Let's Build a Model Steam Engine! Cylinder Heads and Gland Nuts and Steam Chests, Oh My!

This episode on Blondihacks, I'm making cylinder heads, gland packing nuts, and a steam chest cover for my steam engine! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
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[@Clough42]

In my experience, the the only thing CA will glue securely and reliably, the first time, every time, is fingers. And eyelids.

[@MaximilianonMars]

Yeah, what the heck. Well that's what it was originally developed for in Vietnam, to glue wounds closed. Still used for that purpose today. I believe the technique is to hold the wound closed and glue over the top to stop the flap lifting away.

[@Clough42]

@@MaximilianonMars can't speak to the history, but it definitely works great for annoying fingertip cuts.

[@kindabluejazz]

@@MaximilianonMars Cyanoacrylate was patented in 1942 by BF Goodrich, part of materials research for the war. Yes, it was used for medical purposes in the Vietnam war, but that was almost 30 years later.

[@GoingtoHecq]

Fingers are the activator

[@taranson3057]

@@Clough42 I have used super glue without activator successfully for a few years for holding work piece to waste board on cnc router using painters tape method or for metal to sacrificial metal holding for machining. Also works great for cuts.

[@christianwentzell2777]

You are right about the super glue activator. Super glue aka cyanoacrylate is a polymer which means that it starts as monomers and reacts to form long chains, almost exactly like an actual chain. The "activator" sprays are actually something called a catalyst in chemistry terms and they speed up the reaction that is already happening just slowly. Catalysts can work a couple of different ways, the way that this one works is that it creates tons of different places for the chains to start from. This means that while it is a lot faster it is also weaker since there are many more shorter chains. Think about a pot of spaghetti noodles vs. a pot with penne noodles, which is easier to take a scoop from? Usually this decrease in strength is only marginal and not usually an issue but there might be compounding issues. I would suggest trying to use a smaller amount of the activator since a little bit goes a long way and possible trying a new tube/different flavor of glue to see if that would yield a better result. P.S. Hopefully that didn't come across as "mansplaining" but I have no idea what you (or any random person on the internet) do and do not know and felt it better to explain things as much as possible than risk confusing everyone. P.P.S. Just wanted to say that I love your channel, particularly the steam engine videos, and keep up the good work.

[@ardemus]

Yeah, that's a general principle for adhesives. You can formulate a strong glue to set faster but you give up some strength. I have never used a CA activator but I do see a lot of makers using it. They usually assemble the parts with just glue before spraying the outside edge of the joint to kick it off. (This doesn't apply when they *want* a weak joint or the glue doesn't reach the edges of the interface like you see with the blue tape trick for attaching templates and paired parts in wood working).

[@adityapartap]

Me too.

[@joell439]

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I have always wondered how the activator worked. 👍😎👍

[@railgap]

not to mention, the best you can hope for with CA adhesives is acrylic plastic, something which is brittle and only has useful strength in shear (thin films), not in bulk.

[@havokca]

“*ting*… perfect” 10/10 Flawless execution and delivery. Had I been drinking coffee, it would have come out my nose. A++ would watch again

[@henrya3530]

When machining cast iron it's a good idea to not let the dust go wandering. It gets EVERYWHERE and it's abrasive. Put a magnet in a plastic bag close to where you are machining the cast iron. When you have finished the machining operation you have a magnet in a bag covered in cast iron dust. Turn the bag inside out so the dust is on the inside and the manet is on the outside. Take away the magnet and dispose of the bag filled with dust in a responsible manner. I use this method on my lathe (the magnet goes out of the way below the chuck) and it helps a lot. Cleaning up afterwards is easier :-)

[@Blondihacks]

The theme in the comments this time is “your superglue fails because the parts get hot.” As I say in the video, superglue fixturing works fine without activator, so heat is clearly not a factor. Furthermore, these parts never get the slightest bit warm. These aren’t .125 passes in 4140. I’m making tiny cuts in soft metals. There is zero heat anywhere here. So let’s let that one go.

[@ollysworkshop]

Hi Quinn. It's worth checking the 'best before' date. I had some loctite and activator, and the glue went bad about a year before the activator.

[@justanotheridiotredneck]

Acetone the adhesion surfaces first? Clamp them until dry?

[@akukorhonen5182]

Similiar experiences with spray on activators. Try sprinkle a tappy taptap of regular baking soda on the seam, without any watersoluble dilutants.

