Leica Summicron or Summilux? PHOTOGRAPHY MAILBAG

In this photography mailbag, we're answering your questions on whether UV filters are necessary for Leica lenses. As a professional photographer, I'll share my thoughts on the debate between buying a Leica Summicron or Summilux lens and how to capture meaning in your photography. Don't miss this chance to ask a pro photographer your burning photography questions!
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TIMESTAMPS
0:00 Intro
0:50 Edit or Straight of the camera?
2:25 Leica SL2S Autofocus?
4:00 How to capture meaning?
5:23 UV Filter?
6:15 Summilux or Summicron?

[@gregspov]

Here's the problem with Leica... When I bought the new 50mm Summilux with close focus I said that I would sell my 50mm v5 Summicron. The new 50 lux is amazing, especially with the close focus option. It is also a great portrait lens. As Justin said, I can shoot all day at f/1.4. However, now that I have the lens I decided to keep the Summicron. Even though I don't use the Summicron as often, there is something retro and unique about the bokeh at f/2. And it makes for a great small travel lens when paired with the 28mm Elmarit. So that's the "problem" with Leica, all the lenses are so great and have such lovely character that I can't ever sell any!

[@dct124]

Leica lenses are like time pieces 😅 Keeping them isn't a bad investment to hedge against cash and inflation.

[@larryboothby3687]

I shoot a 50 lux on my M11-P and I love it. It is a good thing because it's the only glass I own!! I made the choice to buy the best glass I could afford on my budget and the used lux was it. At the time I had several options to purchase used Cron's and and a used M10R body. I certainly could have gotten more glass, or even saved some money, but I want that 60mpx sensor, and I wanted one really superb lens for my Leica. It also forces me to re-think what I am doing by limiting myself to the 50mm focal length. I've been printing my work (some of it big) and the sensor and the glass truly deliver. I firmly believe it was worth the trade-off. My biggest issue with the Lux is the razor thin depth of field when wide open. I'm 59 and wear bifocals. Hitting focus, especially with my eyes, is a bitch. The struggle is real! Of course I'm new to rangefinders too, so that is a load of gasoline on that fire! I know I can use live view, and I do when I'm on the tripod, but I want the range finder experience, so I struggle, and I take a lot of images of the same subject in an effort to ensure I hit focus. Taking portraits of my friends is always fun.... "Dude take the damn picture already!" I was so spoiled with auto focus. But I will keep plugging along and eventually get good. Love the videos. And as I've said before, my girl and I love the trips out with your wife! MORE!

[@dangilmore9724]

Good point about UV filters. Unless I am in a clean studio, it's filter time. Protecting my lens and coating outweighs any "degradation" of image and any degradation of image is so negligible that it doesn't matter and can't be detected if the filter is good and it's clean. I'd rather damage a UV filter than a front element. That, and I'd rather clean a UV filter than a front element for obvious reasons.

[@AskMOTT]

Totally agree Dan.

[@mikeabcable]

Thank you for your spending time on answering questions. Time management was kind of caught my attention. How do you manage your time ? I mean you may or may not have sufficient time from you arrange meeting or access. If you don't you just salvage as many as possible or arrange another meeting ?

[@johnwaine56]

Great idea not to use a lens cap!! I never used to put filters on my lenses until I saw my 2 yo grandson driving his toy car into the 'tunnel' of my lens hood on my camera left on a coffee table. I managed to grab the camera just in time!! But lesson learned that there are many ways to damage the front element of an expensive lens.

[@AskMOTT]

My old professor on day 1 told us to toss them and I never looked back :).

[@dct124]

The short way I solved the depth problem was to see the background first. I'll see my subject first technically, but I immediately look as far away as possible and work my way back to the foreground. I do this when I'm driving as a trainer.

[@paulbegg.photography]

I have always used a B+W clear nano on all my lenses. It just makes sense to protect the glass. Get some good brands you trust - it's a complete no-brainer to protect your investment. The other thing I use is a ventilated lens hood on my M and Q. Another no-brainer. It can act as a shock absorber and help protect the lens from bumps and knocks.

[@AskMOTT]

I like B+W filters as well, the lens hood as a shock absorber is a good one Paul, thanks for sharing and so true.

