoft587]

Sorry from the old 4.5v buttons to the 9v power functions motor

[@BatteryPoweredBricks]

basically you would have a 9v to PF wire, then cut one of the wires and put the button in series on the cut wire. I've been asked about this a good bit, I want to make a video explaining things better and add some more ideas. I have a few projects ahead in line though

[@TheLoft587]

Ok thank you, that doesn't make sense to me but will try what I think you are saying out . Ha ha ha... So the output from the switch ( the old switches with the reverse arrow logos on) are Ground and 9V you the take a power functions lead and connect these to the Ground and 9V ignoring the two middle wires on the power functions lead? I will try that, thank you ;-)

[@BatteryPoweredBricks]

On a 4 wire Power functions wire going to the motor you would ignore the outer pair (9V and GND) and use the inner pair (the control wires). It's a lot easier to do with custom 2 wire 9v to PF. The outer pair is a constant 9v (never changing polarity) to power IR receivers or SBricks

[@BrickTrains]

Wow cool stuuf

[@glowytheglowbug]

:D nicee