[@swarf4083]

Quinn no offense but you shouldn’t get offensive with comments offering help. Someone with experience can pick up rather quickly on your skill level. You’ll learn a lot more from someone that’s already experienced your mistakes than shunting them away.

[@rushyahr7423]

How does one get an autographed blondiehacks coffee mug? Also, I think I like your lathe, and I think I want one, but I want to know what you think of your lathe in regards to hardened steel, case hardened steel, tool steel, mild steel, hard brass and soft brass?

[@MichaelScottPerkins]

I am no chemical engineer, but the way I have always thought of how CA glue "activator" works is, you kind of goop the CA glue all over the part you want to stick in place, adding more than you think you will need so that you will definitely get some squeeze out. Then you spray the activator all over the squeeze-out. This will make the beed of now rock hard CA glue act as a clamp so you can remove your finger or whatever you were using to hold the pice in place. You will have to wait for the glue to cure as directed, but you just don't have to hold it in place with anything. In the video, I think I saw you apply the glue, then spray it, and then try to quickly stick it where you wanted it. That definitely doesn't work. The activator catalyst created an instant hard candy shell on the glue, and when you stuck it down, the fun candy shell cracked enough to let some glue stick it down, but... as you've experienced... very little. BTW... did you release this video yesterday and then yank it down again super quickly?

[@avialexander]

She does it the right way, putting the CA glue on one part, the activator on the other. The only thing that could be better is to use less activator, it's really powerful stuff. What is likely going on is that the CA activator is very thin (low-viscosity), and all of the fissures and pores in the metal its sprayed on get filled by the activator. That means that when the CA glue on the other surface is pressed into place, it can't get into the pores due to the activator still in there. That means the bond isn't going to be nearly as strong on that surface. I'm not sure there's a good way around this problem other than to just not use it, activator really works best on porous materials that it can soak into.

[@wayneacaron8744]

@@avialexander Quinn could use baking soda, big pool around then dump some sodium bi carbinate on it. makes a ROCK hard mass. and it burns off very fast. poppy

[@antonymiller213]

@@avialexander Yeah I agree with this one. I do tons of modeling in plastic, pewter, and resin using CA glue, and I have found that the activator produces a significantly weaker glue join than you get without it. Waiting for that joint to dry can be a bummer, but it's worth every minute you don't spend fixing your failed joint.

[@kevinvermeer9011]

@@avialexander No, the right way isn't necessarily CA on one part and activator on the other. That might work on porous stuff like wood where the material strength, not the bond, is the limiting factor, but for nonporous stuff just glue it together and hit the bead of glue on the outside with activator. You don't really want activator between the glue and the surface.

[@ToBeeOrNotToBeHoney]

@@kevinvermeer9011 Exactly, I use it for woodworking with acidic woods (which cause the SG the not activate at all. Essentially it is a catalyst, and using it the way she did will cause it to harden before bonding.

[@David-sp7gc]

I lightly rough up the surface with scotchbright to get a better bond. The activator doesn’t weaken the bond. Moisture helps the glue to cure a little faster. I breath on the dry surface to speed up the bond

[@wi11y1960]

I lol'd on the use of the drum sander on the dremel "its ok, I can use the backside" Bwahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@douglascampbell9809]

@bullsballs I actually worked with someone who said that and was serious. They were not the sharpest tool in the drawer.

[@wi11y1960]

@@douglascampbell9809 I have a neighbor whom also fits that mental description. She has a need for a wood splitter. She has one that is 3 hp that I offered her to get running for free. Alas she bought a new one becuase the 3hp was harder to pull on the pull cord than the 5hp.

[@TommyJobson]

I agree the CA activator was probably your weak link in the superglue chain. One thing you could try is to put grooves in the super glue chucks being used, this gives more surface area for adhesion. Click spring does it to very good effect. Great video as always.

[@Farseer22]

The activator makes the CA glue harder and more brittle. You're on the right track I think with the Activator being the problem.

[@thegoose7777]

Great videos. Machinist tip: one way to rough dial the face of a part or to leave a space off of the chuck face without using parallels, when loading onto a 3 or 4 jaw chuck is to use the face of the tailstock (without a live center of course).

[@GunFunZS]

Most conventionally powered boats have a gland for where the prop shaft goes through the hull. There's a special grade of square cross-section rope which is impregnated with some kind of Teflon e waxy stuff. Traditionally you locate them in somewhere that doesn't leave your room to swing the wrench. Every boat leaks it's only a question of how fast. The gland is always one of the leak points.