[@ChrisWhittenMusic]

All good advice. I wouldn't say I'm a great photographer but I hardly ever crop, but I adjust things like contrast, exposure etc to get the best out of the shot. Not trying to rescue an average image, just taking my best image and adding a little 'pop' as you say. I have a 1980's Summicron 35mm which I love. I can't afford a modern M lens, let alone a 1.4. I would say, own one or two lenses that are the best you can afford rather than a collection of just OK lenses.

[@jbthementor4905]

The white lines around your photos

[@jbthementor4905]

Justin your work is awesome. How do you get boarders on your photos ?

[@AskMOTT]

Thanks, what do you mean by borders on my photos? I don't typically use borders , but you can easily do that in Photoshop if you like.

[@filterfreephotography]

For my M11 kit, my 35mm is a Summicron (11673) and my 50mm is a Summarit (11680). I rarely go less than f/4 so I felt I did not need to invest in a higher end lens. Maybe down the road I will trasde-up, but for now I am very happy with the results I am getting. Ironically, I just bought a 50mm Summicron v3 for my M5. Now, my 1972 body has a 1972 lens (based on serial numbers). It should arrive next week. And I think my user name lays out my position on UV filters. LOL!

[@paullafleur6112]

Excellent tips. You mentioned never using lens caps because you don’t want to miss the moment. Which bring me to a question for the next Photography Mailbag (I don't use IG): What are your thoughts on shooting with two bodies in a street or documentary photography setting? Some people shoot with two bodies with two focal lengths (eg 28mm and 50mm, or 35mm and 85mm) to avoid missing the moment while changing lenses. This sounds like a good idea to me. The only drawbacks I can think of are budget and making it more difficult to move discreetly since with two bodies you look less like a casual shooter. Do you have any thoughts or experience with that? Thanks!

[@AskMOTT]

This is a fantastic question, let me add it to the next week's mailbag.

[@paullafleur6112]

@@AskMOTT Great! Looking forward to hearing your thoughts

[@dct124]

I do the same. Just a casual shooter these days. As I'm driving I like being able to just grab and shoot. A few years ago I witnessed a robbery at a McDonald's in broad daylight. I got the shot but I missed so much time taking off the lens cap and I couldn't change the quality setting to max fast enough. So the shot I got couldn't crop into the license plate. Since then, no lens cap, and max resolution.

[@paullafleur6112]

That makes sense. Thanks for sharing @@dct124

[@AskMOTT]

Ask your photography questions here.

[@zoltankaparthy9095]

Yes, always a UV. On the M8, M9 and M240 it is IR/UV because these cameras gets some weird colors without a UV/IR. Other cameras it is just UV. Same reasons as yours: protect the lens, and protect the lens regardless of cost. Why be out and ruin a lens and your day of you have no other lenses with you? Always a good filter, usually B&W.

[@spooky_lights]

If you were in the position to buy a Leica as a lifetime camera, would you get a M11 body or a used m10 with a Leica lens? I’m in the position to get one or the other and I’m currently leaning toward the M11P because of the future-proof aspects of it.

[@gregspov]

I haven't touched my M10-R since getting the M11-P, it's awesome. The M11 series big advantages are the sensor and the battery life. The sensor is unbelievable in its ability to recover shadows AND highlights.

[@Tom_YouTube_stole_my_handle]

No digital camera including a Leica is a 'lifetime camera'. You'll get a reliable ten years or so then parts will be unavailable and you're on borrowed time. Mechanical cameras were a different matter but even then the electronic components were always the achilles heel. My M6TTL is technically unrepairable as the meter circuit failed for the second time some years ago and parts are unavailable. In your position I'd say factor in either a Leica or Zeiss lens. Those will be lifetime purchases.

[@HeathHolden]

I’ve never made a good picture with a lens cap on 🤘🏼

[@AskMOTT]

I'm yet to do the same as well Heath :).

[@marknachmias423]

Ok We get it. You're a "professional photographer". You've said it a billion times.

[@rexgigout1472]

Any episode is likely to be the first Justin Mott presentation that some viewer has seen. Moreover, the advice of a working professional is MORE valuable than what some random yute-tube “influencer” can provide.

[@AskMOTT]

You said it better than I could Rex , thank you :).