[@Gizmo2024]

Yes, CA activator does reduce the strength. I build remote control airplanes and we avoid activator in any high stress areas.

[@leerogers6423]

The satisfaction gained from 2 passes of a flycutter that you made yourself = 100% Stand back look at the finish and decide that you deserve a single malt this evening. Flycutter finish on cast iron beats brass hands down for me If your watching these videos and havn't taken the plunge yet do it , you will regret not one of the snafu's along the way. Fun video and another step on the learning curve for me, this time about about CA.

[@cspivey]

I've been watching your videos and I'm a machinist. When using parallels I use a piece of thin spring steel with a bend in the middle to hold against the parallels from in between them this let's you open and close the vice and the parallels stay with the jaws. This works great especially with thin parallels.

[@billmckillip1561]

An old-timey way to fixture small brass and bronze parts is soft (plumbers') solder. It is quick, easy to do and very strong.

[@Rustinox]

It takes lots of patience to make those little parts. Well done.

[@jerrycoleman2610]

Quinn, Awesome video, great content, really enjoyed watching, thanks for sharing your video.!.!.!.

[@geneard639]

I've been using CA since the 80's. Putting CA on one side, and activator on the other side it won't cure properly. Put glue on one side, press it into the other surface to be bonded, then spray activator on the edge, then wait a few moments. (just not with bare fingers touching it or holding it together unless you want to loose some skin). Also, check to see how old your CA and activator is, humidity can weaken both.

[@ratdude747]

I've read that activators do cause weaker joints. As does using excess humidity to speed up curing. It's like crystallization: quality and time are usually a tradeoff.

[@eliduttman315]

The activator speeds up polymerization start, but full bond strength (whatever it is) takes time to develop. It seems Aesop was right again. "Slow and steady wins the race."

[@garymucher9590]

Some times those smaller parts are harder to machine to tight tolerances then large parts. But you did it with ease. Nice ideas and great work... Thumbs Up!

[@mikeendersbe4218]

I’ve never used it before but you might consider trying dopping wax to hold small parts. It’s used for holding gemstones for grinding and polishing. Lots of forces and vibration also very smooth surfaces.

[@okiwatashi2349]

Is building locomotives and other steam powered engines one of these things I need to warn my daughter about. I had a grown interest in machining, I now actively look for steam engine building videos, I think I have a problem, I bought a mill, I’m trying to decide on a lathe, I make violins!!!! It’s your fault Quinn! I hope you’re pleased with yourself.

[@redneckswitwheels]

Buy a good quality lathe. And not a junk hobby one.... there is a major difference. And u can find a good used one at a soild price. But remember that you get what you pay for

[@fredrosse]

Attaching a fixture piece with Super Glue is one method, however I have found soft soldering brass to a brass fixture piece works very well.

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

Yep !Its how we did it before CA was invented ! 😎👍☘️🍺

[@w3vjp568]

In my experience using CA glue for woodworking and model building, I’ve never had much luck using CA accelerator before the parts are together; this generally seems to create a much weaker bond. The accelerator itself doesn’t really provide any adhesion, it just sets the CA rapidly (almost instantly, in fact.)

[@jasonhanson6563]

We use gland packing nuts on large check valves and knife gate valves in the water industry. Not necessary information but looking for an excuse to say I love the show.

[@billzeiler5811]

Your videos inspired me to try machining a PM Research No.5 engine which I just finished today. I think it took about 40 hrs. There were several parts that required considerable ingenuity. I used your idea for fixturing the crankshaft machining and it turned out perfectly. I have a HF 7” x 12” lathe and A Little Machine Shop mill with 3 axis DRO along with a small array of tools that I have from my earlier career. You do an exceptional job in explaining everything you do and in providing interesting content. Keep up the good work.

[@philipeverall6]

“...but that’s ok, I can still use the other side” Me: *snortles into coffee* 4yo: “are you ok daddy?” Me: “no buddy, I’m not”

[@Reach41]

Ever notice that when you get a flat tire, it's only flat on the bottom? Most of it is still ok, which opens opportunities when you don't have a spare.

[@endall6783]

@@Reach41 No matter what the flat side always stays on the bottom no matter how fast or slow you drive. We all have seen police chase KZbin vids they don't end well. Opportunities are to hitch hike with a killer or better to have a phone that is fully charged. Well that hard to choose from can I get some help with this one. Oh what to do??

[@DieCastoms]

Quinn, try using the activator AFTER you press the two parts together, so that the adhesive has a chance to touch both clean pieces. The activator will still accelerate the process "from the outside" though obviously not as much as spraying the activator on one surface and the adhesive on the other.

[@lynnbryant9866]

Superglue definitely has a shelf life. But buying another container doesn't necessarily guarantee you're getting fresher glue. It's probably not an accident there is no manufacturing date or "use by" date on superglue. :)

[@alxelectronics9615]

This steam engine video series is the most well-done collection of "neat machinist tricks" I have yet to find. Thank you!

[@johnbuffinton7324]

I hope you post more videos of this project, we the Blondihacks viewers/fans don't care what that other egotistical guy wants to say/do. I enjoy watching your videos and your process. Please continue the videos!! We support you!!

[@jimc4731]

Coming from an old school, production background, I rely on collets arbors and soft jaws for machining parts similar to yours. Also special washers, spacers and bushings made for various work locating. Don't forget the simple split bushing. All of these are saved over time and used over and over. Keep up the good work, JIM

[@jeffvoight6586]

Don't spray the activator on the superglue. Spray it on the fixture plate. That way it doesn't activate until the part is touching the fixture.

[@pedalcarguy]

Hello! I am happy to let you know that I am now your patron. I really admire the way you are not afraid to show your mistakes. It shows rare strength of character. A creative process is often nothing but a series of mistakes, trial and error, and finally success. I tip my hat to you. Stay safe and keep on chooching!

[@Blondihacks]

Thank you very much for the support! 😀

[@leebarnhart831]

OK, I like that super glue trick for small parts! I spent most of my life machining construction equipment so the thought of super gluing never presented itself. Haven’t worked on too many parts that weighed less than 1000 pounds. I would drop and lose half the stuff you work on in the chip pan. What you do is much harder than what i did. We just tack welded up fixtures and jigs when needed. Your a good out of the box thinker and that’s a great asset in machine work. “OK, I’ll need a flatbed truck, 50ft of garden hose, 4 toggle clamps and a gunny sack to machine this.”

[@bostedtap8399]

Excellent work, very intricate work Quinn, certainly not a case for indexable inserts, ref high machining forces. Great vlog thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK. John

[@gagasmancave8859]

Looking good Quin be glad to see first turning

[@jerrywallis599]

CA activator is to be used after part is in place. I also use a three different CAs. Thin, medium and thick. The thick works the best but takes longer to set I also put groves in the holder.

[@flyingshards595]

I always learn something useful from your videos! For gluing, I use ca glue and spray the activator on the edges of the joint after bringing the parts together. Helps hold the pieces together immediately, but doesn't seem to compromise the joint as much, in my experience. Thanks so much for your time making and sharing your videos with us!

[@toolbox-gua]

Enjoying evry bit of it.

[@thebigdustin]

How did I miss this? I was wishing a Blondihacks video would come out and now here it is

[@flyboyzf4u1c]

Arm chair machinist here but I've noticed when clickspring uses super glue fixtures he has grooves in the fixture. Maybe that would help? Maybe allow more air in there to cure the glue?

[@WeekendWrenchTurner]

Looking good! Can't wait to see this completed!!!

[@jafo4775]

I suspect you're correct with the "activator" theory. I've had problems with other materials when pushing the set up time. Love your work and your smile. Thanks.

[@joell439]

Blondihacks, Thanks for the ride 👍👍😎👍👍

[@chip3man]

Nice cutting stuff

[@ianbuilds7712]

When you said you could still use the other side of the dremel tool it actually blew my mind...

[@lotharerkens8154]

Did you return the time travel lathe handle back to ToT? I know he needs it quite often...

[@ardemus]

No, but when she's done she'll return it before she took it, so it doesn't really matter. :)

[@richardmeyer418]

So does Engineer BrunS, who has a time machine for aging metal ... :)

[@vinshanestrickland4179]

Try the CA GLUE THAT U CAN GET AT STEW MAC A LUTHERAN SHOP I USE IT RELIGIOUSLY WITH THE ACTIVATOR ON MY PARTS I HAD A SUPER GLUE BRAND PROBLEM SIMILAR TO YOURS

[@greglialios392]

I don’t think you completed the time travel on that casting correctly. It is still glowing with Cherenkov radiation!

[@VintageTechFan]

@@ardemus And then she doesn't need to return it anymore because he had two when she took it, but that means he will only have one and ...

[@billzeiler5811]

Also, a 3” screwless toolmaker’s vise is a real asset for small part projects like these. I have two of them and occasionally I use one inside the other for angled holding and side by side for long parts.

[@Hunter_S-fr4ns]

Hey just for the record we use the activator at work and what it does is it makes it skin off and go really hard and crispy ,not allowing the glue to bite in while cures… all the best Luke from the uk

[@user-pk2fg8im4u]

I really enjoy your comments as you go along. I even notice you use subtle humor occasionally. 🙄 Blessings. 😊

[@jeffanderson1653]

You did much better than I did. I threw the cylinder head across the room, have to order another one. Next time I am going to drill the holes in the head cap first then transfer punch locations.

[@user-mw5tl3ks9b]

It's a good idea to have a bit of spare stock to hand centred and faced on the opposite side for putting between your live centre and part when using the tailstock to apply pressure.

[@geoffreyarchibald2680]

On a thick layer of CA the activators can quickly set the skin of the adhesive and leave the bulk of the material uncured. It's also good to follow up an acetone wipe with 70% IPA. Acetone and 99% IPA can flash off too fast and leave a residue of what you were trying to remove. 70% IPA allows the mechanical wiping action of the cloth to carry away the gunk.

[@kahlid-ataya]

1:14 a good cup of coffee is always helpful

[@clifffiftytwo]

Cannot wait to see how you do the cylinder!

[@wbradburn8871]

Exactly correct RE: the effect of accelerator on cure of CA.

[@combin8or]

18 days in 18 minutes! Thanks, Quinn!

[@ponkkaa]

I have used the CA glue activator in wood turning. it only seems to make the glue more brittle.

[@tnekkc]

Back on chattering. Moly Dee cutting fluid makes faster feeds and speeds possible compared to sulfurized cutting oils or tap magic. This may be subtle on 6-48 tapping, but obvious on 1/2-13 tapping or using a cut off (parting) tool in the lathe.

[@admiralthire8805]

this is my first new post since i subscribed, you've become my new favorite, perfect for my wannabe machinist self to understand more complicated things.

[@seanjoseph8637]

Love the "matter-of-fact" commentary.

[@markmiller6817]

OK , I see what you are doing there . Love the moving colors .

[@stevoreno45]

I love that you show booboos! Superglue will make you cry sometimes because it can't get too warm, and don't even think about using oil

[@rpavlik1]

Man, the fancy effect on the time traveling cylinder at first had me thinking my phone or brain were having problems... Thanks for being consistent so I could figure it out 😁. Great video as always, this is a pretty cool project.

[@cda32]

These cliff hangers are killing me. Cant wait for the next video!

[@cristianchisbora8289]

Never used any CA activator. If i need a quick bond, i just breathe on one of the parts then quicly bring it in contact with the other part coated with CA glue. After all, water activates CA polymerisation.

[@PorchPotatoMike]

I don’t think you completed the time travel on that casting correctly. It is still glowing with Cherenkov radiation!

[@flo-llama]

My husband is a product Safety engineer. He uses CA to attach thermocouples to devices and uses accelerator most of the time. He noticed the accelerator makes CA brittle. When he uses accelerator, he can press a stylus into the glue blob to crack it so he can remove the thermocouple. He said that when he hasn't used accelerator that the CA isn't brittle and won't crack and sometimes is permanently sticks the TC to the part.

[@joshward7896]

Nice work! when drilling CI Copper alloys and spring steel, I flatten the cutting edges of my drill to zero rake angle. Just a tiny flat.....04" or so. My DRO does 6 holes evenly when I input 6 holes.....?????? Enjoyable Video!

[@elsdp-4560]

THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice.

[@tomt9543]

Never thought super glue would produce so many passionate responses! Must be a sign of the times! Could this be the basis of another round of stimulus payments? Naw! It’ll never stick!

[@Blondihacks]

People have a lot of sticky opinions, it turns out.

[@pickwizard-aka-Stevie]

Another great video Quinn, learning new techniques every video x

[@Raytenecks]

For the intro, I was like, "She didn't do the hands!" ... Then I noticed you were holding something. And yup, sure enough, that was it. :D

[@gl8512]

I use the CA activator on wood projects. Without activator the CA can spread out, almost capillary like. With activator it immediately “freezes “ the CA and doesn’t allow it to spread to max surface area. Use CA with and without activator on two precision flat parts. check on surface plate and you will likely see with activator the parts did not mate flat.

[@capnthepeafarmer]

Try putting some very light grooves in your super glue arbor. Like small concentric or cross-hatch grooving to increase your surface area. It might be a fun shop test, make a few different rough surfaces and use some weights to see which one holds more strength. It'll be a good experience too and give you some practical knowledge. "It's not what we know that gets us into trouble, it's what we know for sure, that just ain't so."

[@EricDykstra]

I came here to say the same thing. I remember Clickspring recommending doing it that way.

[@jonsoons]

Cool trivia: In the UK the assembly that the piston rod slides through is called a "stuffing box".

[@tjh44961]

In the colonies, we also use that term, but generally only to refer to the same type of gland on a boat where the propeller shaft goes through the hull.

[@jrgenfriborg3508]

You can silversoder the hole, and then make it agin.

[@RetroSteamTech]

Hi Quinn. Really enjoying your series of videos on building a model steam engine. You really do need to get yourself a collet chuck for your lathe though. It will make your life a lot easier when turning small parts. Cheers, Alan.

[@assessor1276]

Very nice work BH!

[@PeterWMeek]

You might rub the outside face of that steam chest cover on a stone or some abrasive paper to get some flats on those bosses with absolute minimum material removal. Nice series.

[@timsering9964]

..that plus or minus y trick to get the hole centered, messes.up your .25 distance from center, because now you are on the hypotenuse of the triangle.....

[@EllaBananas]

Just saw a video on adam savages tested where he mentions that the activators can make the glue a bit gummy and not as strong if too much is used.

[@JoshuaTClark81]

I am no machinist but with super glue arbors I have seen in the past, they all had concentric groves machined into them. I suppose that is done for more surface area for the adhesive to hold to.

[@thestonethatthebuilderrefu5231]

I've had the same experience with using an activator or actually baking soda. Yes it makes the glue get hard quicker but it's nowhere near as strong

[@rossfudd256]

Love the opening, "PERFECT" ;-)

[@markwarner5554]

This was great. Thanks Quinn.

[@steved8038]

As per usual very entertaining and informative , I doubt I will ever visit your part of the world but if I do you deserve coffee and cake ! 😀

[@heateslier]

hi Blondi, the so called "activator" is actually an *accelerator* so if you spray it on the surface you intent to glue a part on, the glue hardens at places before it comes fully in contact with the surface and hence you get bad adhesion but if you spray a little on the sides after you glue the parts together it will shorten the time for the glue to fully set. btw you can make your own "activator/accelerator" pretty easily, just stir some baking soda in a alcohol and distilled water solution.

[@markhansford178]

Hi Quinn, love the videos, thank you for sharing them. I had the same problem with Loctite on bronze before, I think it is the bronze that the superglue or Loctite can't bond with, ended up using solder in the end, that worked 😊

[@staxter6]

As I was typing, go easy on the activator...you said it. Oh my!

[@FireguyNtx]

My experience with UV activated CA glue seems to be this: If you cant see the glue, it doe's not hold well, only when most of the glue is exposed do I achieve a good bond. Also I went on Amazon and got a way bigger UV lamp. I thought it was going to be the super glue save all. Regular CA glue seems to be the best for mating close parts. The UV type can span gaps better. But then I use powered glass to reinforced permanent parts, just mix in about 30%. Works for me anyway.

[@danmartinrc]

FYI, not all CA accelerators are the same. You generally should stick to the same brand as your CA glue to make sure you get the right formulation.

[@nathanfulton]

Are the sparkles on that time-traveling cylinder a Braid reference? If so, I got that reference!

[@markh2005]

I have a non-cat relayed questions for once! 1. Why do you go to all the trouble of centering in on the 4 jaw chuck when a lot of your parts could be put in a self-centering 3 jaw chuck? 2. Are you going to machine the tops of the covers that you machined, just for looks? If so can you use the shell cutter? Its my favourite. 3. Hows Sprocket? Has she defeated your attempt to keep her out of the feeder yet? Oops, that was a car question, sorry! 😄

[@dass1333]

I almost thought the time traveling cylinder casting was going to start talking.

[@pacman10182]

you might look into a set of brass drills, red metals can be very grabby with normal drills

[@qcnck2776]

Agree the CA accelerators reduce strength of the joint

[@christoengelbrecht4294]

It does not really reduce the strength but it immediately cure the CA where the accelerator hits and leave the rest to cure over time. Accelerator works wonders on wood because it is porous. The finish on the parts was just to smooth to let the CA cure properly. Do not use on metal as was shown with the last part.

[@randynovick7972]

Fantastic! Fun to watch as always.